Is it possible to replace front strut mount without taking off the strut?
- Remove the cover
- Remove the nut
- Remove upper mount retaining nuts and upper mount.
- Install new in reverse order
Is it possible to replace front strut mount without taking off the strut?
hi I’m trying to see what would be causing this to happen. I start it up, it runs at correct idle till it warms up and then it wants to idle down to the point it wants to stall. I have my own theories but I need a second opinion. Thank you.
If there are no check engine light codes I would think cleaning the throttle body and putting in a new air filter would fix you right up. Clean the throat and edges of the butterfly in the throttle body. Use starting fluid and spray it on a rag and wipe. DO NOT spray into throttle body.
All of my doors, locks and drivers side mirror works on my Pontiac Bonneville EXCEPT my passenger side. The window, door lock and the mirror won’t work. We have checked the fuses and checked the wires with a voltage tester. What’s wrong?
Sounds like you have some more checking to do with the volt-meter. If everything works from the drivers side door switches but no the passenger side. The passenger side switch assembly is faulty or unplugged. If neither side switches work, then the wiring is faulty. In most cases the wiring harness becomes damaged at the door jam. This is common. Using a multi-meter you can check for voltage going to the passenger side switch and then leaving the switch to determine where the issue is.
It is idling at 4 grand. I bought and put on a new TPS and MAF sensor because the code said they were bad. They still read bad the car still idles high and when I unplug the TPS it stops idling high and runs great. DO YOU KNOW OF THIS ISSUE?
Generally a high idle is caused by a vacuum leak. However unplugging the TPS should not change it if it was a vacuum leak. I have read of hundreds of occasions where the 2001 Pontiac Aztek with a high idle was fixed simply by replacing the TPS Sensor. I have also read of several instances where the throttle position sensor connector was at fault.
Those stated: “Disconnected the throttle position sensor connector, visually inspected the connector and terminals and found the connector was melted and also damaged the throttle position sensor.”
I keep having a intake pushrod close to the number 5 cylinder and and intake pushrod on the back side that keep bending. The 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 sat for a while. Instead of cleaning the tank I used gas treatment. I am also not sure if i am sitting the lifters correctly. Please help. Thank you
This is a common occurrence when the pushrods are not marked when removed. The intake and exhaust push rods are not the same length in this engine. To avoid this in the future, poke holes in a piece of cardboard and mark the front so they are kept in the same order they are removed. For now you can just measure them.
Place the valve train parts in a rack in order to ensure that they are installed in the same location from which they were removed. Intake pushrods measure 144.18 mm (5.68 in) long. Exhaust pushrods measure 152.51 mm (6.0 in) long.
I am on a fixed income and can’t afford a shop, my headlight is burned out. I can remove the headlamp but cannot get the bulb out.
Use a pair of pliers, twist and pull out. No risk of damaging the bulb as it is already blown.
Defroster must be running full blast in order to have any heat or a little defrost in van. Turn it on “heat” only and Windows are frosted over within 5 miles of highway driving.
First thing to check would be the coolant level. If the cooling system is low it makes it difficult to heat. This is the most common reason for your situation. If the coolant level is full look for a stuck thermostat.
My Car says engine hot, AC off but the temp gauge is normal. does the computer use a different sensor for engine temp? If its the same sensor what would cause this?
Two separate sensors. One for the gauge and one for the engine computer.
I use a hand held infra-red temperature gun when looking for an accurate reading.
Yesterday, the low beams on my 2001 Pontiac Grand Am stopped working. They will not engage manually or automatically. I checked the fuses, they were fine. I swapped the two automatic light control relays with each other to see if it would have any effect, and when I put them back, my driver side high beam went out also. Now both my low beams and the driver high beam doesn’t come on. I have no idea what could cause this.
It sounds like you are on the right track. You swapped out the relays to see if it made any kind of change and it did. Sticking relays can cause the lights to stay on or off. So I would replace both relays since they are the same age. I also think one or both headlight bulbs have failed. One low beam may have been out for a while. Replace both bulbs and relays and should work properly. Worse case would be a wiring or connection problem.
The headlamps may be turned on two different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position, for normal operation. Second, with the headlamp switch placed in the OFF position, for automatic lamp control (ALC). During ALC, the headlamps will be in day time running lamp (DRL) operation in daylight conditions, or low beam operation in low light conditions. The LH HDLPand RH HDLP fuses, supply battery positive voltage from the underhood junction block to the left and right headlamps. The circuit continues through both low and high beam lamps, then back to the underhood junction block. The low beam and high beam circuits continue to the headlamp switch. The low beam and high beam circuits also provide the body control module (BCM) with both low and high beam inputs. The headlamp switch includes the dimmer switch and the flash-to-pass switch. When the headlamp switch is placed in the HEADLAMP position a path to ground is provided. Ground is provided at G201. Depending on the position of the high/low beam switch, either the low or high beam circuit will now have power and ground.
The LH HDLP fuse in the underhood junction block, supplies battery positive voltage to the automatic lamp control (ALC) headlamp relay coil circuit. The ALC relay switch circuit is connected to the low beam circuit at the headlamp switch. When the headlamp switch is placed in the OFF position, the BCM will automatically turn on the low beams in low light conditions. The BCM energizes the ALC relay, closing the switch contacts and grounding the low beam circuit. Ground is provided at G201. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned on or flashed with the dimmer switch handle. The flash-to-pass feature is accomplished by pulling the dimmer switch handle toward the driver. The headlights may be switched to high beam with the opposite movement of the dimmer switch lever. When the headlamp dimmer switch handle is pulled toward the driver, the flash-to-pass switch closes grounding the high beam circuit. Ground is provided at G201. Both high beams will remain on until the driver releases the switch handle.
If the driver places the headlight switch in the HEADLAMP position , the headlights will remain on until turned off or the battery runs dead.
The ambient light sensor is a light sensitive transistor that varies its voltage signal to the body control module (BCM) in response to changes to the outside (ambient) light level. When the BCM receives this signal it will either turn on the daytime running lights (DRL) or the headlights. Any function or condition that turns on the headlights will cancel the daytime running lamps operation. With the headlight switch in the OFF position, the headlights will either be turned ON or OFF, after an approximate 30 second delay depending on whether daylight or low light conditions are sensed. The HTR A/C IGN fuse in the underhood junction block supplies ignition positive voltage to the daytime running lamp (DRL) relay coil circuit. The DRL relay switch contacts are connected to the low beam circuit. When the headlamp switch is placed in the OFF position, the BCM will either turn on or off the daytime running lamps, depending on whether daylight or low light conditions are sensed. The BCM energizes the DRL relay, closing the switch contacts and grounding the low beam circuit. Ground is provided at G201. The DRL illuminate the low beam headlights at a reduced intensity. The DRL will operate when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the gear selector is not in the PARK position and the parking brake is released. When these conditions have been met and the ambient light sensor indicates daytime conditions, the DRL will illuminate.
DRL operation in Manual Transmission equipped vehicles will occur when the ignition switch is in the ON position, and the parking brake is released.
Description of Problem: my car has been overheating and leaking anti-freeze. I was told it was the thermostat, I replaced it. It did not work. So then I was told it was the coolant jug. I replaced that and now the antifreeze is spraying out from the top. Do you know what that could be? please email me at XXXXXXXXX@XXXXX.XXX
Hard to say what it is without looking to see where the leaking anti-freeze is spraying from. I would suspect a hose or water pump. Could also be the coolant bypass valve. You can look at it and if you are not sure what you are looking at, post a picture.