My car starts instantly from cold start. Idles perfectly until approaching operating temp (80c) and then stalls. After stalling engine will not start again until completely cold, usually several hours.
Faulty ignition component/s. Usually an ignition coil and or ignition module.
My car was stationary and it was hit at roughly 30mph, it moved roughly 12 inches across.
I have had it repaired externally (new bumper) after the incident and before it went in for repair. I drove it a short distance to check for any internal damage. As soon as I started it up a warning came on the dashboard ‘Engine start system:system fault! Please contact workshop’ I also noticed the engine does not turn off unless the key is removed from the ignition. There were no faults showing prior to the accident. The repair center said it had nothing to do with the accident. I have my car booked in to the Audi dealership on the 4th Of April. I wanted advice as it seems a bit coincidental that the fault was not there prior to the accident.
This is something that would need to be addressed with your insurance company. Body shops are not generally equipped to handle auto repair and therefore do not look at such things. Most either farm out the work or don’t even look at it. You are doing the right thing by having an auto repair shop examine it. However without approval from your insurance company you may be stuck with the bill. So make sure they are brought up to speed.
Where is the tone ring or reluctor ring located for the left front speed sensor is it in the wheel bearing or on the half shaft?
Did some research on the internet and through several auto repair manuals to reach no exact answer. An actual visual inspection will be necessary for this one. Follow the speed sensor wire to its location at the wheel.
According to Amazon the correct hub bearing does not have the speed sensor & internal ring.
However theMitchell Manual diagram indicates shows the speed sensor and ring internal with only and external plug.
The Motor Manual shows the vehicle calls for part#89542-30270 which would require an external speed sensor ring. Usually found on the cv-shaft, rotor or back of hub bearing.
Chilton Manual had no useful information in regards to this question.
Looked up the parts for the AWD at Lexus Site: MYLparts.com and it appears the external ABS Speed sensor ring would be external.
Hi! So I have an 04 mustang. When I bought it, it had a vibration when engaging the clutch from a stop, downshifting, and upshifting. So, I figured the flywheel had hot spots in it. So I replaced the clutch and flywheel with new OEM parts. The only thing I didn’t replace was the pilot bearing, because I didn’t have the tool, and it looked, felt fine and smooth when I turned it with my finger. Also, there is no noise I would think is the pilot bearing.
Anyways, I replaced the clutch kit, and flywheel, and I’m still getting the vibration when engaging (letting off of) the clutch, in first and reverse from stop and while up and downshifting. It’s not as bad when the car is moving as it is when you’re pulling out from a stop. I am going to check my u-joints and motor and transmission mounts today, and check pilot bearing fork to see that it’s seated right and looks ok. Any ideas? This kept me up all night trying to go over it in my head. Thanks in advance for your help!
Vibration when letting off clutch
A vibration from hot spots on the flywheel is quite common. This can be a result of hot rodding or using the clutch aggressively. If you paid to have the flywheel replaced, one might want to ask to see the old one to make sure it was actually replaced. If you replaced it yourself, then you already know it actually was replaced.
So now what?
Now we may want to consider that the clutch assembly is not the cause of the vibration. There is a chance that an engine misfire is present. The misfire may be more pronounced when the engine is under a load. This would explain why it is more noticeable when taking off from a stop. It may be worth hooking up a scan tool with active data streaming to check for the misfire. Ford generally will not set a code until the misfire present consistently.
You may want to have the vehicle scanned for any existing transmission codes. This will will take you to the exact source of the issue. It may be as simple as a speed sensor not sending the right signals.
This vehicle is having some transmission shifting issues. Don’t know if it is worth paying to have it fixed. It seems to not fully disengage when stopping and sometimes takes a bit to re-engage when starting to move.
When asking if the vehicle is worth fixing or not there are a few things to consider. Like what was your plan for the vehicle before the issue arose? Drive it till it breaks? Your there. Is it a family inheritance that carries sentimental value? Then money is no object. Based on resale value one must consider other factors such as the condition of the interior and exterior as well as potential mechanical issues lurking in the wake.
If I had to guess what is wrong with it without looking at it, My guess would be a faulty solenoid. However I would start by checking the fluid level of the transmission. Take note of the color and if it is burnt looking a complete rebuild may be necessary. I should also note that some have been successful with simply changing the transmission fluid and filter. This may be something to consider trying if it is in the budget.
Hydraulic Control System
Many new transmissions are electronically controlled. On these models, electrical solenoids are used to better control the hydraulic fluid. Usually, the solenoids are regulated by an electronic control module.
I changed the head gasket and now there is only one click when i turn the ignition and one more when i release it, I can turn the motor manually and I’ve had both starter and battery tested, what could be the problem.
Most likely problem is the battery. Even though it tested good, it can still be bad. That being said, the first thing I would try would be a NEW fully charged battery. If you have then you can check a couple of fuses. The 250A Battery fuse and the 30A Starter Relay fuse. Then test the relay. And check connections at the starter and battery. Since you get a click I would think the PCM is sending a signal to the relay. You can check that as well if you determine the relay is not activating.
I have a 2015 Ford Fusion 2.0L turbo 4 with 75,000 miles on it. Number four cylinder is not getting any signal to trigger the coil pack. It has 12volt and a good ground. This is what I found after the check engine light came on. Checked for codes, the code was, #4 coil/spark plug problem. What can cause this? Is the pcm the only thing that can cause this? There is continuity on all three wires from the coil pack plug to the pcm plug.
The fuse for the back heater blower blows when I start the engine. It will run perfect with the key in accessory position but as soon as the engines started the fuse blows .. please any ideas what the issue could be. Any help will be appreciated.
The rear blower motor fuse (Fuse #28 10 amp) is the fuse you are describing. As a test for the blower motor circuit, remove the rear blower motor relay(RR BLO Relay). If the fuse still blows you for certain it has nothing to do with anything downstream from the relay in that circuit. Use the provided wiring diagram for reference.
1999 Cadillac Seville Rear Blower Motor Wiring Diagram