Dec 092018
 

2010 Chevy Suburban

Driver side seat will not heat. Is there a quick way to find out what the root of the problem is whether it be in the switch, a fuse/relay, or the heating element itself? I had a local mechanic tell me once I’d be better off finding a new seat in a junk yard than to try to buy parts to fix it. Thought I’d get a second opinion.

When you press the button on the door to activate the heater, the red light does come on but does not heat. The AC part of the seat cooler does work, but the heater part does not. Thanks for your help.



Generally there is a Body Code that will be stored. A Dealership or well equipped mechanic shop should have a scan tool that can pull the codes that will help guide you to the root of the problem without guessing.  No easier way than that.

Example Codes for heated seat malfunction:

Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2345-4B  Seat Heater Elements Current Sensing Calibration Out of Range
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-04  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Open
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-0A  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Rate of Change Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-0B  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Current Above Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-0C  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Current Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-0D  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Resistance Above Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-0E  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Resistance Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2425-1F  Left Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Intermittent
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-04  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Open
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-0A  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Rate of Change Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-0B  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Current Above Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-0C  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Current Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-0D  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Resistance Above Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-0E  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Resistance Below Threshold
Diagnostic Trouble Codes   B2430-1F  Right Seat Heater Cushion Circuit Intermittent
Dec 092018
 

Chevy Suburban

 

I have a front left axle to replace. Do I really need to remove the coil over strut and sway bar end link to do this?


Not according to the manual.

CV AXLE SHAFT, Replace

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove drive axle center cap, if equipped.
4. Insert a drift or large screwdriver through brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent drive axle wheel drive shaft from turning.
5. Remove nut and washer from hub. Do not reuse nut. A new nut must be used when installing wheel drive shaft.
6. Using axle remover tool No. J 45859 or equivalent, press wheel drive shaft from hub.
7. Remove bolts securing wheel drive shaft inboard flange to output shaft flange.
8. Remove drift from rotor.
9. Remove stabilizer shaft link from lower control arm.
10. Wrap shop towels around both inner and outer wheel drive shaft boots in order to avoid damage to boots during removal.
11. Pull wheel drive shaft through lower control arm opening.
12. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Torque inboard flange bolts to 58 ft. lbs.
b. Torque hub nut to 177 ft. lbs.
c. Torque wheel lug nuts to 140 ft. lbs.
d. Torque stabilizer shaft link nuts to 17 ft. lbs.
Dec 092018
 

J2000 eep Grand Cherokee

I was given a jeep without an ignition or key. I bought a new Dorman ignition with key. How do I code it without original key and ignition?


You can use any dodge key and code it to match or take your VIN# to the dealership to get an original cut key.

Model Year Model Year Skill Code Factory Time Labor Time
IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER, R&R
 Grand Cherokee ……………………. 1999-04 B 0.4 0.5
Additional Labor
Model Year Factory Time Labor Time
 To Recode Lock Cylinder,
  Add …………………………….. 1999-04 0.3
Dec 092018
 

2006 GMC Envoy

Did the 2006 GMC Envoy XL-SLT ever come with Tow Hooks either front or rear? I cant get a positive answer from the local GMC Dealer. My almost former Chevy Trailblazer LT model had them. The Envoy has the Towing pkg but no towing hooks of which I’m surprised>
PeterK


Envoy did not come with factory tow hooks….

Envoy is the “Luxury* edition

Trailblazer is the more “sport” edition

That’s the reason behind Envoy’s not getting factory tow hooks, even the Denali did not have them.

I know, as I asked every place I went when shopping around for my Envoy, they never had that option available. I was told that if I wanted tow hooks, I’d have to buy the Trailblazer.

Source: Voymom@gmtnation.com

Starter just clicks once, 1992 Chevy C-1500 w/t pickup truck

 Auto Repair Questions, Chevy  Comments Off on Starter just clicks once, 1992 Chevy C-1500 w/t pickup truck
Dec 032018
 

Chevy truck

Starter just clicks once

Ok, I’ve had this starting problem for a long time. When I turn the key it just clicks once and nothing. I have changed the starter, the alternator. the ignition, because it would turn with out a key (which lead to it being stolen about 6 months ago, the ignition switch the dimmer switch(high beam, low beam switch) because it was not working any more, the turn signal switch, tried running a wire (purple wire) with the correct gauge straight from the battery to the solenoid and that worked, once. When I changed the starter, that worked once as well. I also got a new battery. What else could it be? Oh, I changed all the fuses too. I also replaced the battery cables. added 2 grounds as there was only 1 going to the frame, so I added 1 to the engine and 1 to the body.

This just started one day I was driving turned it off and then the click thing, what’s weird is a guy jumped me with good cables and it started, that’s when I figured the battery was bad and replaced it. Started once then back to click, replaced starter worked once, back to click. Had the old starter tested, it was fine. Also when I turned the key to on, the speedometer would jump to 50-90MPH before turning it to start. I even tried not hooking up the small wire going to the starter and jumped straight from the battery, click. Do I need a starter shim? It didn’t have one before. What is the other terminal for on the starter? One says S and the other B, I think.


One hard click is a starter(solenoid) or connection problem. Several clicks(click, click, click…) is a battery problem. If you are installing a remanufactured starter from like a1 cardone, toss it. Get a NEW starter.  the starter may test OK, but it obviously isn’t.  The “S” terminal is how the ignition switch activates the starter solenoid. It is working or you wouldn’t hear the click.  As this is a Chevy, one thing to look at would be the cables and cable connections at the starter to make sure they are not touching anything it shouldn’t or rubbed through at the block.

The most common reason for 1 click with all good connections, is the STARTER.

Dec 022018
 

 Dodge Grand Caravan

OK, so I’m away deployed and my wife took her 2010 caravan in to replace all shocks and coils. After that was complete she noticed that there was a banging noise while she is driving coming from the rear driver side. She took it back to the shop and was told they couldn’t find anything. As she told this to me I advised her to take it back. So they looked again and found a broken bolt on the plate that bolts to the frame. They tried to get it out but couldn’t so they welded it. As soon as she got it back she noticed the noise is still there. I’m thinking it’s the shock is defective from factory but the shop says it can’t be. What are your thoughts. Thanks


First, Thank you for Serving!

If the noise was not there before you took the car in and now there is a noise. Keep taking it back until they correct the issue. If they are unable to hear the noise, have them ride along so they are addressing the noise that is heard by the driver. It can be frustrating to keep going back to the same shop but that is the only way to keep the cost from going up.

Taking the vehicle to another shop is an option but the original shop is the one that warranties the work they did. This means you would be on the hook for paying the second shop to fix the issue. And once another shop works on it, the warranty may be void.

It would be easy enough for the shop to remove the shock in question and test drive it to see if the noise goes away. Talking the shop into it may be tough, but would be worth a try.

My advice would be to keep taking it back until you are satisfied.