Apr 232018
 

Mini Cooper

I have the following codes, P-2418 evap emissions open, P-2400 Evap Leak detected, P-2419 Evap emission switch, P-2401 Evap emissions circuit low. I have replaced the gas cap and the fuel leak detection pump already but the check engine light come back on after the a few minutes and not all of the codes clear. Do I have a wiring issue or something else going on? I am at a loss. Thank you Jim


First off it would be great to know which codes are still there. The good news is as long as the check engine light is NOT flashing, it is safe to drive. We can look for the correlation between all the codes and test accordingly.

Mini Code P2148

Description: Evaporative Emission System Switching Valve Control Circuit /Open

Code p2418 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. EVAP system – Check fuel cap, canister, valves or components

Mini Code P2400

Description: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit/Open

Code p2400 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. Open fuse
  7. EVAP system – Check fuel cap, canister, valves or components

Mini Code P2401

Description: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit Low

Code p2401 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. Battery voltage low
  7. EVAP system – Check fuel cap, canister, valves or components
Oct 142015
 

2003 Mini Cooper SMy fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds and then shuts off so there is never any fuel pressure in the fuel rail which should have 50 psi to run the car the car The car just wont start Ive switched fuel pumps new fuel filter and still nothing need your help please

Dec 312014
 

When my car sits at idle for more than a couple minutes the check engine light and DSC light comes on and the car then starts idling rough. When I check the check engine light it says misfire in cylinder 4 but after turning the car off and back on the DSC light is off and it idles fine as long as im in motion and not sitting at idle for more than a couple minutes. What could be causing this? I have changed the plugs, wires, coil pack and valve cover gasket but it still does it.

May 282010
 

hello i have never had any problems with my 2007 mini.
it is now at 58k miles, and for about a week now, when i turn off the engine, the fan runs for about 5 minutes. 2 days ago, i noticed the engine oil temp guage went up towards 250 degrees, but no red lights or hazard lights went on. i turned on the heater to cool the engine, and cool air blew out. i cut the engine and coasted, then when i tried to restart the engine…it would not start.
it still will not start. i had it towed to a garage, and it seems to be NOT getting combustion. the fluids were fine….coolant was fine, and the oil was a little low.
BEFORE i have the head gasket replaced, is there any other option, or any safety feature on the car that kicks in to keep the engine from over heating that i should know about?
could it be something simple (read:less expensive) that could be the problem here….
the fluids were intact and full, no smoke or steam, no leakage
slight overheating coolant smell
thanks for any information…

May 282010
 

hello i have never had any problems with my 2007 mini.
it is now at 58k miles, and for about a week now, when i turn off the engine, the fan runs for about 5 minutes. 2 days ago, i noticed the engine oil temp guage went up towards 250 degrees, but no red lights or hazard lights went on. i turned on the heater to cool the engine, and cool air blew out. i cut the engine and coasted, then when i tried to restart the engine…it would not start.
it still will not start. i had it towed to a garage, and it seems to be NOT getting combustion. the fluids were fine….coolant was fine, and the oil was a little low.
BEFORE i have the head gasket replaced, is there any other option, or any safety feature on the car that kicks in to keep the engine from over heating that i should know about?
could it be something simple (read:less expensive) that could be the problem here….
thanks for any information…