I have a 1997 Ford Taurus GL. Recently, Car dies randomly….so far when just at low speeds & when turning steering wheel to left just a little bit. In panic, even with the car in drive, I turn the key and it starts again. What could that be?
I took it to the mechanic & no OBD codes were found.
Alternator is good & Battery is brand new with clean tight connections. All ground cables going from engine to battery have been cleaned.
Mass-air flow sensor contacts have been cleaned.
To check next,
fuel pressure (at idle it should be around 30-35PSI. On a light to moderate throttle, it will dip slightly to 25-30 PSI.)
Check Cam shaft resistance sensor.
check fuel pump
bad fuel filter?
bad distributor cap?
dirty air filter?
dirty catalytic converter?
Fuel pressure should increase on moderate throttle. Wouldn’t hurt to replace fuel filter and recheck fuel pressure readings. The Auto Repair Manual shows the fuel pressure should be 35 – 45 PSI. So I’m thinking the fuel pressure regulator is at fault.
Fuel Pressure Specifications – Chilton Manual
Key On Engine Off
Check the vacuum hose leading connected to the fuel pressure regulator first. Replace if cracked or brittle and test. If the hose is good, replace the fuel pressure regulator and test. Still not enough pressure, replace the fuel pump.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
If removing fuel pressure regulator (9C968) with fuel injection supply manifold (9D280) installed in vehicle, perform Fuel Charging System Pre-Service Procedure and Fuel Pressure Relief procedure as described.
Disconnect vacuum hose at fuel pressure regulator.
Remove the power steering hose bracket.
Remove fuel pressure regulator from fuel injection supply manifold and discard used sealing O-rings and face seal.
Install fuel pressure regulator into fuel injection supply manifold using new sealing gaskets, O-rings and face seals. Tighten fuel pressure regulator to 25-34 Nm (19-25 lb-ft).
This issue im going to describe is VERY dileberate when it happens….at speeds over 30mph the car will almost seem to glide right with a feel of floating almost like the ass end is riding high and all the suspension has been released its almost is like a hinge feeling i feel like it has to be something with the gyroscope or stability control or something the action is way to dramatic than that of bad busings or falied sway bar, is it not? 110,000k original suspension parts the rest of the vehical has been taken care of at every turn by BMW Seattle and just went out of full warrenty
Without looking at it my thoughts would be alignment or tire issue. A busted belt may not be clearly visible but would cause this issue. A quick affordable test would be to rotate both front tires to the back and move the back tires to the front. Then test drive and see if any difference can be noticed.
Dynamic Stability Control
The Brakes Electronic Stability Control uses two steering wheel angle sensors and wheel speed sensors to control braking. I do not think that would cause the issue you are having.
On slippery surfaces or during aggressive maneuvers, if the vehicle understeers severely, the computer will actuate the brakes on the inside rear wheel, just hard enough and just long enough to correct the steering behavior. When the vehicle oversteers severely, the system will brake the outside front wheel instead.
NOTE* When Servicing this system, OEM may require the angle sensors be calibrated to the vehicle thrustline.
My 2005 Dodge Stratus SXT with a 2.4L engine died on the highway running 65 70 miles an hour over just over a week ago. And after I pulled spark plugs, the spark plug threads had a lot of oil on them. 3 weeks prior to that I had what I thought was overheating radiator. I blow back in the reserve tank about a quart of water resolve that issue and it sounds like it is sucking through a sponge. Now my battery is dead.
Follow the steps in the no start diagnostics chart that is available for free right here on this site.
Finding oil on the spark plug threads would just be an indication of a leaking gasket. Most likely the valve cover gasket is at fault. This would not cause the engine to die unless you ran it completely out of oil.
The battery being dead could be from age or it not being charged from a faulty alternator. You may charge it fully and then test it with a battery load tester. In most cases a battery will not last longer than 4 years. Jump starting the battery will shorten its life cycle as well.
Have warning light Readout says service stabilatrac ?
First of all, you will find this issue has been addressed in the below articles. Secondly, the most common failure part that would cause this issue is the Steering Position Sensor. The video below shows how to replace it. Lastly, I have found additional information in the form of a TSB and added it below.
I noticed that I can shift all my gears in my car except go into park. I took off the clip and used a pen to wiggle it and get it to go so i could take my key out, but i had to wrestle with it. I tried turning the car on and off, checking the button, everything i could think of while sitting and messing with it, but it wont shift effortless all of a sudden. It was fine yesterday, but today when I drove to campus it stopped.
The Shifter cable may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Shift Cable Adjustment for 2009 – 2013 Honda Fit
Shift Cable Adjustment
Remove the center console.
Shift the transmission to N.
Remove the nut securing the shift cable end.
Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the corner (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift lever bracket base (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F).
Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back two steps so that the shift position is in N. Do not hold the shift cable guide (B) to adjust the shift cable.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the N indicator comes on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin (A) through the positioning holes (B) on the shift lever bracket base and into the positioning hole on the shift lever. Use only the 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin.
Check that the shift lever is secured in N.
Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) to place the corner (C) on the holder opposite the opening (D) in the shift lever bracket base (E). Align the holder with the opening in the bracket, then slide the holder into the bracket. Install the shift cable end (F) over the mounting stud (G) by aligning its square hole with the square fitting (H) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder a quarter turn until the holder stops to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (I).
Make sure that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
If the shift cable end is out of position with the mounting stud, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket, then reinstall the cable end over the mounting stud before reinstalling the shift cable to the shift cable bracket. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud with the shift cable install on the shift cable bracket.
If the shift cable end does not ride at the bottom of the mounting stud, rotate the stud to align the square fitting with the hole.
Secure the shift cable end with the nut (A).
Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin (B) that was installed to hold the shift lever.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
Shift to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check that the shift lever releases, and also check that the shift lever locks when it is shifted back into P.
5 Deg BTDC setting at idle (about 650 – 850 rpm) with vacuum hose to distributor plugged.
When it is hooked up again should run at about 10-12 deg. BTDC
Also make sure that the weights inside the distributor are working freely. And that vacuum canister on side of distributor is working OK. These are prone to split diaphragms on these. You will go nuts trying to tune it.
On any engine I am looking to get the top performance out of, I advance the distributor until the engine pings and then back it off just a bit. I do this at 3,000 rpm. The higher the octane the more advanced you will be able to obtain.
Hello, I changed my power steering and pump in July this year and it was working fine Until the fluid Start turning milky and the steering is now hard to turn even when the pump is still working. Also the fluid shorts over time and there is no visible leakage. Please what could be the issue??
The power steering fluid is looking milky because you have air or moisture getting into the system. Most likely you have air getting into the system. The only way for the fluid level to get lower overtime would be from a leak. You may have a leaking hose or connection, but a leak somewhere.
The leak will need to be repaired before the system be bled of air and returned to normal operation.
Your hard steering may be from a warn out component in the steering system. This could be a worn out ball joint, etc. A quick test would be to jack up the front end and see if turning the wheel is easier or still hard. Place the jacks in such a way that the wheel do not hang when testing.
I did a head gasket job, I had trouble with the timing belt and got the crankshaft ahead of the camshaft two or three teeth and cranked it a few times before I found it, I realigned the belt and wont start , should I be worried about some bent valves? or am I possibly still safe as I’m sure its an interference engine. It is a 1997 Honda Civic 1.6L SOHC.
Yes, you should be worried about bent valves.
You should perform a compression test on each cylinder since you know for certain that the timing belt is set correctly now. This will let you know if you have a bent valve.
The compression should be similar for each cylinder. If one is considerably less, like 20 psi or even 0 psi, you have an issue.
Timing Belt Replacement
This engine is classified as an Interference engine. If the timing belt breaks or jumps timing, a piston may contact an open valve. Piston to valve contact may cause damage to the valve, piston and other engine components. In some cases valve to valve contact may be experienced when the timing belt breaks or jumps timing. To avoid belt breakage, replace the timing belt as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer timing belt replacement interval.
With the timing belt removed, avoid turning the camshaft or crankshaft. If movement is required, exercise extreme caution to avoid valve damage caused by piston contact.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the engine compartment lower splash shield.
3. Loosen the power steering pump lock and mounting bolts, then remove the power steering belt.
4. Remove the power steering pump mounting and lock bolts, then position the pump aside with the hoses attached.
5. Loosen the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the drive belt.
6. Loosen the alternator adjuster lock bolt, then remove the alternator drive belt.
7. Remove the engine oil dipstick.
8. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
9. Remove the drive belt idler pulley and bracket.
10. Support the engine by positioning a suitable jack and wooden block under the engine oil pan.
11. Remove the three upper engine mounting bracket retaining nuts, then remove the bracket.
12. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt, then the crankshaft pulley.
13. Remove the lower timing belt cover and the engine oil dipstick tube. Discard the O-ring.
14. Remove the crankshaft position sensor retaining bolts, then disconnect the electrical connector and remove the sensor.
15. Align the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks.
16. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt 180°.
17. Move the timing belt tensioner away from the timing belt and tighten the retaining bolt to hold the pulley in position.
18. Remove the timing belt.
19. Ensure the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned.
20. Install the new timing belt tightly over the crankshaft sprocket, tensioner pulley, water pump pulley and the camshaft sprocket.
21. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt and allow the timing belt to tension.
22. After the timing belt has tensioned, tighten the tensioner pulley retaining bolt.
23. Install the crankshaft position sensor.
24. Install the timing belt lower and upper covers.
25. Install the crankshaft pulley and torque the attaching bolt to 14 ft. lbs., then tighten bolt an additional 90°. Do not use an impact wrench.
26. Turn the crankshaft pulley approximately 5-6 revolutions counterclockwise to position the timing belt on the sprockets and pulleys.
27. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
28. Position the No. 1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke.
29. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt.
30. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft sprocket timing mark is located approximately three teeth of the from the front cover timing mark.
31. Torque the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt to 33 ft. lbs., using care not disturb the timing belt adjustment.
32. Align the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket timing marks. If the marks are not aligned, the timing belt must be removed and installed once again.
33. Install the engine oil dipstick tube with a new O-ring.
34. Install the upper engine mounting bracket. Torque the attaching nuts to 54 ft. lbs.
35. Remove the jack and wooden block from under the engine oil pan.
36. Install the drive belt idler pulley and bracket.
37. Install the upper timing belt cover, then the engine oil dipstick with a new O-ring.
38. Install the A/C compressor and alternator drive belts. Refer to “Accessory Drive Belt Tension” for proper belt tension.
39. Install the power steering pump.
40. Install the power steering pump drive belt. Refer to “Accessory Drive Belt Tension” for proper belt tension.
41. Install the engine compartment lower splash shield.
I have a 2012 Ford Fiesta and on my way to Texas from Missouri it would not go into gears 1,3, and 5. It stopped as quickly as it started, but 5th gear would just rev the motor. There was no power to the wheels. Then there was the loudest grinding noise (sounded like rocks in the engine) in gears 1,2,3, neutral, and reverse. Fourth gear worked fine. When I returned home I was told the Synchronizer went out and caused the fluid to leak out and the gears were shot. I had the transmission replaced and before I put 50 miles on it the same exact thing happened. No 5th gear, sounds like rocks in the engine (even in neutral) and 4th gear works great. I was told I was sold a bad transmission and it needs to be replaced again. I could really use some advise!
It sounds like you had the transmission replaced with a used one. The one they took out was used also. So the transmission that is installed is only as good as the warranty that comes with it. If you have a warranty I would recommend taking it back.
I recommend Jasper Re-manufactured Transmissions if you have decided to go with replacing the transmission again. They have a great warranty that covers parts and labor. And they have warranty shops all over the US.