2005 Chrysler Town and Country Code P0420

 Auto Repair Questions, Chrysler  Comments Off on 2005 Chrysler Town and Country Code P0420
Sep 082018
 

Chrysler Town and Country

Engine light stays on. Mechanic’s scope indicated a code and changed the Catalytic Converter and one Oxygen Sensor. Shortly after the engine light came on again. He changed the second Oxygen Sensor. Light came on again Both times he used his meter, the code said the problem was with the Sensor. Any suggestions for what I should check next? Could the problem be electrical (a short or faulty wire harness)?


I am guessing as to what the actual code is as you did not provide it. If the code is different please indicate it by responding in the comments.

Chrysler Code P0420

Description: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

Probable Causes:

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. HO2S sensor contamination/damaged
  7. Exhaust leaks or restrictions
  8. Catalytic converter damage
  9. Catalytic converter improper operation
Sep 082018
 

2001 Chevy Monte Carlo

Why is the turn signals blinking fast at the front of the car but the rear lights do not come on?


This is normal for when there is a bulb failure. You should also notice the turn signal indicator on the dash flashing fast as well. Replacing the bulb that does not illuminate should fix the issue.

Turn Signal Bulb Replacement

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove the radiator air baffle.
  • Apply light pressure to the headlamp lens to hold the headlamp in place while removing the retainers.
  • Lift up the headlamp retainers to release the headlamp from the upper fascia support.
  • Remove the headlamp from the slots in the upper fascia support.
  • Replace bulb

Turn Signal Lights

The TURN SIGNAL fuse in the LH I/P fuse block supplies ignition positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The HAZ SW fuse in the RH I/P accessory wiring junction block also supplies battery positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The turn signal lamps may activate only when the ignition switch is in the ON or ACCY position.

When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, current flows from the flasher module’s output to the turn signal switch assembly. The flasher module then sends an on-off voltage signal to either the left or the right turn signals and their instrument cluster (IPC) indicator. When you press the hazard switch, all the turn signal lamps and both of the IPC turn signal indicators will flash. The hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly is grounded at G201. The front turn signals are grounded at G101 and the rear turn signals are grounded at G302.

Radio cuts out every 20 seconds 2012 Dodge Ram quad

 Auto Repair Questions, Dodge  Comments Off on Radio cuts out every 20 seconds 2012 Dodge Ram quad
Sep 082018
 

Dodge Ram 1500

radio sound goes in and out about every 20 seconds


Quite a bit of noise about this issue. From some of the posts I have read, the FIX was replacing the RADIO(not the Amp).

  1. Just as a quick try, Try disconnecting your negative battery post for about 60 seconds. Sometimes(but not always) this will clear an electrical glitch. It can’t hurt, and in fact, will give you the benefit of re-setting the PCM(like the Fuse 2 removal). Second thing I would check would be to plug connection in the back of the radio. Hope one of these two simple things may help you.
  2. Mine was fixed at the dealer. First they thought it was the amp which they replaced and still gave the same symptoms with everything working, just no sound. Then they replaced the radio and that solved the issue. So I ended up a new amp and a new radio. No problems since then.

(Source: challengerforumz.com)

 

Sep 082018
 

2006 Toyota Sequoia

New rack and pinion

Well I put a new rack and pinion in my 2006 Toyota Sequoia but had a issue. I didn’t tighten the drive shaft screw at bottom. But did tighten the two on top I was going to back to tht after I screwed the nozzles in I got the one small looking nozzle but the other would not tighten for nothing it didn’t look stripped it looked fine anyway the sun was going down and I had to get ready for work so I thought to my self I could tighten the one screw on driveshaft and put the nozzle in with my tires on ground anyway.

I put my tires on and took it off the jack and stands and started working on the nozzle which I couldn’t get to tighten but as I’m looking up I see the driveshaft screws are turned the opposite direction, and even tho I didn’t get the nozzle on all the way I just wanted to try to start my truck it would not turn over my truck always turns over all the lights lit the dash and made a weird sound but not even close to starting
You
Do u think there’s a problem tht my screws for my driveshaft are turned the opposite way in which I can’t reach is the reason my truck won’t start or the nozzle not in right or both


Would not turn over

No. I think your battery drained while you were working on it. This is VERY common. Fully charge the battery and the vehicle should start right up as normal.

Your lights and radio will work fine with a weak battery as they require as little as 5 to 15 amps to operate. However a starter requires upwards of 200 amps to operate correctly.

Sep 082018
 

I have a Toyota Auris (57 plate) which has started making a really strange noise. I have uploaded some dash cam footage of the noise here:

It is quite a loud sawing/grinding noise that seems to occur when I drive around 40mph or more. The noise generally comes and goes when I am over this speed but what I did notice is;

– The noise stops when I apply the brake, please see from 10 seconds on-wards and you’ll hear the noise goes away

– Also the noise tone changes when I steer to the left to a sharper but quieter noise

It sounds like the noise is coming from the engine but it is quite hard to tell. My engine makes normal noises when I am stationary. The noise is really annoying to hear when I am driving however and I want to get it fixed. Does anyone know:

1) Why is my car making that noise?

2) What would need repairing to get rid of the noise

3) How much could that set me back if I get it fixed?

Many Thanks,

James


Loud sawing/grinding noise

In most cases when the noise gets quieter when you apply the brakes, the issue is with the brakes. However you also said the noise changes pitch when turning from left to right. This is an indication of a hub bearing going out. When the hub bearings start to fail they can also cause premature wear on the brake pads.

Therefore disassembly and inspection will be required to determine the exact cause and cost.

 

Sep 082018
 

2005 Chevy Impala

I’ve taken my car to a million mechanics (including the dealership) and there’s some electrical problem causing my low beams not to work. I adjusted my high beams so they point as low as possible. Is this ok? Will I still blind people?


Of course the best course of action would be to fix the issue. (most common cause would be the Multi-function switch) I would think any headlights are better than getting a ticket for driving without them. I’m sure it won’t take to many test drives at night to find out what oncoming drivers think about your headlight adjustment.

As far as blinding people with your high beams, I can understand your concerns.

Headlight Aiming

Headlight aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment.

However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlight aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlights may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim).

If you believe your headlights need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.

Source – Chilton

Sep 052018
 

1962 Lincoln Continental

Single click and nothing else

I have a 1962 Lincoln Continental hardtop with a 430. It was running fine until a week ago. Suddenly, out of nowhere, when you turn on the ignition, there’s a single click and nothing else. This click is coming from the external starter motor relay. I replaced the relay and I’m getting exactly the same thing. The battery is brand new and fully charged. When I turn the ignition switch, the voltage across the battery terminals drops to 12.05. So it can’t be the battery. There’s a 0.07 volt drop between the positive battery terminal and the post on the starter regardless of whether the ignition switch is turned or not. There’s a 0.00 volt drop (so no drop at all) between the negative post of the battery and the starter motor housing when the ignition is off and a 0.03 volt drop when the ignition is engaged. So if my understanding is correct, there’s no significant voltage drop. Is the starter motor broken?


Replacing the Starter motor would be the fix. This is of course after you confirm the wiring is good from the Starter solenoid to the Starter along with the connections.

Starter Motor Brush Replacement

  1. Remove the starter from the engine.
  2. Remove the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
  3. Loosen and remove the brush cover band and remove the brushes from their holder.
  4. Remove the two through-bolts from the starter frame.
  5. Separate the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
  6. Remove the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and remove the armature.
  7. Remove the ground brush retaining screws from the frame and remove the brushes.
  8. Cut the insulated brush leads from the field coils, as close to the field connection point as possible.
  9. Clean and inspect the starter motor.
  10. Replace the brush end plate if the insulator between the field brush holder and the end plate is cracked or broken.
  11. Position the new insulated field brush leads on the field coil connection. Position and crimp the clip provided with the brushes to hold the brush leads to the connection. Solder the lead, clip, and connection together using resin core solder. Use a 300 watt soldering iron.
  12. Install the ground brush leads to the frame with the retaining screws.
  13. Install the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and install the armature.
  14. Assemble the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
  15. Install the two through-bolts in the starter frame. Tighten the through-bolts to 55-75 inch lbs. (6.2-8.5 Nm).
  16. Install the brushes in their holders and install the brush cover band.
  17. Install the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
  18. Install the starter on the engine as previously outlined.
Sep 042018
 

1998 Honda Civic

Intermittently stalls

Initial start up car idles 1500 to 1700 open loop all good for about a minute or less. Then idle slowly drops down to 500ish, sometimes lower for a few seconds then back up to 1500.  (Usually does that idle drop just once sometimes twice). Once its been idling for ten minutes or so(temp half way up on gauge) it will not drop lower unless I turn the ignition off and restart the car. Idle goes normal 870ish. Depends on how its feeling that particular moment. Also my LTFT is averaging -10 sometimes higher or a little lower. Seen the STFT get as high as -27 while live scanning. Could the car possibly not be transferring over to closed loop?

The car intermittently stalls. Sometimes during warm up, sometimes while doing 60 mph down the road and sometimes when I arrive to my location as soon as I stop and start doing the routine of parking. I’ve replaced IAC, TPS, TB gasket, IM gasket and plugs/wires. Also bled air from coolant.  I keep throwing a P0420 cause manifold/converter has small crack in it right down the middle into the O2 sensor hole. Any response back with new suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Matt


Hello Matt,

The crack in the converter may be causing an issue if it is the upstream O2 Sensor(A/F Sensor). The idle is adjustable, I will add the procedure below.

Idle Control System

System Description

The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC)Valve.
The valve changes the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold in response to electric current controlled by the ECM/PCM. When the IAC Valve is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed.

1. After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150 – 300 rpm.
2. When the coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the engine coolant temperature.

1998-honda-civic-iac-diagram-2

1. When the idle speed is out of specification and the scan tool does not indicate Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 or P1508, check the following items:

  •  Adjust the idle speed
  • Starter switch signal
  • Air conditioning signal
  • ALT FR signal
  • Brake switch signal
  • PSP switch signal
  • A/T gear position signal
  • Clutch switch signal
  • Hoses and connections
  • IAC valve and its mounting O-rings

2. When the above items are normal, substitute a known-good IAC valve and readjust the idle speed
If the idle speed still cannot be adjusted to specification (and the scan tool does not indicate DTC P0505 or P1508) after IAC valve replacement, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.

How to Adjust Idle Speed

(best viewed with Google Chrome)
1998-honda-civic-idle-speed-adjustment-except-d16b5-gx-

Aug 302018
 

2012 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid

I have code p1777, PCM out put malfunction.
Where I can start to check? What that code means?
thank you


Code P1777 – OPU Power Control Circuit Failure

Code P1777 is set and sent to the PCM/TCM when OPU detect error into OPU internal power control circuit.

Possible Causes:

  1. OPU Power stack error
  2. EOP stuck error
  3. 3-phase wiring short to VB,GND

OPU Power Control Unit Location

OPU Power Control Unit Location

Code P1777 General Description

The HEV uses the hydraulic pressure that in addition to mechanical main hydraulic pump EOP (Electric oil pump) controlled by OPU (oil pump unit) to take command by PCM/TCM generates oil pressure to operate clutch and U/D brake.

When low speed driving or engine auto stop regardless of driving mode (EV mode or HEV), when hydraulic pressure becomes low because of mechanical main hydraulic pump rotation in low speed or stop, OPU supplies hydraulic pressure on U?D brake by operating EOP in order to protect Friction Element.

When shifting the driving mode from EV mode to HIV mode, EOP supplies hydraulic pressure to the engine clutch in order to use engine power when the driving mode shift is completed (Engine clutch: wet type multiple disk clutch that connect or disconnect the engine power between engine input shaft and transaxle input shaft)

What to check

According to the Manual you are to inspect the terminal and connectors first. Then check the component itself.

  • Thoroughly check connectors for looseness, poor connection, bending, corrosion, contamination, deterioration or damage.
  • In order to check the component, the manual advises to clear the code(with a scantool) after cycling the IG on and off two or three times. If the same code returns, substitute with a known-good PCM/TCM and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace PCM/TCM.
Aug 302018
 

1998 Isuzu Hombre

I have a leak in my clutch cylinder that holds break fluid to assist my clutch so I can shift my gears. If it gets low then I have to refill it and pump my clutch and make sure it is topped off so I can drive my truck. Once I do that and start driving and shifting it is fine. But now every time I go do drive my truck I have to do this. Where could I be leaking fluids? I can not see it up top by where I fill the container. Could it be a leak in the line or tubing? please help me. Thank you.


Leak in my clutch cylinder

There is definitely a leak if you keep having to add fluid each day. There is no leak if you only had to add fluid the one time. Having to pump it up is from air being in the system. Bleeding the system of air would correct the issue of having to pump the clutch. If you do conclude you have a leak you will need to repair it. Follow the hose from where you fill the fluid downward to see if it is wet or dripping. Then look lower toward the underside of the transmission. The slave cylinder is leaking if the hose looks and feels dry and you see fluid dripping from underneath the transmission. Therefore I have looked up the exact fit parts for your 1998 Isuzu Hombre and double checked to make sure they would fit.

 

1998 Isuzu Hombre Clutch Hose

Shop Automotive

1998 Isuzu Hombre Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder

Shop Automotive

Clutch system bleeding

NOTE: Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.

  • Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications
  • Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw
  • Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal
  • Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system
  • Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder
    NOTE: Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.
  • Test the clutch for proper operation.