Sounds like you need to adjust the the nut on the shifter linkage to make that last 1/4 of an inch to get it all the way in park. From underneath the car, above the transmission is the slotted shifter linkage attachment for the trans. There is a 10mm nut that you can loosen and then move in that slot and then re-tighten to correct this condition.
Hello, the light for 4 wheel drive comes on when i drive my fiat and its dissappears when i restart motor. Its comes on out of nowhere but the interesting part is that there are a few places i drive by that the light comes on almost all the time i drive thought there. i tried mechanics they checked all the fuses and so on, everything was fine, i tried sending my dashboard for inspection everything was fine with the dashboard. Computer didn’t find any fault codes too. so I am out of ideas and i need help
I will go ahead and post this in case someone out there has an idea of what is going on with your 4×4 system.
Looking to buy a used car that will last me. Is this a good car? It has 25k mileage on it.
Almost all cars these days are “good” but not all are backed with the same warranty. So a car is only as good as the warranty that comes with it per say. Hyundai advertising as offering America’s Best Warranty at 10 years/100,000 miles. That is pretty hard to beat. That means the manufacturer is placing odds that the car will last 10 years or 100,000 miles minimal issue.
How the vehicle is maintained and driven play a large roll in how long it will last. Is the car being taken to the drag strip on the weekend or driven by grandma to the grocery once a week? I think you get the picture. Having the oil changed and the tires rotated on a regular bases will also make a difference. Fortunately this particular car only have 25k miles on it. So it is just now thinking about being broke in. Many more miles left on this one.
Should I buy It?
Most all cars are in pretty good shape with only 25k miles on them. So you may want to focus on what is important other than the obvious shape of the used car. Instead focus on cleanliness, comfort and overall appearance. Usually a nice clean car has been well taken care of and for our hard earned money, that is what want. We also want to be comfortable while driving and not feel like we are cramped up, etc. And of course we all enjoy the “Wow Factor” when looking at our new purchase.
See attached picture. This hose keeps coming detached and causes the car to shake and the brakes to be very hard to press. What is this hose for and how is it supposed to stay connected?
Looks like a PCV hose, Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve hose.
It looks to me like the plastic molded piece has separated. You can purchase a new one and replace it or try to repair it. I would go for trying to repair it first myself. A thin bead of Super Glue around the edge should do the trick.
But if you have time you may want to call the dealership and have your VIN# handy. There is a TSB – Technical Service Bulletin out for this part.
Extended Warranty 205 – PCV OIL TRAP AND VENTILATION
Volvo Cars of North America, LLC and Volvo Cars of Canada Corp. have voluntarily decided to extend warranty coverage for the PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose on model year 2004 – 2008 S40, V50, C70 and C30 vehicles. For eligible vehicles that are beyond the manufacturer warranty period, Volvo will extend the warranty coverage on the PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose for 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed into service.
Reimbursement for customers who previously paid for repair
Send repair order with a copy of the customer letter to:
Volvo PCV Oil Trap and Ventilation Hose Extended Warranty c/o The Advertising Checking Bureau, Inc
P.O. Box 1919
Memphis, TN 38101
Failed Part # 30788494
Labor Time: 1.6 Hours
It has been identified that in certain LEV2 (Low Emissions Vehicle) vehicles listed above, the material in the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)oil trap pressure control diaphragm and the crankcase ventilation hose may become cracked due to long term exposure to the crankcase environment. If this occurs it is possible that the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate and post an ECM (Engine Control Module) 250A code. In addition, there may be a whistle type noise emitted from the crankcase.
I purchased a used 2015 Infiniti Q40 in November 22, 2018 with 39, 454 miles. To the date the mileage on the care is 45,801 miles. I don’t drive the car often as I have another car that is my primary car. About two weeks ago I noticed that my tire pressure, traction and brake lights started coming on each time I drove it. That prompted me to reach out to my warranty company because I’m thinking this is something electrical. Needless to say they refer me to a dealer to have the car inspected and I do just that.
The Dealerships Response
The findings were that the issue wasn’t mechanical but instead that my rear brakes were so worn down that they were beginning to cut into my rotors. They also said that my drive belt was severely worn. Per the advisor at the dealership these are issues that happen around the 25,000 mile mark and I haven’t even made it to 10,000. I am instantly upset because based on this information it sounds as though these were issues that were overlooked by the dealership that sold me my car.
My question is from a professional standpoint is it possible to wear down rear brakes and rotors and a drive belt in 9 months only haven driven the car 6,347 miles or are these pre-existing issues? I am very clear that the car is used and there can be general wear and tear but of this magnitude in this period of time? I was also informed by three different reps at the purchasing dealership that my brakes and rotors were flagged on the inspection report.
A used component is not going to last as long as a NEW component. If the vehicles brakes were NEW and the belt was NEW to begin with I could see the issue. However this is more of a “what is covered under the warranty” issue. I’m guessing if the dealership would like to continue your business relationship they may offer to wave the labor cost of the repair but I can not speak on their behalf.
I’m getting low gas mileage. We recently changed the air filter. Then cleaned o2 sensor, throttle body, spark plugs, and catalytic converter. The engine is in good condition. Average mileage is near 9.7
The first thing to do would be to see if there are any check engine light codes present. Next post the codes below and we can determine which codes may be effecting your fuel mileage.
What kind of mileage were you used to getting? Is this why you started throwing new parts at it and cleaning everything?
Have you tried fuel from a different station to see if there was a difference?
If you are letting the car warm up before driving it will decrease. Low tire pressure will also decrease fuel mileage. A clogged air filter or dragging brake caliper will also decrease fuel mileage.
Left turn signal is dim, replacing bulb doesn’t work, using contact cleaner on any part of wiring or bulb connections or plugs hasn’t worked. any idea what the problem could be or the cost? its just the one bulb in the whole assembly that is dim and replacing of bulb does nothing.
You have tried some of the first steps when diagnosing a dim bulb. The next step would be to clean the ground connection for the bulb. This is the most common cause for a dim bulb. I am not talking about the ground connection in the bulb socket. I am referring to the ground from the wiring harness connecting to the frame/body.
“Simply clean the ground connection to restore the brightness of dim headlights. And apply a little dielectric grease. Or replace the bulb if you see a gray/brown film on the inside of the glass.”
In general if you hear one hard click, the starter needs to be replaced. If you hear several clicks repeating(click, click, click, click, click) the Battery is Dead/Weak and may need replaced. If the battery is close to 4 years old or older, replace the battery anyway.
How to Replace the Starter – 2009 Jeep Cherokee 4.7, 5.7
Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
Then remove heat shield clip and heat shield from starter.
Next remove the starter motor attaching bolts and nuts.
Disconnect all electrical connectors from starter motor and remove starter.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: