Dec 122016

2009 Dodge AvengerSo first off thank you. It started when me and my bro where driving down hill in the rain/snow and wrecked. I lost control, slid into a ditch and hit a tree on the passenger side. We are both OK. But we had to get someone to pull us out. After we got out I drove 5 blocks to his house where we took off the passenger tire and replaced it with the spare. So far the damage I know is the passenger wheel is destroyed and drivers is popped. The fender it’s very dented, the mold and trim prob, the axle might be messed up but the breaks are making noise.

The bumper, the head light cover, the mirror, a little bit of the hood, and the door all on the left are damaged. Also I was told something snapped behind the wheel. I think it’s the lower control arm(maybe)or this part.

Wrecked Rear Control Arm 2009 Dodge Avenger
There might be a bit more and somethings might not be as bad. In conclusion What ever info you can give me to now how much it will cost or what I should do with it. Thanks again and contact me as soon as u can.


Wrecked My Car, What Now?

Have a body shop give you an estimate after looking the car over. The body shop can determine if the car needs to be put on a frame rack. They will also give you an itemized repair estimate that will show you the parts and labor costs. If you have full coverage insurance they may decide it is better to total the car instead of repairing it. Once a car is wrecked it is a good idea to have a hands on mechanic give it a good look. Most insurance companies today require an inspection after a car has been wrecked.

Dec 082016

2013 Dodge AvengerMy car died while I was driving it. Lost fuel. At first thought my gauge was off and tried putting gas in and it tries but won’t start. My brother said the fuel pump wasn’t kicking on. He checked all the fuses, relays and tested to see if power was going to the fuel pump. (It was) He thought the fuel pump went bad so we bought a new one. We put it in and still won’t kick on. The store we bought it from has had problems lately getting in faulty parts so I’m wondering if we got a bad one or if it could be something else. He also checked to see if I have an inertia switch that may have been flipped but he could not locate one.


I would try applying power to the fuel pump outside of the vehicle to see if it works. If it does, you know it is not the fuel pump. If it doesn’t you know to get a different one. Also make sure you are checking for Battery POSITIVE and Battery NEGATIVE. Would hate to think all that is wrong is a bad ground wire connection.


Nov 212016

2002 Dodge DakotaI have 2002 Dodge Dakota. I was driving home and the cluster stopped working.  All the gauges bottom out and the dash lights came on and now it says No bus and 920,921,and 999 at the bottom left corner. And the AC stopped at the same time. Can you point me in the right direction?
Thank you


What you have is no communication between the instrument cluster and the other control modules in the vehicle. The truck uses a two wire communication system and if one of those wires goes out then the whole system is down. Most common is a mouse chewed through one of the bus wires on your truck and it needs to go to the dealership because they are the only ones who can properly diagnose a bus failure. It requires the use of a DRB III. Another cause may be from corrosion in the wires and or wiring harness connections.

Testing for codes 920, 921 and 999

Check in clean the connections at the underwood power distribution center disconnect the terminals clean and Henry tighten them also remove the fuses and the relays one at a time and reinstall them cleaning the terminals as you go,The BUS voltage originates from the IC. Begin by unplugging all of the modules that are on the BUS circuit, while monitoring the BUS voltage.
These include Powertrain Control Module , Central Timer Module, Controller Anti-Lock Brake , Overhead Console, Radio, Air bag Control Module . Leave the IC plugged in for this test.
When the BUS voltage returns to approximately 2.5 volts, the module that was disconnected last is the bad module, replace it

The BUS voltage can be tested at the Diagnostic Link Connector at pin 3 Violet/Brown and pin 11

Nov 202016

2005 Dodge StratusI have a 05 Dodge Status SXT four door automatic. Installed a new radio just happened to touch all the wires together. Now the radio sounds great. But now I have no power windows, no A/C, some panel lights and no backup lights. I have been told a thousand times it’s the IOD fuse but search everywhere truck hood inside under I need and need an image.


The IOD Fuse is located inside the left end cap of the instrument panel.

All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse that is disconnected within the Junction Block (JB) when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. Dealer personnel are to reconnect the fuse in the JB as part of the preparation procedures performed just prior to new vehicle delivery.

IOD Fuse location diagram

IOD Fuse Installation

  1. Push on fuse until completely seated.
  2. Install the cover to instrument panel end cap.
Nov 082016

2000 Daodge CaravanRear latch handle does not work. You can open it from the inside through a hole. Do I need a latch handle or an actuator or both?


you will need to remove the panel and inspect the latch handle to see if anything has become detached or broken. If the handle is broken then replace the handle, etc.

Nov 052016

Dodge ChargerI’m looking for an under hood engine wiring diagram or schematic for my 2007 Dodge Charger. Somebody thought they’d rewire everything on a 2.7L. I finally got it to fire but does some coughing n dies. I’m thinking they have injectors and coil packs wired in wrong spot. Can ya help ?


Seems like I can probably help. Therefore I will add the engine diagrams below. There are 5 in total that cover the 2.7L engine for the Sixth generation 2006-2010. In addition, feel free to purchase the entire Auto Repair Manual that includes a complete set of wiring diagrams.

Engine Wiring Diagram

Wiring Diagram 2.7L Dodge Charger – 1


Wiring Diagram 2.7L Dodge Charger – 2


Wiring Diagram 2.7L Dodge Charger – 3


Wiring Diagram 2.7L Dodge Charger – 4


Wiring Diagram 2.7L Dodge Charger – 5

Oct 282016

2005 Dodge Ram 1500I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 and received a pinion nut recall notice. The recall notice for the pinion nut possibly coming loose. I have a noise while accelerating at all speeds and a noise on decelerating from 20 to 30 mph. Could the pinion nut cause this? I think it sounds like the pinion bearings are bad. Could a loose pinion nut cause bad bearings? Also if it is a loose pinion that caused bad bearings or any other damage will that damage be repaired under the recall or will I have to pay out of pocket?


Yes, a loose pinion nut would cause damage to the pinion bearings. With that in mind, when the bearings are damaged it puts metal into the entire rear differential. This could also cause damage to any bearings in the differential. Any damaged cause by this failure should be covered under the Recall. If rear axle recondition is required and additional 5 hours will be required. However, additional time may be necessary depending on service schedules.

Pinion Nut Recall Notice P77 / NHTSA 14V-796

Vehicles Affected: Approximately 256,000 model-year 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4×4 and 4×2 pickup trucks manufactured Jan. 28, 2004, to Aug. 3, 2005

The Problem: Affected pickups were assembled in such a way that the rear axle pinion nut can loosen and possibly detach from the driveshaft, potentially causing axle lock up and increasing the risk of a crash.

The Fix: Dealers will install a retention clip, free of charge, that will not allow the axle nut to loosen.

What Owners Should Do: Chrysler will begin notifying owners beginning Feb. 13. Owners can call Chrysler at 800-853-1403 or the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236 for more information.

Oct 252016

2005 Dodge Ram 1500Oil Pump Pickup Tube Issue?

I have a 2005 ram 1500 with the 4.7l engine. Recently I have developed an issue with a low oil pressure warning. Only when the engine has warmed to operating temperature and only when coming to a stop. As soon as I stop my RPM’s drop almost as if it is going to stall at the same time the warning for low oil pressure starts to go off. If I press on the gas pedal the warning stops. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit but the problem hasn’t been resolved. Someone told me it could be that the screen on the pickup tube could be clogged. I was also told there was an issue with the pickup tube not being wide enough and that it clogs quite easily and that replacements tubes have been made to remedy that.

So my questions are:

1. What are the most likely culprits for this issue?
2. Would it be best to start by pulling the pan and inspecting the tube and screen or is this issue more serious? If the screen is clogged is it easy to clean or should it be replaced
3. Is there any truth to there being an issue with the width of the pickup tube?


The engine requires a certain amount of oil pressure. It needs 10 psi for every 1,000 rpms. Now if the engine is idling lower than normal and when you give it a little gas the light goes out, I would think that it is OK for now. Determine why the truck isn’t idling as it once was. It may be from a vacuum leak, failing/sticking idle speed control, clogged air filter, faulty O2 Sensors or gummed up throttle body.

Where to Start

First if the check engine light is on, address that first and post any codes it has stored below in the comments. No codes, move to the things that are free and easy to tackle. Check the air filter and intake hose clamp connections. Then clean the throat of the throttle body. Spray starting fluid or brake wash on a rag(NOT INTO THE THROTTLE BODY) and wipe the throat and edges of the butterfly. This should increase air flow enough to raise your idle. If this still doesn’t correct the issue you may still want to replace the pick up tube.

Oil Pump Pickup Tube 2005 – 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L

I am thinking myth to the larger pick up tube. The engine didn’t have this issue before and the pick up tube didn’t shrink. But I did do a little research on the oil pick up tube anyway. It turns out in 2006 Dodge opted to enlarge the oil pick up tube on the 4.7L engine. It is said that the 2006+ Pick up tube will flow better and faster.

“Commonly the tensioner plastic tab breaks and winds up in the pickup tube screen area, or the sludge gets too thick in the pan and cuts off flow to the pump, you’ll see when you get in there…”

I have read that Melling offers an exceptional replacement. I looked one up and double checked to make sure it would work on your engine. Better to replace than to try and clean.

Oct 202016

2002 Dodge Grand CaravanI have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L, it makes rattling noise when the engine is running. It has 133,000 miles on the odometer. It doesn’t overheat, the water gauge is less than half. I don’t know if the noise comes from water pump/power steering/AC/Belt. It has no coolant leaks. Changed the thermostat cause it was not heating fix it, Any advice..??


The first thing I would recommend would be to determine if the engine rattling noise is internal or external. There is a quick way to find out. Remove the belts from the engine. Once the belts are removed, start the engine for a brief moment. If the rattling noise is still there, you know it is internal in the engine. If the noise is gone, you know it has to do with one of the components that associate with the belt. Withe the belt off, spin the pulleys and listen for any abnormalities. This will help indicate the problem component.


Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on proper belt tension. Belt tensioning should be performed with the aid of Special Tool 7198. Because of space limitations in the engine compartment, the use of this gauge may be restricted. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and the remove the splash shield to gain access to the drive belts, if necessary. Adjust belt tension for either a New or Used belt.


The drive belts are a Poly-V type belt . Belt widths vary depending on the various engine and accessory packages. Satisfactory performance of these belts depends on belt condition and proper belt tension.


The accessory drive belts form the link between the engine crankshaft and the engine driven accessories.

Oct 172016

1979 Dodge B300I installed all new brakes. I upgraded from 2.5 to 3 inch brake shoes. Installed new wheel cylinder on Left Rear. Had both drums turned. Left rear shoes wouldn’t compress enough but did manage to get drum on. Bled all brakes. Parking brake has slack, star adjuster is threaded to end but it think shoes are rubbing on drum making the springs have a ringing noise when driving. I backed up hitting the brakes to adjust but don’t know it that was enough. Question; why don’t shoes compress another 1/4″ and then be able to adjust everything?


These brake shoes are manufactured to fit many applications. In some cases you may need to modify them. If you need another 1/4 inch will can modify them. Grind the ends where they fit into the adjuster slots. You can remove 1/16 inch from both shoes and test. If you need more, then go another 1/16 of an inch. Best to take as little as possible as it is easier to remove then to add.

Brake Shoes Adjuster

Adjusting Brake Shoes for Drum Brakes

The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation, as i.e., taking off brake drums.

To adjust the brakes, follow the procedures given below:

Drum Installed
  1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
  3. Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
  4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
  5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
  6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
  7. When the brakes are adjusted make several stops while backing the vehicle, to equalize the brakes at both of the wheels.
  8. Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle. Road test the vehicle.
Drum Removed

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
  2. Using and inside caliper check the inside diameter of the drum. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
  3. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030″ less than the brake drum inner diameter.
  4. Install the drum.