I blew upper radiator hose. Could a bad heater core cause that?
I am wanting to check my transmission fluid level and possibly change the fluid and filter but am unable to locate the dipstick or fill port. The engine is a 3.6 liter and the transmission is the 41TE type. Any advise… TKs..
I only show this model coming with a 62TE transmission. Must use Mopar Automatic Transmission Fluid Plus 4 or equivalent. Will require 5.50 qts for service.
Your vehicle does not have a dipstick installed from the factory. A special tool is used to check the transmission fluid level. The transmission Oil Dipstick (special tool #9336A, Dipstick) has indicator marks every 10 mm. I have double checked to make sure this one will fit your 2012 Chrysler Town And Country. Comes complete with instructions.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.
MOPAR® ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.
I started having issues with my A/C system a while ago. It was not very strong in general and when I drove long distances, after about 20 minutes, there would be on and off cold air.
When I connected a manifold, the values with the engine off were fine but once I turned the engine on, the low side would immediately go into “retard” while the high side would read about 145 psi.
In the past, I hit an object in the front of my car, so I knew that the condenser might have an issue. It was a little bent and with a thermometer, I saw a significant difference in temperature in areas right next to each other, therefore I replaced it. However, since it still gave me the same readings, I also exchanged the compressor. The clutch had been working (actually constantly running) but I never heard it humming.
Still having the same readings.
What else could be the problem? The TXV, evaporator or orifice tube? How can I test them before attempting to replace?
Anytime you replace the Air Conditioning compressor the manufacturer recommends that you flush the entire system. The manufacturer also requires that the orifice tube and accumulator/expansion valve be replaced at the same time. If this is not done the manufacturers warranty is void. With that in mind if you are getting a higher reading there may still be a restriction.
I turn my Air Conditioning on max, or any other setting and cold air comes out the main middle vent for about a minute. Then it quits and the air comes out of the defrost vents for a few minutes. And them it starts coming out of the main vent again for just a few minutes to the top and comes out of the defrost vents only. This cycle continues. What is the problem? Thanks for your time. Jeff Duty
The system is designed to divert to defrost when the control panel looses vacuum and this is usually caused by a vacuum leak in the supply line to the controller. Start by locating the vacuum reservoir under the dash on the passenger side and make sure the hose is connected and has good vacuum to it.
The reservoir is #2 in the diagram. If you find good vacuum at the reservoir and no leaks then the control panel will need to be remove and further testing done.
|1||W701696||Vacuum reservoir screw|
|3||—||Vacuum connector (part of 18C581)|
I recently bought this 2002 GMC Envoy. It was sitting for around 6 months after the previous owner had a problem with it and couldn’t afford to fix it. My Envoy did not come with any sort of chipped key and the key I have will work in the ignition but not to unlock the doors. It cranks but won’t start. And the shifter locks and wont go into any gear. Is it the passkey security issue with it? I’ve check fuel pump and it’s working but no fuel at the fuel rail. So I’m figuring it’s got to be something to do with the security system. Is there a way to bypass that for now so I can at least get it started and check for it to run before spending all the money on a new passkey? Any hints or tips would sure help. Thank you very much.
The Passlock™ System is provided in order to prevent vehicle theft if the ignition lock cylinder is forced to rotate or the ignition switch is operated while separated from the ignition lock cylinder case. If starting is attempted without authorization from the Passlock™ System, the powertrain control module (PCM) will disable engine starting. Start disable may be in the form of fuel disable or starter disable, depending on engine application.
The components of the Passlock™ System are as follows:
The ignition lock cylinder fits inside the ignition lock cylinder case and operates the ignition switch when turned by a key with the proper mechanical cut. When the ignition key is used to turn the ignition lock cylinder to crank, start, a magnet on the lock cylinder passes close to the Passlock™ sensor within the ignition lock cylinder case. The magnet activates the security hall effect sensor in the Passlock™ sensor which completes a circuit from the security sensor signal circuit through a resistor to the security sensor low reference circuit. The resistance value will vary from vehicle to vehicle.
If a magnet from outside of the ignition lock cylinder case is used to attempt to steal the vehicle, the tamper hall effect sensor will be activated. This completes a circuit from the security sensor signal circuit through a tamper resistor to the security sensor low reference circuit bypassing the security resistor. If the ignition switch is forced to rotate without the correct key, or if the ignition lock cylinder is removed by force, the Passlock™ sensor will be damaged and will not operate.
The ignition switch contains the wiring and electrical switching portion of the column mounted ignition assembly. The switch includes wiring pigtails which connect it to the base of column connector, the Passlock™ sensor on the ignition lock cylinder case, and other components. The wiring for the Passlock™ sensor is unaffected by ignition switch position. The electrical switch portion is operated by the key and lock cylinder when they are rotated within the ignition lock cylinder case. The ignition switch operates the crank relay regardless of the status of the Passlock™ System.
The body control module (BCM) contains the logic of the Theft Deterrent System. The BCM provides the battery positive voltage to operate the Passlock™ sensor. The BCM also measures the voltage of the security sensor signal circuit. The voltage measured will indicate whether the Passlock™ sensor has been activated and whether the resistance value from the sensor is a valid value or the tamper value. If voltage measured is in the valid range, the BCM compares this voltage, voltage code, to a previously learned voltage code. If the voltage codes match, the BCM sends a class 2 message containing a password to the powertrain control module (PCM). When the voltage codes do not match, or the voltage is in the tamper range, or there is a circuit fault, the BCM will not send the correct password to the PCM, and the vehicle will not start.
The powertrain control module (PCM) contains the remainder of the logic of the Theft Deterrent System. If a class 2 message containing a valid password is received from the body control module (BCM), the PCM will continue to allow the fuel injectors to operate. The PCM will allow the fuel injectors to operate until it decides there is no valid password coming from the BCM. If the PCM does not receive a class 2 message, or receives a class 2 message with an incorrect password, the engine will crank and will not run or will start and stall immediately.
The IPC illuminates the theft deterrent indicator as determined by the theft deterrent system. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the BCM requesting illumination.
When it receives a password which is incorrect or a password which indicates tamper and the powertrain control module (PCM) disables the fuel injectors, the fuel injectors remain disabled for 10 minutes even if the ignition switch is turned from the RUN position to the OFF position.
The following components contain codes or passwords, or must learn codes or passwords for the Passlock™ System to allow the vehicle to start:
If any of these parts are replaced, a learn procedure must be performed. Refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components . If parts are replaced and a learn procedure is not performed, the engine will crank and will not run or will start and stall immediately.
AC condensation is dripping into the passenger side floorboard.
This is an indication of a clogged evaporator drain plug in the air conditioning system. It is quite common for leaves and dirt to build up and clog this drain. When the drain becomes clogged the condensation builds until it leaks into the passenger floor. You may be able to just slip a screw driver up in the end of it and unclog it. This is easier to get to from underneath.
This a close up of what the tube looks like.
Car is overheating after replacing the radiator, radiator fans, water pump and thermostat. The is fan not working on the passenger side and ac blows hot on one side and cool on the other side.
It sounds like you have more than one problem going on. Neither problem is related to the other. One problem ids the engine overheating. The other problem is the AC blows hot in one side.
This is pretty common after the cooling system has been worked on. Air is often trapped inside the system and needs to be bled out.
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This is very common of a failed blend door actuator. Replacing the failed actuator will take core of the air conditioning problem. The AC will blow cold out both sides once again.
Tighten the left air temperature actuator screw to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).
My Peugeot dose not start so l replaced ECU ,the engine started for one day and then will not start
My son replaced his radio yesterday and now the jeep will not crank. He has tested the battery, alternator, and starter. He has also checked the spark plugs. He replaced the ignition switch and the jeep seems like its trying to crank but it is not turning over. He is thinking this may be related to something electrical.
He, your son, is most likely correct in thinking it is something electrical. It worked just fine before it was worked on. So most likely a fuse was blown or a wire shorted during the installation of said radio. Checking all the fuses is a safe place to start. Then move on to double checking all the work done during the radio replacement.
I have a 2003 liberty engine. I was wondering if there will be any setbacks, problems, or augmentations I will have to make to have it fit into my 2002 liberty.
As long as the engine size is the same(2.5L, etc) there should be no issues whatsoever.