Differential seal damage
Can a rear end collision cause damage to my rear end differential seal? Rear ended at light. 35-40 mph no brakes. Looking back at child.?
Overheated bad. Since it wont start and water coming out of tailpipe. Why don’t it start and what can I do?
This is a classic description of a blown head gasket. and just about all you can do is have it fixed.
The van has the 3.3l problem is hit pothole and van shut down. I have check battery(good) there is an open circuit causing a bad drain. Battery reads 11.55v and drops to 5v when you turn key on or even open the door. I have run all the test that I could find. Checked harness, relays, fuses and grounds. Also switched relays. There is 10v showing at the IOD fuse with fuse out. With fuse out there is no drain until you turn key on (no dash lights). And then battery drops to 5v and the ASD clicks after key is off. It wont stop unless you disconnect battery. With fuse in and nothing on the battery drops to 5v. thank you.
UPDATE: found the problem. it was a frayed crankshaft position sensor wire. those dodge engineers are stupid. who would have figured that that wire would cause all that trouble with van not even on.
My Dakota is a standard shift. When you try to start the truck in 1st gear it jumps forward then nothing. I have bought a slave cylinder and tried to bleed it. But I wasn’t getting any pressure in the pedal so I bought a clutch master cylinder. I bleed the cylinders again got a whole bunch of air because where they were new. But I was still having the same issue. So I took the slave cylinder off and pumped it with my hand. It got real stiff so I put it back in then the clutch had a lot of pressure but it still jumped when I tried to start it.
So I tried to bleed it again. When I bled it all the pressure was lost in the pedal. After a few minutes it came back so I tried to start it again still it jumped forward. Ive been dealing with this process for about 8 days now. I had an inspection hole cut into the transmission everything is in their right place. I’m not sure what else too try.
This is a common issue when dealing with a failed slave cylinder. It is almost impossible to get the air out of the system. This is why the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are replaced as an assembly. The Auto Parts stores desk jockeys won’t tell you this when they sell you the part separate. I have found ordering the assembly from a dealership and installing it was the ONLY way to get a pedal.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder is mounted on the firewall and is fed fluid via gravity from a remote reservoir. The master cylinder mounting nuts are inside the cab. The torque for the nuts is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). Torque for the reservoir nuts is 95 inch lbs. (10 Nm). The slave cylinder is mounted on a bracket on the left side of the transmission. Mounting nut torque is 200 inch lbs. (22 Nm). The clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines are serviced as an assembly only. The linkage components cannot be overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and connecting lines are filled and factory sealed.
The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on the clutch housing flange
one taillight fails to work on brake light and turn signal. Taillight bulb is working. turn signal and brake light blink once and then fail. Socket has been changed, still not working. what would cause this
Could be any part of the circuit. Bad wiring harness or connections. Possibly a bad component. Looking at the diagram provided it is clear that some testing with a multi-meter might be in store. If you have had any sort of trailer wiring installed, look there first.
I installed a new head light switch. I disconnected battery before starting the replacement. When I finish getting the new switch in and prior to totally putting the dash panel back in I reconnected the battery to see if the switch was operating correctly. I noticed when I started the truck that the instrument panel cluster wasn’t working. I checked all fuses and found one 20 amp fuse for St light blown. I replaced it and found all lights working but still no instrument panel. What else do I need look at?
The instrument panel utilizes 4 fuses. I would check those first. Use the diagram below to assist you in your diagnosis.
I have a lot of brake dust on rims, we have replaced calipers, brake pads, rotors, every 3 to 4 months. just wandering if there’s something else were missing
Sounds like you are driving with two feet or are using the cheapest brake pads available. Brake pads should not be worn out inside of 3 months. If you have found the brake calipers sticking, the caliper hoses may be the cause.
To help reduce the amount of brake dust you will want to use a quality ceramic brake pad. This should cut down on the amount of dust you are seeing.
cranks but I have no spark
Follow the steps in the No Start Diagnostic Chart.
My battery and engine light came on last night while I was driving what could be wrong with my car?
The battery light indicates the battery is no longer being charged. Typically this means the alternator has failed. It may also mean the alternator belt has come off but a loss of steering is usually noticed as well if this happens. Since the engine light came on as well it may be an indication of the same issue. When the engines computer no longer has sufficient battery voltage it will not function properly. Having the computer scanned will show any stored trouble codes.
Changing alternator and my old alternator stuck in the engine. I have removed the bolts, belt and clips, but it still won’t come out. What do I do?
Once you are certain you have removed all retaining bolts it may be necessary to use a pry bar. Slide the pry bar behind the alternator and bracket or engine. You shouldn’t have to use too much force but some none the less.
If the alternator is loose but you are having difficulty getting out of the engine bay there is hope. Remove the Dipstick tube first. Then roll the alternator and remove. See below for complete auto repair manual instructions for replacing the alternator.2002-dodge-caravan-alternator-removal-and-installation