May 132019

1994 Ford F150 XLT

Here is the set up, I was driving my truck (f150, 5.0L, 1995) and stopped at a stop light. my radio was not powered on so i decided to turn off my truck and then turn it back on to see if that would power the radio. when i tried to turn the ignition past on to turn the engine over, I heard a loud click like sound and then all power quit. I was able to get the truck back to work as i was only a 100 yards away. Then checked the battery with a meter and there is 12 volts. I had just recently replaced the starter. I looked at the starter and there were no wiring issues there. Next, I looked at all my fuses under the hood and dash, nothing blown, I can’t tell with the relays. My lights do not light up with the key on or off, they usually do. when i turn the key to on there are no indicator lights on the dash.

With this info in mind, any ideas on where to start with diagnosing?
I was thinking it is my ignition but i don’t know how to check that.
I read in another forum that if the fuseable link to the starter is blown it will cut all power. where is this located?
Does this truck have a main fuse?

please forgive any misspelled words, my pc says they are good but i never know lol.

First guess would be poor connections at the battery. Look at the battery cables and wires that connect directly to the battery. The smaller wires are the ones that may have an inline fuse or fusible link.  Also check the connections at the starter solenoid since you just worked on it.


May 132019

Pontiac Firebird

The engine is over heating and the mechanics don’t know why. New heads, water pump, thermostat and sensors, etc. Over heats almost immediately. We are all stumped and need help. Thank you. 305 engine 5.0L.

Couple of possible things to look at.

  • Thermostat in backwards
  • Using just water instead of 50/50 mix
  • Low on coolant and or air pocket
  • No fan or fan shroud missing
  • Blocked of clogged radiator
  • Incorrect head gasket causing coolant passages to be blocked
  • Ignition timing
  • Faulty gauge reading (use an external infrared temperature gun)

May 072019

Chevy Astro

I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there an easy way to do this on my Astro van ?

Sure. Pay someone else to do it would be the easiest way. There are some that will cut a hole in the floor, but I do not recommend it.

To do it yourself you will need to drop the gas tank. This will allow access to the fuel pump module located in the top of the gas tank.

Fuel Pump Replacement

Astro & Safari

  1. Release fuel system pressure.
  2. Empty fuel tank into a suitable safety container, then support tank with suitable lowering equipment.
  3. Disconnect fuel tank attaching straps.
  4. Lower tank slightly, then disconnect all electrical connectors, ground strap and hoses from fuel tank.
  5. Lower fuel tank from vehicle.
  6. Remove sender unit and pump assembly by turning lock ring counterclockwise using cam lock removal tool No. J-36608 and J-24187, or equivalent.
  7. Lift sender/pump unit from tank, then remove pump from sending unit, using caution not to damage the rubber insulator or the strainer.
  8. Reverse procedure to install.

Fuel Pump Replacement Labor Hours

  Model Year Skill Code Factory Time LABOR Time  
FUEL PUMP, R&R          
 Astro, Safari,          
  In Tank …………………………. 1996-00   1.5 2.1  
Does Not Include: Drain & Refill Fuel Tank.
May 052019

Saturn Ion

I have a 04 Saturn Ion, manual transmission, 2.2 ecotec engine. I have a no start, no crank issue. At first it was only occasionally that it wouldn’t crank, but lately it has become more frequent. When turning the key there is no sounds/clicks, just nothing.

Being a manual I am able to start the car with the push start method and after starting it runs fine. But after tuning it off it won’t crank again.

I have checked that battery and it’s only a year old and fine. I have also replaced the ignition switch and reset the pass lock.

What else could be causing this issue?

Faulty Starter would be the most common cause of this issue.

The video shows another cause that may be the root of the problem. Turns out there is a ground wire that is inside the starter wiring harness that tends to become brittle and break.

May 032019

1998 Chrysler Sebring

I was told I have a blown head gasket but these guys just seemed so unprofessional and would not answer any of my questions. So I’m wondering can it be a blown head gasket if there is no coolant leaks no misfires no white smoke. The only symptom my car has is it overheats when the car warms up when I stop the coolant in the overflow tank is boiling or bubbling. When they ran tests the said there was combustible gases in my coolant. Thank you.

If you are uncomfortable with the mechanic shop you took your car to, exercise your right to take it somewhere else. A compression test is a good place to start when diagnosing a blown head gasket.

A pressure gauge can be installed to the cooling system to detect excessive pressure. Most cooling systems pressure is under 20 psi. When engine cylinder compression enters the cooling system the pressure gauge would spike and exceed this amount. An engines compression in each cylinder can be 100 psi or more.

Boiling Coolant

Boiling coolant usually indicates a poor mixture. The coolant to water ration should be 50/50. Straight water will allow the engine to overheat quickly. So if the cooling system has been worked on recently and just topped off with water, it may be the cause.

Low Coolant

When the cooling system is low on coolant it will overheat as well. If this is the case, finding the leak and repairing it would be the best course of action.

May 032019


I would like to know if it is necessary to replace the Front Bumper Guard for my car. It was damaged and if the guard is not necessary I would just take it off. I have seen other Prados without this guard. I bought this car used and did not put it on.

Awaiting your reply,

No. You do not have to attach the bumper guard if you choose not to.

May 032019

 Chevy Malibu

About 3 months ago started acting like no power for about one second then would kick back in. About two weeks ago it started not wanting to shift into 4th gear and after two less than a mile drives since it jerks like a manual first time learning driver shifting into 4th gear (mostly in auto not so much when in manual mode). Once into 5th gear it’s fine as like 1-3rd gears. Just going into 4th. I’m disabled and need to get this fixed doe my weekly doctor’s visits. One mechanic said need new transmission, another said “it’s normal and gas saver lol” which we know that’s not the case if it’s never done it before. Ive read a wave plate or solenoid. Did find one very very very small hose leaked front drivers side lower hose by front quarter panel / bumper area but it’s so minute it’s not low. Don’t want to buy new transmission if not necessary. Thank you for your time. Exhausted Grammy.

The best first course action would be to have the transmission codes read at a Transmission specialty shop. This should tell you the exact problem area. If the transmission fluid color looks good, my guess would be a faulty/sticking solenoid. This is a common failure part that exhibits the symptoms you are describing.

May 032019

1964 Chrysler 300K

I have a 413CI RB big block in this car. I am needing to replace the rear main seal next week, so I am shopping for a seal kit. These are the options I have, which would be the best choice? 1. Felpro 2-Piece, Fluoroelastomer seal; 2. Mr Gasket Rear Main Seal, 2-Piece Silicone; 3. Felpro 2-Piece, Rubber Rear Main Seal; or 4. Felpro Rear Main Seal, 2-Piece, OEM-Style Rope Thanks

To narrow down the choices one might consider the installation tools. You will need a rear main seal installation tool with a bridge to install the rope seal properly.


An example of installation of rope seal without the proper tool.

I wouldn’t venture to say that any one seal is the best choice. They are all designed to perform the same function.

May 012019

2005 Infiniti G35

Symptoms: Passenger front caliper not braking as hard as driver front caliper. Car pulls left, but not dramatically. It is easy to get the ABS to kick in by braking hard, and the driver side front tire is first to lose traction under hard braking, makes hard gripping and skidding sounds when doing so. Passenger front caliper is very hard to bleed — requires very hard pedal press to get fluid out. Actions taken: Mechanics have replaced pads/rotors. Said system was fine. Since giving up on mechanics, I have rebuilt the right-front caliper, and eventually changed out all calipers with a factory rebuilt, and symptom persists. Replaced all flexible lines when replacing calipers, problem persists. More symptoms: Driver side tire wears faster, passenger side brake pads are wearing more slowly. Problem has persisted for several years, three mechanics have worked on it and have been unable to resolve. (Actually they claim there’s nothing wrong after working on it, but the symptoms are pretty clear.)
Additional info.: Rotors on car now are about two years old. Have tried going back to the stock rotors, then re-replaced with these aftermarket rotors. No noticeable difference. 96K miles on car. As enumerated above, I’ve rebuilt the problem caliper, purchased a rebuilt caliper, same results. I’ve also replaced all the brake lines, but not the hard lines that run throughout the car, just the flexible part. I’ve also flushed the fluid, replaced rotors and pads.

Pulls when braking

I would start by looking for a bent or kinked brake line going to the problem caliper side. This is based on you mentioning that it is hard to bleed on that side. This would indicate a restriction. The brake system is hydraulic and thus should provide the same pressure throughout. You should be able to bleed both sides with ease. In fact you should be able to crack the bleeder and gravity should allow the fluid to come out.  Typically when one caliper works and the other does not there is air in the system. If there is a restriction or kinked brake line, this can happen as well. I have seen a similar issue like this once and the cause was from the caliper being put on in a manner that twisted the caliper hose the wrong way.  Might check that also.

Apr 262019

 Dodge Durango

My dodge has electrical issues things working then not working. After looking into it I found two alarm systems and remote start. Then after market stereo converted into control module. I tore out to much and see that something else is wrong. Everything is running all the I’m all wire has been changed to 18 gauge and plugs laying all over. With other plugs put in place … So I’m looking to take it back to original factory alarm. Please help with a wiring diagram of the whole truck? Four months down stuck in my house.. I need a diagram I ordered new harness git ripped off and only got account has been frozen and no way to get to bank. Please please help me with a diagram.

Thank you for your request. If you want all the Premium Repair Manual Information and wiring diagrams that are available for this vehicle that are accessed online right now, follow this link REPAIR MANUAL for just $19.95 you can have full online access to everything you need including wiring diagrams, repair information, factory recall information and even TSB’s ( Technical Service Bulletins ) There are over 30 individual diagrams involved for just the alarm system. alone.
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