The shifter on my truck has been sticky since I bought it, but finally the other day I went to shift it into drive and the whole shifter fell. I was able to put it into drive by using the switch underneath and got it home. I replaced the whole shifter cable, and can move it now. But it won’t come out of park and the switch underneath seems to be jammed. Any suggestions as to what my issue could be? Or any solutions
Put it on jack stands. This will relieve some of the pressure on the parking pin in the transmission. The gear selector switch should move much easier.
Hello I have a 2002 Altima that was perfect, no problems. Then tried to start it and nothing, engine wouldn’t even turn over. However the dash light would blink then when I tried to jump it, it tried to start without the key in the ignition. Then a buddy was looking at it and had the negative cable off the post and tapped the post with the cable and the car again tried go start without the key… What could be the problem???
Somewhere there is a wire crossed or cable shorted. If there has been recent work done, start there. Follow the link and you will find a step by step diagnostic chart for no start conditions. Remember to start with a fully charged known good battery.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and damaging components such as the alternator diodes.
When working on any electrical component in the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical components such as the Engine Control Module (ECM), radio and alternator.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable first will also prevent accidentally grounding the positive terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting the battery creating a short to ground.
Reconnect battery cables by installing the positive cable first. Then connect the negative cable. This will reduce the possibility for voltage spike to occur that can affect the operation of sensitive electronic components. Be sure to check that your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are working correctly. If your vehicle contains an electronically tuned radio don’t forget to also reset your radio stations and clock.
My Dodge started overheating of all a sudden a month ago. I put in a bottle of coolant and that worked. But today it overheated again and I had to put another bottle of coolant. What would cause the loss of coolant?
In most cases loss of coolant is caused from a leak in the cooling system. As a result here are typically two kinds of coolant leaks, external and internal. Coolant appearing on the ground underneath of the vehicle is an indication of an external coolant leak.. Internal coolant leaks are more difficult but usually accompanied by white exhaust smoke. Once you have determined if your coolant is leaking internally or externally you can begin diagnosing the cause.
Above all do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating conditions. The coolant performance of various mixtures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for purpose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the presence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives form deposits in system. These act as insulation causing temperature to rise to as high as 149°C (300°F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22°C (-8°F).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recommended mixture, it provides protection against freezing to -37°C (-34°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. Engine parts may be eroded by cavitation as a result if the percentage is lower. Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
Therefore make sure you do not put coolant directly into the radiator at full strength.
My brake lights do not work. I have changed bulbs fuses brake pedal switch. it is not getting a constant hot to the pedal switch only with key on.
Sounds like you have gotten into a good one. Lets see if I can’t help narrow this issue down a bit. I like to start approaching electrical problems first by looking over the electrical schematic for the problematic system. We will work with the Exterior Wiring Diagram provided below. It appears as though you need to check two fuses, the STOP LP FUSE and the IG1 FUSE. Also check the HAC RELAY and the STOP LAMP RELAY located behind the center of the dash). Beyond that you are looking at checking the wiring and connections.
I have a 1988 Oldsmobile 88 with a burned out turn signal. I am trying to figure out how to reach the bulb to change it out. Can’t seem to reach it from the top. Do I pull the whole headlight assembly out? If so, how? Or is there an easier way? Maybe up on a ramp and get to it from underneath?
Turn Signal Bulb Replacement – 1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88
The replacement of all the light bulbs is straightforward. First look for the easiest way to access the connector. If you can reach under the car to the connector with your hand, then you won’t need to remove the lens assembly. When there is no way to reach the bulb or the connector, you must check for an access cover or see if the lens cover has screws. If the lens is secured by screws, removing the lens would be best access to the bulb. If the lens has no screws showing on the outside of the vehicle, then access is from the back side. Once you have access to the bulb, simply grasp the connector and turn counterclockwise to align the slots, then remove the bulb from the lens housing.
I am wanting to check my transmission fluid level and possibly change the fluid and filter but am unable to locate the dipstick or fill port. The engine is a 3.6 liter and the transmission is the 41TE type. Any advise… TKs..
No transmission oil dipstick
I only show this model coming with a 62TE transmission. Must use Mopar Automatic Transmission Fluid Plus 4 or equivalent. Will require 5.50 qts for service.
Your vehicle does not have a dipstick installed from the factory. A special tool is used to check the transmission fluid level. The transmission Oil Dipstick (special tool #9336A, Dipstick) has indicator marks every 10 mm. I have double checked to make sure this one will fit your 2012 Chrysler Town And Country. Comes complete with instructions.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.
MOPAR® ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.
I started having issues with my A/C system a while ago. It was not very strong in general and when I drove long distances, after about 20 minutes, there would be on and off cold air.
When I connected a manifold, the values with the engine off were fine but once I turned the engine on, the low side would immediately go into “retard” while the high side would read about 145 psi.
In the past, I hit an object in the front of my car, so I knew that the condenser might have an issue. It was a little bent and with a thermometer, I saw a significant difference in temperature in areas right next to each other, therefore I replaced it. However, since it still gave me the same readings, I also exchanged the compressor. The clutch had been working (actually constantly running) but I never heard it humming.
Still having the same readings.
What else could be the problem? The TXV, evaporator or orifice tube? How can I test them before attempting to replace?
Anytime you replace the Air Conditioning compressor the manufacturer recommends that you flush the entire system. The manufacturer also requires that the orifice tube and accumulator/expansion valve be replaced at the same time. If this is not done the manufacturers warranty is void. With that in mind if you are getting a higher reading there may still be a restriction.
I turn my Air Conditioning on max, or any other setting and cold air comes out the main middle vent for about a minute. Then it quits and the air comes out of the defrost vents for a few minutes. And them it starts coming out of the main vent again for just a few minutes to the top and comes out of the defrost vents only. This cycle continues. What is the problem? Thanks for your time. Jeff Duty
The system is designed to divert to defrost when the control panel looses vacuum and this is usually caused by a vacuum leak in the supply line to the controller. Start by locating the vacuum reservoir under the dash on the passenger side and make sure the hose is connected and has good vacuum to it.
The reservoir is #2 in the diagram. If you find good vacuum at the reservoir and no leaks then the control panel will need to be remove and further testing done.