I have a clanking noise in my rear suspension when driving over a bump. I have had the rear shocks replaced and the brakes, but it did not help. It does not do it if you have your foot on the brakes while driving over a bump.
Could be sway bar links worn or loose shocks. I have seen where the shock mount bolts are worn down and cause free play in the New shock bushing.
The computer says its the fuel pump but the pump is working. The battery is charged and it doesn’t even crank. All the lights turn on my no sound except for the fuel pump working fine. Do you know what it could be? Im at a loss…
We have developed a step by step diagnostic chart for no start situations like yours.
First I am not sure, if its a CVT or traditional automatic transmission ? I am pretty much suspecting its the traditional one. It has tiny yellow plastic dipstick between transmission & radiator, more easily accessible from underneath the car.
Second, any guide on dropping the pan & replacing/servicing the transmission filter. I see its not horizontal, it vertically lying between transmission & radiator.
It is a CVT – Continuously Variable Transmission. Here is the procedure for replacing the transmission fluid and filter.
I am replacing the fuel pump on my sable and wanted to install a maintenance hatch under the back seat. On examination, I noticed fuel lines running in that area, if I accidentally nicked one of those with the grinder is that likely to explode, I am working outside.
Will gasoline explode
No. Gasoline liquid will not explode, however gasoline fumes will. And if there is fuel pressure in the lines the fuel will spray all over and will catch fire.
gasoline combined with air will explode, gasoline won’t burn without air the fumes mixed with air will explode but the gasoline will burn.
I’m trying to replace my fuel filter and I can’t find it. I have looked along the frame on the driver side where the fuel line is, but there is nothing there. Did they make some models with the filter in the tank???
The inline filter is mounted on the same bracket as the fuel supply pump. It is on the frame rail under passenger side of the vehicle, in front of the fuel tank.
Fuel Filter Replacement
The fuel filter is of a one-piece construction which cannot be cleaned. If it becomes clogged, it must be removed and replaced. When replacing the fuel filter use the filter specified for the engine being serviced.
The inline filter is mounted on the same bracket as the fuel supply pump. It is on the frame rail under passenger side of the vehicle, in front of the fuel tank. To replace the filter:
Fig. 4: Whenever you see a warning label, read it
Fuel supply lines on fuel injected vehicles will remain pressurized for some time after the engine is shut off. Fuel pressure must be relieved before servicing the fuel system.
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Relieve the fuel system pressure as follows: A.Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve any pressure in the fuel tank.
B.Remove the cap from the Schrader valve located on the fuel injection supply manifold in the engine compartment.
C.Attach fuel pressure gauge T80L–9974–A or equivalent, to the Schrader valve and drain the fuel through the drain tube into a suitable container.
D.After the fuel system pressure is relieved, remove the fuel pressure gauge and install the cap on the Schrader valve.
3.Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
4.Disconnect the fittings from both ends of the fuel filter as follows: A.Inspect the visible portion of the fitting for dirt accumulation. If more than a light coating of dust is present, clean the fitting before disassembly.
B.Some adhesion between the seals in the fitting and the filter will occur with time. To separate, twist the fitting on the filter, then push and pull the fitting until it moves freely on the filter.
C.Remove the hairpin clip from the fitting by first bending and breaking the shipping tab. Next, spread the 2 clip legs by hand about 1 ⁄ 8 in. (3.1mm) each to disengage the body, then push the legs into the fitting. Lightly pull the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the filter and fitting.
Do not use hand tools to complete this operation. Damage to the fittings may result.
D.Grasp the fitting and pull in an axial direction to remove the fitting from the filter. Be careful on 90°elbow connectors, as excessive side loading could break the connector body.
E.After disassembly, inspect the inside of the fitting for any internal parts such as O-rings and/or spacers that may have been dislodged from the fitting. Replace any damaged connector(s).
Fig. 5: Carefully remove the hairpin clip
Fig. 6: With a rag under the hose to catch any gasoline spillage, slowly separate the line from the filter
Filter retainer bolts
5.If equipped, remove the filter retainer bolts and remove the filter and retainer from the mounting bracket. Remove the filter from the retainer. Note that the direction of the flow arrow on the fuel filter. Remove the rubber insulator rings, if installed. Inspect the rings for cracks or wear, and replace if needed.
Fig. 7: Remove the hardware securing the filter to the housing
Fig. 8: Lower the filter assembly, then separate the pieces
6.Install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the proper direction as before, then tighten the filter retaining clamp(s).
7.If the original filter was equipped with rubber insulator rings, install the rubber insulator rings on the new filter. Install the filter into the retainer with the flow arrow pointing in the correct direction. Install the retainer on the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 27–44 inch lbs. (3–5 Nm).
8.Connect the fittings at both ends of the fuel filter as follows: A.Install a new connector if damage was found. Insert a new clip into any 2 adjacent openings with the triangular portion pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip until the legs of the clip are locked on the outside of the body. Piloting with an index finger is necessary.
Wipe the filter end
B.Before installing the fitting on the filter, wipe the filter end with a clean cloth. Inspect the inside of the fitting to make sure it is free of dirt and/or obstructions.
C.Apply a light coating of engine oil to the filter end. Align the fitting and filter axially and push the fitting onto the filter end. When the fitting is engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fitting to make sure it is fully engaged.
9.Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
10.Lower the vehicle.
I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar, I have stock headlights and bulbs. I want to put HID lights in the interior and exterior of the car. Can I just switch out the light bulbs or do I have to install a conversion kit?
You will need the conversion kit.
What is HID?
HID, or High-Intensity Discharge, is a technology that utilizes xenon gas with an electrical arc to produce brighter, more efficient headlight bulbs. HID lights are significantly brighter than halogen. Depending on the temperature (color), brightness can increased by as much as 3x the lumen output of a halogen headlight bulb. Converting to HID is as simple as purchasing a complete HID kit for your vehicle or if you already know your vehicles bulb size you can purchase a kit for that size.
Engine cruising along, Trac. Control light starts flashing, engine bogs down loosing power. Also can be cold start, take off, Trac. Control light starts flashing, engine bogs down, no power. It is a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L GS.
Traction Control Light Flashing
Something you may want to try in the meantime. Turn the traction control off before you start driving and see if it keeps the traction control light flashing from occurring.
My Research came upon this:
I have run into the coils on the spark plugs causing that very concern. You will need to have a coil-on-plug stress test done. And the Ford dealership has the proper tools to perform this test. The coils when the start to fail, will cause what we refer to as a RF frequency that will cause that very concern. I also had this happen to my fathers 2000 Grand Marquis. I discovered this after replacing the ABS module at the cost of $250.00. I found 4 bad coils that would cause the ABS and Traction Control light to come on the vehicle would stall and/or run rough on acceleration at 30-50 mph. Have some one do this test and this will fix your problem. Do not replace all 8 coils, unless you have the money. Only replace the ones that fail during the stress test.
I think I have a blown spark plug, I heard a pop then my engine got loud, the noise and a strong air flow is blowing up from over the spark plugs area on the passenger side. Do I have a blown spark plug?
It sure sounds like you do have a blown plug. Simply replacing the spark plug should take care of the issue if just the porcelain part came out. Otherwise there may be damage to the threads if the entire plug blew out.