My dodge has electrical issues things working then not working. After looking into it I found two alarm systems and remote start. Then after market stereo converted into control module. I tore out to much and see that something else is wrong. Everything is running all the I’m all wire has been changed to 18 gauge and plugs laying all over. With other plugs put in place … So I’m looking to take it back to original factory alarm. Please help with a wiring diagram of the whole truck? Four months down stuck in my house.. I need a diagram I ordered new harness git ripped off and only got b.my account has been frozen and no way to get to bank. Please please help me with a diagram.
Thank you for your request. If you want all the Premium Repair Manual Information and wiring diagrams that are available for this vehicle that are accessed online right now, follow this link REPAIR MANUAL for just $19.95 you can have full online access to everything you need including wiring diagrams, repair information, factory recall information and even TSB’s ( Technical Service Bulletins ) There are over 30 individual diagrams involved for just the alarm system. alone.
We will not provide you repair manual information or wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle as it may infringe certain copyright laws.
I recently had my front bearings and alignment done at Les Scwabb. Tires rotated and balanced too. Yet, when I drive my truck, ever so often, there is a sound like when ones drive over the grooved pavement on the freeway. Is that the 4×4 transfer case trying to engage while driving?
You may find that the noise happens more often when slowing down or turning. Noises can be difficult to narrow down. While accelerating or decelerating may be an indication of differential pinion bearings going out. While turning may indicate a hub bearing going out. Have not heard of the 4×4 transfer case trying to engage by itself.
This vehicle is having some transmission shifting issues. Don’t know if it is worth paying to have it fixed. It seems to not fully disengage when stopping and sometimes takes a bit to re-engage when starting to move.
When asking if the vehicle is worth fixing or not there are a few things to consider. Like what was your plan for the vehicle before the issue arose? Drive it till it breaks? Your there. Is it a family inheritance that carries sentimental value? Then money is no object. Based on resale value one must consider other factors such as the condition of the interior and exterior as well as potential mechanical issues lurking in the wake.
If I had to guess what is wrong with it without looking at it, My guess would be a faulty solenoid. However I would start by checking the fluid level of the transmission. Take note of the color and if it is burnt looking a complete rebuild may be necessary. I should also note that some have been successful with simply changing the transmission fluid and filter. This may be something to consider trying if it is in the budget.
Hydraulic Control System
Many new transmissions are electronically controlled. On these models, electrical solenoids are used to better control the hydraulic fluid. Usually, the solenoids are regulated by an electronic control module.
I just bought this truck and it needed a fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced with the wrong fuel pump before. I ordered a new fuel pump, but it is quite different. It has an return and outlet line. The truck only has an outlet line and one that is very small that I was told was a vent. The old pump had a component that didn’t come with the new pump that had to be moved to the new pump. Not sure what it is, but the small line on the truck fits it and that is where it was on the old pump. I connected it up and of course had no line to go on the return on the new pump and the truck is running. I’m afraid to keep running it if its wrong. I’m baffled. Ive replaced fuel pumps before and never had the both return and out take lines on the pump.
Should be just fine to drive.
Fuel Pump Testing for 1993 MODELS
2.5L/4-151 & 3.0L/V6-181
Release fuel system pressure as outlined under”Fuel System Pressure Relief. “
Disconnect5-16 inch fuel supply hose from engine fuel line assembly.
Connect fuel system pressure tester tool No. C-4799B or equivalent between fuel supply hose and engine fuel line assembly.
Activate fuel pump and pressurize the fuel system using the DRB II scan tool.
If gauge reads 13. 5-15. 5 psi, pressure is correct.
If pressure is not as specified, record pressure, then install pressure tester in the fuel supply line between the fuel tank and fuel filter at the rear of the vehicle.
Activate fuel pump and pressurize the fuel system using the DRB II scan tool.
If pressure is 5 psi higher than previously recorded, replace fuel filter.
When no change is pressure is noted, gently squeeze return hose. If pressure increases, replace pressure regulator. If there is no change in pressure reading, problem is either a plugged pump filter or a defective fuel pump.
If pressure is higher than specified, remove fuel return line hose. Connect a three foot hose to the return line. Place other end in a suitable container.
Repeat test. If pressure is now correct, check intank return hose for kinking or restrictions.
If pressure is still above specified pressure, remove return hose from throttle body and connect a suitable hose to the throttle body and place the other end into a suitable container.
repeat test. If pressure is now correct check for a restricted fuel return line. If change is pressure is not observed, replace fuel pressure regulator.
The park/neutral switch is located on the transmission housing and provides an input to the powertrain control module (PCM) This will indicate that the automatic transmission is in Park, Neutral or a drive gear selection. This input is used to determine idle speed (varying with gear selection), fuel injector pulse width, ignition timing advance and vehicle speed control operation.
Check adjustment by starting the engine in Park and Neutral. Adjustment is OK if the engine starts only in these positions. Adjustment is incorrect if the engine starts in one but not both positions. If the engine starts in any position other than Park or Neutral, or if the engine will not start at all, the park/neutral position switch may be faulty.
Gearshift Adjustment Procedure
Shift transmission into Park.
Release cable adjuster lock (underneath the power brake booster) to unlock cable.
Slide cable eyelet off transmission shift lever.
Verify transmission shift lever is in Park detent by moving lever fully rearward. Last rearward detent is Park position.
Verify positive engagement of transmission park lock by attempting to rotate propeller shaft. Shaft will not rotate when park lock is engaged.
Slide cable eyelet onto transmission shift lever.
Lower vehicle and check engine starting. Engine should start only in Park and Neutral.
Lock shift cable by pressing cable adjuster clamp down until it snaps into place
I need a standard trailer wiring diagram for a auto trailer. The supply side has a 5 position plug. 1ground, 4 colored supply wires, trailer has two tail lights with brake light capability. I misplaced my instructions. Need help identifying colors of trailer connections.
The 5 wire diagram shows the addition of a wire for use on electric brakes or back up lights. Where as on the 4 wire diagram does not. Use the provided wiring diagrams below to assist you in your installation.
4 wire trailer wiring diagram
5 wire trailer wiring diagram
Towing Package Factory Wiring Harness
The trailer tow preparation wiring harness is connected to the body wire harness. It is located at the right and left outer rear lamp unit connections. After installation is complete, a trailer tow stop/turn relay is secured to the harness behind the rear bumper fascia just below each outer rear lamp unit. A trailer tow stop lamp relay is located on the underside of each outboard end of the rear bumper reinforcement behind the rear fascia. The four-way trailer tow connector is located near the center of the rear fascia.
radio sound goes in and out about every 20 seconds
Quite a bit of noise about this issue. From some of the posts I have read, the FIX was replacing the RADIO(not the Amp).
Just as a quick try, Try disconnecting your negative battery post for about 60 seconds. Sometimes(but not always) this will clear an electrical glitch. It can’t hurt, and in fact, will give you the benefit of re-setting the PCM(like the Fuse 2 removal). Second thing I would check would be to plug connection in the back of the radio. Hope one of these two simple things may help you.
Mine was fixed at the dealer. First they thought it was the amp which they replaced and still gave the same symptoms with everything working, just no sound. Then they replaced the radio and that solved the issue. So I ended up a new amp and a new radio. No problems since then.