Sep 092019
 

2004-volvo-s40-pcv-hose

See attached picture. This hose keeps coming detached and causes the car to shake and the brakes to be very hard to press. What is this hose for and how is it supposed to stay connected?



Looks like a PCV hose, Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve hose.

It looks to me like the plastic molded piece has separated. You can purchase a new one and replace it or try to repair it. I would go for trying to repair it first myself. A thin bead of Super Glue around the edge should do the trick.

But if you have time you may want to call the dealership and have your VIN# handy. There is a TSB – Technical Service Bulletin out for this part.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose Extended Warranty 205

Reference number: SMB 22-205, Date of Issue: January 16, 2009

Effected Vehicles

Volvo: 2004 – 2008 S40; 2005 – 2008 V50; 2006 – 2008 C70; 2007 – 2008 C30

Extended Warranty 205 – PCV OIL TRAP AND VENTILATION

Volvo Cars of North America, LLC and Volvo Cars of Canada Corp. have voluntarily decided to extend warranty coverage for the PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose on model year 2004 – 2008 S40, V50, C70 and C30 vehicles. For eligible vehicles that are beyond the manufacturer warranty period, Volvo will extend the warranty coverage on the PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose for 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed into service.

Reimbursement for customers who previously paid for repair

Send repair order with a copy of the customer letter to:

Volvo PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose Extended Warranty c/o The Advertising Checking Bureau, Inc

P.O. Box 1919

Memphis, TN 38101



Failed Part # 30788494

Labor Time: 1.6 Hours

Description

It has been identified that in certain LEV2 (Low Emissions Vehicle) vehicles listed above, the material in the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)oil trap pressure control diaphragm and the crankcase ventilation hose may become cracked due to long term exposure to the crankcase environment. If this occurs it is possible that the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate and post an ECM (Engine Control Module) 250A code. In addition, there may be a whistle type noise emitted from the crankcase.

Sep 082019
 

2015 Infiniti Q30

I purchased a used 2015 Infiniti Q40 in November 22, 2018 with 39, 454 miles. To the date the mileage on the care is 45,801 miles. I don’t drive the car often as I have another car that is my primary car. About two weeks ago I noticed that my tire pressure, traction and brake lights started coming on each time I drove it. That prompted me to reach out to my warranty company because I’m thinking this is something electrical. Needless to say they refer me to a dealer to have the car inspected and I do just that.

The Dealerships Response

The findings were that the issue wasn’t mechanical but instead that my rear brakes were so worn down that they were beginning to cut into my rotors. They also said that my drive belt was severely worn. Per the advisor at the dealership these are issues that happen around the 25,000 mile mark and I haven’t even made it to 10,000. I am instantly upset because based on this information it sounds as though these were issues that were overlooked by the dealership that sold me my car.

The Question

My question is from a professional standpoint is it possible to wear down rear brakes and rotors and a drive belt in 9 months only haven driven the car 6,347 miles or are these pre-existing issues? I am very clear that the car is used and there can be general wear and tear but of this magnitude in this period of time? I was also informed by three different reps at the purchasing dealership that my brakes and rotors were flagged on the inspection report.



A used component is not going to last as long as a NEW component.  If the vehicles brakes were NEW and the belt was NEW to begin with I could see the issue. However this is more of a “what is covered under the warranty” issue. I’m guessing if the dealership would like to continue your business relationship they may offer to wave the labor cost of the repair but I can not speak on their behalf.

Sep 082019
 

2007-nissan-moco

I’m getting low gas mileage. We recently changed the air filter. Then cleaned o2 sensor, throttle body, spark plugs, and catalytic converter. The engine is in good condition. Average mileage is near 9.7



First Step

The first thing to do would be to see if there are any check engine light codes present. Next post the codes below and we can determine which codes may be effecting your fuel mileage.

What kind of mileage were you used to getting? Is this why you started throwing new parts at it and cleaning everything?

Have you tried fuel from a different station to see if there was a difference?

Possible causes

If you are letting the car warm up before driving it will decrease. Low tire pressure will also decrease fuel mileage. A clogged air filter or dragging brake caliper will also decrease fuel mileage.

Source: https://www.freeautomechanic.com/mechanic/forum/tag/fuel-mileage

Sep 032019
 

headlight ground

Left turn signal is dim, replacing bulb doesn’t work, using contact cleaner on any part of wiring or bulb connections or plugs hasn’t worked. any idea what the problem could be or the cost? its just the one bulb in the whole assembly that is dim and replacing of bulb does nothing.





You have tried some of the first steps when diagnosing a dim bulb. The next step would be to clean the ground connection for the bulb. This is the most common cause for a dim bulb. I am not talking about the ground connection in the bulb socket. I am referring to the ground from the wiring harness connecting to the frame/body.

“Simply clean the ground connection to restore the brightness of dim headlights. And apply a little dielectric grease. Or replace the bulb if you see a gray/brown film on the inside of the glass.”

Source: Family Handy Man

Sep 032019
 

2010-suzuki-kizashi

Looking to buy a 2010 kizashi has 127,000 on a CVT transmission. Looking for advise



We receive similar questions from time to time about purchasing a used vehicle. We have developed a used car buying guide to help look into common things to look for.

Did a little research on this specific vehicle and have found it, according to reviews, to be a great car all around. Not a whole lot of complaints or issues that stand out.

Aug 292019
 

 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Sometimes will not turn over, just clicks. Battery is good and relays appear to be working. Has only done this 4 times in the last year and a half but getting more frequent.



First thought, Replace Starter.

In general if you hear one hard click, the starter needs to be replaced. If you hear several clicks repeating(click, click, click, click, click) the Battery is Dead/Weak and may need replaced. If the battery is close to 4 years old or older, replace the battery anyway.

How to Replace the Starter – 2009 Jeep Cherokee 4.7, 5.7

Starter, Replace
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
  2. Then remove heat shield clip and heat shield from starter.
  3. Next remove the starter motor attaching bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove solenoid.
  5. Disconnect all electrical connectors from starter motor and remove starter.
  6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

a. Torque starter mounting bolts to 30 ft. lbs.

b. Torque starter B+ terminal nut to 108 in. lbs.

Aug 272019
 

Chevy Aveo

Car will start up and just idle. Tried driving it around the block and barely made it. What causes this and how do I fix it?



First off, any existing computer codes should be pulled with the use of a scan tool. Next, post any and all existing codes in the comments. We can use these trouble codes to help determine what is going on.

Reset Limp Mode

One thing you will want to try is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Then reconnect the battery and restart the engine. This should reset the computer if it just happened to be a glitch.

Limp Mode

Under certain conditions, the fueling system will turn OFF the fuel injectors for a period of time. This is referred to as fuel cut-off. Fuel cut-off is used in order to improve traction, save fuel, improve emissions, and protect the vehicle under certain extreme or abusive conditions.

In case of a major internal problem, the ECM may be able to use a back-up fuel strategy for limp mode that will run the engine until service can be performed.

Chevy Aveo Tech Tip

Aug 272019
 

2011-jeep-wrangler

When I lower my blower fan switch to off position it stays on low speed. I have a continuous knob not one with set speeds. Do I need to change the resistor or change the whole ac/heat control unit with the 3 knobs?



Lets take a look at the wiring diagram of the blower motor circuit.

Blower motor wiring diagram 2011 Jeep Wrangler

2011-jeep-wrangler-blower-motor

After looking at the diagram it would appear this vehicle uses a Power Module instead of a blower motor resistor. But this would be my first guess at to what needs to be replaced.

Manual or Automatic Climate Control?

Yes, both the Manual and Automatic temperature control heating-A/C systems use a power module to control the the blower motor speed. The power module uses a Pulse Width Modulated input from the A/C-heater control and a feedback signal from the blower motor to regulate the blower motor ground path. On both systems, the blower motor receives battery current through the Totally Integrated Power Module whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN position, and the blower motor control is in any position except OFF.

The blower motor can be accessed from underneath the instrument panel and is diagnosed using a Scan Tool.

How the Blower Motor Control Works

Aug 262019
 

2004 Volvo xc70

I have a very nice Volvo. I have an overheating issue that I cannot seem to figure out. I’m baffled. I could use someone who knows more than me. I could be way off on my reasoning.

Overheating Issue

1. When in stop-and–go or standstill traffic (or at idle) ONLY, my car is running hot or overheating. It varies on how long it takes. It does NOT happen when the car is steadily moving (even at low speeds).

Overheating Symptoms

1. The indicator will say to reduce the speed as the car is running hot.
2. I am NOT typically losing coolant.
3. When I start to drive, the warning goes away.
4. On a few occasions, it has said that the engine is hot and to stop the engine.
5. When it first started, I could not find a leak and added a bottle of stop leak. Dumb, I know. No lectures. But, it stopped overheating for about a week.
6. When the stop leak did not solve it, I drained but did not flush the system. (The coolant looked new.)
7. With the fresh coolant, I added an additive that also contained stop leak. No lectures. I ran the car at idle with the heat on high for more than two hours while continually gauging the coolant level. No issue with overheating. This too stopped the issue for about a week.
8. Each time I added stop leak, I ran the car very hard and replicated situations where it was overheating for an extended period of time without incident.

Eliminated Issues

1. I tried a new cap. Was not it.
2. The indicator is working. The car is running hot.
3. It’s not a head gasket. Again, I’ve only lost coolant if it was actually running hot and through the cap. I’m NOT losing coolant.
4. Again, it is not a head gasket. There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa.
5. It can’t be the thermostat stuck closed, as it would overheat on the highway.
6. The thermostat can’t be stuck open, as it would run cool.

Possible but Unlikely Items

1. A bad water pump could be the issue. BUT, it makes no sense that stop leak temporarily stopped and slowed the overheating under the same conditions.
2. For the same reason, I don’t see the coolant temperature sensor being the culprit. Stop leak would have done nothing to affect the issue.
3. While I could try a different cap in the assumption I got a defective one, it would not explain the temporary stop leak fix. It’s a closed system with the cap on the reservoir.
4. I don’t think it’s trapped air, as it’s self bleeding and was an issue before I replaced the coolant.

Only Possible Thing I See
1. Could it be a leak in the reservoir tank? It’s a closed system. It has a two-piece plastic reservoir that is factory fitted together. The seam is just above the fill line. There are no visible cracks.

Any thoughts?



Two immediate thoughts. One, you stated “The thermostat can’t be stuck open, as it would run cool”. Actually the engine will overheat in this instance as the coolant will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool it down.

My second thought would be the cooling fan. The engine while moving is not having an issue but it does while setting still. When the vehicle is setting still it is reliant upon the cooling fans to do its job. Check for failing fan motor relays and or fan motors if equipped.

Aug 242019
 

Pontiac G6

I had to replace the whole fuel pump assembly several months ago. Since then I’ve had problems with the car dying. Next there is really no pattern as to when it dies. I have had it do it at 80 mph and at idle, even during start up. It does seem to do it more frequently at higher temperatures. Been thinking its the ECM, but would it be more likely if it were the fuel pump flow control module?

Where is the fuel pump flow control module located on the vehicle? and how do I test it to check if its malfunctioning?



First I am looking for what you are referring to as a flow control module. This vehicle has what is called a Fuel Pressure Regulator. This regulates the flow of fuel to the fuel injectors. The regulated fuel pressure can be tested. It is built into the same assembly as the fuel pump. Could be a loose of bad electrical connection of faulty replacement fuel pump assembly. Finally start there first since this is what was worked on last.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm operated relief valve. The fuel pump is on one side of the regulator and the regulator spring pressure is on the other side. The function of the fuel pressure regulator is to maintain a constant fuel pressure under all of the operating conditions. The pressure regulator DOES NOT compensate for engine load by increasing the fuel pressure as the engine intake manifold vacuum drops. The vent on the fuel pressure regulator is an atmospheric vent only.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Location

The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel sender assembly.

Fuel Pressure Testing

  • Connect a fuel pressure gauge
  • Turn ignition on with engine off
  • Pressure should be between 56 – 62 if working properly
Fuel Pump Replacement 2008 Pontiac G6