will not move except in D 2011 Chevy Cruze LT

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Aug 292018

2011 Chevy Cruze

Will not move except in D

Car starts and will shift from P to R to N and to D.  It will not move except in D and then will not shift into any higher gear than First.  The OBD II warning appears on the dash.  The car cannot be pushed in N (it appears that the Parking Lock as when it is in P, does not release).

  1. Can I do anything to allow me to move the car by manually pushing it a short distance?
  2.  Can I drive it 5 miles to the dealer in First Gear without further damaging the transmission?

The car should NOT be driven this way unless you can confirm the transmission fluid level is full. Then a five mile drive shouldn’t cause any further damage.


Aug 272018

Lincoln Towncar

The check engine light is on solid. The code P0183 which is the” fuel temperature sensor” is not happy. I have two questions about this code, where is this sensor located and what is the part number of the sensor.
I have called eight parts store and four Lincoln/ford dealers trying to get these two questions answered and got no ware. Please help me if you can to solve this baffling problem.

It is very strange that even dealers cant come up with answers. Is it possible that something else is triggering this code and it is not the fuel temperature sensor at all.

Thanks for any help you can give me.
PS: The car starts and runs just fine. 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series

Fuel Temperature Sensor

I went ahead and looked up the part for you. I double checked to make certain this is an exact fit for your 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series.

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Fuel Temperature Sensor Location

The fuel temperature sensor is located on the fuel rail. It is the same sensor as the fuel pressure sensor. One vacuum line, 2 screws and one electrical plug.

fuel temperature sensor

Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor electrical connector
2 9E498 Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum connector
3 N808874 Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor bolts (2 required)
4 9F972 Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor
5 Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor O-ring

Code P0183 – Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
Aug 242018

2004 Mercedes ML500

Radio come on but no sound, I check fuse is there a fiber optic fuse or what could it be?

Radio come on but no sound

I will provide you with the radio wiring diagram to use for diagnostics. If the problem is internal in the radio, replacing it would be the fix.

Radio Wiring Diagram – 2004 Mercedes ML500 (best viewed in Google Chrome Browser)

Aug 232018

2002 Honda Accord

Idle rougher and rougher

My car was sitting unused in a garage for about two years. I had to replace the battery, and for some reason also the alternator was bad after that time (had no issues when it was parked).

I drove it to my friend’s repair shop to get the alternator replaced, which he did. He advised me to get new gas in it and apply injector cleaner, which I did. I also applied Heet. On the way to the gas station, there was thick black exhaust, which I attribute to bad gas, because I never saw it again. I drove it back to his shop where we discussed the exhaust; he had me press on the accelerator while he was looking at something under the hood.

That is when he noticed that the heat gauge was off the charts. He had me shut it down immediately. It turned out that no coolant had been in the car the whole time, apparently it had evaporated while sitting. He had never checked it, and I would not have known to do so.


Coolant was poured into the radiator, resulting in jets of steam. This went on for a while until it was cool enough to be filled with coolant. When it was restarted, there was a terrible problem with the idle. He detected misfires on two cylinders and thought that there was serious engine damage.

The car seemed to be a loss. But later that day, he started it again, and it was completely fine. He drove it to my house. However, there is not a happy ending yet. I have a terrible issue after I have driven it a while, switch it off, and again restart it within a short time. I get issues with a very rough idle which will either 1) ‘catch’ and then the car will be fine to drive, or 2) idle rougher and rougher, until it bucks (the entire car will jolt forward and back), and eventually stall. Once I saw white smoke coming from the hood. Again, I thought that there was permanent engine damage, but upon starting the car again a couple of days later, again it was fine.

So this is a very strange problem, which affects the start mostly when the car has been recently used and driven for a period of time (a warm start). It will idle rough, ‘catch’ and then idle and drive fine, or it will degenerate into a really bad state, as I have described.

Please help. My mechanic friend is at a loss. I do not know enough about car mechanics to hazard a guess.

Idle rougher and rougher

My Advice with this one would be to pull the spark plugs and perform a compression test on the engine. This should be performed after the engine has been warmed to operating temperature. Wait as you would before it would have an issue. This will rule out a blown head gasket and give you a chance to look at the plugs. See if any of the plugs look damp or in need of replacement.

My thinking is the head gasket is blown. It is at the beginning stages and small. This would explain why only after the engine is warmed and shut off that a small amount of coolant seeps into the effected cylinders. This is just enough to cause a misfire until it has a chance to shove it out the exhaust. Then after a quick restart, the engine is able to burn any that may seep in.


Aug 232018

Hyundai Sante Fe

I have a check engine light on. The code reader displays code P0133 O2 sensor slow response bank 1 sensor 1
I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice, the fuel cap, spark plugs, fuel filter, intake manifold gaskets. All to the tune of $1400 but the light keeps coming back on.

Using a scan tool make certain the Sensor is working. If it is not working look into the wiring harness and connections. Next check for exhaust leaks, especially if any work has been done to the exhaust.

Code P0133 – Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. .Fuel pressure – Pump, regulator, filter or lines
  7. HO2S sensor contamination/damaged
  8. Exhaust leaks or restrictions
Aug 222018

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

Hello. I’am Fred. My turn signal will not turn off when I turn my steering wheel an my wiper blades don’t work together now. I have put in a new turn signal lever an a new clock spring. Please tell me what is wrong with this van.

The most common cause for this issue falls on a faulty multi-function switch. This switch receives a lot of use and therefore tends to wear out quickly. Here is the exact fit part required for replacement.

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Multi-Function Switch Replacement


  1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
  2. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  3. Disconnect wire connector from back of multi-function switch.
  4. Remove screws holding multi-function switch to steering column adapter collar.
  5. Remove the multi-function switch.


  1. Position the switch on to the steering column.
  2. Install the two retaining screws.
  3. Connect the wire harness connector.
  4. Install the upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  5. Connect the battery negative cable.
Aug 222018

Lincoln Towncar

repair or replace motor?

Drivers seat that wont go up or down

First determine if the motor is getting power from the switch. And if not, is the switch getting power. If you find the switch operating as it should and power getting to the motor, it may need to be replaced. Next, check all connections and test motor with both battery positive and negative.

The up and down function wires coming from the switch are RED/LT GREEN and YELLOW/LT GREEN. The black wire on the switch is connected to battery negative(ground). Use the wiring diagram provided to get an idea of how the circuit works.

Drivers Side Seat Circuit Wiring Diagram

Aug 222018

2009 VW Tiguan

This car was manufactured in Slovinia, originally purchased in Canada, sent to Ghana where our NGO purchased it in 2014. Soon after, the EPC light came on and we have tried many things and continue to have problems.

The problem: EPC light comes on and sometimes there is not a problem, but most times, the car stops pulling. This can happen anytime – when the car is cold or when it has been running. YOu have to stop, turn off the car, wait and try and eventually, it will go again, sometimes for many miles or days, and sometimes just for a few minutes before you go again.

What we have replaced up until now:
Replaced: Throttle position sensor, APPS, coils 1 & 4 (I am told they were short circuiting), plugs, release bearing/clutch kit (a separate problem, I guess).

The error codes:
P0130A (?)

They report carbon buildup in the injectors ( I think they saw when they removed the intake manifold) are recommending we replace all of those and many more items.

I appreciate your help!

Multiple Trouble Codes Detected

Quite an assortment of codes you have going on. The P0300 codes are for misfires. The other codes have to do with the TPS and Intake Sensors. Looking at the big picture it appears there is an electrical issue. The electrical issue is most likely tied to the wiring harness. If this vehicle has been in a wreck, start looking in that area for pinched or damaged wiring. Look for corrosion on connectors and at the connections at the ECM and the sensors involved.

Code P1558 – Throttle Actuator Electrical Malfunction

Possible causes

  • Faulty Throttle Valve Control Module
  • Throttle Valve Control Module harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle Valve Control Module circuit poor electrical connection

Code P0221 – Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ‘B’ Circuit

Possible causes

  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
  • Fault Electric Throttle Control Actuator (or Throttle Body Motor)
  • Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APP)

Code P068A – ECM/PCM Power Relay De-Energized Performance – Too Early

Possible causes

  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) relay
  • Faulty ECM
  • ECM harness is open or shorted
  • ECM circuit poor electrical connection

Code P2015 – Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1

Possible causes

  • Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Aug 172018

2011 Ford Fiesta

Hello, I have some sort of electrical issue with my 2011 Ford Fiesta battery light. Upon starting the vehicle around 15 to 30 seconds in the battery/charge light illuminates exactly like clockwork every start. Also when this occurs it pulls the engine slightly nothing major. And if the rear defogger is on it will kick off and wont come back on. I purchased this auto in March has 118,000 miles I am the second owner it is in very good condition as the previous owner was a female and she purchased it new. The Alternator is good and battery also under a load its at 13.8 volt and off its 12.6 volts. I am stumped any input or advice is very welcome. Thanks

The guys at fixya would have you do the following:

  • check the dash connection.
  • also if you have a multi-meter, check the voltage  as it could be a bad earth or the main fuse for the alternator is blown. on the main wire near the connection there might be a fuse, if the alternator fails it will blow this before it gets to the battery. called fusible link .

Sounds good, but looking at the wiring diagram you can clearly see there are no fusible links. Only one 450A Mega Fuse.

Charging system wiring diagram – 2011 Ford Fiesta



Aug 152018

Hyundai Sonata

Code P0340. Looking for diagram for plug. Last mechanic broke connector and spliced wrong connector on and crossed wires. Need to know what wires go where on sensor. Don’t want to short out new sensor. Car starts then dies in 3 seconds. Get 2 diagnostic trouble codes both P0340

Code P0340 Hyundai

Description: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 Or Single Sensor)

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

Camshaft Position Sensor Wiring Diagram

Camshaft Position Sensor Wiring Diagram