After removing all of the brake caliper, pads, bracket, and the hold down springs, I still can’t get the brake drum off. It is a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, quad cab w/long bed, 2 wheel drive, 5.9 gas.
Brake Rotor Stuck
I am guessing you are talking about the rear brake rotor since a brake drum doesn’t have a caliper involved. Sometimes you will need to use a Sledge Hammer! No joke. At my shop we use a 15 lb LEAD hammer. This helps to prevent damage to the rotor. If you are not planning on reusing the rotor a metal sledge will do.
Warning! Wear safety googles and make sure the vehicle is properly supported.
At a very extreme, you may need to cut it off with a torch. Yes I have had to do this.
The same technique may be used for stuck brake drums after the adjuster is backed off.
This vehicle is equipped with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes also certain vehicles have four wheel disc brakes. The front and rear disc brakes consist of dual piston calipers and ventilated rotors. The rear brakes are dual brake shoe, internal expanding units with cast brake drums. The parking brake mechanism is cable operated and connected to the rear brake trailing shoes. Power brake assist is standard equipment. A vacuum operated power brake booster is used on gas engine vehicles. A hydraulic booster is used on diesel engine vehicles.
Two antilock brake systems are used on this vehicle. A rear wheel antilock (RWAL) brake system and all-wheel antilock brake system (ABS). The RWAL and ABS systems are designed to retard wheel lockup while braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. Both systems are monitored by a microprocessor which controls the operation of the systems.
DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS. IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAILABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE. DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTHERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing mineral oil to clean the system components. These fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or flush brake system components. These are the only cleaning materials recommended. If system contamination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discoloration, or separation into distinct layers. Also check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain and flush the system with new brake fluid if contamination is suspected.
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of contaminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers only to ensure proper antilock component operation.
Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temperature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces, drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins to ensure proper operation.