2005 Chrysler 300C 5.7L Hemi

Hello, I have no brake lights either side-all other lights work(front/rear). I wonder if car has been tampered with. Inside fuse panel in trunk- was no fuse at all in brake lamp5.7L Cavity 15! I installed new 20 amp yellow in 15 and checked brake lamp red 10 amp in Cavity 19-not broken.Still no lights. Haven’t replaced bulbs yet(3057) for brake lights.It is not typical for both sides brake light bulbs to fail at same time is it? Also,  There are black switches/relays in Cavities 24,45,46.These Cavities aren’t even listed in owners manual. I touched top of them, they were warm. I have no brake lights at rear at all-  also lock/unlock when activated on ignition key-only backup lights work used to be all lights flashed


4 thoughts on “2005 Chrysler 300C 5.7L Hemi”

  1. no the last work was to replace battery in trunk months ago. I dont think I have been driving long with no brake lights. I charged battery using red terminal in front and engine bolt( I left tunk lid cracked open overnight). thats the only incidents with my car,except an oil/filter change done a couple of days ago.

    Added: 10-15-2014
    Hello, I have no brake lights-including center lamp. I replaced the stop lamp inhibit relay-no change. I am considering just changing the brake light switch under the foot pedal. The reason is more probable that ABS Module,or wiring,Do you think switch is best next? There has been no car work lately. I did have to put charger on my car to charge battery(trunk lid left cracked open overnight) I put charger on the red terminal next to front fuse panel and ground on bolt near engine. I have opened front and rear fuse panel nothing appears wrong.

  2. Wondering if the “Third brake light” is working, this would let you know your brake switch and such is working. And would most likely indicate bad bulbs.

    Brake lamp cavity #15 is for trailer lighting. Cavity 19 is the one for rear brake lights.

    Looks like the power runs from that fuse(cavity 19) to the brake switch(on side of foot pedal arm) and runs to a Stop Lamp Relay and from there to the light bulbs. So if you check for power at the bulbs and find none when someone presses the brake pedal, work backwards until you find the issue.

  3. The next thing I would do before buying anything would be to check for power at the bulbs and if you find none when someone presses the brake pedal, work backwards until you find the issue using a multi-meter to see exactly where the issue is.

    So, do I think the switch next?…I would test the switch and or power going to and from it before I would spend money and replace it.

Comments are closed.