I’m looking for an under hood engine wiring diagram or schematic for my 2007 Dodge Charger. Somebody thought they’d rewire everything on a 2.7L. I finally got it to fire but does some coughing n dies. I’m thinking they have injectors and coil packs wired in wrong spot. Can ya help ?
Seems like I can probably help. Therefore I will add the engine diagrams below. There are 5 in total that cover the 2.7L engine for the Sixth generation 2006-2010. In addition, feel free to purchase the entire Auto Repair Manual that includes a complete set of wiring diagrams.
I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 and received a pinion nut recall notice. The recall notice for the pinion nut possibly coming loose. I have a noise while accelerating at all speeds and a noise on decelerating from 20 to 30 mph. Could the pinion nut cause this? I think it sounds like the pinion bearings are bad. Could a loose pinion nut cause bad bearings? Also if it is a loose pinion that caused bad bearings or any other damage will that damage be repaired under the recall or will I have to pay out of pocket?
Yes, a loose pinion nut would cause damage to the pinion bearings. With that in mind, when the bearings are damaged it puts metal into the entire rear differential. This could also cause damage to any bearings in the differential. Any damaged cause by this failure should be covered under the Recall. If rear axle recondition is required and additional 5 hours will be required. However, additional time may be necessary depending on service schedules.
Pinion Nut Recall Notice P77 / NHTSA 14V-796
Vehicles Affected: Approximately 256,000 model-year 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4×4 and 4×2 pickup trucks manufactured Jan. 28, 2004, to Aug. 3, 2005
The Problem: Affected pickups were assembled in such a way that the rear axle pinion nut can loosen and possibly detach from the driveshaft, potentially causing axle lock up and increasing the risk of a crash.
The Fix: Dealers will install a retention clip, free of charge, that will not allow the axle nut to loosen.
What Owners Should Do: Chrysler will begin notifying owners beginning Feb. 13. Owners can call Chrysler at 800-853-1403 or the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236 for more information.
I have a 2005 ram 1500 with the 4.7l engine. Recently I have developed an issue with a low oil pressure warning. Only when the engine has warmed to operating temperature and only when coming to a stop. As soon as I stop my RPM’s drop almost as if it is going to stall at the same time the warning for low oil pressure starts to go off. If I press on the gas pedal the warning stops. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit but the problem hasn’t been resolved. Someone told me it could be that the screen on the pickup tube could be clogged. I was also told there was an issue with the pickup tube not being wide enough and that it clogs quite easily and that replacements tubes have been made to remedy that.
So my questions are:
1. What are the most likely culprits for this issue?
2. Would it be best to start by pulling the pan and inspecting the tube and screen or is this issue more serious? If the screen is clogged is it easy to clean or should it be replaced
3. Is there any truth to there being an issue with the width of the pickup tube?
The engine requires a certain amount of oil pressure. It needs 10 psi for every 1,000 rpms. Now if the engine is idling lower than normal and when you give it a little gas the light goes out, I would think that it is OK for now. Determine why the truck isn’t idling as it once was. It may be from a vacuum leak, failing/sticking idle speed control, clogged air filter, faulty O2 Sensors or gummed up throttle body.
Where to Start
First if the check engine light is on, address that first and post any codes it has stored below in the comments. No codes, move to the things that are free and easy to tackle. Check the air filter and intake hose clamp connections. Then clean the throat of the throttle body. Spray starting fluid or brake wash on a rag(NOT INTO THE THROTTLE BODY) and wipe the throat and edges of the butterfly. This should increase air flow enough to raise your idle. If this still doesn’t correct the issue you may still want to replace the pick up tube.
I am thinking myth to the larger pick up tube. The engine didn’t have this issue before and the pick up tube didn’t shrink. But I did do a little research on the oil pick up tube anyway. It turns out in 2006 Dodge opted to enlarge the oil pick up tube on the 4.7L engine. It is said that the 2006+ Pick up tube will flow better and faster.
“Commonly the tensioner plastic tab breaks and winds up in the pickup tube screen area, or the sludge gets too thick in the pan and cuts off flow to the pump, you’ll see when you get in there…”
I have read that Melling offers an exceptional replacement. I looked one up and double checked to make sure it would work on your engine. Better to replace than to try and clean.
I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L, it makes rattling noise when the engine is running. It has 133,000 miles on the odometer. It doesn’t overheat, the water gauge is less than half. I don’t know if the noise comes from water pump/power steering/AC/Belt. It has no coolant leaks. Changed the thermostat cause it was not heating fix it, Any advice..??
The first thing I would recommend would be to determine if the engine rattling noise is internal or external. There is a quick way to find out. Remove the belts from the engine. Once the belts are removed, start the engine for a brief moment. If the rattling noise is still there, you know it is internal in the engine. If the noise is gone, you know it has to do with one of the components that associate with the belt. Withe the belt off, spin the pulleys and listen for any abnormalities. This will help indicate the problem component.
Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on proper belt tension. Belt tensioning should be performed with the aid of Special Tool 7198. Because of space limitations in the engine compartment, the use of this gauge may be restricted. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and the remove the splash shield to gain access to the drive belts, if necessary. Adjust belt tension for either a New or Used belt.
The drive belts are a Poly-V type belt . Belt widths vary depending on the various engine and accessory packages. Satisfactory performance of these belts depends on belt condition and proper belt tension.
The accessory drive belts form the link between the engine crankshaft and the engine driven accessories.
I installed all new brakes. I upgraded from 2.5 to 3 inch brake shoes. Installed new wheel cylinder on Left Rear. Had both drums turned. Left rear shoes wouldn’t compress enough but did manage to get drum on. Bled all brakes. Parking brake has slack, star adjuster is threaded to end but it think shoes are rubbing on drum making the springs have a ringing noise when driving. I backed up hitting the brakes to adjust but don’t know it that was enough. Question; why don’t shoes compress another 1/4″ and then be able to adjust everything?
These brake shoes are manufactured to fit many applications. In some cases you may need to modify them. If you need another 1/4 inch will can modify them. Grind the ends where they fit into the adjuster slots. You can remove 1/16 inch from both shoes and test. If you need more, then go another 1/16 of an inch. Best to take as little as possible as it is easier to remove then to add.
Adjusting Brake Shoes for Drum Brakes
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation, as i.e., taking off brake drums.
To adjust the brakes, follow the procedures given below:
Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
When the brakes are adjusted make several stops while backing the vehicle, to equalize the brakes at both of the wheels.
Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle. Road test the vehicle.
Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
Using and inside caliper check the inside diameter of the drum. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030″ less than the brake drum inner diameter.
3.2 i was driving then i smelled burning wire followed by the car over heating and running hot i looked under the hood found a couple spots of wire that need to be fixed and it doesn’t wasn’t to start its trying to but its just not catching someone told me timing how do i check the timing chain with out taking the whole front end apart
If you feel the timing is the issue, a quick test I use is a compression test. This lets you know a valve is open when it shouldn’t be.
My truck will not idle and there is water coming out both exhaust pipes, what would cause this?
A small amount of water coming from the tail pipes is an indication the catalytic converters are working correctly. A heavy amount of water and or accompanied with white smoke is an indication of a blown head gasket.
Of course checking for any computer codes would be a good place to start diagnosing any engine issue.
You will need to contact the manufacturer of the motor home to get an accurate diagram and manual. They consist of many aftermarket components known only to the manufacturer. (ex. Jayco, Fleetwood, Jamboree, etc.)
I just replaced the brake line from back to front on a 2000 dodge ram 1500 2 wheel drive with 5.2 motor. I cant seem to get it to bleed at all. Even the pump the brakes up and open the bleeder valve or hand vacuum pump will not seem to work. Is there any thing I’m doing wrong ?
No, Just takes a long time to get the fluid to move that far. Start on the furthest corner from the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure the reservoir is full. You can gravity bleed, connect a vacuum pump or use the pump the brake pedal method. Pump the pedal and hold pressure while someone else cracks the bleeder then closes the bleeder before you let up on the brake pedal. May need to be repeated a bunch of times. Once you see fluid at this corner move to the next and repeat until you have fluid at all four corners. Make sure to keep an eye on the brake fluid level so it doesn’t run dry or you will need to start over. You will not get full pedal until you take care of all four corners.