In general if you hear one hard click, the starter needs to be replaced. If you hear several clicks repeating(click, click, click, click, click) the Battery is Dead/Weak and may need replaced. If the battery is close to 4 years old or older, replace the battery anyway.
How to Replace the Starter – 2009 Jeep Cherokee 4.7, 5.7
Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
Then remove heat shield clip and heat shield from starter.
Next remove the starter motor attaching bolts and nuts.
Disconnect all electrical connectors from starter motor and remove starter.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Car will start up and just idle. Tried driving it around the block and barely made it. What causes this and how do I fix it?
First off, any existing computer codes should be pulled with the use of a scan tool. Next, post any and all existing codes in the comments. We can use these trouble codes to help determine what is going on.
Reset Limp Mode
One thing you will want to try is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Then reconnect the battery and restart the engine. This should reset the computer if it just happened to be a glitch.
Under certain conditions, the fueling system will turn OFF the fuel injectors for a period of time. This is referred to as fuel cut-off. Fuel cut-off is used in order to improve traction, save fuel, improve emissions, and protect the vehicle under certain extreme or abusive conditions.
In case of a major internal problem, the ECM may be able to use a back-up fuel strategy for limp mode that will run the engine until service can be performed.
When I lower my blower fan switch to off position it stays on low speed. I have a continuous knob not one with set speeds. Do I need to change the resistor or change the whole ac/heat control unit with the 3 knobs?
After looking at the diagram it would appear this vehicle uses a Power Module instead of a blower motor resistor. But this would be my first guess at to what needs to be replaced.
Manual or Automatic Climate Control?
Yes, both the Manual and Automatic temperature control heating-A/C systems use a power module to control the the blower motor speed. The power module uses a Pulse Width Modulated input from the A/C-heater control and a feedback signal from the blower motor to regulate the blower motor ground path. On both systems, the blower motor receives battery current through the Totally Integrated Power Module whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN position, and the blower motor control is in any position except OFF.
The blower motor can be accessed from underneath the instrument panel and is diagnosed using a Scan Tool.
I have a very nice Volvo. I have an overheating issue that I cannot seem to figure out. I’m baffled. I could use someone who knows more than me. I could be way off on my reasoning.
1. When in stop-and–go or standstill traffic (or at idle) ONLY, my car is running hot or overheating. It varies on how long it takes. It does NOT happen when the car is steadily moving (even at low speeds).
1. The indicator will say to reduce the speed as the car is running hot.
2. I am NOT typically losing coolant.
3. When I start to drive, the warning goes away.
4. On a few occasions, it has said that the engine is hot and to stop the engine.
5. When it first started, I could not find a leak and added a bottle of stop leak. Dumb, I know. No lectures. But, it stopped overheating for about a week.
6. When the stop leak did not solve it, I drained but did not flush the system. (The coolant looked new.)
7. With the fresh coolant, I added an additive that also contained stop leak. No lectures. I ran the car at idle with the heat on high for more than two hours while continually gauging the coolant level. No issue with overheating. This too stopped the issue for about a week.
8. Each time I added stop leak, I ran the car very hard and replicated situations where it was overheating for an extended period of time without incident.
1. I tried a new cap. Was not it.
2. The indicator is working. The car is running hot.
3. It’s not a head gasket. Again, I’ve only lost coolant if it was actually running hot and through the cap. I’m NOT losing coolant.
4. Again, it is not a head gasket. There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa.
5. It can’t be the thermostat stuck closed, as it would overheat on the highway.
6. The thermostat can’t be stuck open, as it would run cool.
Possible but Unlikely Items
1. A bad water pump could be the issue. BUT, it makes no sense that stop leak temporarily stopped and slowed the overheating under the same conditions.
2. For the same reason, I don’t see the coolant temperature sensor being the culprit. Stop leak would have done nothing to affect the issue.
3. While I could try a different cap in the assumption I got a defective one, it would not explain the temporary stop leak fix. It’s a closed system with the cap on the reservoir.
4. I don’t think it’s trapped air, as it’s self bleeding and was an issue before I replaced the coolant.
Only Possible Thing I See
1. Could it be a leak in the reservoir tank? It’s a closed system. It has a two-piece plastic reservoir that is factory fitted together. The seam is just above the fill line. There are no visible cracks.
Two immediate thoughts. One, you stated “The thermostat can’t be stuck open, as it would run cool”. Actually the engine will overheat in this instance as the coolant will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool it down.
My second thought would be the cooling fan. The engine while moving is not having an issue but it does while setting still. When the vehicle is setting still it is reliant upon the cooling fans to do its job. Check for failing fan motor relays and or fan motors if equipped.
I had to replace the whole fuel pump assembly several months ago. Since then I’ve had problems with the car dying. Next there is really no pattern as to when it dies. I have had it do it at 80 mph and at idle, even during start up. It does seem to do it more frequently at higher temperatures. Been thinking its the ECM, but would it be more likely if it were the fuel pump flow control module?
Where is the fuel pump flow control module located on the vehicle? and how do I test it to check if its malfunctioning?
First I am looking for what you are referring to as a flow control module. This vehicle has what is called a Fuel Pressure Regulator. This regulates the flow of fuel to the fuel injectors. The regulated fuel pressure can be tested. It is built into the same assembly as the fuel pump. Could be a loose of bad electrical connection of faulty replacement fuel pump assembly. Finally start there first since this is what was worked on last.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm operated relief valve. The fuel pump is on one side of the regulator and the regulator spring pressure is on the other side. The function of the fuel pressure regulator is to maintain a constant fuel pressure under all of the operating conditions. The pressure regulator DOES NOT compensate for engine load by increasing the fuel pressure as the engine intake manifold vacuum drops. The vent on the fuel pressure regulator is an atmospheric vent only.
Fuel Pressure Regulator Location
The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel sender assembly.
Fuel Pressure Testing
Connect a fuel pressure gauge
Turn ignition on with engine off
Pressure should be between 56 – 62 if working properly
I purchased this van in 2016 from an older couple and noticed that there was a slight hesitation with the automatic transmission when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. After changing the trans fluid and filter to 100% synthetic it improved.
Lately I’ve noticed there is a greater hesitation when cornering.
Is this solely transmission issues or could there be another problem, such as the drive shaft bearing or joint?
Most likely just transmission related since you did see a change in the transmission function when you changed the fluid and now it is showing similar signs. The best approach would be to see if there are any transmission codes stored in the computer that may indicate otherwise. Possibly a failing wheel speed sensor, etc.
I’ve got a water pump that needs replaced…can it be done by myself or is it best to take it to a mechanic?
According to the Labor Time Guide this is a 6 hour long procedure for an experienced mechanic. Noting that and the fact that you asked in the first place, Yes, take it to a mechanic. This is probably not the project you want to start learning on. Also the water pump is driven by the timing belt.
How to replace the water pump 2015 VW Jetta 1.8
Coolant Pump, Removing and Installing
Drip Tray VAG1306 or Shop Crane – Drip Tray VAS6208
Torque Wrench 1331 5-50Nm VAG1331
Hose Clip Pliers
This procedure contains mandatory replaceable parts.
Mandatory Replacement Parts
O-ring – Coolant Pump to Cylinder Block
Replace the gaskets and seals.
The lower toothed belt guard can remain installed.
The toothed belt remains in position on the crankshaft sprocket.
Cover the toothed belt with a cloth to protect it from coolant before removing the coolant pump.
►Drain the coolant.
►Remove the ribbed belt.
►Remove the ribbed belt tensioning damper.
►Remove the upper and center toothed belt guards.
►Remove toothed belt from coolant pump toothed belt sprocket.
►Remove the bolt 1 from the rear toothed belt guard 2.
►Remove the bolts 5 for the coolant pump and then remove the coolant pump 4.
Install in reverse order of removal. Pay attention to the following:
►Coat the new O-ring 3 with coolant.
►Insert the coolant pump 4.
Installed position: Sealing plug in housing points downward.
►Tighten the bolts 5.
►Install the bolt 1 for the rear toothed belt guard 2 on the cylinder head.
My Air Conditioning isn’t working right. If I start it when it’s relatively cool outside, like 75 degrees, it’ll blow ice cold. If I then continue to the desert where it’s 105 degrees, it’ll still be blowing ice cold. BUT, when I leave it in the desert for a few hours where it’s 105 and come back and turn it on (when now it’s very hot outside and inside the car), the AC will not blow any cold air. It’ll blow like 98 degree air, not any cooler. As I drive back towards cooler outside temps, then it’ll start to work again. It’s all very strange, not to mention uncomfortable. Any ideas? A couple months ago I had a new condenser installed from damage to the old one. I’ve already tried replacing the relay.
This is common to a failing mode/blend door actuator. The actuator is a tiny electronic device that opens and closes the doors inside the ventilation system. This allows it to switch from hot to cold.
When the vehicle sets, heat and moisture tend to affect these components. And when first put in use after setting they have a harder time functioning properly.
My car wont start, all lights work. I’ve had battery and alternator tested, they both were good. I don’t know whats wrong. When I try to cut the car on its silent.
Sorry to hear you are having such trouble. In general, when you turn the ignition key and hear one click it means the starter needs replaced. When you hear multiple clicks(click, click, click, click), it means the battery is dead, weak. When you hear nothing at all it means bad battery, poor connections at the battery or a failed starter.
I would say in worse case scenario the Starter and Battery will need to be replaced. But there is still hope for an easy and money saving cause. Your specific vehicle starting system is equipped with a STARTER RELAY that function between the ignition switch and starter. This would be a the best case scenario as it is less expensive and easy to get to.
The starter relay is located in the battery junction box. Also wouldn’t hurt to confirm the fuse(F10) that supplies power to the STARTER RELAY is good.