Car overheated i let cool down car wouldnt start needed a jump start. Wouldnt start after that.what could it be?
I have taken the time to develop a diagnostic chart just for this issue. Most common reason would be the BATTERY.
When I start car after a cold night only the dash lights, wipers , wont work until I place in gear. Then everything comes on
Sounds electrical. This will require some hands on diagnosis to determine the exact issue that is causing the problem. My guess would be a loose or corroded connection.
I just bought a mazda b4000 and the guy told me that I had to put in neutral to put on 4×4 and then put it in reverse when the light comes on but I’ve put it on drive to turn the 4×4 button (yeah I’m dumb😅) now the light blinks 6 times and then stops for 2-3 minutes even if the button is on 2 high and I cannot hear the transfer case motor… I have need help… it’s tough in Canadian winters on 2wd
Perform On Board Diagnostics with scan tool to retrieve DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
Source: MAZDA MOTORS CORP
Flashing lights usually means its stuck between 2 wheel high and 4 wheel high.
You can pull the shift motor and turn the **** with pliers. Otherwise cleaning it or replacing it are your options.
sometimes you can tap on the motor and it may go in 4 wheel drive
For my 84 f-150 351cleveland big block with a 4 barrel edlebrock carb with raised edlebrock manifold and heads. can’t find this part anywhere. It is a pigtail that converts a 3 wire distributor to a 4wire electric Ignition module. 3 prong female end to a 4 prong male end on the module. no-one can figure out what I’m talking about or find the part.
In 1984 Ford used the Duraspark II system. This refers to the Duraspark II control module with a BLUE strain relief bushing, one 4-pin connector, and one 2-pin connector. Another version of the system has an additional 3-pin wiring connector, and two YELLOW strain relief bushing’s. Source: Handyman Dan
Automatic transmission won’t go into gear from full stop when cold. If I manually shift it isn’t an issue. Not original owner. Don’t know it’s history before I owned it.
My opinion without looking at it would be an internal issue if the fluid level is full and looks clean. If the fluid looks dirty or dark, a rebuild is in your future.
Some sound opinions found on the net:
sounds to me like when it’s cold the fluid is thicker of course and is not pumping thru as it should. Might want to at least clean the filter, maybe it’s clogged up and won’t let fluid thru until it gets warmed up or something? Source: Swims350
This is a classic symptom of internal hydraulic leakage inside the transmission. As a transmission gets older, the various seals inside of it that keep fluid confined in specific channels tend to become hardened and no longer pliable enough to seal tightly against the shafts, servos, and other components that they are attached to. Often, in warmer weather they may seal enough to allow the transmission to operate somewhat normally. But when colder weather comes this tends to cause them to shrink more and become less pliable because of the lower temperature. After the engine runs while and the transmission fluid warms up, the internal seals and O-rings expand slightly and become slightly more able to do their job.
The repair needed is a transmission rebuild: removing the transmission from the vehicle, disassembling it completely, and installing all new seals, O-rings, and gaskets. Of course this is pretty expensive because of the amount of labor involved….
As a temporary measure, what often helps is to take the vehicle in to a shop to have the transmission flushed; this involves using a machine to push all of the old worn out transmission fluid out and replace it with new fluid. Transmission fluid contains additives that help to keep seals soft and pliable, so replacing the old worn fluid often helps somewhat. Also, adding one of the various transmission stop-leak or seal conditioner products available at any auto parts store to the fluid sometimes is beneficial. These products work by softening rubber components and causing them to swell up slightly; this improves sealing ability, especially when cold. Keep in mind though that this is not a fix; it only buys some time until transmission overhaul is needed. Source: Auto Mechanic: Steve
Rear bumper. What all is involved in removing the rear bumper??? I have a standard bumper but will be putting a step bumper on it. Is there a different mounting bracket for the Step Bumper or is everything the same???
Everything should be the same. Remove four nuts, install the replacement bumper and tighten the nuts.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
◦To install, tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb-ft).
ABS light keeps coming on and then off
Generally speaking this has to do with the wheel speed sensors going out. They are mounted inside the wheel hub bearings.
View of the front speed sensor mounting screw (1), hub and bearing (2), routing clip (3) and front wheel speed sensor (4)
A visual inspection must always be performed to confirm the presence of aftermarket components, potential collision damage, or areas of concern.
The ABS module is self monitoring. The module will carry out a preliminary electrical inspection of the hydraulic pump motor by turning the pump ON for approximately 1/2 second either when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position and the brake pedal is not pressed or when the vehicle is in motion and at vehicle speeds above 12 mph. The ABS module will also carry out a wheel speed sensor self-test by sending a reference voltage to all of the wheel speed sensors through their circuitry when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, with or without brake pedal application. If a fault is detected in the pump or wheel speed sensors, the ABS module will shut down and disable the anti-lock system. Normal power assisted braking, however, remains.
Intermittent start in Park. Sometimes need o shift to Drive, then back to Park, then try to start. EBS and ESC lights come on for aperiod of time and then off again.
My guess would be that the starter is causing the issue. Intermittent issues are difficult to diagnose but not impossible. The diagnosis and testing can only be performed when the issue is present. So when it won’t start.
Trying to get power to the Rear View Mirror, so auto dim will work. Have TWO mirrors but neither one works. Compass and out side temp does. Please assist in finding a fuse or relay that is not listed or shown.
Happy to assist you. Lets look at the wiring diagram of the auto-dimming interior mirror. We find three fuses and two relays in the works.
Back story/what we have done so far. It is a 2003 Buick Lesabre with 102k miles.
Car started “overheating” on us, no engine light. Temp gauge would go from reading halfway to all the way in the red within 1 second. Sometimes it would bounce back down right away, sometimes you’d have to turn off car and restart for gauge to normalize. Verified with infrared thermometer that car was not actually overheating, temp was always 190-200. After doing this for 3 or 4 times, engine light came on and car threw itself into limp mode would not go past 3rd gear. Parked the car until coolant temp sensor and thermostat were both changed. Since then been driving the car around for about a month with no temp issues. Temp stays constant at 194. However engine light will not go away, still showing code for coolant temp sensor. Will try to clear code manually and see if if comes back on.
However a new issue has arisen and I am not sure if it’s related. 3 times now when trying to start car after quick errand, car won’t start unless I give her a lil gas. This is not a problem in the morning and not all the time. Only after for example running into the store for about 5 min and coming back out to restart car. If I am gone for longer periods of time like in the store for 30-45 there is no problem starting. Only after turning it off then trying to restart within a few min. After I get it started it runs fine. Temp still ok, no idle issues. Threw some injector cleaner in and will be replacing fuel filter soon. Any thoughts? Are these two issues related?
I do not think the two issues are related. The second issue sounds like a idle air control valve sticking. This issue doesn’t throw a code. But from how you explained being able to press the accelerator pedal a little allows it to start tells me the story. Cleaning and or replacing the IAC Valve should take care of that issue.