Jan 132013
 

battery went dead, took to parts house verified it was bad. Installed new battery, car started no problem but I did not drive it. Next day went to start car, it had a little trouble starting but did and ran smooth but in neutral would not throttle above 2k. drove car down road and would not accelerate much. Parked it, came back next day car almost didn’t start (not due to low or poor battery either) when got started ran rough and would not bring rpm’s above 1k. Put car in drive and no matter if peddle is on floor or not car will not throttle up. Now that it’s running bad the check engine and wrench light or displayed on console??? what the heck happened, car was tuned up (new plugs, fuel filter and belt less than a thousand miles before problem???

  7 Responses to “2006 Ford Five-hundred”

  1. Sounds like the vehicle may be stuck in limp mode.

    Here is what I would try first.

    Disconnect Battery. Turn ignition key to the “ON” position, Re-connect Battery and then move key forward to the “START” position.

    This of course if after you have made sure the battery is and “GOOD” new battery and is fully charged. Any less then 12.2 volts and the computer will not respond correctly.

  2. Did this, car started right up, engine ran smooth. Check engine light gone but wrench light remained. Let run 5 minutes (it is 40 degrees) pressed gas pedal engine gained maybe 200rpms. Killed engine, re-started engine took twice as many turn-overs to start, car runs rough will not rev. Now I only disconnected positive cable assumed it wouldn’t matter?

  3. Car started right up. Check engine light gone, wrench remained. Let car warm up (5 minutes / 40 degrees) car would only gain 200rpms pressing pedal. Killed engine, restarted car took twice as many turn-overs to start. Car runs Rough and still will not rev. Check engine light retuned? I only removed positive terminal, assumed it wouldnt matter????

  4. This might sound a little odd, but I would like you to double check your air filter box to make sure it is fastened correctly and the hoses and clamps are not loose.
    If this all looks OK, your next step will be to extract the check engine light codes. Your local auto parts store would most likely do this for you for free, Autozone will if you have one of those near by.

  5. I’ll check the air-filter housing and all the lines. When the battery is disconnected /reconnected and then started the car runs smooth at first. I inspected under the hood and did not hear any vac leaks. I cannot get the codes checked, the car want trottle up above idle thus making it unsafe to put out in traffic. I agree with your first thoughts, that it has to have something to do with the battery going dead and then trying to start. The car was drove 4 days prior to it not starting and it drove as good as the day it was purchased. Could a fuse being blown somehow on the attemp to start with dead battery or at reconnection of new battery cause this problem? My next step would have to be having the car hauled to a shop. I’m having trouble thinking something major happened while it was just sitting there. Your thought……

  6. I wouldn’t think anything Major has happened either. I do think it might be possible that the air box or hose may have been moved inadvertently when replacing the battery though. Hopefully when you check you will find it to be just that. I do not think a blown fuse would cause the issue.

  7. Good morning i do for a major tune up and i wanted to know will the mechanic be able to change spark plugs with removeing the engine manifold

 Leave a Reply