1996 Chevy Lumina LS

I just had my lower intake manifold gasket replaced, and the mechanic quit halfway through the job. The next mechanic stripped out a bolt and put in a helia (?) coil, and now my lifter rattles. But the BIG problem is the car has no balls when it’s warmed up. When it’s cold, it still runs like a scalded bear, but as soon as it’s warm, it acts like it’s getting choked. I’ve replaced the TPS, but am worried I also need a MAF sensor and/or EGR valve. The fuel pump checks OK and the CTS seems fine. There are no codes, no smoke, and no fuel or vacuum leaks. Is it possible mechanic #3 hooked something up wrong? How can I be SURE what the problem is before buying another expensive sensor? I see the suggestion of replacing the ETS. If I disconnect the ETS, will it run normally, or crappy also when cold, or will I get a code? The ETS is quite high on the back of the engine, and quite a burden to replace if I don’t have to. If it IS faulty, what will happen if I simply disconnect it? Note that I have a gauge, not a light, for temp. indicator. (The terms ETS & CTS appear to be the same sensor) … GREAT NEWS! My car is running again! I hope they leave this up for people to see … When mechanic #2 installed my rocker cover, he stripped out the head, and put in a coil, causing rocker noise. This was setting off the “knock sensor,” causing the timing to retard. After paying $75 for full diagnostic, I unplugged the sensor, and the car runs great again! If you have new lifter noise (or rod noise) on your GM 3100, and it runs OK when starting out, but gets bad quickly, try this!

1 thought on “1996 Chevy Lumina LS”

  1. Couple of things here. Turn the ignition key “ON” do not Start the engine and make certain the check engine light illuminates. If it doesn’t, you may have some codes to extract. If it does, then you know it is working as it should and you have no HARD codes, but could still have some SOFT codes. If no codes at all… Great.

    Next. I would look to make sure the Engine Temperature Sensor is connected and working. Since the engine seems to run good when cold but acts like it is choking on itself once it warms up, it may be getting a false signal and the computer doesn’t know the engine is warmed up.

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