When car is warmed up and turned off for about 10 minutes, it will not start back up. I have to wait for about 30 min before it will start again. It will crank just no start. I have a new starter, cam and crank position sensors. Engine coolant temp sensor good. Vehicle has spark, and fuel pressure but I don’t know exactly how much pressure because I don’t have the right gauge. I hear the fuel pump prime as well and fuel filter is integrated with pump. I bought a new purge solenoid too thinking it might have been excess vapor. No idea where to go from here.
No Start Condition
We have developed a step by step chart for just this occasion. Remember, having fuel pressure great but if your fuel injectors are not firing you are still not getting gas. A quick test would be to try spraying some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it wants to run.
Heater blows hot air from drivers side and cold air from passenger side of car on my 2012 Dodge Avenger. I’ve read that this could be an blend door actuator that needs to be replaced? Spoke with dealer and they thought it could be the heater core. How can the heater core be defective if it blows hot air out of the drivers side? The blend door makes more sense to me. What do you think? Can I replace this myself without having to remove the dashboard? Please advise. My car has 100000 miles. My car has an automatic transmission.
Heater blows hot air from drivers side only
You are correct in your thinking because there is only one heater core. So if one side is hot, then the heater core is fine. And the most common reason for the heater only blowing hot air from one side is a faulty actuator. Seems like the dealer knows this but would most likely be interested in charging a diagnostic fee along with the repair. Therefore if you are mechanically inclined I do not see any reason you couldn’t replace the actuator yourself. In conclusion, I’ll provide the auto repair manual procedure below.
Blend Door Description
The blend door actuator (1) for the heating-A/C system is a reversible, 12-volt Direct Current (DC) servo motor, which is mechanically connected to the blend-air door. Drivers side blend door actuator is located on the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing.
Consequently the blend door actuator is interchangeable with the actuator for the mode-air doors and the recirculation-air door. In addition each actuator is contained within an identical black molded plastic housing with an integral wire connector receptacle (2). Hence each actuator also has an identical output shaft (3) with splines that connect it to its respective door linkage and integral mounting tabs (4) that allow the actuator to be secured to the HVAC housing. Furthermore the blend door actuator does not require mechanical indexing to the blend-air door, as it is electronically calibrated by the A/C-heater control.
Blend Door Actuator Replacement
First of all, disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. Most of all, this is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Finally, failure to follow these instructions may result in accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury.
LHD model shown. RHD model similar.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
On RHD models, remove the glove box bin.
Disconnect the wire harness connector (1) from the blend door actuator (2) located on the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing (3).
Remove the two screws (4) that secure the blend door actuator to the air distribution housing and remove the actuator.
Position the blend door actuator (2) onto the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing (3). If necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those in the blend air door linkage.
Install the two screws (4) that secure the blend door actuator to the air distribution housing. Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (17 in. lbs.).
Connect the wire harness connector (1) to the blend door actuator.
On RHD models, install the glove box bin.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
If required, Initiate the Actuator Calibration function using a scan tool.
Keeps overheating. Cracked a head but put that feeling in it and it seem to fix it. It started overheating again and I replaced the radiator hoses and thermostat. I am still losing water but can’t find out from where exactly. I have a cylinder that keeps filling with water. What’s my next option?
Cylinder that keeps filling with water
Remove the cylinder head that is effected and have it checked for cracks. It may just be a blown head gasket. This will be apparent once the head is removed. The only other way for coolant to get into a cylinder would be a crack in the intake and or intake gasket. This is not as common as the head issue. The engine will overheat until the leak is repaired.
I need a vacuum diagram for this car. Can you help? email me a diagram please!!
Pcv and Brake booster go to separate large ports, the pcv usually to the carb base and the booster to the manifold fitting.
Vacuum advance goes to one of two small ports on the carb. Test to find the one that has no vac at idle but as soon as you touch the throttle you get vacuum.
Cruise goes to either the small port on the intake or the carb base. It could be split off the vacuum advance.
Oil pressure gauge drops to zero then back to half normal pressure after engine warms up. Has good pressure when first cranked ? Is oil sending unit on exterior or interior of motor ?
Most common cause for this would be a faulty oil pressure sending unit. It is a fairly in expensive part and would be the first place to look. Check the connections and if any sign of oil is around, replace it.
Oil Pressure Sensor Description
The 3–wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor (sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure gallery.
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They are:
A 5–volt power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
A sensor ground through the PCM’s sensor return
A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3–wire electrical function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures relate to different output voltages.
A 5–volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to the instrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit (depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise sensor return.
I can’t fix my spongy brakes. I have replaced all brake pads, master cylinder, a rear caliper and have bled it several times to no success. Someone tells me to change the brake booster but that doesn’t seem correct. How do I fix this?
Brake pedal feels spongy or has excessive travel
Check the brake fluid level and condition. If the fluid is contaminated or has not been flushed every two years, clean the master cylinder reservoir, and bleed and flush the brakes using fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturer’s recommended standards.
Check for a weak or damaged flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and flush the brake system.
If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.
Was driving home and car started to get hot. I stopped the car and the temp gauge went all the way to C. So I started it up and engine sounded great, temp gauge stayed on C. I had two stop signs and then I slowed down to turn in my drive and it died. At that point the tank was hot so I pushed it in driveway. This morning went to start it and it had a loud noise clanking in the front and won’t stay running. I’m thinking timing chain because it was OK when it died. Unsure.
Sounds about right. I would remove the serpentine belt and start it up again to make sure it is an internal noise before digging into the timing chain.
My Electronic Throttle Control light is blinking on my 2012 Dodge Avenger. What does this mean?
Electronic Throttle Control light is blinking
Since the light is blinking it would indicate a serious problem and also indicate a code has been stored. It sounds like a problem with either the APP, Throttle Body, PCM or wiring. (APP is Accelerator Pedal Position sensor, it’s part of the accelerator pedal assembly, serviced as an assembly with the pedal). Probably do need to get it scanned at a dealership to see what codes are popping up. Therefore the next best course of action would be to pull the codes and proceed from there.
Electronic Throttle Body Removal
Never have the ignition key in the ON position when checking the throttle body shaft for a binding condition. This may set DTC’s.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
Remove the resonator.
Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (2) and disengage the ETC harness from the clip (4) on the throttle body.
Remove four throttle body mounting bolts (3).
Remove the throttle body from the upper intake manifold.
Check the condition of the throttle body-to-intake manifold seal. The seal can be reused if not damaged.
I get a 219d code on the dash when I start the vehicle. It disappears after about 1 minute. I have a diesel. Do you know what it means.
Dodge Code P2190 – Bank 1 AFR imbalance
The engine control module (ECM) controls the air/fuel metering system in order to provide the best possible combination of driveability, fuel economy, and emission control. Fuel delivery is controlled differently during Open Loop and Closed Loop. During Open Loop, the ECM determines fuel delivery based on sensor signals without heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) input. During Closed Loop, the ECM adds HO2S inputs to calculate the short and long term fuel trim (FT) adjustments. If the HO2S indicates a lean condition, the fuel trim values will be above 0 percent. If the HO2S indicates a rich condition, the FT values will be below 0 percent. The short term FT values change rapidly in response to the HO2S voltage signals. The long term FT makes coarse adjustments in order to maintain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1.
Code P2190 Possible causes
•Leaking fuel injector or pressure regulator
•High fuel pressure condition
•Faulty Oxygen (O2) Sensor
•Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor