Aug 202019

Toyota Sienna

I purchased this van in 2016 from an older couple and noticed that there was a slight hesitation with the automatic transmission when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. After changing the trans fluid and filter to 100% synthetic it improved.
Lately I’ve noticed there is a greater hesitation when cornering.
Is this solely transmission issues or could there be another problem, such as the drive shaft bearing or joint?

Most likely just transmission related since you did see a change in the transmission function when you changed the fluid and now it is showing similar signs. The best approach would be to see if there are any transmission codes stored in the computer that may indicate otherwise. Possibly a failing wheel speed sensor, etc.

Aug 192019

 VW Jetta

I’ve got a water pump that needs replaced…can it be done by myself or is it best to take it to a mechanic?

According to the Labor Time Guide this is a 6 hour long procedure for an experienced mechanic. Noting that and the fact that you asked in the first place, Yes, take it to a mechanic. This is probably not the project you want to start learning on. Also the water pump is driven by the timing belt.

How to replace the water pump 2015 VW Jetta 1.8

Coolant Pump, Removing and Installing
  • Drip Tray VAG1306 or Shop Crane – Drip Tray VAS6208
  • Torque Wrench 1331 5-50Nm VAG1331
  • Hose Clip Pliers

This procedure contains mandatory replaceable parts.

Mandatory Replacement Parts

  1. O-ring – Coolant Pump to Cylinder Block


  • Replace the gaskets and seals.
  • The lower toothed belt guard can remain installed.
  • The toothed belt remains in position on the crankshaft sprocket.
  • Cover the toothed belt with a cloth to protect it from coolant before removing the coolant pump.

►Drain the coolant.

►Remove the ribbed belt.

►Remove the ribbed belt tensioning damper.

►Remove the upper and center toothed belt guards.

►Remove toothed belt from coolant pump toothed belt sprocket.

►Remove the bolt 1 from the rear toothed belt guard 2.


►Remove the bolts 5 for the coolant pump and then remove the coolant pump 4.


Install in reverse order of removal. Pay attention to the following:

►Coat the new O-ring 3 with coolant.

►Insert the coolant pump 4.

Installed position: Sealing plug in housing points downward.

►Tighten the bolts 5.

►Install the bolt 1 for the rear toothed belt guard 2 on the cylinder head.

►Install the toothed belt.

►Install the ribbed belt tensioning element.

►Install the ribbed belt.

►Fill with coolant.

Aug 172019

My Air Conditioning isn’t working right. If I start it when it’s relatively cool outside, like 75 degrees, it’ll blow ice cold. If I then continue to the desert where it’s 105 degrees, it’ll still be blowing ice cold. BUT, when I leave it in the desert for a few hours where it’s 105 and come back and turn it on (when now it’s very hot outside and inside the car), the AC will not blow any cold air. It’ll blow like 98 degree air, not any cooler. As I drive back towards cooler outside temps, then it’ll start to work again. It’s all very strange, not to mention uncomfortable. Any ideas? A couple months ago I had a new condenser installed from damage to the old one. I’ve already tried replacing the relay.

This is common to a failing mode/blend door actuator. The actuator is a tiny electronic device that opens and closes the doors inside the ventilation system. This allows it to switch from hot to cold.

When the vehicle sets, heat and moisture tend to affect these components. And when first put in use after setting they have a harder time functioning properly.

Source Article:

Why is the air conditioning blowing hot? – SOLVED

Aug 152019

My car wont start, all lights work. I’ve had battery and alternator tested, they both were good. I don’t know whats wrong. When I try to cut the car on its silent.

Sorry to hear you are having such trouble. In general, when you turn the ignition key and hear one click it means the starter needs replaced. When you hear multiple clicks(click, click, click, click), it means the battery is dead, weak. When you hear nothing at all it means bad battery, poor connections at the battery or a failed starter.

I would say in worse case scenario the Starter and Battery will need to be replaced. But there is still hope for an easy and money saving cause. Your specific vehicle starting system is equipped with a STARTER RELAY that function between the ignition switch and starter. This would be a the best case scenario as it is less expensive and easy to get to.

The starter relay is located in the battery junction box. Also wouldn’t hurt to confirm the fuse(F10) that supplies power to the STARTER RELAY is good.

2011 Ford Taurus SEL Starting wiring diagram


How to jump across starter relay Video

Aug 132019

 Cadillac Seville

My 2000 Cadillac Seville STS 32v Northstar is in very good condition. It starts and drives well. The driver door controls do not work. All the other door controls work. What are the possible problems? And an estimate to repair?

Could be faulty door controls or faulty wiring. Most common reason would be faulty wiring in the wiring harness at the door jam. In general repairing faulty wiring is charged by the hour for how ever long it takes to locate and repair.

Drivers Front Power Windows Wiring Diagram


Aug 122019

1997 Chevy Blazer

Tried to smog my truck didn’t pass so I did a tune up. Replaced plugs, o2 sensor and was replacing the distributor cap and rotor when I noticed the distributor was broke. So I replaced it. When I got it all back together it ran fine but coded a crankshaft positioning sensor. So I replaced that and it is still coding the crankshaft positioning sensor. I don’t know what to do now.

Chevy Code P0336 – Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance

Chevy Code P0366 Description

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor sends a reference signal to the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) in order to indicate the crankshaft position and the RPM so that the VCM can determine when to pulse the ignition coil, the fuel injectors, and the control ignition timing. This is a type D DTC.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

  • The Crankshaft Position sensor signal is missing for at least 0.5 seconds.
  • Engine cranking and the VCM receives 4 or more Camshaft Position signals without a Crankshaft Position sensor signal.

Action Taken When Code P0336 Sets

The VCM stores the DTC in History if the VCM detects an intermittent problem.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles (the coolant temperature has risen 40°F from the start-up coolant temperature and the engine coolant temperature exceeds 160°F during that same ignition cycle) or the scan tool clearing feature has been used.

Diagnostic Aids

A poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation, or a wire that is broken inside the insulation may cause an intermittent.

Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Check for the following conditions:

  • Backed out terminals
  • Improper mating
  • Broken locks
  • Improperly formed or damaged terminals
  • Poor terminal to wiring connections or
  • Physical damage to the wiring harness

Refer to Intermittent Conditions .

How to Test Crankshaft Sensor Code P0366

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

  1. This step determines if the VCM is receiving the Crankshaft Position sensor pulses.
  1. This step checks the ignition feed circuit to the Crankshaft Position sensor.
  1. This step checks the Crankshaft Position sensor low circuit.
  1. This step checks the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Step Action Value(s) Yes No

Important: Before clearing the DTCs, use the scan tool to record the Freeze Frame and the Failure Records for reference. This data will be lost when the Clear Info function is used.

Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check performed?

Go to Step 2 Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check
2 Does the vehicle start and continue to run? Go to Diagnostic Aids Go to Step 3
  1. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
  2. Connect a test light to ground.
  3. Turn the ignition ON.
  4. Probe the Crankshaft Position sensor ignition feed circuit at the engine side of the CKP sensor harness connector.

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 4 Go to Step 6

Connect the test light between the CKP sensor ignition feed and the CKP sensor Low circuit.

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 5 Go to Step 7
  1. Turn off the ignition.
  2. Install the gray jumpers from the connector Tester Kit J 35616 between the engine harness connector and the CKP sensor ignition feed and ground circuits.
  3. Install a DVM set to the duty cycle position (select the AC volt position then press the Hz button twice to display % duty cycle) between the CKP sensor (3x) signal circuit (sensor side) and the CKP sensor Low circuit.
  4. Crank the engine.

Is the duty cycle within the specified range?

40%-60% Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9

Repair the open or short to ground in the CKP sensor ignition feed circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Engine Electrical.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13

Check the CKP sensor Low circuit for an open.

Was the problem found?

Go to Step 11 Go to Step 12

Check for an open or short to ground in the CKP sensor (3X) signal circuit.

Was a problem found?

Go to Step 11 Go to Step 12
  1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
  2. Inspect the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel for damage replace if necessary (Refer to Engine Mechanical).

Is the reluctor wheel damaged?

Go to Step 13 Go to Step 10

Replace the CKP sensor. Refer to Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Replacement .

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13

Repair as necessary.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13

Replace the VCM.


Important: If the VCM is faulty, reprogram the VCM. Refer to VCM Replacement/Programming .

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13
  1. Using the scan tool, select DTC, Clear Info.
  2. Start engine and idle at normal operating temperature.
  3. Select DTC Specific, then enter the DTC number which was set.
  4. Operate vehicle within the conditions for setting this DTC as specified in the supporting text.

Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic ran and passed?

Go to Step 14 Go to Step 2

Using the scan tool, select Capture Info and Review Info.

Are any DTCs displayed that have not been diagnosed?

Go to the applicable DTC table System OK
Aug 122019

Honda Civic

My car was bought new in 2010. We have been out of the country for a year and now we are back to US to a new state. As per the state rules we took our car for the emissions. But even after driving for 150 miles it still fails the test. My car needs to pass the emissions in order to get the new registration done. please advice.

Post the year of the vehicle and the computer codes that are causing it to fail when you get a chance and we can dig into the causes.

In the meantime hear is a cheat sheet on how to pass the emissions test.

Aug 122019

Hello, I have been searching for checklist for used cars, if some one can help what i know and have checked so far is


2. Transmission

3. Engine

4. Car Is Running Smoothly

as i dont have technical knowledge so can you please share some more things to be checked before buying a used car

Here it is – Used Car Buying Guide

Aug 122019

Buick Enclave

I am replacing the transmission and I have it in to within 1 1/4″ and it won’t go any further. I’ve turned the u-joint and the flywheel and it won’t go in. I have 4 bolts in and can’t pull it in anymore.

Couple of reasons for this:

  • Pilot bearing, if equipped, is not lined up right
  • The Torque converter is not properly seated all the way.
  • Transmission is not lined up and binding. (WIGGLE IT)

The most common reason is the torque converter not being installed correctly. The converter needs to be push in, then twisted and push in one more notch. So you would hear a cluck when you first slide the torque converter in. While continuing to apply pressure spin the converter till it clucks once more.

A quick way to make sure is to note that the converter sets far back inside the bell housing once inserted.

Aug 122019

Suzuki Swift

I have a friend who lives in Hungary. She drives a Suzuki Swift. When she took it in for servicing she was told that her ABS system was not working. They told her that the ABS controller pump was not working.

I understand this, but the reason the service people gave was that she never depressed her brake pedal far enough to engage the system. Because of this (they said) the ABS system was “stuck”. They replaced the pump and the brake fluid (and did a couple of other minor repairs). Is this possible? Can the ABS controller pump become jammed because she never depressed the brake pedal far enough to engage the system?

I am not saying that this could not happen. I have just never heard of this happening before. Does this explanation seem plausible?

It would be quite possible for the ABS Controller pump to be faulty if the ABS light was on before taking it in for service work. The first indication of there being an issue with the ABS system is the ABS light being illuminated on the dash.

As for the reason, “never depressed the brake pedal far enough to engage the system” being the cause of the controller to fail, I don’t think so!