For my 84 f-150 351cleveland big block with a 4 barrel edlebrock carb with raised edlebrock manifold and heads. can’t find this part anywhere. It is a pigtail that converts a 3 wire distributor to a 4wire electric Ignition module. 3 prong female end to a 4 prong male end on the module. no-one can figure out what I’m talking about or find the part.
Distributor wiring harness pigtail
I get what you are looking for. Here is an example of what I think you want. However, I did not find the part listed at Jegs or Summit Racing. You may just have to make your own wiring harness.
In 1984 Ford used the Duraspark II system. This refers to the Duraspark II control module with a BLUE strain relief bushing, one 4-pin connector, and one 2-pin connector. Another version of the system has an additional 3-pin wiring connector, and two YELLOW strain relief bushing’s. Source: Handyman Dan
sounds to me like when it’s cold the fluid is thicker of course and is not pumping thru as it should. Might want to at least clean the filter, maybe it’s clogged up and won’t let fluid thru until it gets warmed up or something? Source: Swims350
Transmission will not go in gear when cold
This is a classic symptom of internal hydraulic leakage inside the transmission. As a transmission gets older, the various seals inside of it that keep fluid confined in specific channels tend to become hardened and no longer pliable enough to seal tightly against the shafts, servos, and other components that they are attached to. Often, in warmer weather they may seal enough to allow the transmission to operate somewhat normally. But when colder weather comes this tends to cause them to shrink more and become less pliable because of the lower temperature. After the engine runs while and the transmission fluid warms up, the internal seals and O-rings expand slightly and become slightly more able to do their job.
The repair needed is a transmission rebuild: removing the transmission from the vehicle, disassembling it completely, and installing all new seals, O-rings, and gaskets. Of course this is pretty expensive because of the amount of labor involved….
As a temporary measure, what often helps is to take the vehicle in to a shop to have the transmission flushed; this involves using a machine to push all of the old worn out transmission fluid out and replace it with new fluid. Transmission fluid contains additives that help to keep seals soft and pliable, so replacing the old worn fluid often helps somewhat. Also, adding one of the various transmission stop-leak or seal conditioner products available at any auto parts store to the fluid sometimes is beneficial. These products work by softening rubber components and causing them to swell up slightly; this improves sealing ability, especially when cold. Keep in mind though that this is not a fix; it only buys some time until transmission overhaul is needed. Source: Auto Mechanic: Steve
Rear bumper. What all is involved in removing the rear bumper??? I have a standard bumper but will be putting a step bumper on it. Is there a different mounting bracket for the Step Bumper or is everything the same???
Everything should be the same. Remove four nuts, install the replacement bumper and tighten the nuts.
Generally speaking this has to do with the wheel speed sensors going out. They are mounted inside the wheel hub bearings.
View of the front speed sensor mounting screw (1), hub and bearing (2), routing clip (3) and front wheel speed sensor (4)
“The 05 and 06 models have a lot of issues with the wheel speed sensors for the abs system. A failing sensor will cause the symptoms that you are describing.
Because of excessively high failure rates, Chrysler has re-designed the sensors and for this reason it is necessary to replace all 4 sensors…………even if just one is bad.” Source: Chrysler Mechanic
Anti-Lock Brake System, Inspection
A visual inspection must always be performed to confirm the presence of aftermarket components, potential collision damage, or areas of concern.
The ABS module is self monitoring. The module will carry out a preliminary electrical inspection of the hydraulic pump motor by turning the pump ON for approximately 1/2 second either when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position and the brake pedal is not pressed or when the vehicle is in motion and at vehicle speeds above 12 mph. The ABS module will also carry out a wheel speed sensor self-test by sending a reference voltage to all of the wheel speed sensors through their circuitry when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, with or without brake pedal application. If a fault is detected in the pump or wheel speed sensors, the ABS module will shut down and disable the anti-lock system. Normal power assisted braking, however, remains.
Verify stop lamps operate correctly by applying and releasing brake pedal with ignition switch in OFF position.
Verify that PRNDL operates correctly on instrument cluster.
Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.
If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct cause if possible before proceeding.
Connect a suitably programmed scan tool to vehicle DLC.
Carry out network test.
Clear continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for ABS
Intermittent start in Park. Sometimes need o shift to Drive, then back to Park, then try to start. EBS and ESC lights come on for aperiod of time and then off again.
My guess would be that the starter is causing the issue. Intermittent issues are difficult to diagnose but not impossible. The diagnosis and testing can only be performed when the issue is present. So when it won’t start.
Trying to get power to the Rear View Mirror, so auto dim will work. Have TWO mirrors but neither one works. Compass and out side temp does. Please assist in finding a fuse or relay that is not listed or shown.
Happy to assist you. Lets look at the wiring diagram of the auto-dimming interior mirror. We find three fuses and two relays in the works.
F27 and F35 10 amp fuses
F41 a 15 amp fuse
Reversing lamps relay
Accessory delay relay
Interior Auto-dimming Mirror wiring diagram – 2011 Ford Escape
Back story/what we have done so far. It is a 2003 Buick Lesabre with 102k miles.
Car started “overheating” on us
Car started “overheating” on us, no engine light. Temp gauge would go from reading halfway to all the way in the red within 1 second. Sometimes it would bounce back down right away, sometimes you’d have to turn off car and restart for gauge to normalize. Verified with infrared thermometer that car was not actually overheating, temp was always 190-200. After doing this for 3 or 4 times, engine light came on and car threw itself into limp mode would not go past 3rd gear. Parked the car until coolant temp sensor and thermostat were both changed. Since then been driving the car around for about a month with no temp issues. Temp stays constant at 194. However engine light will not go away, still showing code for coolant temp sensor. Will try to clear code manually and see if if comes back on.
However a new issue has arisen and I am not sure if it’s related. 3 times now when trying to start car after quick errand, car won’t start unless I give her a lil gas. This is not a problem in the morning and not all the time. Only after for example running into the store for about 5 min and coming back out to restart car. If I am gone for longer periods of time like in the store for 30-45 there is no problem starting. Only after turning it off then trying to restart within a few min. After I get it started it runs fine. Temp still ok, no idle issues. Threw some injector cleaner in and will be replacing fuel filter soon. Any thoughts? Are these two issues related?
I do not think the two issues are related. The second issue sounds like a idle air control valve sticking. This issue doesn’t throw a code. But from how you explained being able to press the accelerator pedal a little allows it to start tells me the story. Cleaning and or replacing the IAC Valve should take care of that issue.
Buick Code P0128 – Engine Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
Possible causes for code P0128
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Low engine coolant level
Insufficient warm up time
Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor
Engine coolant temperature sensor harness is open or shorted
Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Description of Problem: I took my 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix to a machanic in Greenville, Texas. It took him about 1 month to have it so called fixed, I drove it home and it seemed fine. It sat for maybe 2 weeks to get the money to have it tagged and inspected.
Well it started slipping again, check the fluid and it’s OK. No leaks, return it back to machanic and he says after having it 2weeks thru the holidays that he would check the filter which I don’t understand why a new wasn’t put on at time of repair.
Anyway while driving sometimes it it won’t shift, and then sometimes it won’t go into gear at all. I have to pull over shut it off and sit a second, then restart it to get it to go.
Any suggestions??? Help please
A clogged transmission filter or faulty transmission solenoid would be my first guess.
Trying to change the starter. can only see 1 bolt holding the starter on. the engine side of the starter is hidden by a cross member. It has some holes that may let me see the other bolt, I’m hoping. Gonna have to jack it up higher to see. what do you think?
3.1L Engine Starter Removal
*NOTE – Upon removal of starter, note if any shims are used. They should be reinstalled in their original location during installation if shims are used.
If starter is noisy during cranking, remove one .015 inch double shim or add one .015 inch single shim to the outer bolt. If starter makes a high pitched whine after firing, add .015 inch double shims until noise ceases.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the starter mounting bolts and lower the starter until the solenoid wiring is accessible.
Disconnect the electrical leads.
Remove the starter.
Install the starter.
Connect the electrical leads to the starter.
Install the starter mounting bolts and tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable.
3.1L Engine (VIN T)
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If equipped, remove the nut from the brace at the air conditioning compressor.
If equipped, remove the nuts from the starter-to-engine brace.
Remove the drain pan under the engine oil pan.
Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit electrical connector and remove sending unit.
Remove the oil filter.
Take out the bolts from the flywheel inspection cover and then the inspection cover.
Remove the bolts from the starter motor.
Remove the starter motor and any shims.
Disconnect the starter motor electrical connectors.
Connect the starter motor electrical connectors.
Install the starter motor and any shims.
Install the starter motor attaching bolts. Tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Install the flywheel inspection cover and attaching bolts.
Install the oil filter.
Attach the oil pressure sending unit. Connect the electrical wire.
Bolt on the drain pan.
Install the nuts to the starter-to-engine brace.
Install the nut to brace at the air conditioner compressor.
The most likely reason for the light to be illuminated would be from the door ajar switch failing. It is a common failure part do to use and age.
According MotorDriven the door jam switch is the door ajar switch(shown above). However, ChiltonLibrary would explain that the door ajar switch is attached to the side of the door latch. Mitchell1 Manual refers to the door ajar switch as part of the door lock actuator(latch). If you look up the latch from Dorman 746-148 it does not have the door ajar switch(2001).
I know from personal experience on a 2002 Ford Ranger, the door ajar switch is mounted on the side of the Door Lock Latch. If you look up the latch from Dorman 746-148 it does not have the door ajar switch. Only thing I can figure is there is an early model and late model Ranger. Therefore determine which switch location you have before replacing the switch.
Door Ajar Switch
Removal and Installation
Remove the front door latch. For additional information, refer to Front Door Latch in this section.