Feb 022017
 

2001 Doge Ram 1500After removing all of the brake caliper, pads, bracket, and the hold down springs, I still can’t get the brake drum off. It is a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, quad cab w/long bed, 2 wheel drive, 5.9 gas.


RESPONSE

Brake Rotor Stuck

I am guessing you are talking about the rear brake rotor since a brake drum doesn’t have a caliper involved. Sometimes you will need to use a Sledge Hammer! No joke. At my shop we use a 15 lb LEAD hammer. This helps to prevent damage to the rotor. If you are not planning on reusing the rotor a metal sledge will do.

Warning! Wear safety googles and make sure the vehicle is properly supported.

At a very extreme, you may need to cut it off with a torch. Yes I have had to do this.

The same technique may be used for stuck brake drums after the adjuster is backed off.

DESCRIPTION

This vehicle is equipped with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes also certain vehicles have four wheel disc brakes. The front and rear disc brakes consist of dual piston calipers and ventilated rotors. The rear brakes are dual brake shoe, internal expanding units with cast brake drums. The parking brake mechanism is cable operated and connected to the rear brake trailing shoes. Power brake assist is standard equipment. A vacuum operated power brake booster is used on gas engine vehicles. A hydraulic booster is used on diesel engine vehicles.

Two antilock brake systems are used on this vehicle. A rear wheel antilock (RWAL) brake system and all-wheel antilock brake system (ABS). The RWAL and ABS systems are designed to retard wheel lockup while braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. Both systems are monitored by a microprocessor which controls the operation of the systems.
WARNING
Warning:
DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS. IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAILABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE. DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTHERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
Caution:
Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing mineral oil to clean the system components. These fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or flush brake system components. These are the only cleaning materials recommended. If system contamination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discoloration, or separation into distinct layers. Also check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain and flush the system with new brake fluid if contamination is suspected.
Caution:
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of contaminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers only to ensure proper antilock component operation.
Caution:
Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temperature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces, drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins to ensure proper operation.

Jan 232017
 

2003 Dodge IntrepidWhile driving Battery fail indicator lit up. I came home and parked the car. Now the car will not start. It cranks but won’t start. I have tried jumping still no luck.
I have checked all fuses and they are all good. Would the crankshaft sensor cause this problem? If it failed while driving would it turn the engine off?


RESPONSE

A crankshaft sensor failure would not illuminate the battery light.

Battery Fail Indicator

The battery light is a NO CHARGE indicator. This means the battery is no longer getting charged. This is most commonly due to an alternator failure. But may also be in the form of an internal short in the battery.

Most likely the battery is shot along with the alternator. Once the battery light comes on the engine is running completely off the battery which adds a strain to it and reduces its life span. When the PCM doesn’t have sufficient voltage it will not start the engine. Replacing the battery and alternator should take care of the issue.

Charging System

The charging system is turned on when the engine is started. The Generator field is control by the PCM using a 12-volt high-side driver and a body ground circuit. The Generator output voltage is determined by the PCM. When more system voltage is needed, the PCM applies a longer duty cycle using the 12-volt high-side drive and shortens duty cycle or none at all when less voltage is needed.

Jan 032017
 

1990 Dodge RamI have a new battery, starter and alternator but something keeps draining the battery when I’m driving and it dies.


RESPONSE

Battery Not Charging

Your alternator is not charging. More then likely there is an issue with one or more of the wires in the wiring harness. This is quite common on older vehicles. The wiring becomes brittle.

Use the wiring diagram provided to check it against yours. You may need to use a multi-meter to check for continuity of each wire. Check the connections and by all means check at the battery for charging. You should see over 13+ volts with engine running.

Charging System Wiring Diagram 1990 Dodge Ram

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Jan 022017
 

2001 Dodge Ram 1500Some one attempted to steal it. So the ignition switch and cylinder is torn up
I was wondering if universal parts will work.


RESPONSE

I do not see any reason you shouldn’t be able to.

RKE/VTSS

Only the highline and premium CTMs have provision for RKE and VTSS. The VTSS system monitors the jamb switches and ignition switch to detect unauthorized entry. Once the system is armed, any one of these inputs can cause the system to initiate an alarm. When in alarm, the low beam headlamps and horn will pulse for about three minutes. If the engine is started, it will immediately stall. If the triggering condition remains, the headlamps will pulse for an additional 15 minutes, but the engine cannot be made to run until the system is disarmed. If the triggering condition is restored, the system will reset and return to the armed state. If the system has rearmed itself, it will sound three horn chirps as a tamper alert when the system is disarmed. The CTM will store the last four causes of a VTSS alarm. The causes can be retrieved by the DRBIII®.

The VTSS system can be disarmed by unlocking the doors with the RKE transmitter or with a door key at either door.

A VTSS indicator in the overhead console will blink rapidly during system arming, slowly when armed and remain on to indicate a system fault.

The RKE system is programmed by the DRBIII®. The system will store up to four key fob codes. Using the DRBIII®, it is possible to program one code without deleting the others. All stored key fob codes can be erased and reprogrammed to prevent unauthorized entry with lost or stolen key fobs.

Starting System Operation

The starting system components form two separate circuits. A high-amperage feed circuit that feeds the starter motor between 150 and 350 amperes (700 amperes – diesel engine), and a low-amperage control circuit that operates on less than 20 amperes. The high-amperage feed circuit components include the battery, the battery cables, the contact disc portion of the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The low-amperage control circuit components include the ignition switch, the clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission), the park/neutral position switch (automatic transmission), the starter relay, the electromagnetic windings of the starter solenoid, and the connecting wire harness components.

If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, it has a clutch pedal position switch installed in series between the ignition switch and the coil battery terminal of the starter relay. This normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized when the ignition switch is turned to the momentary Start position, unless the clutch pedal is depressed. This feature prevents starter motor operation while the clutch disc and the flywheel are engaged. The starter relay coil ground terminal is always grounded on vehicles with a manual transmission.

If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, battery voltage is supplied through the low-amperage control circuit to the coil battery terminal of the starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to the momentary Start position. The park/neutral position switch is installed in series between the starter relay coil ground terminal and ground. This normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized and the starter motor from operating unless the automatic transmission gear selector is in the Neutral or Park positions.

When the starter relay coil is energized, the normally open relay contacts close. The relay contacts connect the relay common feed terminal to the relay normally open terminal. The closed relay contacts energize the starter solenoid coil windings.

The energized solenoid pull-in coil pulls in the solenoid plunger. The solenoid plunger pulls the shift lever in the starter motor. This engages the starter overrunning clutch and pinion gear with the starter ring gear on the manual transmission flywheel or on the automatic transmission torque converter or torque converter drive plate.

As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, the solenoid contact disc completes the high-amperage starter feed circuit and energizes the solenoid plunger hold-in coil. Current now flows between the solenoid battery terminal and the starter motor, energizing the starter.

Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch protects the starter motor from damage by allowing the starter pinion gear to spin faster than the pinion shaft. When the driver releases the ignition switch to the On position, the starter relay coil is de-energized. This causes the relay contacts to open. When the relay contacts open, the starter solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized.

When the solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized, the solenoid plunger return spring returns the plunger to its relaxed position. This causes the contact disc to open the starter feed circuit, and the shift lever to disengage the overrunning clutch and pinion gear from the starter ring gear.

Dec 182016
 

2000 Daodge CaravanMy 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.0 litre 3 door will not start. It will not even roll over. There are no lights on dash or other indicator lights. I had blown horn before turning off vehicle at which point completely dead. Could that have shorted something out ?


RESPONSE

Most likely reason for your no start is from a dead battery. This would also account for the loss of any dash lights. May just be loose battery connections or corrosion. Check this first and maybe even wiggle the cables.

As for the horn being an issue, it may have had an impact. The horn button utilizes a relay that when activated sounds the horns. A sticking relay will cause a drain on the battery but usually will continue to sound. This is if it was functional in the first place. You may want to look over the wiring diagram to gain a better understanding.

SWITCH – removal and installation

The switch is molded into the airbag cover. The switch cannot be serviced separately.

Horn Wiring Diagram 2000 Dodge Caravan

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Dec 162016
 

1998 Dodge DakotaWhen I put my 1998 Dodge Dakota SLT V6 3.9 Liter in reverse it does fine. But when I put in drive its sluggish. Then does OK going down the road for a bit. Then the RPM goes all way to 3 almost 4 til it gets in gear. But after awhile it drives normally. A family member that is a mechanic for 15 years said its the transmission filter and a guy at auto store said the same. My truck is automatic.


RESPONSE

Did you try a new Transmission filter?

Look to make sure your transmission fluid level is full. If it is low, repair the leak and top off the fluid level and test. Look at the fluid color. If the color is dark and burnt smelling it may be too late. Burnt transmission fluid color is an indication of worn internal clutches. But in most all cases, replacing the transmission fluid and filter is first course of action to take. Most damage to a transmission is done from excessive heat.

TRANSMISSION OIL TEMPERATURE WARNING LAMP – description and operation

The transmission oil temperature warning lamp gives an indication when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has detected that the automatic transmission oil is overheated. The lamp is controlled by the instrument cluster circuitry. It is based upon messages received from the PCM on the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) data bus. The PCM sends lamp-on messages for about two seconds. This is when the ignition switch is turned to the On position as a bulb test.

Following the bulb test, the PCM uses an input from the automatic transmission oil temperature sensor located within the transmission, along with its internal programming, to decide whether a condition exists that requires the transmission oil temperature warning lamp to be turned on. The PCM then sends the proper messages to the instrument cluster on the CCD data bus to turn the lamp on or off. When the instrument cluster receives a message to turn the transmission oil temperature warning lamp on, it also sends a chime tone request to the Central Timer Module (CTM).

 

Dec 122016
 

2009 Dodge AvengerSo first off thank you. It started when me and my bro where driving down hill in the rain/snow and wrecked. I lost control, slid into a ditch and hit a tree on the passenger side. We are both OK. But we had to get someone to pull us out. After we got out I drove 5 blocks to his house where we took off the passenger tire and replaced it with the spare. So far the damage I know is the passenger wheel is destroyed and drivers is popped. The fender it’s very dented, the mold and trim prob, the axle might be messed up but the breaks are making noise.

The bumper, the head light cover, the mirror, a little bit of the hood, and the door all on the left are damaged. Also I was told something snapped behind the wheel. I think it’s the lower control arm(maybe)or this part.

Wrecked Rear Control Arm 2009 Dodge Avenger
There might be a bit more and somethings might not be as bad. In conclusion What ever info you can give me to now how much it will cost or what I should do with it. Thanks again and contact me as soon as u can.


RESPONSE

Wrecked My Car, What Now?

Have a body shop give you an estimate after looking the car over. The body shop can determine if the car needs to be put on a frame rack. They will also give you an itemized repair estimate that will show you the parts and labor costs. If you have full coverage insurance they may decide it is better to total the car instead of repairing it. Once a car is wrecked it is a good idea to have a hands on mechanic give it a good look. Most insurance companies today require an inspection after a car has been wrecked.

Dec 082016
 

2013 Dodge AvengerMy car died while I was driving it. Lost fuel. At first thought my gauge was off and tried putting gas in and it tries but won’t start. My brother said the fuel pump wasn’t kicking on. He checked all the fuses, relays and tested to see if power was going to the fuel pump. (It was) He thought the fuel pump went bad so we bought a new one. We put it in and still won’t kick on. The store we bought it from has had problems lately getting in faulty parts so I’m wondering if we got a bad one or if it could be something else. He also checked to see if I have an inertia switch that may have been flipped but he could not locate one.


RESPONSE

I would try applying power to the fuel pump outside of the vehicle to see if it works. If it does, you know it is not the fuel pump. If it doesn’t you know to get a different one. Also make sure you are checking for Battery POSITIVE and Battery NEGATIVE. Would hate to think all that is wrong is a bad ground wire connection.

 

Nov 212016
 

2002 Dodge DakotaI have 2002 Dodge Dakota. I was driving home and the cluster stopped working.  All the gauges bottom out and the dash lights came on and now it says No bus and 920,921,and 999 at the bottom left corner. And the AC stopped at the same time. Can you point me in the right direction?
Thank you
Tim


RESPONSE

What you have is no communication between the instrument cluster and the other control modules in the vehicle. The truck uses a two wire communication system and if one of those wires goes out then the whole system is down. Most common is a mouse chewed through one of the bus wires on your truck and it needs to go to the dealership because they are the only ones who can properly diagnose a bus failure. It requires the use of a DRB III. Another cause may be from corrosion in the wires and or wiring harness connections.

Testing for codes 920, 921 and 999

Check in clean the connections at the underwood power distribution center disconnect the terminals clean and Henry tighten them also remove the fuses and the relays one at a time and reinstall them cleaning the terminals as you go,The BUS voltage originates from the IC. Begin by unplugging all of the modules that are on the BUS circuit, while monitoring the BUS voltage.
These include Powertrain Control Module , Central Timer Module, Controller Anti-Lock Brake , Overhead Console, Radio, Air bag Control Module . Leave the IC plugged in for this test.
When the BUS voltage returns to approximately 2.5 volts, the module that was disconnected last is the bad module, replace it

The BUS voltage can be tested at the Diagnostic Link Connector at pin 3 Violet/Brown and pin 11