Is the replacement of the drive belt idler pulley on 1994 Volvo 960 L2.9 a do-or-yourself job? I have a belt detentioner and basic mechanical skills. The pulley seems accessible on front of block. Single bolt. Any pitfalls?
How do you access the brake light relay (REM module) in the rear (left) driver side compartment? Seems you must remove the entire panel for unrestricted access. How is that done?
Rear Electronic Module (REM) Replacement Procedure
The REM Module is a separate unit in the relay box located in the cargo compartment.
- Switch ignition off.
- Remove the left side panel in the cargo compartment. HINT: The rear panel in the side panel of the cargo compartment can be removed to change fuses.
- Release the relay and fuse box.
- Remove the screw holding the connector so that it is free of its threads. Check that the screw is free with your fingers.
- Disconnect the connector. Use an open spanner and a support.
- Remove all relays and shunts bridged to the control module. Note the locations.
- Release the catch on the rear. Use a screwdriver.
- Lift and pull out the control module.
REM Module – 2004 Volvo XC90
I have a long standing discharged R12 ac system. I want to charge it with hydrocarbon refrigerant to check it. If I decide to have it recovered after recharging it is the shop liable in reporting it to the EPA?
More importantly, hydrocarbon refrigerant can be used in place of R134a without components or oils having to be changed. Since your system is using the old R12 permanent damage will occur. The entire air conditioning system needs to be flushed. The accumulator and orifice tube replaced before changing over from R12 to Hydrocarbon or R134a Refrigerant.
With your system being as old as it is you are most likely looking at needing to replace the compressor, accumulator and orifice along with flushing the system and replacing the o-rings. This is at a minimum.
Where do the wires that lead to the spark plug lead back to, i know they go from the plug back to the coil then where do they lead to after that?
Volvo Ignition Module
The power stage on the REX-1 and EZ129K systems is combined with the ignition coil into a single unit (Power Stage/Ignition Coil). The ignition coil and power stage are an assembly.
Volvo refers to the ignition control module as the power stage.
On the EZ 115 K and EZ 116 K Systems the the ignition module and coil are separate.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Unplug the power stage connector.
- Unfasten the mounting bolt(s) from the retaining bracket, then remove the ignition coil and power stage.
- Install the coil and power stage and tighten the retaining bolts.
- Plug in the power stage connector.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
how much should it cost to replace the distributor on car, i have the parts, labor and timing should be all needed
Distributor Cap And/or Rotor, Replace
Distributor Cap And/or Rotor, Replace (b)
NOTE: This procedure pertains to gasoline engines only.
The distributor performs two functions within the ignition system. Its breaker points or impulse sender (electronic ignition) time the collapse of the magnetic field of the ignition coil in relation to engine speed and convert primary voltage (12 volt) to secondary (high) voltage. The rotor and cap then distribute the high voltage spark to the correct spark plug.
The distributor incorporates both centrifugal and vacuum ignition timing mechanisms. Centrifugal advance is controlled by two weights located beneath the breaker plate. As engine speed increases, centrifugal force moves the weights out from the distributor shaft and advances the ignition by changing the position of the cam in relation to the shaft. This advanced positioning of the cam will then open the breaker points sooner and ignite the air/fuel mixture quickly enough in relation to piston speed. Centrifugal advance is necessary because as engine speed increases, the time period available to ignite the mixture decreases. (For example, at idle speed the ignition setting is, perhaps 10°BTDC. This is adequate for the spark plug to ignite the mixture at idle, but not at 2,500 rpm. The weights, governed by springs, move out at a predetermined rate to advance the timing to match engine speed.)
Centrifugal advance is not sufficient to provide the proper advance under all conditions, and so we also have vacuum advance. Under light load conditions, such as very gradual acceleration and low speed cruising, the throttle opening is not sufficient to draw enough air/fuel mixture into the cylinder. Vacuum advance is used to provide the extra spark advance needed to ignite the smaller mixture. The round can on the side of the distributor is the vacuum advance unit. The rubber hose supplies vacuum from the intake manifold to draw on the diaphragm in the unit which is connected by a link to the breaker plate in the distributor. Under part-throttle operation, the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate or impulse sender as necessary to provide the correct advance for efficient operation.
no spark at coil have replaced ckp coil ecu and power state out of ideas
According to the wiring diagram the coil receives its power through the Radio Interference Suppression relay. I recommend checking this relay if you are not receiving voltage at the coil. Use the wiring diagram below as reference to help understand the circuit.
Engine wiring diagram 1994 Volvo 9401994-volvo-940-engine-controls-1-of-2
While turning over the engine by hand, if my rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire position will the engine always be at or near TDC? The rotor will point at a different plug wire (4 in this case) when cylinder 1 is at exhaust stroke, correct? Does it have timing marks?
You are at top dead center(TDC) when the #1 Piston is all the way up and both exhaust and intake valves are closed. When continuing to rotate the engine past TDC, the next valve that will open should be the exhaust valve.
- Remove the timing belt cover as outlined previously.
- To remove the tension from the belt, loosen the nut for the tensioner and press the idler roller back. The tension spring can be locked in this position by inserting the shank end of a 3 ⁄ 32 (3mm) drill bit through the pusher rod.
- Remove the six retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the belt, taking care not to bend it at any sharp angles. The belt should be replaced routinely at 45,000 mile intervals, or anytime it becomes oil soaked or frayed.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft marks prior to removing the timing belt — B230F engines
- If the crankshaft, idler shaft, or camshaft were disturbed while the belt was off, align each shaft with its corresponding index mark (to assure proper valve timing and ignition timing) as follows:
- Rotate the crankshaft so that the notch in the crankshaft gear belt guide aligns with the embossed mark on the front cover (12 o’clock position).
- Rotate the idler shaft so that the dot on the idler shaft drive sprocket aligns with the notch on the timing belt rear cover (four o’clock position).
- Rotate the camshaft so that the notch in the camshaft sprocket inner belt guide aligns with the notch in the forward edge of the valve cover (12 o’clock position).
- Install the timing belt (don’t use any sharp tools) over the sprockets, and then over the tensioner roller. Loosen the tensioner nut and let the spring tension automatically take up the slack. Tighten the tensioner nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
- Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution clockwise, and make sure the timing marks still align.
- Reverse Steps 1–3 to install.
This car has 170,000 miles on it. One injector seems to be stuck open. When power is cut to the fuel pump, it will run until the fuel line is drained.
Is it possible that the injector is bad, or is it more likely that it is stuck open as the result of another problem?
I think you are right in your diagnosis. Fuel injectors do go bad and stick in the open position.
Identify the failed fuel injector.
- Remove all spark plugs
- Turn key to the on position- cycling the key may be required
- Take note to which cylinder fills with fuel
READINESS MONITORS/DRIVE CYCLES
HO2S and Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness
NOTE: All readiness monitors are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the
ECM/PCM is cleared with a scan tool.
Drive Cycle Procedure
1. Connect the scan tool.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. The MIL must be OFF.
4. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
should be greater than 41°F (5°C).
5. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
should be within 10 degrees of each other.
6. Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure.
7. Most OBD monitors will complete more readily using a steady driving style during
the acceleration and cruising modes. Operating the throttle in a smooth method
will help ensure and assist completing the monitors.
8. The fuel tank should be between ½ and ¾ full with ¾ full being the most desirable
9. Start and idle the engine for five (5) minutes with the A/C and rear defroster ON.
10. Turn the A/C and rear defroster OFF and idle the engine until the Engine Coolant
Temperature (ECT) sensor reaches a minimum of 170°F (76° C).
11. Begin driving and accelerate the vehicle until the vehicle speed is 56 mph (90
12. Release the accelerator pedal and keep it released for 10 seconds or more.
13. Accelerate again until the vehicle speed is at 56 mph (90 km/h) and continue
driving the vehicle at 53 – 60 mph (86 – 96 km/h) for 10 minutes.
14. Check the monitor for “COMPLETE” status. If the monitor status is not
“COMPLETE”, go to the next step.
15. Decrease vehicle speed to 0 mph (0 km/h).
16. Let the vehicle idle at 0 mph (0 km/h) 60 seconds.
17. Accelerate to 30 – 35 mph (50 to 55 km/h).
18. Drive the vehicle between 30 – 35 mph (50 – 55 km/h) for 5 minutes.
19. Decelerate to 0 mph (0 km/h).
20. Let the vehicle idle at 0 mph (0 km/h) for 45 seconds.
21. Drive the vehicle at 53 – 60 mph (86 – 96 km/h) for 5 minutes, holding the
accelerator pedal very steady. Monitor the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
voltage; it should be between 0.8V and 1.2V.
22. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
23. Let the vehicle idle at 0 mph (0 km/h) for 45 seconds.
24. If the readiness monitor is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If
there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat
25. Allow the vehicle to sit (key OFF) for 8 hours and repeat the procedure.
Hello I have a 2004 Volvo xc70 and was wondering if it is possible to put a remote starter in it while using the original factory keys?
Of course you can install a remote starter on a Volvo xc70. The remote starter uses a key thob to activate the starter. The thob can be easily attached to any set of keys or carried separate.
2004 Volvo xc70 starting system wiring diagram
Use the wiring diagram to help assist you if you decide to install a remote starter on your xc70 yourself. Make sure to disconnect the battery before you start installation. Follow the instructions provided from the manufacturer of the remote starter. Test the operation several times to insure you won’t have any issues once you leave home.2004-volvo-xc70-starting-circuit
car stalls when I turn on air conditioning