Suddenly car will crank just fine but not start. At the same time the car started continuing to crank after key is turned back. Where should I start troubleshooting?
Start your troubleshooting with reviewing the wiring diagram for the engine starting system. This will give you an idea of all the electronic components involved. After reviewing the diagram myself the first thing that I see that could cause the issue would be the relays. Your engines starting system has two separate relays involved. The IGN1 Relay and the Crank Relay. Relays have a tendency to get stuck or stick in one position when they go bad. I am thinking that is what is taking place here.
2005 Pontiac Vibe, have a 2005 Pontiac vibe, AT, (1.8L, VIN 8, 8th digit), AWD (opt MU5) & I need to replace the tranny(transmission). I’d like to know, if in fact, the Toyota matrix tranny is interchangeable with the Pontiac Vibe? Also, is the 2003 Pontiac Vibe tranny interchangeable with the 2005 Pontiac
The 2003 – 2008 Pontiac vibe came with two different 1.8L engines and two different 4-speed automatic transmissions. The two different transmissions:
4-speed A246E Automatic
4-speed U341F Automatic
Any Pontiac Vibe transmission from 2003 – 2008 of the same type will work. Keep in mind that yours is an AWD and will require the transmission for an AWD. These are Toyota Built engines and transmissions for both the Vibe and Matrix. However, after looking at the part numbers and the year changes of the parts, it does not appear as though they are interchangeable. As for the 2003 Transmission, it is different than the 2005.
I had to replace the whole fuel pump assembly several months ago. Since then I’ve had problems with the car dying. Next there is really no pattern as to when it dies. I have had it do it at 80 mph and at idle, even during start up. It does seem to do it more frequently at higher temperatures. Been thinking its the ECM, but would it be more likely if it were the fuel pump flow control module?
Where is the fuel pump flow control module located on the vehicle? and how do I test it to check if its malfunctioning?
First I am looking for what you are referring to as a flow control module. This vehicle has what is called a Fuel Pressure Regulator. This regulates the flow of fuel to the fuel injectors. The regulated fuel pressure can be tested. It is built into the same assembly as the fuel pump. Could be a loose of bad electrical connection of faulty replacement fuel pump assembly. Finally start there first since this is what was worked on last.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm operated relief valve. The fuel pump is on one side of the regulator and the regulator spring pressure is on the other side. The function of the fuel pressure regulator is to maintain a constant fuel pressure under all of the operating conditions. The pressure regulator DOES NOT compensate for engine load by increasing the fuel pressure as the engine intake manifold vacuum drops. The vent on the fuel pressure regulator is an atmospheric vent only.
Fuel Pressure Regulator Location
The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel sender assembly.
Fuel Pressure Testing
Connect a fuel pressure gauge
Turn ignition on with engine off
Pressure should be between 56 – 62 if working properly
Hi my car makes a squealing whistling noise when reversing and turning, and sometimes driving. Id like to know what the cause is, and what the repair price would be?
This is one of those cases where you will need to diagnose the issue and then price the repair. There are so many possibilities that actually looking at the vehicle and diagnosing the problem is the better than guessing.
I got a leak in my brake line. I’m wondering how do I remove the brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the front passenger caliper.
Simple version, unscrew the brake line from the the caliper and master cylinder. Remove any mounting along the brake line. Pull it out being careful not to bend it as you will want to use it as a guide to bend the replacement brake line.
The engine is over heating and the mechanics don’t know why. New heads, water pump, thermostat and sensors, etc. Over heats almost immediately. We are all stumped and need help. Thank you. 305 engine 5.0L.
looking for reman engine. 1st gen with engine oil cooler.
cannot find one with the cooler.
mechanic says we can use a reman engine without the cooler and just run a bypass around the connections.
Is this advisable?
If a 1st gen Remanufactured Engine is what you want, I would advise continuing to look for it. Have you called Jasper Engines? If they do not have one in stock, they can and will use your engine and re-manufacture it. They will even warranty the labor if installed by a qualified installer.
Description of Problem: I took my 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix to a machanic in Greenville, Texas. It took him about 1 month to have it so called fixed, I drove it home and it seemed fine. It sat for maybe 2 weeks to get the money to have it tagged and inspected.
Well it started slipping again, check the fluid and it’s OK. No leaks, return it back to machanic and he says after having it 2weeks thru the holidays that he would check the filter which I don’t understand why a new wasn’t put on at time of repair.
Anyway while driving sometimes it it won’t shift, and then sometimes it won’t go into gear at all. I have to pull over shut it off and sit a second, then restart it to get it to go.
Any suggestions??? Help please
A clogged transmission filter or faulty transmission solenoid would be my first guess.