My first guess would be that the transmission is not shifting correctly and is starting out in 2nd gear after a stop. This would also account for the engine having to work harder to accelerate that may attribute to the louder engine noise. A check engine light code might guide us in the right direction.
When I pull my camper it gets to the very high end of the temp. still inside the normal range but almost hot. When I first got my truck it didn’t have that problem, it ran in the middle. It is a 1997 Ford F250 with a 7.5L engine.
I will assume the coolant level is full and the cooling system has no leaks.
A couple of things come to mind on this one. First the clutch fan may be getting weak and in need of replacement. It take about a hour to swap it out. Any obstruction in front of the radiator would also contribute the issue. Lastly I would want to confirm the temperature reading is accurate. It is possible that the coolant temperature sending unit is not functioning correctly.
Clutch Fan Failing
Radiator air flow obstructed
Faulty coolant temperature reading
You can check the engine coolant temperature with an external infra red temperature gun. You can pick one up reasonably cheap at amazon for under $20.
Just aim it at the engine head or upper radiator hose to check the temperature.
Clutch fan can also be picked up pretty reasonable for under $40 and like i mentioned earlier, it takes about an hour to swap it out.
My 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport just started not starting on first try as normal. been about 4 times its been hard to start, turns over much longer before start. sounds normal as it turns over just doesn’t start right away?
This is usually a sign of lack of fuel pressure. A quick test would be to cycle the ignition key several times before trying to start it. This will allow a little bit more time for the fuel pump to build required pressure. Turn the ignition key ON and hold for 3 to 10 seconds, then turn it OFF. Do this several times and then try to start the engine. If the engine fires right up like it normally did then you know the issue is fuel related.
Cranks over longer before starting because of fuel pressure
The number one reason would be fuel pump pressure loss. This can be from a failing fuel pump, failing fuel pressure regulator or clogged fuel filter.
Vacuum leak causing longer than normal crank time
There is a chance that a vacuum leak is causing an issue. Loose connections at or around the Mass Air Flow Sensor will cause a false signal to be sent to the engines computer and may make it difficult to start.
Internal Vacuum leak causing hard starting
There is a chance that the idle air control valve is sticking. When this happens the check engine light does not illuminate. A quick test would be to press down slightly on the accelerator pedal while trying to start the engine. If the engine starts easier then the next step would be to clean or replace the idle air control valve.
(K21) IAT sensor signal circuit shorted to battery voltage
IAT Sensor internal failure
(K21) IAT Sensor signal circuit open
(K900) Sensor ground circuit open
How to test the IAT for Code P1193
Turn the ignition ON. With the DRBIII, read the IAT voltage. Is the voltage above 4.6 volts?
Yes -> Go To 2
No -> Refer to the intermittent condition and perform Powertrain Verification Test Ver – 5
2. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the IAT Sensor harness connector. Turn the ignition ON. Measure the voltage of the (K21) IAT Sensor Signal circuit in the IAT Sensor harness connector.
Is the voltage above 5.2 volts?
Yes -> Repair the short to voltage in the (K21) IAT Sensor Signal circuit. then Perform Powertrain Verification Test Ver – 5.
No -> Go To 3
3. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the IAT harness connector. Connect a jumper wire between the (K21) IAT Sensor Signal circuit and the (K900) Sensor Ground circuit in the IAT harness connector. Turn the ignition ON. With the DRBIII, read IAT Voltage.
Is the voltage below 1.0 volts?
Yes -> Replace the IAT Sensor. Perform Powertrain Verification Ver – 5.
No -> Go To 4
4. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the IAT harness connector. Disconnect the PCM harness connector. Measure the resistance of the (K21) IAT Sensor Signal circuit between the IAT Sensor harness connector and the PCM harness connector.
Is the re4sistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes -> Go To 5
No -> Repair the open in the (K21) Sensor Signal circuit. Perform Powertrain Verification Ver – 5.
5. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the IAT Sensor harness connector. Disconnect the PCM harness connector. Measure the resistance of the (K900) IAT Sensor Ground circuit between the IAT Sensor harness connector and the PCM harness connector.
Is the re4sistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes -> Go To 6
No -> Repair the open in the (K900) Sensor Ground circuit. Perform Powertrain Verification Ver – 5.
6. NOTE: Before continuing, check the PCM harness connector terminals for corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Repair as necessary.
Using the schematics as a guide, inspect the wire harness and connectors. Pay particular attention to all Power and Ground circuits. If there are no possible causes remaining, view repair.
Changed rear rotors and brakes and now wheel won’t spin in reverse. Parking brake is engaged in reverse. Replaced all springs/hardware on parking brakes and used PBBlaster to make sure the cable wasn’t getting hung up. Tried to drive the car several times and parking brake is definitely on in reverse. Adjusted the adjustment wheel so that the brakes are compacted as much as can be and the hub spins fine forward but stops immediately when spun in reverse. I even put the old rotors back on thinking that would solve it however still acts the same. In the end, by taking out the adjustment wheel spreader the car works, however I have no parking brake and it will not pass state inspection this month without it. I’m at a loss and feel as if I’ve tried everything.
This may sound odd to you but I have seen this once before. It turned out the brake shoes were install improperly. Let me see if I can describe what was going on. The brake shoe material is a different size for two of them. The actual external shoe (metal part) is the same on all four per say. But there are two that the shoe material is shorter then the other. Looking at just one side with two short shoes or one side with two longer shoes would be hard to notice. And the difference if difficult to notice at all until you set one directly on top of the other for comparison. This would be what I would recommend you check first.
Parking Brake Shoes Replacement
1. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove mounting bolts, then separate rear disc brake caliper assembly. Use wire or an equivalent tool to keep brake caliper from hanging down by flexible hose.
I’m trying to figure out if I just have a radiator leak, or is it also the head gasket. Engine keeps losing water, visible but sporadic leak in bottom of radiator(I’ve replaced thermostat and water pump), also, there’s oil splashed on engine. Would a blown head gasket cause the radiator to leak as well? No white smoke or white on oil cap, car runs fine otherwise.
Sounds like you just have and external leak in the cooling system.
I like to use a cooling system pressure tester to assist me in locating coolant leaks. You just attach it to the top of the radiator and pump it up and look for the leak.
If you find the radiator is leaking you should replace it and retest. If you find you are loosing coolant and not externally, then you may need to check for a blown head gasket. With no leak internally or externally the pressure tester should hold the same pressure as the radiator cap indicates.
My 1999 Lexus Es300 had 8 codes. 2 old ( both knock sensors, both have been replaced along with the wiring harness). Yesterday car started to smell faintly of gas fumes. Today car was running fine , then at stoplight it started to idle rough and stumble. And 6 new codes along with it. P0120, P0441 (shows this code twice), P0300, P0304 and P0305
The 3 p0300 codes are all misfire codes. P0300 is a multiple misfire code and P0304 is cylinder # 4 and P0305 is cylinder #5. Could be a blown head gasket or a glitch if it continues after trying to reset codes and test. As for the other codes I have outlined there meaning below. The P0441 will not effect drivability so I would concentrate on the other codes first.
Code P0120 – Throttle/Pedal position sensor/switch “A” circuit malfunction
Code P0120 Description
The throttle position sensor is mounted in the throttle body and detects the throttle valve opening angle. When the throttle valve is fully closed, a voltage of approximately 0.7 is applied to terminal VTA and the ECM. This voltage increases in proportion to the opening angle of the throttle valves and becomes approximately 2.7 ~ 5.2V when throttle is fully open. The ECM judges the vehicle driving conditions from these signals input from terminals VTA and uses them as one of the conditions for deciding the air-fuel-ratio correction, power increase correction and fuel-cut control etc.
HINT: If DTCs P0110 (Intake Air Temp. Circuit Malfunction) and P0115 (Engine Coolant Temp. Circuit Malfunction) and P0120 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ”A” Circuit Malfunction) are output simultaneously, E2 (sensor ground) bay be open. Read freeze frame data using LEXUS hand-held tester or OBD II scan tool. Because freeze frame records the engine conditions when the malfunction is detected, when troubleshooting it is useful for determining whether the vehicle was running or stopped, the engine warmed up or not, the air-fuel ratio lean or rich, etc. at the time of the malfunction.
Code P0441 – Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
Code P0441 Description
The vapor pressure sensor and VSV for vapor pressure sensor are used to detect abnormalities in the evaporative emission control system. The ECM decides whether there is an abnormality in the evaporative emission control system based on the vapor pressure sensor signal. DTCs P0441 and P0446 are recorded by the ECM when evaporative emissions leak from the components within the dotted line in fig. 1 below, or when there is a malfunction in either the VSV for EVAP, the VSV for vapor pressure sensor, or in the vapor pressure sensor itself.
I recently replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The tach began working again, brakes stopped being super touchy, and the car would shift fine again, problem solved. However, just 2 weeks later same exact problem again. My question is, would there be a cause for this part to repeatedly fail and how to prevent it failing again?
There are a few things to look at. The sensor of course. Next look at the connection to the sensor. Then check the wiring harness and connection at the PCM.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Description
A Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) is a magnetic type sensor that generates voltage using a sensor and a target wheel mounted on the crankshaft. There are 58 slots in the target wheel where one is longer than the others. When the slot in the wheel aligns with the sensor, the sensor voltage outputs low. When the metal (tooth) in the wheel aligns with the sensor, the sensor voltage outputs high. During one crankshaft rotation there are 58 rectangular signals and one longer signal. The PCM calculates engine RPM by using the sensor’s signal and controls the injection duration and the ignition timing. Using the signal differences caused by the longer slot, the PCM identifies which cylinder is at top dead center.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Location
How to test the crankshaft position sensor
Using an ohm meter check for the Resistance. You are looking for it to read between 774 – 946. If it is not, replacement will be needed.
I have trans fluid all over my front differential of my 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo.
Most likely cause would be from a leak coming from the transmission cooler lines that attached to the radiator. One thing to remember is fluid does not travel up hill. Keep that in mind when looking for the source. Top off the transmission fluid level. Clean the area all around and above. Operate and look for the leak. Once the leak is found make the necessary repairs.
I do recommend using a 8mm socket instead of a flat blade screwdriver to tighten your hose clamps. This will give you that little bit extra that you need to get it tight.