My Dakota is a standard shift. When you try to start the truck in 1st gear it jumps forward then nothing. I have bought a slave cylinder and tried to bleed it. But I wasn’t getting any pressure in the pedal so I bought a clutch master cylinder. I bleed the cylinders again got a whole bunch of air because where they were new. But I was still having the same issue. So I took the slave cylinder off and pumped it with my hand. It got real stiff so I put it back in then the clutch had a lot of pressure but it still jumped when I tried to start it.
So I tried to bleed it again. When I bled it all the pressure was lost in the pedal. After a few minutes it came back so I tried to start it again still it jumped forward. Ive been dealing with this process for about 8 days now. I had an inspection hole cut into the transmission everything is in their right place. I’m not sure what else too try.
This is a common issue when dealing with a failed slave cylinder. It is almost impossible to get the air out of the system. This is why the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are replaced as an assembly. The Auto Parts stores desk jockeys won’t tell you this when they sell you the part separate. I have found ordering the assembly from a dealership and installing it was the ONLY way to get a pedal.
Clutch Master Cylinder
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder is mounted on the firewall and is fed fluid via gravity from a remote reservoir. The master cylinder mounting nuts are inside the cab. The torque for the nuts is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). Torque for the reservoir nuts is 95 inch lbs. (10 Nm). The slave cylinder is mounted on a bracket on the left side of the transmission. Mounting nut torque is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). The clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines are serviced as an assembly only. The linkage components cannot be overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and connecting lines are filled and factory sealed.
The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on the clutch housing flange
Replace Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the vehicle and support safely.
- Remove the nuts attaching the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
- Remove the slave cylinder and clip from the housing.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Remove the locating clip from the clutch master cylinder mounting bracket.
- Remove the retaining ring, flat washer and wave washer that attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal. Slide the pushrod off of the pedal pin. Inspect the bushing on the pedal pin and replace if it is excessively worn.
- Verify that the cap on the clutch master cylinder reservoir is tight so fluid will not spill during removal.
- Remove the screws attaching the reservoir and bracket, if equipped, to the dash panel and remove the reservoir.
- Pull the clutch master cylinder rubber seal from the dash panel.
- Rotate the clutch master cylinder counterclockwise 45°to unlock it. Remove the cylinder from the dash panel.
- Remove the clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines from the vehicle.
- Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Operate the clutch pedal a few times to verify proper system operation. The system will self-bleed any air in and vent through the reservoir. Connect the negative battery cable and road test the vehicle.