I installed a new head light switch. I disconnected battery before starting the replacement. When I finish getting the new switch in and prior to totally putting the dash panel back in I reconnected the battery to see if the switch was operating correctly. I noticed when I started the truck that the instrument panel cluster wasn’t working. I checked all fuses and found one 20 amp fuse for St light blown. I replaced it and found all lights working but still no instrument panel. What else do I need look at?
The instrument panel utilizes 4 fuses. I would check those first. Use the diagram below to assist you in your diagnosis.
I have a lot of brake dust on rims, we have replaced calipers, brake pads, rotors, every 3 to 4 months. just wandering if there’s something else were missing
Sounds like you are driving with two feet or are using the cheapest brake pads available. Brake pads should not be worn out inside of 3 months. If you have found the brake calipers sticking, the caliper hoses may be the cause.
Brake Dust on Rims
To help reduce the amount of brake dust you will want to use a quality ceramic brake pad. This should cut down on the amount of dust you are seeing.
My battery and engine light came on last night while I was driving what could be wrong with my car?
Battery and Engine Light
The battery light indicates the battery is no longer being charged. Typically this means the alternator has failed. It may also mean the alternator belt has come off but a loss of steering is usually noticed as well if this happens. Since the engine light came on as well it may be an indication of the same issue. When the engines computer no longer has sufficient battery voltage it will not function properly. Having the computer scanned will show any stored trouble codes.
Changing alternator and my old alternator stuck in the engine. I have removed the bolts, belt and clips, but it still won’t come out. What do I do?
Once you are certain you have removed all retaining bolts it may be necessary to use a pry bar. Slide the pry bar behind the alternator and bracket or engine. You shouldn’t have to use too much force but some none the less.
If the alternator is loose but you are having difficulty getting out of the engine bay there is hope. Remove the Dipstick tube first. Then roll the alternator and remove. See below for complete auto repair manual instructions for replacing the alternator.
If the hard starting only occurs after the truck has set for a while or over night the fix may be simple. Replacing the spark plugs may be all that is needed here. Regular spark plugs tend to need replacing every other year on fuel injected engines. Where double platinum spark plugs will last about 100,000 miles. This is quite common for this year of truck.
If it is easier to start with applying the gas pedal then you may have a sticking Idle Speed Control.
And of course if the check engine light is on this may indicate a failing engine sensor.
After removing all of the brake caliper, pads, bracket, and the hold down springs, I still can’t get the brake drum off. It is a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, quad cab w/long bed, 2 wheel drive, 5.9 gas.
Brake Rotor Stuck
I am guessing you are talking about the rear brake rotor since a brake drum doesn’t have a caliper involved. Sometimes you will need to use a Sledge Hammer! No joke. At my shop we use a 15 lb LEAD hammer. This helps to prevent damage to the rotor. If you are not planning on reusing the rotor a metal sledge will do.
Warning! Wear safety googles and make sure the vehicle is properly supported.
At a very extreme, you may need to cut it off with a torch. Yes I have had to do this.
The same technique may be used for stuck brake drums after the adjuster is backed off.
This vehicle is equipped with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes also certain vehicles have four wheel disc brakes. The front and rear disc brakes consist of dual piston calipers and ventilated rotors. The rear brakes are dual brake shoe, internal expanding units with cast brake drums. The parking brake mechanism is cable operated and connected to the rear brake trailing shoes. Power brake assist is standard equipment. A vacuum operated power brake booster is used on gas engine vehicles. A hydraulic booster is used on diesel engine vehicles.
Two antilock brake systems are used on this vehicle. A rear wheel antilock (RWAL) brake system and all-wheel antilock brake system (ABS). The RWAL and ABS systems are designed to retard wheel lockup while braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. Both systems are monitored by a microprocessor which controls the operation of the systems.
DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS. IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAILABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE. DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTHERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing mineral oil to clean the system components. These fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or flush brake system components. These are the only cleaning materials recommended. If system contamination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discoloration, or separation into distinct layers. Also check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain and flush the system with new brake fluid if contamination is suspected.
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of contaminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers only to ensure proper antilock component operation.
Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temperature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces, drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins to ensure proper operation.
While driving Battery fail indicator lit up. I came home and parked the car. Now the car will not start. It cranks but won’t start. I have tried jumping still no luck.
I have checked all fuses and they are all good. Would the crankshaft sensor cause this problem? If it failed while driving would it turn the engine off?
A crankshaft sensor failure would not illuminate the battery light.
Battery Fail Indicator
The battery light is a NO CHARGE indicator. This means the battery is no longer getting charged. This is most commonly due to an alternator failure. But may also be in the form of an internal short in the battery.
Most likely the battery is shot along with the alternator. Once the battery light comes on the engine is running completely off the battery which adds a strain to it and reduces its life span. When the PCM doesn’t have sufficient voltage it will not start the engine. Replacing the battery and alternator should take care of the issue.
The charging system is turned on when the engine is started. The Generator field is control by the PCM using a 12-volt high-side driver and a body ground circuit. The Generator output voltage is determined by the PCM. When more system voltage is needed, the PCM applies a longer duty cycle using the 12-volt high-side drive and shortens duty cycle or none at all when less voltage is needed.
I have a new battery, starter and alternator but something keeps draining the battery when I’m driving and it dies.
Battery Not Charging
Your alternator is not charging. More then likely there is an issue with one or more of the wires in the wiring harness. This is quite common on older vehicles. The wiring becomes brittle.
Use the wiring diagram provided to check it against yours. You may need to use a multi-meter to check for continuity of each wire. Check the connections and by all means check at the battery for charging. You should see over 13+ volts with engine running.
Some one attempted to steal it. So the ignition switch and cylinder is torn up
I was wondering if universal parts will work.
I do not see any reason you shouldn’t be able to.
Only the highline and premium CTMs have provision for RKE and VTSS. The VTSS system monitors the jamb switches and ignition switch to detect unauthorized entry. Once the system is armed, any one of these inputs can cause the system to initiate an alarm. When in alarm, the low beam headlamps and horn will pulse for about three minutes. If the engine is started, it will immediately stall. If the triggering condition remains, the headlamps will pulse for an additional 15 minutes, but the engine cannot be made to run until the system is disarmed. If the triggering condition is restored, the system will reset and return to the armed state. If the system has rearmed itself, it will sound three horn chirps as a tamper alert when the system is disarmed. The CTM will store the last four causes of a VTSS alarm. The causes can be retrieved by the DRBIII®.
The VTSS system can be disarmed by unlocking the doors with the RKE transmitter or with a door key at either door.
A VTSS indicator in the overhead console will blink rapidly during system arming, slowly when armed and remain on to indicate a system fault.
The RKE system is programmed by the DRBIII®. The system will store up to four key fob codes. Using the DRBIII®, it is possible to program one code without deleting the others. All stored key fob codes can be erased and reprogrammed to prevent unauthorized entry with lost or stolen key fobs.
Starting System Operation
The starting system components form two separate circuits. A high-amperage feed circuit that feeds the starter motor between 150 and 350 amperes (700 amperes – diesel engine), and a low-amperage control circuit that operates on less than 20 amperes. The high-amperage feed circuit components include the battery, the battery cables, the contact disc portion of the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The low-amperage control circuit components include the ignition switch, the clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission), the park/neutral position switch (automatic transmission), the starter relay, the electromagnetic windings of the starter solenoid, and the connecting wire harness components.
If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, it has a clutch pedal position switch installed in series between the ignition switch and the coil battery terminal of the starter relay. This normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized when the ignition switch is turned to the momentary Start position, unless the clutch pedal is depressed. This feature prevents starter motor operation while the clutch disc and the flywheel are engaged. The starter relay coil ground terminal is always grounded on vehicles with a manual transmission.
If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, battery voltage is supplied through the low-amperage control circuit to the coil battery terminal of the starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to the momentary Start position. The park/neutral position switch is installed in series between the starter relay coil ground terminal and ground. This normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized and the starter motor from operating unless the automatic transmission gear selector is in the Neutral or Park positions.
When the starter relay coil is energized, the normally open relay contacts close. The relay contacts connect the relay common feed terminal to the relay normally open terminal. The closed relay contacts energize the starter solenoid coil windings.
The energized solenoid pull-in coil pulls in the solenoid plunger. The solenoid plunger pulls the shift lever in the starter motor. This engages the starter overrunning clutch and pinion gear with the starter ring gear on the manual transmission flywheel or on the automatic transmission torque converter or torque converter drive plate.
As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, the solenoid contact disc completes the high-amperage starter feed circuit and energizes the solenoid plunger hold-in coil. Current now flows between the solenoid battery terminal and the starter motor, energizing the starter.
Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch protects the starter motor from damage by allowing the starter pinion gear to spin faster than the pinion shaft. When the driver releases the ignition switch to the On position, the starter relay coil is de-energized. This causes the relay contacts to open. When the relay contacts open, the starter solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized.
When the solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized, the solenoid plunger return spring returns the plunger to its relaxed position. This causes the contact disc to open the starter feed circuit, and the shift lever to disengage the overrunning clutch and pinion gear from the starter ring gear.