Mar 222020

2012 Ford F150

What year engine will work in this truck? It is a 5L engine.

The 2013 Ford F150 is considered the Twelfth Generation Truck. It was manufactured from 2009 – 2014.


In 2010 Ford shifted its electronics from a GEM (General electric module) based to the computerized and programmable BCM (Body Control Module) Allowing for fewer parts differences and programmable upgrade options from the dealer or factory. Also in 2010 Ford reintroduced the 5.0 in the F series with its new 5.0 Coyote dual over head cam TiVVT engine with 360hp.

As part of a major focus on fuel economy, the entire engine lineup for the F-150 was updated for the 2011 model year. Along with two new V8 engines, the F-150 gained a new 3.7 Liter base V6 engine, and a powerful twin-turbocharged 3.5 Liter V6, dubbed EcoBoost by Ford. An automatic transmission is the only option. Other modifications include the addition of a Nexteer Automotive Electric Power Steering (EPS) system on most models.

According to:

Mar 222020

2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 4.7 v8 sohc. The other day my engine overheated on the interstate, by the time I got off and came to a stop it died and wouldn’t restart. What could cause it to not start anymore?

Could be many reasons for the vehicle to overheat. This would be something to look into for sure. As for the reason it wont start. Could be a blown head gasket, dead battery, locked up engine, etc.

What happens when you try to restart it?

  • Bunch of clicks ( click, click, click, click)
  • One hard click?
  • nothing at all
  • cranks over but doesn’t start

Step by step no start diagnostics chart

Mar 222020


Tried to remove vanos by the book, but helical gear will not disengage from intake cam. Any ideas on why it might be stuck or how to get it off?

In general when something made of metal is stuck or stubborn the use of concentrated heat will remedy the issue at hand. Sometimes an impact or smack with a hammer will also do the trick. A large rubber mallet is the preferred tool.

Mar 212020


Car got rear ended. No body damage. But now upon acceleration or slowing down car will make a popping noise. Popping noise will happen only once per acceleration or slowing down.

Noises can be difficult to diagnose. Follow the above link to get a better idea of what it might take.

In this case I might see if I could replicate the popping noise by bouncing up and down on the vehicle to see if it is a suspension issue. Then maybe have someone rev and torque the engine(in gear) while you look at the engine to see if a motor mount is broken.

Mar 182020


Whenever I start my car 1st time in the morning after the car not being used for more than 10 to 12 hours, Engine shuts off whenever I press clutch initially for first 2 to 3 KM’s. Once I drive more than 2 KM’s the car functions well and the engine also does not shut off then. This happens only for first 2 to 3 KM’s when I start the car after long interval.
Mechanic checked the car and changed the Air Filter, Ignition Coils, All Spark Plugs, Also got the Fuel Injectors Serviced and tested.
Got the car checked on ODB Device which showed errors –
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage (P0108) Temporary. but this error went away after getting all the above things done, car runs well but at the start as mentioned it shuts off for initial KM’s.
Need some expert comments.

Driving it for a couple of weeks may allow the computer to set a new code. The old code that is no longer there may come back. In the meantime you can look at a couple other things.

The engine stays running fine when it is warmed up. So there could be a failing ECT Sensor(Engine Coolant Temperature). 

There could also be a vacuum leak or a failing IAC Valve(Idle Air Control). No matter the issue, for right now it would be a good idea to drive it and see if the light comes back on.

Engine dies after idling

Mar 152020

2016 Nissan Pathfinder

My 2015 Nissan Pathfinder keeps shutting off and won’t reverse?

Is there a check engine light on? Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Do the car restart easily after it shuts off?

You can make sure the shifter is actually shifting the selector into the reverse gear. Physically look to make certain the manual lever on the transmission is actually shifting into the right position. Once you have made certain it is actually in the reverse position you can move on to testing pressure. You will be required to use a scan tool or an external gauge. This will let us know what is going on in the transmission. Most common failure component for this would be a faulty Line Pressure Solenoid.

Mar 142020


Vehicle was running fine.
One day, wife turns on headlamps and horn starts blaring.
Shuts lights off, horn stops.
This is consistent and repeatable.
Went to start it next day and battery is completely dead.
Hooked up jumper cables and got lots of sparks.
Let it charge up a minute and had her turn the key.
Rav started right up.
As soon as I removed jumper cables, the Rav died.
I re-connected cables (again lots of sparks) and the engine started cranking itself – without the key inserted.
Again, this is consistent and repeatable.
There are no blown fuses and the relays seem fine, but I haven’t replaced any.

I have access to an automotive probe and a basic understanding of automotive electrical, but don’t know where to start in this case.

Sounds like the starter relay/solenoid is sticking a bit. Also the Battery is not being charged. The alternator is not charging the battery and or the battery itself is no longer able to take a charge. That is why the engine dies as soon as the jumper cables were removed.

If the battery is around 4 years old or older it would be a good idea to replace it anyway. Once the battery is replaced then you can perform further testing.

You can tap on the starter relay/solenoid with the end of a screw driver and it may cause it to release.

Check all fuses and Fusible links. Here is a wiring diagram for reference.

1997 Toyota Rav4 Charging System Wiring Diagram


Mar 142020


When i start the engine, it will ran just fine for about 10-15 minutes, When the engine gets hot, the oil check comes up.
I have tried to change oil pump, oil, crank shaft, rod bearings but it has not helped. What could be the problem? Please help

The Oil pressure sending unit may be faulty. Replace the sending unit with a new one and test. The original one may test OK on an Ohms meter when it is at room temperature but once it heats up the readings may change drastically. This oil pressure sending unit is a normal failure part.

Mar 142020

Kia Optima

So my car has never had a problem except for when I would go to put gas in the tank. It would turn over but not start. The second time I would go to turn it on, I would feather the gas and it would turn on and run fine.

So the most recent issue started a few days ago when the car died less than a block from my house. When I turn the key, it would turn over but not completely start. When I turn it on and give it some gas, it would completely turn over, run kind of rough at a higher than normal rpm then the engine would die off. It only stays on for a few seconds.

When it dies, the dash shows the engine, battery, and oil light. The battery is charged, and the oil is filled. I also just changed the fuel pump a day ago thinking that was the issue. The car ran until I took it straight to the gas station and it did the same thing as described above.

First thing to do would be to have any check engine light codes read. Once you have the codes post them below in the comments and we will dig deeper into those. Next thing would be to determine the last time it was tuned up or had spark plugs replaced. Take a look around under the hood to see if there might be any kind of vacuum leak present.

It is a good idea to try and figure out what an engine is not getting when it will not start. Use the no start diagnostic chart to help assist in doing so.

Mar 142020


Hello, instead of connecting the positive terminal of the battery to the starter motor, I connected it to ground. At first I did not see any spark because the ground terminal was disconnected. But when i approached the ground wire to the battery negative terminal a spark appeared. After fixing my mistake, the fuel pump does not stop when the key is turned to “start” position and there is no crank.

What is the most common fault that it is expected to have from my mistake? Fried ECU? Fried starter? Bad ground connection? Thank you

Double check your connections and then make sure the battery is fully charged. Check the related fuses and relays. Sounds like the fuel pump relay is stuck on. I don’t think you harmed the starter. If you hurt anything it would be the battery.