Either your vents are blocked, disconnected or the blower motor is not coming on. If it is the blower motor that is not coming on at all you may need to replace the blower motor and or the blower motor resistor.
If you find the blower motor working, the temperature blend door actuator or the door itself may be at fault.
When the ignition switch is in the RUN position, circuit C11 from the blower motor relay provides voltage to the blower motor.
From the blower motor, circuit C7 splices to the blower motor resistor and the A/C-Heater control switch.
The ground path for the blower motor is through the circuits that connect from the blower motor resistor block and then through the fan switch in the A/C-heater controls to circuit Z3. The blower motor resistor block consists of three resistors connected in series.
Each resistor in blower motor resistor block is spliced to the fan switch on separate circuits; C4, C5, C6, and C7. Depending on fan switch position, voltage passes through one or more resistors to ground. Blower motor fan speed is controlled by the number of resistors voltage passes through to ground.
When the fan switch is in the LOW position, circuit C4 provides the ground path. In the M1 position, circuit C5 provides ground. In the M2 position, the ground path is through circuit C6. Circuit C7 provides path for ground when the switch is in the HIGH position.
BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
The blower motor resistor is mounted to the heater-A/C housing, under the instrument panel and just inboard of the blower motor. It can be accessed without removing any other components.
The resistor has multiple resistor wires, each of which will change the resistance in the blower motor ground path to change the blower motor speed. The blower motor switch directs the ground path through the correct resistor wire to obtain the selected blower motor speed.
With the blower motor switch in the lowest speed position, the ground path for the motor is applied through all of the resistor wires. Each higher speed selected with the blower motor switch applies the blower motor ground path through fewer of the resistor wires, increasing the blower motor speed. When the blower motor switch is in the highest speed position, the blower motor resistor is bypassed and the blower motor receives a direct path to ground.
The blower motor resistor cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota SPORT in
3.9 v-6 five speed
When I take off in first gear my shifter goes to the right. Is it one of my motor mounts and if so which one and if it is something else please tell me what yu think
It only does this in first gear only and it makes a bump sound as well.
It is possible it could be a bad mount(engine or transmission). Put on jack stands with all four wheels off ground and have someone imitate the situation while you inspect the mounts.
My truck wont start now but the problem before it stopped was I couldn’t stomp on the gas. It would just stay the same speed and rpm and rev or it would decrease speed it also would randomly kinda jump or rug for min like it would shut off and when it stopped working i was going 60 and it just wouldn’t do anything but decrease speed then shut off got started one more time and wouldn’t let me get over 30 now wont start any ideas
The van has the 3.3l problem is hit pothole and van shut down. I have check battery(good) there is an open circuit causing a bad drain. Battery reads 11.55v and drops to 5v when you turn key on or even open the door. I have run all the test that I could find. Checked harness, relays, fuses and grounds. Also switched relays. There is 10v showing at the IOD fuse with fuse out. With fuse out there is no drain until you turn key on (no dash lights). And then battery drops to 5v and the ASD clicks after key is off. It wont stop unless you disconnect battery. With fuse in and nothing on the battery drops to 5v. thank you.
UPDATE: found the problem. it was a frayed crankshaft position sensor wire. those dodge engineers are stupid. who would have figured that that wire would cause all that trouble with van not even on.
My Dakota is a standard shift. When you try to start the truck in 1st gear it jumps forward then nothing. I have bought a slave cylinder and tried to bleed it. But I wasn’t getting any pressure in the pedal so I bought a clutch master cylinder. I bleed the cylinders again got a whole bunch of air because where they were new. But I was still having the same issue. So I took the slave cylinder off and pumped it with my hand. It got real stiff so I put it back in then the clutch had a lot of pressure but it still jumped when I tried to start it.
So I tried to bleed it again. When I bled it all the pressure was lost in the pedal. After a few minutes it came back so I tried to start it again still it jumped forward. Ive been dealing with this process for about 8 days now. I had an inspection hole cut into the transmission everything is in their right place. I’m not sure what else too try.
This is a common issue when dealing with a failed slave cylinder. It is almost impossible to get the air out of the system. This is why the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are replaced as an assembly. The Auto Parts stores desk jockeys won’t tell you this when they sell you the part separate. I have found ordering the assembly from a dealership and installing it was the ONLY way to get a pedal.
Clutch Master Cylinder
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder is mounted on the firewall and is fed fluid via gravity from a remote reservoir. The master cylinder mounting nuts are inside the cab. The torque for the nuts is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). Torque for the reservoir nuts is 95 inch lbs. (10 Nm). The slave cylinder is mounted on a bracket on the left side of the transmission. Mounting nut torque is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). The clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines are serviced as an assembly only. The linkage components cannot be overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and connecting lines are filled and factory sealed.
The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on the clutch housing flange
Remove the nuts attaching the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
Remove the slave cylinder and clip from the housing.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the locating clip from the clutch master cylinder mounting bracket.
Remove the retaining ring, flat washer and wave washer that attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal. Slide the pushrod off of the pedal pin. Inspect the bushing on the pedal pin and replace if it is excessively worn.
Verify that the cap on the clutch master cylinder reservoir is tight so fluid will not spill during removal.
Remove the screws attaching the reservoir and bracket, if equipped, to the dash panel and remove the reservoir.
Pull the clutch master cylinder rubber seal from the dash panel.
Rotate the clutch master cylinder counterclockwise 45°to unlock it. Remove the cylinder from the dash panel.
Remove the clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines from the vehicle.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Operate the clutch pedal a few times to verify proper system operation. The system will self-bleed any air in and vent through the reservoir. Connect the negative battery cable and road test the vehicle.
one taillight fails to work on brake light and turn signal. Taillight bulb is working. turn signal and brake light blink once and then fail. Socket has been changed, still not working. what would cause this
Could be any part of the circuit. Bad wiring harness or connections. Possibly a bad component. Looking at the diagram provided it is clear that some testing with a multi-meter might be in store. If you have had any sort of trailer wiring installed, look there first.
Exterior lighting wiring diagram 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan