Aug 242018
 

2004 Mercedes ML500

Radio come on but no sound, I check fuse is there a fiber optic fuse or what could it be?


Radio come on but no sound

I will provide you with the radio wiring diagram to use for diagnostics. If the problem is internal in the radio, replacing it would be the fix.

Radio Wiring Diagram – 2004 Mercedes ML500 (best viewed in Google Chrome Browser)

2004-mercedes-ml500-sound-systems-base-radio-circuit-1-of-1
Aug 232018
 

2002 Honda Accord

Idle rougher and rougher

My car was sitting unused in a garage for about two years. I had to replace the battery, and for some reason also the alternator was bad after that time (had no issues when it was parked).

I drove it to my friend’s repair shop to get the alternator replaced, which he did. He advised me to get new gas in it and apply injector cleaner, which I did. I also applied Heet. On the way to the gas station, there was thick black exhaust, which I attribute to bad gas, because I never saw it again. I drove it back to his shop where we discussed the exhaust; he had me press on the accelerator while he was looking at something under the hood.

That is when he noticed that the heat gauge was off the charts. He had me shut it down immediately. It turned out that no coolant had been in the car the whole time, apparently it had evaporated while sitting. He had never checked it, and I would not have known to do so.


Coolant

Coolant was poured into the radiator, resulting in jets of steam. This went on for a while until it was cool enough to be filled with coolant. When it was restarted, there was a terrible problem with the idle. He detected misfires on two cylinders and thought that there was serious engine damage.

The car seemed to be a loss. But later that day, he started it again, and it was completely fine. He drove it to my house. However, there is not a happy ending yet. I have a terrible issue after I have driven it a while, switch it off, and again restart it within a short time. I get issues with a very rough idle which will either 1) ‘catch’ and then the car will be fine to drive, or 2) idle rougher and rougher, until it bucks (the entire car will jolt forward and back), and eventually stall. Once I saw white smoke coming from the hood. Again, I thought that there was permanent engine damage, but upon starting the car again a couple of days later, again it was fine.

So this is a very strange problem, which affects the start mostly when the car has been recently used and driven for a period of time (a warm start). It will idle rough, ‘catch’ and then idle and drive fine, or it will degenerate into a really bad state, as I have described.

Please help. My mechanic friend is at a loss. I do not know enough about car mechanics to hazard a guess.


Idle rougher and rougher

My Advice with this one would be to pull the spark plugs and perform a compression test on the engine. This should be performed after the engine has been warmed to operating temperature. Wait as you would before it would have an issue. This will rule out a blown head gasket and give you a chance to look at the plugs. See if any of the plugs look damp or in need of replacement.

My thinking is the head gasket is blown. It is at the beginning stages and small. This would explain why only after the engine is warmed and shut off that a small amount of coolant seeps into the effected cylinders. This is just enough to cause a misfire until it has a chance to shove it out the exhaust. Then after a quick restart, the engine is able to burn any that may seep in.

 

Aug 232018
 

Hyundai Sante Fe

I have a check engine light on. The code reader displays code P0133 O2 sensor slow response bank 1 sensor 1
I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice, the fuel cap, spark plugs, fuel filter, intake manifold gaskets. All to the tune of $1400 but the light keeps coming back on.


Using a scan tool make certain the Sensor is working. If it is not working look into the wiring harness and connections. Next check for exhaust leaks, especially if any work has been done to the exhaust.

Code P0133 – Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. .Fuel pressure – Pump, regulator, filter or lines
  7. HO2S sensor contamination/damaged
  8. Exhaust leaks or restrictions
Aug 222018
 

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

Hello. I’am Fred. My turn signal will not turn off when I turn my steering wheel an my wiper blades don’t work together now. I have put in a new turn signal lever an a new clock spring. Please tell me what is wrong with this van.


The most common cause for this issue falls on a faulty multi-function switch. This switch receives a lot of use and therefore tends to wear out quickly. Here is the exact fit part required for replacement.

Shop Automotive

Multi-Function Switch Replacement

REMOVAL

  1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
  2. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  3. Disconnect wire connector from back of multi-function switch.
  4. Remove screws holding multi-function switch to steering column adapter collar.
  5. Remove the multi-function switch.

INSTALLATION

  1. Position the switch on to the steering column.
  2. Install the two retaining screws.
  3. Connect the wire harness connector.
  4. Install the upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  5. Connect the battery negative cable.
Aug 222018
 

Lincoln Towncar

repair or replace motor?


Drivers seat that wont go up or down

First determine if the motor is getting power from the switch. And if not, is the switch getting power. If you find the switch operating as it should and power getting to the motor, it may need to be replaced. Next, check all connections and test motor with both battery positive and negative.

The up and down function wires coming from the switch are RED/LT GREEN and YELLOW/LT GREEN. The black wire on the switch is connected to battery negative(ground). Use the wiring diagram provided to get an idea of how the circuit works.

Drivers Side Seat Circuit Wiring Diagram

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Aug 222018
 

2009 VW Tiguan

This car was manufactured in Slovinia, originally purchased in Canada, sent to Ghana where our NGO purchased it in 2014. Soon after, the EPC light came on and we have tried many things and continue to have problems.

The problem: EPC light comes on and sometimes there is not a problem, but most times, the car stops pulling. This can happen anytime – when the car is cold or when it has been running. YOu have to stop, turn off the car, wait and try and eventually, it will go again, sometimes for many miles or days, and sometimes just for a few minutes before you go again.

What we have replaced up until now:
Replaced: Throttle position sensor, APPS, coils 1 & 4 (I am told they were short circuiting), plugs, release bearing/clutch kit (a separate problem, I guess).

The error codes:
P1558
P0221
P1545
P0304
P0301
P2015
P0121
P0303
P068A
P0130A (?)
P0302

They report carbon buildup in the injectors ( I think they saw when they removed the intake manifold) are recommending we replace all of those and many more items.

I appreciate your help!


Multiple Trouble Codes Detected

Quite an assortment of codes you have going on. The P0300 codes are for misfires. The other codes have to do with the TPS and Intake Sensors. Looking at the big picture it appears there is an electrical issue. The electrical issue is most likely tied to the wiring harness. If this vehicle has been in a wreck, start looking in that area for pinched or damaged wiring. Look for corrosion on connectors and at the connections at the ECM and the sensors involved.

Code P1558 – Throttle Actuator Electrical Malfunction

Possible causes

  • Faulty Throttle Valve Control Module
  • Throttle Valve Control Module harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle Valve Control Module circuit poor electrical connection

Code P0221 – Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ‘B’ Circuit

Possible causes

  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
  • Fault Electric Throttle Control Actuator (or Throttle Body Motor)
  • Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APP)

Code P068A – ECM/PCM Power Relay De-Energized Performance – Too Early

Possible causes

  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) relay
  • Faulty ECM
  • ECM harness is open or shorted
  • ECM circuit poor electrical connection

Code P2015 – Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1

Possible causes

  • Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Aug 172018
 

2011 Ford Fiesta

Hello, I have some sort of electrical issue with my 2011 Ford Fiesta battery light. Upon starting the vehicle around 15 to 30 seconds in the battery/charge light illuminates exactly like clockwork every start. Also when this occurs it pulls the engine slightly nothing major. And if the rear defogger is on it will kick off and wont come back on. I purchased this auto in March has 118,000 miles I am the second owner it is in very good condition as the previous owner was a female and she purchased it new. The Alternator is good and battery also under a load its at 13.8 volt and off its 12.6 volts. I am stumped any input or advice is very welcome. Thanks


The guys at fixya would have you do the following:

  • check the dash connection.
  • also if you have a multi-meter, check the voltage  as it could be a bad earth or the main fuse for the alternator is blown. on the main wire near the connection there might be a fuse, if the alternator fails it will blow this before it gets to the battery. called fusible link .

Sounds good, but looking at the wiring diagram you can clearly see there are no fusible links. Only one 450A Mega Fuse.

Charging system wiring diagram – 2011 Ford Fiesta

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Aug 152018
 

Hyundai Sonata

Code P0340. Looking for diagram for plug. Last mechanic broke connector and spliced wrong connector on and crossed wires. Need to know what wires go where on sensor. Don’t want to short out new sensor. Car starts then dies in 3 seconds. Get 2 diagnostic trouble codes both P0340


Code P0340 Hyundai

Description: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 Or Single Sensor)

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

Camshaft Position Sensor Wiring Diagram

Camshaft Position Sensor Wiring Diagram

Aug 142018
 

Saab 93

Left side window problem

I have this strange problem on Saab 93 year 2004 2.2 tid vector sport fully equipped.
Left side drivers side that is window is doing (or not doing) the following:
1.Once pressed down window goes down fine.
2.Once pressed up nope you need to hold it up all the way.
3.There is no pinch protection on that window,others work just fine.
4.All efforts to calibrate that side came out negative – all other windows and sun roof and side rear mirrors work fine.
5.Remotely on key I can open all windows and sun roof(except the left one),and consequently I can close all windows and sun roof plus rear door mirrors – EXCEPT the left side door window.
6.Nothing has changed on that door since I bought the car – no replacements of module or etc.I did changed battery on several occasions but calibration worked fine on all windows,since one day when it decided its gonna make me miserable.
I would appreciate if anyone had a similar problem and sorted that out.

Taking the fuse out 35 and harness at the door removing and all sort of methods up down wait were tried countless times…For no good.


Replacing the window motor and regulator assembly, in most cases, will take care of most window problems followed by the door module.

Diagnosing a window problem

There are a few things you can check. Check the glass guide seal (A) on both sides of the window. Make sure that no rubbish has become caught. Clean the seal if necessary. Look to see if the seal is damaged or creased. Therefore if the seal is damaged or creased it must be replaced.

window seal

Remove the door trim and check that the window motor and regulator are securely fastened without play. Adjust if necessary. Check that the the window is fastened securely an is not unsteady in the slider when raised and lowered. The window must be in contact with the rubber coated mountings.

Pinch Protection Programming

  1. Close the window
  2. Reset the pinch protection by removing and re-installing fuse F5 from the instrument panel electrical  center. The pinch protection for both door modules is now reset and both front windows can be reprogrammed.
  3. Start the car.
  4. Lower the window fully. Hold the button depressed during the entire operation.
  5. Raise the window fully. Hold the button up the entire operation. Wait for at least 1 second when the window is in the top position.
  6. Lower the window fully. Hold the button depressed during the entire operation.
  7. Raise the window fully. Hold the button up the entire operation. Wait for at least 1 second when the window is in the top position.
  8. An audible confirmation is heard when the calibration has been completed. In the event that there is no audible confirmation, repeat the procedure.

won’t come out of park 2006 dodge 2500

 Auto Repair Questions, Dodge  Comments Off on won’t come out of park 2006 dodge 2500
Aug 072018
 

Dodge Ram 2500

Won’t come out of park

The shifter on my truck has been sticky since I bought it, but finally the other day I went to shift it into drive and the whole shifter fell. I was able to put it into drive by using the switch underneath and got it home. I replaced the whole shifter cable, and can move it now. But it won’t come out of park and the switch underneath seems to be jammed. Any suggestions as to what my issue could be? Or any solutions


Put it on jack stands. This will relieve some of the pressure on the parking pin in the transmission. The gear selector switch should move much easier.