Multi-function Switch 2003 Ford Sport Trac XLT

 Auto Repair Questions, Ford  Comments Off on Multi-function Switch 2003 Ford Sport Trac XLT
Oct 222019

Ford Explorer Sport TracWhat are they calling a multi switch for the head lights ? Is it the dimmer controal switch?

The headlight switch is called the headlight switch. The turn signal arm(with wiper and high/low beam function) is referred to as a multi-function switch. In your case it would also include the Hazard function.

According to the Repair Manual the headlight switch is located on the dash panel.

How to replace the multi-function switch

Multi-Function Switch, Replace

  1. Insert ignition key into ignition switch lock cylinder and turn to RUN position.
  2. Push ignition switch lock cylinder release tab, Fig. 1, using suitable punch while pulling outward on ignition switch lock cylinder.
  3. Twist tilt wheel handle and shank counterclockwise, then remove shank.
  4. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  5. Disconnect multi-function switch electrical connectors.
  6. Remove multi-function switch retaining screws, then the switch.
  7. Reverse procedure to install.


Labor Time

Labor Time to replace the Multi-function switch is 1.3 hours.

Oct 192019

1979 Toyota Supra

I’ll try to lay this all out as quickly as I can.

I bought the car cheap as a non runner. Actually, it would run, but only for a few minutes and then stall. Starter fluid would get it to run again but only for a few seconds. So it’s a fuel issue. Noid light showed that injectors were firing.

The car had a new fuel pump, so someone already tried that and it didn’t work, and the pump is very noisy. But the filter looked original, so I put a fuel filter on it. That helped quite a bit. The car runs and drives. But when I fill the tank and drive for a bit, the no start condition returns. And the pump is still very noisy. I thought that maybe the plugged fuel filter ruined the new pump, so I put another new pump on, but it too is noisy.

No start is only with a full tank

The no start is only with a full tank. And there is a good bit of pressure in the tank. I was going to check the pick up in the tank again, but as soon as I pulled the return line, pressurized fuel started shooting out. I got the hose back on and took the gas cap off. It vented quite a bit of pressure.

I figured EVAP, so today I drove it for a bit, and pulled the hose off the charcoal canister, but no pressure was released. I took off the cap and a little pressure was released, but not a ton. But the tank is no longer completely full. The gas cap is new, and there is evidence that fuel was leaking from the old cap.

I think that’s it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Does the no start go away if you leave the gas cap off?

Before you mentioned that it only happens with a full tank of gas my thoughts were leaning toward a failing ignition control module. This is a common failure component that tends to stop working when warmed up. Once the car stalls if you let it cool for a while it will start back up.

The next time it won’t start maybe check for no spark condition.

Vehicle shudders while driving between 30 to 50 mph

 Auto Repair Questions, Dodge  Comments Off on Vehicle shudders while driving between 30 to 50 mph
Oct 182019

Dodge Grand Caravan

2012 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L shudders while driving between 30 to 50 mph, there are no check engine lights and no misfire codes. It does not happen all the time its an intermittent problem.

Shudders while driving

My recommendation would be to ad a friction modifier to the transmission. One that I have had good results with is called “Shudder Fix”. It can be purchased online.

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Just add it to your transmission fluid and drive it like you normally do for a least 10 miles. It is an inexpensive fix. In most cases the shudder is in the torque converter lock up clutches not smoothly engaging and disengaging. It will not hurt your transmission.

Will not shift out of second gear

 Auto Repair Questions, GMC  Comments Off on Will not shift out of second gear
Oct 182019

1995 GMC Yukon

My 1998 Yukon 4×4 slt 5.7l will not shift out of second gear. If I drive it hard n hot rod it then it seems to shift Tru the gears like it’s supposed to. The fluid looks dark as well I’m not shur what the problem may be. Cud u please help

First thing to do would be to check to see if there are any codes stored in the computer that might aim us in the correct direction. Post any codes found and we can dig further into that.

Stuck in 2nd gear

Some have suggested that a faulty VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor may cause this issue. Others have run into valve body issues. Still yet there have been claims of faulty shift solenoids causing the same issue. And another has claimed faulty ignition switch caused the vehicle to not shift out of 2nd gear. Others claim a faulty fuse issue. (see video).

The transmission on this vehicle will intermittently default
to second gear. I’ve had other GM trucks do this with ign.
switch problems i.e. low voltage to term. 20 in fuse panel.
However, when this problem occurs the voltage is normal. It
also doesn’t exhibit the speedometer/tachometer problems
normally associated with ign.switch problems on these
vehicles. I did note that when the problem occurs the security
light comes on with no starting problems and I lose scan tool
data stream. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

____________________________ FIX ___________________________

The problem turned out to be the ignition switch, even though
the symptoms were a little different than the ones I’d had in
the past. Voltage drop to 10v on fuse #20 when the fault was
present. Thanks for the help!

Source: Chevy Mechanic: Mike

It’ll crank fine, but doesn’t want to start 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

 Auto Repair Questions, Mercury  Comments Off on It’ll crank fine, but doesn’t want to start 1999 Mercury Mountaineer
Oct 162019

1999 Mercury Mountaineer

I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer, 5.0 V8 with approx. 147k miles. Recently it’s been difficult to start when cold (e.g., sitting overnight in the garage). It’ll crank fine, but doesn’t want to start. Not wanting to stress out the battery, I don’t let it crank long — a second or two — then turn the key off, let it sit a second, then try again. Usually on the 3rd or 4th try it’ll fire right up. Once running, there are no issues.

After it’s been running for as little as 2 or 3 minutes or longer (for example, running errands to different locations), it will fire right up almost instantly, no problem. Plugs and wires have been replaced within the last year, as has the fuel filter.

I’m guessing fuel pump or starter?

Not the starter or it wouldn’t crank over. Possible fuel pump issue.

Lets perform a quick test to confirm it is a fuel related issue. The next time it has been setting over night, cycle the ignition key 4 to 5 times before trying to start it. Turn the key to “ON”(NOT START) and hold for 5 seconds and then turn the key to “OFF” . Repeat this 4 to 5 times. What this is doing is priming the fuel system. Once you have cycled the key several times go ahead and start the engine. It should start right up like normal. If it does then you have successful confirmed the problem is fuel related.

The fuel pressure is bleeding off when it sets overnight. Cycling the ignition key several times activates the fuel pump relay(which only runs for a few seconds) and builds the fuel pressure back up to where it needs to be in order to start.

What do I need to Replace?

The most common failure part that will cause this issue would be a faulty fuel pressure regulator. It calls for about .07 of an hour to replace. Two screws and one vacuum hose and can be purchased for around $40.

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Fuel Pressure Regulator

The fuel pressure regulator  is attached to the fuel rail downstream of the fuel injectors. It regulates fuel pressure supplied to the fuel injectors. The regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve. One side of the diaphragm senses fuel pressure and the other side is connected to the intake manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure is established by a spring preload applied to the diaphragm. Balancing one side of the diaphragm with manifold vacuum maintains a constant fuel pressure drop across the fuel injectors. Fuel pressure is high when engine vacuum is low. Excess fuel is bypassed through the fuel pressure regulator and returned through the fuel return line to the fuel tank.


Is this a good buy? 91 Nissan 240sx fastback

 Auto Repair Questions, Nissan  Comments Off on Is this a good buy? 91 Nissan 240sx fastback
Oct 162019


I plan on buying a 91 240sx, but the issue that the car has is that its ignition timing is off; meaning that it does not run. Also in has 195,000 miles on it. I want this as my project car. Is this a good buy? And what should I expect from a car with 195k miles of that age?

Well, you asked if this was a good buy? Though to answer without the price. If the price is $10,000 then NO, not a good buy. If the price is under $500 and the body is perfect, it is an OK buy considering the unknown factor of the engine and transmission possibly being blown. With it not running there is an infinite number of issues that may be present. And with it setting around from not being running, you may be looking at even more failing parts such as rusted brake and fuel lines, etc.

My recommendation would be to look for one that is already running. It may cost you a little more up front but will be cheaper and less work in the long run.

4×4 Indicator light 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 LS V8 6.0L 4×4

 Auto Repair Questions, Chevy  Comments Off on 4×4 Indicator light 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 LS V8 6.0L 4×4
Oct 162019

2000 Chevy 2500

When my truck idles their is no whine. When my truck warms up and i drive it for a little bit and I stop at a red light or a stop sign and then accelerate that is when the whine starts. It also makes the accelerator vibrate just a little. I have a hydrobooster leak which causes the power steering fluid level to go down. I also have an issue with my 4×4. I have no lights on the indicator and no service 4 wheel drive message either. The indicator has been replaced along with the TCCM. Fuses have been replaced. I got told a sensor but what sensor and where would it be?

Whine Noise

The whine is from the power steering system having air in it. This will continue as long as the leak is not taken care of. The worst case scenario would involve replacing the power steering pump itself.

No 4×4 Indicator Lights

The most likely sensor that would be involved would be the selector switch. There is a chance that the wiring is the issue. Use the wiring diagram below for reference.

Automatic Transfer Case Select Switch Wiring Diagram




Lean Condition 1986 Chevy Camaro 2.8 MPFI

 Auto Repair Questions, Chevy  Comments Off on Lean Condition 1986 Chevy Camaro 2.8 MPFI
Oct 162019


Need help diagnosing lean condition, poor acceleration. Have had two shops try to fix with no luck. Did some parts shot gunning myself but still no change.

In 1986 almost all manufacturers decided to go with excessive vacuum controls on the engine. The most common cause of a lean condition is related to a vacuum leak. With this engine having so many vacuum lines I would start there first and then consider the intake gasket may also be leaking due to age. Lastly check the fuel injectors. There is a technical service bulletin out that concerns the fuel injectors becoming clogged and causing a lean condition and a lack of power.

TSB# 03-06-04-030F


When I close my door  none of the gauges work 2007 Chevy Impala LS

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Oct 162019

2007 Chevy Impala

I hit a super pothole in the street, it has done something to the electric system in the car. when my car door is open, all of my panel gauges work correctly. When I close my door  none of the gauges work and a message pops up constantly telling me my door is open. It also drains my battery in a couple hours. What could be the cause of this and how do I fix it ?

Certainly has to do with the electrical system. Most likely an issue with the door jam button. But may not be limited to just that. In fact it is quite common for the wiring harness that runs between the door and the body to develop an issue. This is in part do to the fact that the drivers door gets opened and closed more often then the other doors. Add in some age on top of that and the wiring becomes brittle.

First look at the wiring harness near the door jam for damage. Next look for shorted and open wiring. Since everything seems to work when the door is open you will need to wiggle the wiring during testing to get the best results.

No power to the switch 1984 Dodge Ramcharger

 Auto Repair Questions, Dodge  Comments Off on No power to the switch 1984 Dodge Ramcharger
Oct 112019

1984 Dodge Ramcharger

My headlights, taillights and dash lights are all not working. There is power to the fuse but not the switch.

With power going to the fuse and no power coming from the fuse, the fuse itself is bad or the wiring from the fuse to the switch is bad.

There is more than one fuse that will need to be checked as well.

  • Fuse #3 (15 amp) is for the turn signals working through the hazards.
  • Fuse #5 (15 amp) is for the turn signals and tail lights
  • Fuse # 8 & #9 (25 amp) are for the head lights and brake lights
  • Fuse #2 (5 amp) is the dash lights

Lights Wiring Diagram 1984 Dodge Ramcharger

lighting wiring diagram 1984 Dodge Ramcharger