2012 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L shudders while driving between 30 to 50 mph, there are no check engine lights and no misfire codes. It does not happen all the time its an intermittent problem.
Shudders while driving
My recommendation would be to ad a friction modifier to the transmission. One that I have had good results with is called “Shudder Fix”. It can be purchased online.
Just add it to your transmission fluid and drive it like you normally do for a least 10 miles. It is an inexpensive fix. In most cases the shudder is in the torque converter lock up clutches not smoothly engaging and disengaging. It will not hurt your transmission.
Battery Light stays on. New battery alternator good.
The battery light comes on when the battery is not being charged. Check to make sure the alternator is installed correctly. Meaning look to make certain the electrical connections are all hooked up properly. Next check the Fusible link to make sure it isn’t blown. Finally check your battery cable connections.
The fuel pump relay is commonly bypassed for testing and diagnostic purposes. But it is not recommended for long term use.
Replace the fuel pump relay if it is faulty. Next repair wiring harness or connections if they are faulty. The fuel pump relay is located in the rear lefthand corner of the engine compartment at the firewall.
How can I tell if my transmission blew in my truck or if its just a broken line?
This is what happened…
I drove my truck about 3 weeks ago around the block it had NO issues shifting or driving or anything realistically. I was driving my truck because it was having a bit of idling issues before and was not popping up any codes. It just idled funny and kept doing that so i parked it till i had time to look at it. I started my truck. It started just fine, no issues and the idling had just happened to disappear on its ow. So to really see if it had gone I took it around the block came back.
Then put it in reverse again with no issues, no hesitation, no clunking, nothing just a smooth shift into reverse. I parked it opened my hood smelled something sweet ( i was aware i was leaking antifreeze and no my reservoir was not empty. I always kept it full, so I looked around and I did happen to see a small burst of white smoke.
Then I looked under my truck saw my truck was COVERED in some type of liquid on the driver side front (just the driver side front by my tire) so i shut my truck off and went under to find out what it was. It was red fluid and was the transmission fluid. I went to move my truck the other day and when it turned over it made a yucky sound so i immediately shut it off looked under my truck again and sure enough it was COVERED again same spot. I looked in the transmission reservoir. It still has transmission fluid in it. Does this mean my transmission is blown?? or does this sound like a broken line? please let me know!!…
To answer your first question the transmission is still functioning as it should. So this would indicate the transmission internally is OK. However you have an external leak that will need to be addressed. It could be as simple as a leaking hose or connection at the radiator. The transmission cooling lines attach to the radiator and sometimes wear, crack and leak.
To answer your last question would be the transmission is not blown. When a transmission is blown it means it will no longer function (shift or move the vehicle). Your vehicle just has a transmission leak that will need to be fixed before you drive it too much. Keep the transmission fluid level topped off being sure not to over fill it. Check it often if you intend to drive it at all.
Does my car have hydraulic lifters? If not how can I fix a ticking noise coming from the engine? It’s not low on oil I am using synthetic it is due for a change but hasn’t gone over since I’ve owned it. Has 78,900 miles
Your engine is equipped with hydraulic valve lifters and do not require periodic valve lash adjustment. Proper adjustment is maintained automatically by hydraulic pressure in the valves.
If the lifter fails this is known as a “collapsed lifter”, it can be replaced. At this point the camshaft should be inspected to determine if the cam lobes are worn and in need of replacement as well.
Camshaft and Bearing Inspection
Thoroughly clean all parts. Inspect the camshaft journals for scoring. Check the oil feed holes in the cylinder head for blockage. Check the camshaft bearing journals for scoring. If light scratches are present, they may be removed with 400 grit abrasive paper. If deep scratches are present, replace the camshaft and check the cylinder head for damage. Replace the cylinder head if worn or damaged.
If the camshaft lobes show signs of wear, check the corresponding rocker arm roller for wear or damage. Replace any rocker arms/hydraulic lash adjusters which are worn or damaged. If the camshaft lobes show signs of pitting on the nose, flank or base circle, replace the camshaft.
Camshaft end-play should be checked using the following procedure:
On the DOHC engines, oil the camshaft journals and install the camshaft WITHOUT the camshaft follower assemblies. Install the rear camshaft bearing caps and tighten to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). On the SOHC engines, oil the camshaft journals and install the camshaft WITHOUT the rocker arm assemblies. Install the camshaft position sensor and tighten the screws to 85 inch lbs. (9.6 Nm).
Carefully push the camshaft as far rearward as it will go.
Set up a dial indicator to bear against the front of the camshaft (the sprocket end). Zero the indicator.
Move the camshaft forward as far as it will go. Read the dial indicator. End-play specification is 0.002-0.010 in. (0.05-0.15mm) for DOHC models, and 0.005-0.013 in. (0.13-0.33mm).
If excessive end-play is present, inspect the cylinder head and camshaft for wear; replace if necessary.
My dodge has electrical issues things working then not working. After looking into it I found two alarm systems and remote start. Then after market stereo converted into control module. I tore out to much and see that something else is wrong. Everything is running all the I’m all wire has been changed to 18 gauge and plugs laying all over. With other plugs put in place … So I’m looking to take it back to original factory alarm. Please help with a wiring diagram of the whole truck? Four months down stuck in my house.. I need a diagram I ordered new harness git ripped off and only got b.my account has been frozen and no way to get to bank. Please please help me with a diagram.
Thank you for your request. If you want all the Premium Repair Manual Information and wiring diagrams that are available for this vehicle that are accessed online right now, follow this link REPAIR MANUAL for just $19.95 you can have full online access to everything you need including wiring diagrams, repair information, factory recall information and even TSB’s ( Technical Service Bulletins ) There are over 30 individual diagrams involved for just the alarm system. alone.
We will not provide you repair manual information or wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle as it may infringe certain copyright laws.
I recently had my front bearings and alignment done at Les Scwabb. Tires rotated and balanced too. Yet, when I drive my truck, ever so often, there is a sound like when ones drive over the grooved pavement on the freeway. Is that the 4×4 transfer case trying to engage while driving?
You may find that the noise happens more often when slowing down or turning. Noises can be difficult to narrow down. While accelerating or decelerating may be an indication of differential pinion bearings going out. While turning may indicate a hub bearing going out. Have not heard of the 4×4 transfer case trying to engage by itself.