May 112020
 

2004 Ford Escape

Since having NEW rear brake pads, & shocks, my right rear wheel makes a metal to metal sound when I start to stopping. Did not do it BEFORE new brakes. Took it back, all they did was spray dust off wheel. Still happening on only one side.



Take it back again and politely suggest they allow a mechanic or themselves to take a ride with you. This way you can replicate the noise you are experiencing. It shouldn’t make the noise. Occasionally in the rain or wet weather or directly after it may make a noise or two the first couple of times but should fade after that.

Taking it apart and looking at it is what will be required. Also if you did not replace the brake rotors at the same time, it would be normal for the brakes to make some unwanted noise. This unwanted noise should quite after the NEW flat surface of the brake pads mate with the old GROOVED surface of the rotors.

May 112020
 

Isuzu Rodeo

I believe my crankshaft position sensor is bad because the wires that went to it were burnt and open and I also do not know where these wires lead. if you can help please let me know.



Sounds like you have your hands full with this one. It certainly couldn’t hurt to replace the sensor while your in there repairing the burnt wiring. I have provided a couple of wiring diagrams to help assist you in fixing your problem.

Crankshaft Sensor Location

The Crankshaft Position Sensor is built into the distributor.

2000 Isuzu Rodeo Crankshaft Position Sensor Power Distribution

2000-isuzu-rodeo-crankshaft-position-sensor-power-distribution-wiring-diagram

2000 Isuzu Rodeo Crankshaft Position Sensor Ground Distribution

2000-isuzu-rodeo-crankshaft-position-sensor-ground-distribution-wiring-diagram

May 092020
 

Honda Accord

Hello, I am a 20 year old young man looking for a first car. I am torn between a 2008 Honda Accord Sedan Manual Transmission with 133k miles on it for $2500 or a 2012 Mazda 6 automatic transmission with 108k miles, needs a wheel bearing and there is a small crack in the back bumper for $2600. Both cars are from private sellers. What would you recommend? Thank you so much!



Condition and comfort would play a big role in it for me personally. At 20 years of age you will be spending quite a bit of time in the front seat. But lets suppose they both are equally as clean and comfortable as the other. The Mazda needs a wheel bearing, that is 2 hours book time labor plus parts.

So now you have a 2012 Mazda 6 with $2600 + $50 for the hub bearing, we will assume you replaced the hub bearing yourself, vs. a 2008 Honda Accord for $2500. We will go on to assume that the body on both are pristine. So lets look at some Pros and Cons:

PROS
  • Fuel Mileage 22/31 – same for both
CONS
  • Passenger Air Bag Safety Recall 0717A – 2012 Mazda 6
  • Multiple Technical Service Bulletins related to the transmission on the 2012 Mazda 6
  • Multiple Front Air Bag Safety Recalls – 2008 Honda Accord
  • Multiple Technical Service Bulletins related to the Windshield Wiper Motor not working(RECALL) – 2008 Honda Accord

From the looks of things they are both about in the same shape with the exception of the Mazda transmission TSB vs the Honda windshield wiper motor. As far as that goes the wiper motor is bound to be a less expensive fix if it came to it.

The Car I Recommend

They are both about the same. Maintenance costs are also about the same. The Honda tends to have a more reliable reputation. The Honda however is a stick shift and the Mazda is an automatic. In my 20’s I wouldn’t have cared and may have even preferred a stick shift. But as I have gotten older I prefer an automatic. So I would chose the Mazda for myself based on that. As for you still being in your 20’s, I recommend you pick the one that is comfortable and fun to drive.

May 092020
 

Ford F-150

My truck starts fine. When in park to warm up after a few months it revs up then low high then low and shuts off when put in gear I have to sometimes give gas quick!! When accelerating it feels like it don’t want to get up go. Other then that it drives fine.



Sounds like a possible vacuum leak or a faulty IAC Valve. The IAC valve or Idle Air Control Valve is a component that can fail and not cause the check engine light to come on in all cases. There may be helpful trouble codes stored if the check engine light is illuminated.

IAC Valve Replacement 2003 Ford F150 4.6L Engine – Video

Labor Time R&R IAC Valve

 

 
  Model Year Skill Code Factory Time LABOR Time  
IDLE SPEED CONTROL, R&R          
 F150,          
  4.2L ……………………………. 1997-04 B 0.2 0.7  
  4.6L ……………………………. 1997-04 B 0.2 0.7  
  5.4L,          
   w/o Supercharger ………………… 1997-04 B 0.2 0.7  
   w/Supercharger ………………….. 1999-04 B 0.3 0.7  
 
NOTES FOR: IDLE SPEED CONTROL, R&R
Does Not Include: EEC Quick Test Or Pin Point Test Diagnosis Time.
 

IAC Valve Location Diagram

2003-ford-f150-engine-sensor-location-chart-diagram

May 082020
 

Cadillac Fleetwood

I would like to get the ECM wiring diagram because I purchase a new ECM and i transferred the Prom to the new ECM but the ECM still not activating pin 85 of the fuel pump relay.



I would like to note that the relay will only activate for 2 seconds. The Fuel Pump Relay is energized for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to “RUN” or as long as the ECM senses ignition pulses. So if the battery voltage is there for the initial 2 seconds and then is lost, this is normal. You may need to look at why the ECM is not getting engine pulse signal. Check the fuses and wiring if you are not getting battery voltage for the initial 2 seconds.

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Fuel Pump Wiring Diagram

1993-cadillac-fleetwood-fuel-pump-wiring-diagram

May 082020
 

top-dead-center-timing-mark

I have been working on a blown head gasket replacement for this engine. (Mysteriously the head & block were not warped – so I replaced thermostat & water pump hoping that an overheat caused it to blow)

I have gotten to the rebuild & put the cams back in. When I went to turn the engine over to check for interference with the pistons & valves it does get stuck at one point. The last idiot tried to do some work on the engine & had removed the crank pulley. It seems to have all gone back together with the timing marks on the cam gears matching the chain marks.

I have no idea how to move on. Any thoughts?


You stated that something is getting stuck. This sounds like something is hitting internally. Taking it back apart would be the next step.I am thinking you may need to check for a bent valve or just re-check timing.

Make sure to follow the rule of turning the engine over several times to check your timing is good before assembling the rest of the engine.

Timing Chain, Replace

Caution: With timing chain removed, avoid turning camshaft or crankshaft. If movement is required, exercise extreme caution to avoid valve damage caused by piston contact.
Caution: It will be required to recover A/C refrigerant charge. Refrigerant recycling and service equipment for R-134a refrigerant will be required.
1. Release fuel pressure as follows:
a. Remove fuel pump fuse/relay and start engine.
b. After engine stalls, crank engine two or three times to release fuel pressure.
c. Turn ignition switch Off and connect fuel pump relay.
2. Disconnect and isolate battery ground cable.
3. Drain engine oil into a suitable container.
4. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands.
5. Remove engine under cover.
6. Remove front righthand wheel and engine side cover.
7. Remove accessory drive belts, then water pump pulley.
8. Disconnect hoses, wiring harness and electrical connectors to gain access to timing chain, as required.
9. Remove valve cover bolts in sequence, Fig. 1, then rocket cover.
10. Remove cylinder head outside bolts.
11. Set No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke, Fig. 2.
12. Rotate crankshaft until mating mark on camshaft sprocket is set at position, Fig. 3.
13. Remove aluminum oil pan as follows:
a. Remove front exhaust tube.
b. Position a suitable transmission jack under transaxle and lift engine with engine slinger.
c. Remove center member.
d. On models with automatic transmission, remove shift control cable.
e. On all models, remove A/C compressor gussets.
f. Remove rear cover plate.
g. Remove oil pan bolts in sequence, Fig. 4.
h. Remove oil pan baffle.
i. Remove two engine to transmission bolts and install one of them into open bolt hole, Fig. 5. Tighten installed bolt to separate aluminum oil pan from cylinder block.
j. Remove aluminum oil pan.
14. Remove steel oil pan as follows:
a. Remove oil pan bolts in sequence, Fig. 6.
b. Remove oil pan.
15. Remove oil strainer.
16. Temporarily install center member to support engine.
17. Remove crankshaft pulley.
18. Remove alternator.
19. Recover A/C refrigerant into an approved container using suitable A/C charging/recovery equipment. Caution: Avoid breathing refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist, as exposure may cause eye, nose and throat irritation.
20. Remove A/C compressor with hoses attached and position aside.
21. Remove A/C bracket.
22. Remove alternator bracket.
23. Position a suitable transmission jack under main bearing beam.
24. Remove righthand engine mounting.
25. Remove oil pump drive spacer. Be careful not to damage oil pump drive spacer and front oil seal.
26. Remove front cover. Be careful not to damage cylinder gasket. Inspect for oil leakage at front oil seal. Replace seal if oil leak is present.
27. Remove chain tensioner.
28. Remove timing chain guides.
29. Remove camshaft sprockets.
30. Remove timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
31. Install crankshaft sprocket on crankshaft. Ensure that mating marks on crankshaft sprocket face front of engine, Fig. 7.
32. Position crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is set at TDC and key way is at 12 o’clock. Fit timing chain on crankshaft sprocket, aligning mating marks, Figs. 8 and 9.
33. Install timing chain and timing chain guides.
34. Install camshaft sprockets and timing chain, lining up mating marks, Fig. 3.
35. Lock camshafts using a suitable wrench, then torque camshaft sprocket bolts to 101-116 ft. lbs.
36. Install chain tensioner. Ensure camshaft sprockets are tightened completely. Press cam stopper down, then press in sleeve until hook can be engaged on pin. When tensioner is bolted in position, hook will release automatically. Ensure arrow points toward front of engine, Fig. 10.
37. With a scraper to remove old liquid gasket from mating surface of front cover. Also remove old liquid gasket from mating surface of cylinder block.
38. Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to front cover, Fig. 11. Also apply suitable liquid gasket to matching surface to cylinder head gasket. Be sure to install new front oil seal in right direction.
39. Install oil pump drive spacer.
40. Install front cover on engine. Wipe off excessive liquid gasket.
41. Install cylinder head outside bolts.
42. Install righthand engine mounting and bracket.
43. Install alternator bracket and alternator.
44. Install A/C compressor bracket and compressor.
45. Install crankshaft pulley.
46. Set No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke, Fig. 2.
47. Install oil strainer.
48. Install aluminum oil pan oil pan as follows:
a. With a scraper to remove old liquid gasket from mating surfaces. Also remove old liquid gasket from mating surfaces of cylinder block and front cover.
b. Apply a continuous bead of suitable liquid gasket to mating surface of aluminum oil pan, Fig. 12. Apply to groove on mating surface. Allow .28 inch clearance around bolt holes. Install oil pan within five minutes after applying liquid gasket.
c. Tighten oil pan attaching bolts in sequence, Fig. 13. Torque bolts 1-16 to 12-14 ft. lbs.; bolts 17 and 18 to 56-66 inch lbs.
d. Install two engine to transaxle bolts.
e. Install rear cover plate.
f. Install A/C compressor gussets.
g. On models with automatic transmission, install shift control cable.
h. On all models, install center member.
i. Install front exhaust tube.
j. Install baffle plate.
49. Install steel oil pan as follows:
a. With a scraper to remove old liquid gasket from mating surface of steel oil pan.
b. Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surface of steel oil pan. Install oil pan within five minutes after applying liquid gasket.
c. Install oil pan. Torque bolt to 57-65 inch lbs., using sequence, Fig. 14.
50. Remove old liquid gasket from mating surfaces of valve cover and cylinder head.
51. Apply a continuous bead of suitable liquid gasket to valve cover gasket and cylinder head.
52. Install valve cover and oil separator. Be sure to install washers between bolts and valve cover. Tighten valve cover bolts in two steps, using sequence, Fig. 15. First step, torque bolts 1, 10, 11, 13 and 8 to 69-87 inch lbs.; second step, torque bolts 1-13 to 69-87 inch lbs.
53. Install spark plugs.
54. Install water pump pulley.
55. Install accessory drive belts.
56. Install righthand front wheel and tire assembly.
57. Install engine under cover.
58. Lower vehicle, then tighten lug nuts.
59. Connect hoses, wiring harness and electrical connectors.
60. Install accessory drive belt.
61. Fill cooling system to proper level with recommended coolant.
62. Fill engine crankcase to proper level with recommended engine oil.
63. Connect battery ground cable.

Select your Vehicle Repair Manual to get the full Instructions including images, wiring diagrams and more.

May 082020
 

cable connector

In this photo of the connection of the transmission cable to the automatic shift. I see no clips, screws, or other mechanical fasteners. Visibly, there is just a pin and surrounded by a busing. I need to remove it in order to remove floor console in order to remove the airbag module. I am afraid I will damage if I just pull the connector off! What should I do?


I like to use a flat blade screwdriver and slide it underneath. Then pry it gently off. Post below the year, make and model along with the engine size and I might be able to find more on this specific vehicle.

May 062020
 

2004 Dodge Ram 1500

I have got a code p0430. I changed the spark plugs and coils along with bank1 sensor1 O2 Sensor. The Code is still appearing. Next we are fixing to remove the catalytic converter on passenger side.  Asking your opinion?


First after looking at the code and its description (below) I see that Bank 2 is the problem side. I also see that you replaced an O2 sensor on Bank 1. Was that in an attempt to clear this code or was that for a different code issue? I think before you replace anything else you might follow the diagnostic testing procedure below. This should help guide you in the right direction.

Dodge Code P0430

Code P0430 Description

Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2

Code P0430 Diagnostic Testing

1. Active DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Code


Note: A new rear O2 Sensor along with an aging front O2 Sensor may cause the DTC to set. Review the repair history of the vehicle before continuing.

Note: If an O2 Sensor DTC set along with the Catalytic Converter Efficiency DTC diagnose the O2 Sensor DTC before continuing.

Note: Check for contaminants that may have damaged the O2 Sensor and Catalytic Converter: contaminated fuel, unapproved silicone, oil and coolant, repair as necessary.

Ignition on, engine not running.
With a scan tool, read DTC’s.

Is the DTC active at this time?

YES -> Go To 2

NO ->

  • Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Diagnostic Procedure
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST
2. Visually Inspect Catalytic Converter

Inspect the Catalytic Converter for the following damage.
Damaged Catalytic Converter, dents or holes.
Severe discoloration caused by overheating the Catalytic Converter.
Catalytic Converter broken internally.
Inspect both ends of the converter, inlet and outlet.
Leaking Catalytic Converter

Were any problems found?

YES->

  • Replace the Catalytic Converter. Repair the condition that may have caused the failure.
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST

NO-> Go To 3

3. Exhaust Leak

Start the engine.
Inspect the exhaust for leaks between the engine and 2/1 O2 Sensor.
Inspect the exhaust for leaks between the engine and the 2/2 O2 Sensor.
Turn the ignition off.
If a leak is heard but unable to be located, it may be necessary to use a special Miller Tool #8404A Evaporative Leak Detector (EELD) or equivilant on the exhaust system to find the leaks.

Connect the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) to the exhaust cone adapter (if equipped) and place it into the tail pipe.
Set the smoke/air control switch to SMOKE
Press the remote smoke/air start button.
While holding the remote smoke/air start button, use the white light (#8404-CLL) to follow the EVAP system path, and look for the source of the leak indicated by exiting smoke.
The exiting smoke deposits a residual fluid that is either bright green or bright yellow in color when viewed with a UV light.
Be sure to check the exhaust manifold to cylinder head connection for leaks.

Are there any exhaust leaks?

YES ->

  • Repair or replace the leaking exhaust parts as necessary.
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST.

NO -> Go To 4

4. Engine Mechanical

Check the exhaust for excessive smoke caused by an internal problem in the engine.

Is an engine mechanical condition present?

YES ->

  • Repair the engine mechanical condition as necessary.
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST

NO -> Go To 5

5. Aging O2 Sensor

A new rear O2 Sensor along with an aging sensor may cause the DTC to set.
Review the vehicles repair history.

Has the rear O2 Sensor been replaced without replacing the front O2 Sensor?

YES ->

  • Replace the 2/1 O2 Sensor as necessary.
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST

No -> Go To 6

6. Catalytic Converter

If there are no possible causes remaining, view repair.

Repair

  • Replace Catalytic Converter
  • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST.
May 062020
 

2011-cadillac-srx

I need to find the srs control module. I removed the bottom (carpeted) console panel on the driver’s side and it did not look like what I had expected and I did not see the airbag control module. Can someone point me to it and suggest best procedure to remove?


SRS Control Module Location Chart

Look to #5 for location description. look below for programming the control module.

2011-cadillac-srx-air-bag-module-location-diagram

Air Bag Control Module R&R

  1. Disarm air bag system as outlined under “Air Bag System Disarming & Arming.”
  2. Disconnect left and right front seat belts from tensioners.
  3. Remove left and right front seat adjuster track finish covers.
  4. Adjust front seat forward to gain access to rear bolts, then remove rear seat bolts.
  5. Disconnect left and right seat electrical connectors, then remove front seats.
  6. Remove left and right floor console extension assemblies, Fig. 1.
  7. Remove left and right floor console cover trim plates.
  8. Remove left and right instrument panel lower trim panel attaching screws, then trim panels from console, Figs. 2 and 3.
  9. Disconnect automatic transmission control cable, Fig. 4.
  10. Remove floor console mounting bolts, then floor console, Fig. 5.
  11. Disconnect air bag control module wiring harness connector.
  12. Remove mounting bolts and air bag control module.
  13. Reverse procedure to install. Ensure air bag control module arrow is pointing toward front of vehicle.

Get a complete copy of the manual with images included – Online Auto Repair Manuals

Air Bag Control Module Programming

  1. Connect a suitably programmed scan tool to DLC.
  2. Access Service Programming System (SPS) and follow on screen instructions.
  3. On SPS Supported Controllers screen, select Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module Programming and Setup and follow on screen instructions.
  4. At end of programming, choose Clear All DTCs function on SPS screen.
May 062020
 

Chevy Cruze

Overheating/ boiling into reservoir, Already replaced thermostat, both radiator hoses, both temp sensors, coolant manifold. Within 5 miles of driving it will overheat, Burped air out. Replaced water pump last year. Reservoir tank/cap? Head gasket? Ideas?


You have obviously be at it with this one for a while. Lots of good parts thrown at it and still no better off. So lets try a different approach. Lets do some testing.

Perform a cooling system pressure test and an engine cylinder compression test. The cooling system pressure test will allow you to confirm if there are any leaks present, internal or external. The engine compression test will show if there is a blown head gasket.

Another quick test would be to install the cooling system pressure tester and start the engine. You know you have some internal engine issues if you start to see the pressure build way over the manufacturers pressure limit posted on the radiator cap. (15-17 psi)

Cooling System Pressure Tester

Purchase Cooling System Pressure Testing Kit