My car runs for an hour and then poops out and must sit for another hour (rest) and then will start back up just fine. feels like flooding out? if you hit gas when it’s pooping out, it will immediately die. It been like this for over a year. very frustrating. plez help. I’ve ask every male I see, get a lot of laughs about it, but no help. it’s not funny to me.
The most common reason for this would be a failing ignition control module.
When it will not start you can check for loss of spark or fuel. A quick test I like to use is to spray starting fluid in the air filter to see if it tries to start. If it does you know it is not getting fuel. If it doesn’t then most likely you do not have spark.
Ignition Control Module
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL
Remove the coil secondary cable from the distributor cap. Using a suitable tool, hold end of cable about 1⁄ 4 in. (5mm) from good engine ground. Crank the engine and look for good, constant spark at the coil secondary wire. If the spark is constant, have a helper continue to crank the engine while moving the coil secondary cable away from ground. Look for arcing at the coil tower. If arcing occurs, replace the coil. If no arcing occurs, the ignition system is producing the necessary high secondary voltage. Make certain this voltage is getting to the spark plugs by checking the distributor rotor, cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs. If all check in good condition, the ignition system is not the cause of the problem.
My 2003 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins 4×4 has a 48re auto transmission. When I put it into drive I feel it go in and sometimes everything is fine. Other times the truck will barley move until it gets up to speed(15 mph) and shifts into 2nd then its all good. My question is, is this internal or a solenoid going bad. The truck sat for a couple of months while I recovered from surgery but before that everything was fine…
Checking the transmission fluid level and color will give you the answer to your question. If the color of the fluid is pretty redish/pink than it would be a sensor/solenoid issue. You may have codes stored. If the color is dark or burnt, there is an internal issue that may require a rebuild. And of course if the fluid level is low, topping it off and testing would be prevalent.
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC’s) are codes stored by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) that help us diagnose Transmission problems. They are viewed using the DRBIII® scan tool.
Always begin by performing a visual inspection of the wiring, connectors, cooler lines and the transmission. Any obvious wiring problems or leaks should be repaired prior to performing any diagnostic test procedures. Some engine driveability problems can be misinterpreted as a transmission problem. Ensure that the engine is running properly and that no PCM DTC’s are present that could cause a transmission complaint.
If there is a communication bus problem, trouble codes will not be accessible until the problem is fixed. The DRBIII® will display an appropriate message. The following is a possible list of causes for a bus problem:
open or short to ground/battery in PCI bus circuit.
internal failure of any module or component on the bus
Each transmission diagnostic trouble code is diagnosed by following a specific testing sequence. The diagnostic test procedures contain step-by-step instructions for determining the cause of a transmission diagnostic trouble code. Possible sources of the code are checked and eliminated one by one. It is not necessary to perform all of the tests in this book to diagnose an individual code. These tests are based on the problem being present at the time that the test is run.
If the TCM records a DTC that will adversely affect vehicle emissions, it will request (via the communication bus) that the PCM illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Although these DTC’s will be stored in the TCM immediately as a 1 trip failure, it may take up to five minutes of accumulated trouble confirmation to set the DTC and illuminate the MIL. Three consecutive successful OBDII/EURO III trips or clearing the DTC’s with a diagnostic tool (DRBIII® or equivalent) is required to extinguish the MIL. When the TCM requests that the PCM illuminate the MIL, the PCM sets a DTC ($89) to alert the technician that there are DTC’s in the TCM. This must also be erased in the PCM in order to extinguish the MIL.
Any Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) that is set whenever the system or component is monitored is a HARD code. This means that the problem is there every time the TCM checks that system or component. Some codes will set immediately at start up and others will require a road test under specific
conditions. It must be determined if a code is repeatable (Hard) or intermittent before attempting diagnosis.
ONE TRIP FAILURES
A One Trip Failure, when read from the TCM, is a hard OBDII/EURO III code that has not matured to the full 5 minutes. This DTC can take up to five minutes of problem identification before illuminating the MIL
A diagnostic trouble code that is not there every time the TCM checks the circuit or function is an intermittent code. Some intermittent codes, such as codes are caused by wiring or connector problems. However intermittent Speed ratio codes are usually caused by intermittent hydraulic seal leakage in the clutch and/or accumulator circuits. Intermittent speed ratio codes can be set by intermittent speed sensor circuitry or by line noise being induced onto one or both of the speed sensor signal circuits. Problems that come and go like this are the most difficult to diagnose, they must be looked for under the specific conditions that cause them.
STARTS SINCE SET COUNTER
The Starts Since Set counter counts the number of times the vehicle has started since the most recent DTC was set. The counter will count up to 255 starts. Note that this counter only applies to the last code set.
When there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored in memory, the DRBIII® will display NO DTC’s PRESENT and the reset counter will show STARTS SINCE CLEAR = XXX.
The number of starts helps determine if the diagnostic trouble code is hard or intermittent.
If the number of starts is less than 3, the code is usually a hard code.
If the number of starts is greater than 3, it is considered an intermittent code. This means that the engine has been started most of the time without the code recurring.
TRANSMISSION TROUBLE CODE ERASURE
A Diagnostic trouble code will be cleared from TCM memory if it has not reset for 40 warm-up cycles.
A warm-up cycle is defined as sufficient vehicle operation such that the coolant temperature has risen by at least 22Â° C (40Â° F) from engine starting and reaches a minimum temperature of 71Â° C (160Â° F).
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will turn off after 3 good trips or when the DTC’s are cleared from the TCM.
Last year my wife’s 1995 Dodge Stratus didn’t start when she tried to come home from work. I looked at it and she didn’t have spark or fuel. Figured it was the crank sensor so I replaced it and everything seemed fine. Then the A/C stopped working and the car started to die intermittently. Sometimes it would die while she’s at a light sometimes it would die driving down the road sometimes it would die just idling. I checked the check engine light codes and got back code 71, code 33 twice, and code 23.
-Code 71 is PCM output voltage low.
-Code 33 is Air conditioning clutch relay circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the compressor clutch relay circuit.
-Code 23 is Intake air temperature sensor voltage out of normal range.
After months with no success tinkering, I decided just to buy the engine control module. I put the new module in and the codes went away. The car was running fine, A/C and all, until a couple of days ago. The car is not dying intermittently like it was but the A/C is out and the CEL has the same codes: code 71 code 33 twice and code 23. I also observed the occasionally while checking codes the CEL will stay solid and the cruise light will come on and stay solid then CEL codes would start flashing from the beginning. Please help!
I would start with one code and see if you can take care of it one at a time. The only thing in common with all three codes other than the PCM would be the wiring and or connection. This vehicle is quite old and the wiring harness would be as well. The Air Conditioning may just be a sticking relay.
Code 23 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor measures the temperature of the intake air as it enters the engine. The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse width and spark advance. As the intake air temperature varies, the IAT sensor’s resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the PCM.
On all vehicles except 1996–98 models with the 2.0L SOHC engine, the IAT sensor threads into the intake manifold. On 1996–98 vehicles equipped with a 2.0L SOHC engine, the IAT and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors are combined into a single sensor which is attached to the intake manifold.
Code 23 Testing Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Visually check the connector, making sure it is attached properly and all of the terminals are straight, tight and free of corrosion.
With the ignition key OFF, detach the wire harness connector from the IAT sensor.
Connect a digital ohmmeter (DVOM) to the sensor terminals. The ohmmeter should read as follows:
With the engine and sensor at normal operating temperature, about 200°F, the DVOM should read about 700–1,000 ohms.
With the engine and sensor at room temperature, about 70°F, the DVOM should read about 7,000–13,000 ohms.
My 1994 Dodge Caravan 3.0 runs for an hour, chugs and poops out, and must sit (rest?) for another hour before it will start back up and run fine. if you hit the gas when it’s pooping out, it will immediately die. Been like this for over a year. I ask everyone ’bout problem, get a lot of laughs, but no solution or advice. please help…thx much, barb
Most common reason for this would be a failing ignition component. Your ignition system consists of a PCM, Coil and Distributor. The most common ignition component to fail is the distributor. Luckily the entire distributor does not need to be replaced. Underneath the distributor cap and rotor is the ICM – Ignition Control Module. The ignition control module is the most common failure part. It starts to break down once it starts to heat up and once it has time to cool down, it works just fine. The ignition system in your vehicle has the ignition control module built into the distributor. Looked up the ICM – Ignition Control Module you need. Double checked to make certain the ignition component will fit the 3.0L engine that is in your Caravan.
Ignition Component for Dodge Caravan
The Hall effect pick-up ignition system is used in conjunction with an engine controller, also referred to as a Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) for 1988–89, a Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) for 1990–91, a Single Board Engine Controller II (SBEC II) for 1992, and a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for 1993–95. The SMEC, SBEC, SBEC II or PCM controls the entire ignition. The engine controller gives the capability of igniting the fuel mixture over all operating conditions, by delivering an infinite amount of variable electronic spark advance curves.
The Hall Effect Pick-Up ignition system consists of an engine controller (SMEC, SBEC, SBEC II or PCM), a conventional (but pointless) distributor, a Hall effect pick-up, an ignition coil, an Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay, and primary and secondary ignition wiring.
I have a strange problem with the Air Conditioning on my 2000 Dodge Durango with 360 engine. The AC works fine until the vehicle is driven for about 45 minutes. Then the AC quits blowing cold air. If you turn it off for about 15 minutes or so, when you turn it back on it works great for another 45 minutes. Please help. This problem has my local Midas shop baffled and those guys can usually fix anything.
I have come across this one time over 12 years working on air conditioning issues. This is a good one. It turned out to be a sticking relay. It was causing the compressor to continually run. If you pop the hood when it quits blowing cold you should see the Accumulator covered in ice. The system is freezing and once it has time to thaw back down it starts to work again.
My speedometer will not work. And my abs and brake light is on. I asked a local mechanic. And he said to change the speed sensor on the transmission. I did that. Still not working. Changed the speed sensor on the rear tandem still not working. Any ideas?
The ABS and Brake light can come on for several reasons. Make sure the brake fluid level is full. This can make both light illuminate and may be a separate issue from the speedometer. There are two speed sensor s on the transmission. The Input Speed Sensor is on the left front of the transmission and the Output speed sensor is on the left rear of the transmission. The rear wheel speed sensor is in the Differential housing. and there are to front wheel speed sensor located inside the front hub bearings. The hub bearings are common failure parts. The front speed sensor failure would also cause the ABS and brake light to illuminate.
The speedometer gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the vehicle road speed. This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The speedometer is an air core magnetic unit that receives battery current on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board through the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Start positions. The cluster is programmed to move the gauge needle back to the low end of the scale after the ignition switch is turned to the Off position. The instrument cluster circuitry controls the gauge needle position and provides the following features:
Vehicle Speed Message – Each time the cluster receives a vehicle speed message from the PCM it will calculate the correct vehicle speed reading and position the gauge needle at that relative speed position on the gauge scale. The cluster will receive a new vehicle speed message and re-position the gauge pointer accordingly about every 88 milliseconds. The gauge needle will continue to be positioned at the actual vehicle speed position on the gauge scale until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position.
Communication Error – If the cluster fails to receive a speedometer message, it will hold the gauge needle at the last indication for about three seconds, or until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position, whichever occurs first. After three seconds, the gauge needle will return to the left end of the gauge scale.
Actuator Test – Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the speedometer needle will be swept to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in order to confirm the functionality of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the vehicle speed sensor to determine the vehicle road speed. The PCM then sends the proper vehicle speed messages to the instrument cluster. For further diagnosis of the speedometer or the instrument cluster circuitry that controls the gauge. For proper diagnosis of the vehicle speed sensor, the PCM, the PCI data bus, or the electronic message inputs to the instrument cluster that control the speedometer, a DRBIII® scan tool is required.
Recently, I have been driving and while accelerating into 3rd gear, the car jerks, then I gear a thumping noise… What could this be?
Since the thumping noise doesn’t occur until you accelerated into top gear I think it may be transmission related. It would be a good idea to check the transmission fluid level and make sure it is full and looks nice and clean. If the fluid looks dark or burnt, there may be a more significant internal problem. Could be a solenoid sticking internally in the transmission. There may be a code stored that may assist in locating the exact issue. The Dodge Magnum came with 2 different transmissions, the 42RLE and the NAG1. You may want to have a reputable transmission shop perform the computer diagnostics with there scan tool since they are kinda of expensive. An average scan tool will not pull transmission codes, they just pull engine codes. If by chance you do have a good scan tool that will extract transmission codes here are the procedures to follow.
42RLE PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
42RLE PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission problems. If the fluid level is low locate and repair the leak then check and adjust the fluid level per the Service Information.
Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to avoid false symptoms.
With the scan tool, read Engine DTC’s. Check and repair all Engine DTC’s prior to performing any transmission symptom diagnostics.
With the scan tool, read Transmission DTC’s. Record all DTC’s and 1 Trip Failures.
Diagnose 1 Trip Failures as a fully matured DTC.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors. Repair as necessary.
Perform the Shift Lever Position Test. If the test does not pass, refer to Symptom test for P0706 Check Shifter Signal.
For Gear Ratio DTC’s, check and record all CVI’s.
Most DTC’s set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Verify flash level of Powertrain Control Module. Some problems are corrected by software upgrades to the Transmission and Engine software.
42RLE TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1
1. After completion of the Transmission Verification Test, the Powertrain Verification Test must be performed.
2. Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
3. Reconnect any disconnected components.
4. With the scan tool, erase all Transmission DTC’s, also erase the PCM DTC’s.
5. Perform *PRNDL FAULT CLEARING PROCEDURE after completion of repairs for P0706 CHECK SHIFTER SIGNAL.
6. With the scan tool, display Transmission Temperature. Start and run the engine until the Transmission Temperature is HOT, above 43° C or 110° F.
7. Check the transmission fluid and adjust if necessary.
8. If the Powertrain Control Module or Torque Converter has been replaced, or if the Transmission has been repaired or replaced, it is necessary to perform the scan tool Quick Learn Procedure.
9. If the Powertrain Control Module or Front Control Module has been replaced you must reset the Pinion Factor in the Front Control Module.
10. Road test the vehicle. With the scan tool, monitor the engine RPM. Make 15 to 20 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 upshifts. Perform these shifts from a standing start to 45 mph with a constant throttle opening of 20 to 25 degrees.
11. Below 25 MPH, make 5 to 8 wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st gear. Allow at least 5 seconds each in 2nd and 3rd gear between each kickdown.
12. For a specific DTC, drive the vehicle to the Symptom’s When Monitored/When Set conditions to verify the DTC is repaired.
13. If equipped with AutoStick®, upshift and downshift several times using the AutoStick® feature during the road test.
14. Use the EATX OBDII task manager to run Good Trip time in each gear, this will confirm the repair and to ensure that the DTC has not re-matured.
15. Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) during the road test. If a DTC sets during the road test , return to the Symptom list and perform the appropriate symptom.
16. Erase P0700 DTC in the PCM to turn the MIL light off after making transmission repairs.
NAG1 PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission problems. If the fluid level is low, locate and repair the leak then check and adjust the fluid level in accordance with the Service Information.
Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to avoid false symptoms.
With the scan tool, read the engine DTCs. Check and repair all engine DTCs prior to performing transmission symptom diagnostic procedures.
With the scan tool, read and record all Transmission DTCs.
If the TCM detects and stores a DTC, the TCM also stores the vehicles operating conditions under which the DTC originally set and is located in scan tool under Environmental Data. Before erasing any stored DTCs, record any available data to assist in duplicating the conditions in which the DTC originally set.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors. Check connectors – Clean/repair as necessary.
Most DTCs set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Verify flash level of transmission controller. Some problems are corrected by software upgrades to the transmission controller. Verify no variant DTCs are present. If variant DTCs are present, perform their re spective test first.
If the TCM (EGS) is flashed, perform a EGS initialization with the scan tool to relearn variant coding.
NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1
Reconnect any disconnected components.
Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
With the scan tool, erase ABS DTCs.
With the scan tool, erase PCM DTCs.
With the scan tool, erase TCM DTCs.
With the scan tool, display the Transmission temperature. Start and run the engine until the Transmission temperature is above 43° C (110° F).
Check the Transmission fluid and adjust if necessary. Refer to the Service Information for the proper Fluid Fill procedure.
If internal repairs were performed and the shift quality is still poor, it may be necessary to check the internal repair.
If the TCM (EGS) is flashed or replaced, with the scan tool, perform a EGS initialization to relearn variant coding.
If internal transmission repairs are performed or replacement of the Transmission Control Module, perform a TCM ADAPTATION procedure. (Refer to 8 – ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES/TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE – STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ROAD TEST PROCEDURE
Road test the vehicle. Make fifteen to twenty 1–2, 2–3, 3–4, and 4–5 upshifts.
Perform these shifts from a standing start to 72 Kmh (45 MPH) with a constant throttle opening of 20 to 25 degrees.
With speeds below 40 Kmh (25 MPH), make five to eight wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st gear. Allow at least 5 seconds each in 2nd and 3rd gear between each kickdown.
I was coming home last night and my van just died on me and it wont start. It ran fine all day long until then. The oil light is on and I checked the oil. It was a little low. This is the first time that its done this.
I’m wondering if the oil light was on while you were driving before it died? But we will move on anyway. Anytime the engine will turn over but will not start you need to determine why. You need to determine what is missing. There are four basic things an engine needs in order to run.
I had a slight delay when I hit the gas at a stop light. I drive an hour to and from work. When I got close to home, I smelled rotten eggs. What can cause a rotten smell and will it last 2 week’s until I can get it fixed? There are 162,040 miles on it.
The rotten smell is coming from the catalytic converter. This happens when the engine is running rich and the converter is overloaded. If driven too long the converter will melt internally and clog. Not a good idea if you can avoid it. Also the rich condition is usually accompanied with a check engine light code. Your local auto parts store should be able to pull these codes for free. Have any issues repaired and the smell should go away shortly. Two weeks would be pushing it, but It shouldn’t leave you stranded. The fuel mileage will be horrible though.
I have a 1987 Dodge D-150, 5.2L, automatic transmission, 2WD, and would like to know if I could put a 5.9L motor in and still have the transmission bolt up without changing it out?
The blocks are the same, just the 360 is bored out to a larger displacement. So yes the transmission should bolt right up without any issue.
V8 Engine identification number location — 1985–88 vehicles
There is a quick way of telling the small block 318 and 360 cu. in. V8s from the 400 and 440s. On the 318 and 360s, the distributor is at the rear of the engine, while the 400 and 440 cu. in. V8s have it at the front.