I need a heater/ac wiring diagram.
Here you go:
I need a heater/ac wiring diagram.
Here you go:
Engine light stays on. Mechanic’s scope indicated a code and changed the Catalytic Converter and one Oxygen Sensor. Shortly after the engine light came on again. He changed the second Oxygen Sensor. Light came on again Both times he used his meter, the code said the problem was with the Sensor. Any suggestions for what I should check next? Could the problem be electrical (a short or faulty wire harness)?
I am guessing as to what the actual code is as you did not provide it. If the code is different please indicate it by responding in the comments.
Description: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
Why is the turn signals blinking fast at the front of the car but the rear lights do not come on?
This is normal for when there is a bulb failure. You should also notice the turn signal indicator on the dash flashing fast as well. Replacing the bulb that does not illuminate should fix the issue.
The TURN SIGNAL fuse in the LH I/P fuse block supplies ignition positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The HAZ SW fuse in the RH I/P accessory wiring junction block also supplies battery positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The turn signal lamps may activate only when the ignition switch is in the ON or ACCY position.
When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, current flows from the flasher module’s output to the turn signal switch assembly. The flasher module then sends an on-off voltage signal to either the left or the right turn signals and their instrument cluster (IPC) indicator. When you press the hazard switch, all the turn signal lamps and both of the IPC turn signal indicators will flash. The hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly is grounded at G201. The front turn signals are grounded at G101 and the rear turn signals are grounded at G302.
radio sound goes in and out about every 20 seconds
Quite a bit of noise about this issue. From some of the posts I have read, the FIX was replacing the RADIO(not the Amp).
Well I put a new rack and pinion in my 2006 Toyota Sequoia but had a issue. I didn’t tighten the drive shaft screw at bottom. But did tighten the two on top I was going to back to tht after I screwed the nozzles in I got the one small looking nozzle but the other would not tighten for nothing it didn’t look stripped it looked fine anyway the sun was going down and I had to get ready for work so I thought to my self I could tighten the one screw on driveshaft and put the nozzle in with my tires on ground anyway.
I put my tires on and took it off the jack and stands and started working on the nozzle which I couldn’t get to tighten but as I’m looking up I see the driveshaft screws are turned the opposite direction, and even tho I didn’t get the nozzle on all the way I just wanted to try to start my truck it would not turn over my truck always turns over all the lights lit the dash and made a weird sound but not even close to starting
Do u think there’s a problem tht my screws for my driveshaft are turned the opposite way in which I can’t reach is the reason my truck won’t start or the nozzle not in right or both
No. I think your battery drained while you were working on it. This is VERY common. Fully charge the battery and the vehicle should start right up as normal.
Your lights and radio will work fine with a weak battery as they require as little as 5 to 15 amps to operate. However a starter requires upwards of 200 amps to operate correctly.
I have a Toyota Auris (57 plate) which has started making a really strange noise. I have uploaded some dash cam footage of the noise here:
It is quite a loud sawing/grinding noise that seems to occur when I drive around 40mph or more. The noise generally comes and goes when I am over this speed but what I did notice is;
– The noise stops when I apply the brake, please see from 10 seconds on-wards and you’ll hear the noise goes away
– Also the noise tone changes when I steer to the left to a sharper but quieter noise
It sounds like the noise is coming from the engine but it is quite hard to tell. My engine makes normal noises when I am stationary. The noise is really annoying to hear when I am driving however and I want to get it fixed. Does anyone know:
1) Why is my car making that noise?
2) What would need repairing to get rid of the noise
3) How much could that set me back if I get it fixed?
In most cases when the noise gets quieter when you apply the brakes, the issue is with the brakes. However you also said the noise changes pitch when turning from left to right. This is an indication of a hub bearing going out. When the hub bearings start to fail they can also cause premature wear on the brake pads.
Therefore disassembly and inspection will be required to determine the exact cause and cost.
I’ve taken my car to a million mechanics (including the dealership) and there’s some electrical problem causing my low beams not to work. I adjusted my high beams so they point as low as possible. Is this ok? Will I still blind people?
Of course the best course of action would be to fix the issue. (most common cause would be the Multi-function switch) I would think any headlights are better than getting a ticket for driving without them. I’m sure it won’t take to many test drives at night to find out what oncoming drivers think about your headlight adjustment.
As far as blinding people with your high beams, I can understand your concerns.
Headlight aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment.
However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlight aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlights may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim).
If you believe your headlights need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.
Source – Chilton
I have a 1962 Lincoln Continental hardtop with a 430. It was running fine until a week ago. Suddenly, out of nowhere, when you turn on the ignition, there’s a single click and nothing else. This click is coming from the external starter motor relay. I replaced the relay and I’m getting exactly the same thing. The battery is brand new and fully charged. When I turn the ignition switch, the voltage across the battery terminals drops to 12.05. So it can’t be the battery. There’s a 0.07 volt drop between the positive battery terminal and the post on the starter regardless of whether the ignition switch is turned or not. There’s a 0.00 volt drop (so no drop at all) between the negative post of the battery and the starter motor housing when the ignition is off and a 0.03 volt drop when the ignition is engaged. So if my understanding is correct, there’s no significant voltage drop. Is the starter motor broken?
Replacing the Starter motor would be the fix. This is of course after you confirm the wiring is good from the Starter solenoid to the Starter along with the connections.
Initial start up car idles 1500 to 1700 open loop all good for about a minute or less. Then idle slowly drops down to 500ish, sometimes lower for a few seconds then back up to 1500. (Usually does that idle drop just once sometimes twice). Once its been idling for ten minutes or so(temp half way up on gauge) it will not drop lower unless I turn the ignition off and restart the car. Idle goes normal 870ish. Depends on how its feeling that particular moment. Also my LTFT is averaging -10 sometimes higher or a little lower. Seen the STFT get as high as -27 while live scanning. Could the car possibly not be transferring over to closed loop?
The car intermittently stalls. Sometimes during warm up, sometimes while doing 60 mph down the road and sometimes when I arrive to my location as soon as I stop and start doing the routine of parking. I’ve replaced IAC, TPS, TB gasket, IM gasket and plugs/wires. Also bled air from coolant. I keep throwing a P0420 cause manifold/converter has small crack in it right down the middle into the O2 sensor hole. Any response back with new suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The crack in the converter may be causing an issue if it is the upstream O2 Sensor(A/F Sensor). The idle is adjustable, I will add the procedure below.
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC)Valve.
The valve changes the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold in response to electric current controlled by the ECM/PCM. When the IAC Valve is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed.
1. After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150 – 300 rpm.
2. When the coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the engine coolant temperature.
1. When the idle speed is out of specification and the scan tool does not indicate Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 or P1508, check the following items:
2. When the above items are normal, substitute a known-good IAC valve and readjust the idle speed
If the idle speed still cannot be adjusted to specification (and the scan tool does not indicate DTC P0505 or P1508) after IAC valve replacement, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
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I have code p1777, PCM out put malfunction.
Where I can start to check? What that code means?
Code P1777 is set and sent to the PCM/TCM when OPU detect error into OPU internal power control circuit.
The HEV uses the hydraulic pressure that in addition to mechanical main hydraulic pump EOP (Electric oil pump) controlled by OPU (oil pump unit) to take command by PCM/TCM generates oil pressure to operate clutch and U/D brake.
When low speed driving or engine auto stop regardless of driving mode (EV mode or HEV), when hydraulic pressure becomes low because of mechanical main hydraulic pump rotation in low speed or stop, OPU supplies hydraulic pressure on U?D brake by operating EOP in order to protect Friction Element.
When shifting the driving mode from EV mode to HIV mode, EOP supplies hydraulic pressure to the engine clutch in order to use engine power when the driving mode shift is completed (Engine clutch: wet type multiple disk clutch that connect or disconnect the engine power between engine input shaft and transaxle input shaft)
According to the Manual you are to inspect the terminal and connectors first. Then check the component itself.