Oct 072019
 

Pontiac Torrent

Needing a wiring diagram for headlights and front parking lights. The dim and parking light on passenger side do not have proper voltage to them for some reason. The bright and turn signal work.



2006 Pontiac Torrent Headlights wiring diagram

2006-pontiac-torrent-headlights

2006 Pontiac Torrent Parking Lights wiring diagram

2006-pontiac-torrent-turn-signals-parking-lights

Oct 072019
 

Nissan Versa

My 2012 Nissan Versa currently has issues accelerating and when I make a stop the car refuses to move again. The code p0101 showed up so I tried cleaning the mass airflow filter, but I’ve seen very little improvement after a day. What are the next steps I should take to fix the issue?



Nissan Code P0101

Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor ‘A’ Circuit Range/Performance

Code P0101 Description

The mass air flow sensor (1) is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. The mass air flow sensor controls the temperature of the hot wire to a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss.

2012 Nissan MAF Sensor

Therefore, the electric current supplied to the hot wire is changed to maintain the temperature of the hot wire as air flow increases. The ECM detects the air flow by means of current change.

Nissan Code P0101 Possible Causes

A) A High Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under light load driving conditions

  • Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
  • Mass air flow sensor
  • EVAP control system pressure sensor
  • Intake air temperature sensor

B) A Low Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under Heavy load driving conditions

  • Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
  • Intake air leaks
  • Mass air flow sensor
  • EVAP control system pressure sensor
  • Intake air temperature sensor
Check for Cracks in the Air Intake – see Video

Oct 072019
 

2012 GMC Acadia

This is specifically a question about the interior of the vehicle.
My wife’s 2012 GMC Acadia front-wheel drive with a little over 71k miles. The top of the center console where it connects to the dashboard came loose and I pressed it back into place. Except for the right side – it is being stubborn.
1. Is this something my wife should be concerned about?
2. Is it something that I can fix myself?



The instrument panel center accessory trim plate just snaps into place. To remove it calls for use of a suitable flat bladed trim tool. If you or someone has removed it to do a repair or work on a radio or something they may not have installed the internal components correctly causing it to be a bit stubborn.

2012 GMC Arcadia Radio Navigation Removal

Oct 052019
 

1997 Ford F150

A week ago I got my rebuilt transmission back from Monster Transmissions and finally got the bastard in and now its leaking transmission fluid from both coolant lines going into transmission. I have tried flaring new lines myself, but no luck…still leaking. Wtf could be going on? It wasn’t doing this pre-rebuilt. Thanks in advance



Make sure the lines are being inserted into the mounting inserts. If they are missing they will need to be replaced. If this are attached with quick disconnect lines, the plastic inserts may need to be replaced along with an o-ring seal. Did you have to use the Quick Disconnect tool 307-441 shown below?

The Motor Manual

Trans Oil Cooler Line, Replace

transmission-cooler-line-connector

1. Disconnect vehicle ground cable from battery. Record customer preset settings. Record radio anti-theft code if required.
2. Lift and support vehicle using a suitable lift.
3. Disconnect fluid cooler tube from any retainers.
4. Remove any fasteners retaining tube routing brackets, if equipped.
5. Place a suitable container under trans end of cooler lines.
6. Disconnect each fluid cooler tube from trans, as required.
7. Let fluid drain into container until fluid drips slowly from tube.
8. Plug ends of tubes and trans ports to prevent excess leakage.
9. Place suitable container under cooler end of cooler lines.
10. Disconnect each fluid cooler tube from cooler, as required.
11. Let fluid drain into container until fluid drips slowly from tube and cooler.
12. Visually inspect cooler lines from cooler to trans for any components that may hinder removal of lines. Remove or move aside any components that will hinder removal.
13. Remove trans cooler lines.
14. Reverse procedure to install, note following:
a. Fill transmission to correct level with clean automatic transmission fluid.
b. Inspect for leaks, correct any found.

Continue reading »

Oct 052019
 

Ford Distributor Stuck

Hi All,

I’m working on a 351 Cleaveland engine by Ford, and cannot move the distributor. I don’t need to remove it, just twist it to adjust the timing. I’ve loosened the bolt and used lubricant, as well as some force, but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.



My first thought for anything that is stuck is to use heat and work it slowly. If you are going to use a spray, I recommend “Blaster PB Penetrating oil” (PB Blaster). Chisel and Hammer are the last resort but may be necessary.

Here are some ideas from around the web.

  • WD-40 is a solvent and it won’t hurt to try it. Just keep soaking it and the rubber hammer on the vac advance is probably better than trying to turn the housing with something.
  • Try pulling it up and out. First mark where the rotor is aimed. When you get the dizzy up and out,then clean the base, and reinstall with rotor ending up in the original position it was in before you yanked it.
  • In one shop I worked, 390 Fords were famous for stuck distributors. One mechanic would get the engine hot, give the base of the distributor a blast from a CO2 fire extinguisher, I was awed, it worked. He did shoot the extinguisher under a towel so there was no mess. No good on a non-running engine though…

Source: Bob

Build a dam around it with putty and fill it with vinegar. The vinegar is acidic and dissolves the corroded aluminum. If it doesn’t work after you’ve tried the solvent, brake fluid, brake clean, etc then its hammer and chisel time although I did get one out with a slide hammer and steel strap around the housing.

Oct 052019
 

2007 GMC Sierra

Engine burning oil

This question is in regard to a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD (8.1L gas engine) with 197,000 miles on it. It had around 60k or 70k miles when I bought it in 2012. It has had a rough life since then – lots of hauling and towing. It has had a long-running problem of burning oil (I would have to add some oil every month), but the oil-burning has suddenly gotten much worse, and I am adding oil every few days.

Every mechanic I’ve ever taken the truck to always says “that’s just what old trucks do, they burn oil”. Another problem (which I assume is related) is that the spark plugs get ruined frequently and have to be changed. I’ve had to change them at 124k miles, 130k (wires only), 170k, 183k, and 197k. At 197k, I told the mechanic I was tired of spending so much on spark plugs, and we decided to try a cheaper plug and see what happens. This, in addition to a full tune-up/fluid exchanges, fixed the symptoms I was seeing (intermittent shudder when idling, ‘check engine’ light coming on when going uphill over 45mph, engine misfire code P0300).

But then I only made it 1200 miles before those same symptoms returned. Same P0300 code, one ruined spark plug, cylinder 2. A mechanic replaced that one plug, and I made it another 80 miles before things went south again yesterday. This time it’s 2 plugs, cylinder 2 and another cylinder (he didn’t tell me which one). So we’re replacing all plugs with the better double platinum ones.

Any ideas what is going on? Am I just doomed to replace the plugs every 15k miles from now on? I love this truck and don’t want to get rid of it. For anyone interested, there are more details below, in case they provide any additional clues. Thanks in advance!



Full Maintenance History

  • oil changes are done every 5k miles
  • oil cooler lines replaced in 2013
  • major tune-up at 124k miles (transmission flush, coolant flush, 4×4 service (front/rear differentials, transfer case), spark plugs, fuel induction system service, air filter replaced)
  • 130k, replaced spark plug wires, cleaned mass air flow sensor
  • 132k, replaced fuel pump assembly
  • 169k, code P0171, cleaned mass air flow sensor
  • 170k, replaced spark plugs, plug wires (mechanic said plugs were really bad and covered in oil)
  • 174k, replaced air filter
  • 183k, replaced spark plugs and air filter
  • 1955xx miles, replaced serpentine belt, belt tensioner, and fan clutch; mechanic said spark plugs are misfiring/worn out (but I couldn’t afford to replace them yet); mechanic said “we took off the valve covers and looked inside of the cylinder heads, in case the valves are gummed up. But we didn’t really find anything except the piston rings are a bit burned out.” He recommended trying Lucas oil stabilizer and Lucas fuel cleaner (which I did) and using premium gas and higher quality synthetic oil from now on (which I did). He said the engine is burning lean, so better fuel will help that. Told me to get a tune-up as soon as I can.
  • at 197k, ‘check engine’ light came on every time going uphill over 45mph; code was P0300 (engine misfire; no other codes); idle is very rough; replaced spark plugs/wires with cheaper copper plugs as an experiment, did fuel exchanges (differentials, transfer case, transmission (& filter), coolant, power steering fluid); cleaned the air filter
  • 1200 miles later, replaced 1 spark plug; added “Engine Restorer 8-Cylinder” to the oil, as recommended by the mechanic
  • 80 miles later (today), replacing all spark plugs with the right kind. Mechanic says it will take a while of driving at high speeds for the “Engine Restorer” to work?

I travel a lot, so I rarely get to use the same mechanic. Whenever I go to a new mechanic, they usually tell me that my last mechanic was BS-ing me and/or didn’t know what he was talking about. I’m a car dummy, so I have to just take the word of these mechanics, and I never really know when I’m getting the run-around.

Thanks to anyone who made it this far in my post!
(attached photo is the cheapo copper spark plug after 1200 miles)

Oil Fouled Spark Plug



Print a copy of your history and present it to your next mechanic, they will appreciate knowing what you have already gone through.

Chevy engines burn oil. This is true but they shouldn’t foul the plug in 1200 miles. You have something else going on.

Definitely fouling the spark plug. So the engine is going to store the P0300 – Engine Misfire code when this happens. That is normal during this situation. There are several things that can cause this code and situation.  The good news would be that you have tried a few things that tell us which cylinders are the problem cylinder.

Compression Test

The next thing to do would be to have a compression test performed. This information can sometimes explain a lot of whats going on. And this will confirm the problem cylinder/s.

Head Gasket

If two cylinders next to each other are significantly lower than the rest there is a possibility of a blown head gasket. However a blown head gasket would also be followed by white exhaust smoke and coolant loss. Since you didn’t mention any of those symptoms we will move on.

Fuel Injector

If there is specifically one cylinder that keeps fouling out the spark plug there is a chance of the fuel injector being stuck OPEN(ON). When this occurs the cylinder rings will wash out(unseat) and foul out that spark plug. After time the the excessive fuel being dumped into the cylinder with washed out rings will allow the fuel to seep into the crankcase and contaminate the engines oil. When this happens you will notice excessive exhaust smoke and start fouling out additional spark plugs.

When looking at the oil on the dipstick it may also have a fuel smell. A quick test can be to remove the spark plugs from the effected cylinders and cycle the fuel pump on and off a few times. While keeping at a distance to prevent fuel from shooting out at you, look to see if the cylinder fills with fuel. If you find the fuel injector is stuck open you will need to replace it and and then perform an oil change to remove any contaminates oil.

Hole or Crack in Piston

You didn’t mention it but i want to cover engine ping. If you experience the engine pinging when climbing a hill or under heavy acceleration you may have caused internal damage. Continually driving the vehicle under these conditions will burn a hole in the piston. If this is the case you will have 0 compression and oil foul the spark plug quickly.

Worn Valve Guides and seals

When the valve seals or guides are worn you will see a puff of smoke at start up. Sometimes lasting until the engine reaches operating temperature. This usually occurs after the vehicle has had time to set and the oil drains down past the guide seals and into the cylinders.

Engine Misfire Causes

  • Faulty spark plug (s)
  • Faulty ignition coil (s) – Engine Coil
  • Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
  • Ignition coils poor electrical connection
  • Clogged or faulty fuel injectors
  • Injectors harness is open or shorted
  • Injectors poor electrical connection
  • Improper spark plugs
  • Insufficient cylinders compression
  • Incorrect fuel pressure
  • Intake air leak

Source: https://www.freeautomechanic.com/engine-misfire.html

Oct 032019
 

Chevy Malibu

I drive a 2009 Chevy Malibu. While driving it sometimes feels like when you push the gas pedal it doesn’t want to gain speed. Finally you’ll feel a shift and it’ll start to climb speed. Sometimes it won’t accelerate over 50 and when it does my traction control light comes on and esc warning. Any ideas on how to fix this?



  • If the RPM are climbing higher and not moving the car accordingly then it would appear the transmission is slipping. How high does the RPM go without moving the car significantly? If the problem is transmission related, the cheapest/easiest thing to try would be to add a little transmission fluid if it is low.
  • Perhaps the Catalytic converter is plugged. It’s been known to happen.

Source: Drunken Elvis

  • If one of the cats is plugged, usually you can tell by letting the car idle for 20-30 minutes. The plugged cat should be very hot, they will even get hot enough to glow red in the dark if they run long enough. You could try checking it after a long drive, see if one is noticeably hotter. (Use an infra red temperature gun for testing temperature of converter, do not touch)

Source: SBUBandit

Oct 022019
 

2006-renault-megane

Greetings, been struggling with a no start over 6mo. Problem 2.8v to injectors, no pulse, no power to crankshaft sensor. Just swapped the ecu. Still the same problem plus another problem that disturbs me. Glow plugs now only receiving 6v with ignition on instead of 11v. The glow plug control module has 2 small wires coming from the ecu, one with 12v , the other 11v. Also red wire in center 12v. Plus the 4 plug wires. Don’t know if this is because of the ecu swap or the control module is bad. Can I rewire this module somehow to get the 11v to the plugs? Please help. Thanks



I have limited information covering Renault vehicles. So I will go ahead and post this so others can respond in case they have some in site into this issue.

As for wiring the plugs direct from the battery I think you would need some kind of shut off switch so once it started you could cut power to them as they only need the glow plugs for starting.

Oct 022019
 

Hyundai Accent

My car won’t start, battery is fine, lights on the dash light up but won’t turn over. It is a 2008 Hyundai Accent.



We have taken the time to create a step by step no start diagnostic chart for just this occasion.

9 out of 10 times this issue is caused by a weak/dead battery. The other 1 out 10 is from poor/corroded connections or failed starter circuit. If the battery is over 4 years old, put a new one in it anyway.

But my dash lights come on how can the battery be bad?

The lights on the dash, the radio and even the headlights use little battery juice when compared to the engine starter. The starter can require up to 250 amps where the radio requires as little as 5 amps. Big difference.

 

Oct 022019
 

2004 Ford Explorer

When I shift my car in reverse I hear a loud kick back kind of like knicking coming from the back tires



There are different things that make different noises. Noises are one of the most difficult issues to describe and sometimes locate. Instead of just guessing, which is about all you can do without actually looking at it, we will focus on the most common cause.

The universal joint(U-Joint) going out would be the most common cause for this sort of issue. Eventually you will heard the noise when moving from forward to reverse and from reverse to forward as they get worse.

DRIVESHAFT U-JOINT, Replace

Single Cardan, Slip Yoke

Disassemble

Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.

1. Index-mark the shaft components.

2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.

3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.

4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft slip-yoke as follows:

a. Position driveshaft slip-yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

b. Press out bearing cup.

c. Rotate driveshaft slip-yoke 180 degrees.

d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.

e. Remove driveshaft slip-yoke.

5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.

6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.

Assemble

Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.

1. Install new spider and bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.

d. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

2. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install new snap ring.

3. Repeat bearing cup installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of shaft yoke.

4. Inspect driveshaft slip-yoke. Install a new yoke, if necessary.

5. Install driveshaft slip-yoke and new bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft slip-yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position driveshaft slip-yoke on spider.

d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

6. Remove shaft from special tool, and install new snap ring.

7. Repeat slip-yoke installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of driveshaft slip-yoke.

8. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.

9. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

10. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.

11. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.

12. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.

Single Cardan, Flange Yoke

Disassemble

Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.

1. Index-mark the shaft components.

2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.

3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.

4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft flange as follows:

a. Position driveshaft flange in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

b. Press out bearing cup.

c. Rotate driveshaft flange 180 degrees.

d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.

e. Remove driveshaft flange.

5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.

6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.

Assemble

Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.

1. Install new spider and bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.

d. Position driveshaft yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

2. Repeat to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft yoke.

3. Inspect driveshaft flange. Install a new flange, if necessary.

4. Install driveshaft flange and new bearing cups.

a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft flange.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position driveshaft flange on spider.

d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

5. Repeat flange installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft flange.

6. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install four new snap rings.

7. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.

8. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

9. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.

10. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.

11. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.