Jul 312017

1991 Isuzu Trooper

Motor runs hot

My motor runs hot and looses coolant at about 2 quarts a week. I see no puddle of coolant underneath or any where. I’ve had the radiator, pressure cap and thermostat replaced. It starts fine cold but when hot, it doesn’t start up quickly but it does start, almost every time.

Most likely scenario is the engine has a blown head gasket.

You can rule out an external leak by using a pressure tester tool and pressure testing the cooling system. This will allow you to see if the leak is external or internal. Since you are pressure testing you can remove the spark plugs to see if coolant comes out the holes.

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How to pressure test the cooling system

  1. Top off cooling system radiator and overflow when engine is COLD
  2. Attach pressure tester and build pressure to radiator cap limit (usually between 15-17 lbs will do)
  3. Let stand under pressure and observe any external leaks
  4. If no external leaks are found but pressure is still dropping, Re-leave pressure from tester and remove spark plugs.
  5. Build pressure back up and observe spark plugs holes for coolant coming out.
Jul 212016

2003 Isuzu RodeoHi, I have a 2003 Isuzu Rodeo 2WD, V6, 3.2L
I had a bad coolant leak and located the problem that was a bad rubber O-ring on the heater bypass hose. So, I tore down the intake manifold, replaced the O-ring, new manifold gaskets, and new thermostat, put it back together and decided to try and locate a squealing noise that recently started occurring as well. Replaced drive belt that had some wear and the idler pulley that had a ceased bearing in it. Drove it for a week just fine but I noticed a gurgling sound in my heater core, so I figured it had air in the system and needed burped. To no avail, I couldn’t get all the air out, further investigation I found another small leak coming out of the weep hole in the water pump, hence why it wouldn’t burp.
I replaced the water pump and a new timing belt. Did the timing by the book, meaning I had the number 2 piston at top dead center, the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft gear with the v-notch in the 3 o’clock position lined up with the “I” stamp on the oil pump. Rotated the RH cam shaft several times until it sprung into place on the timing mark. Rotated the LH cam several times until it landed on the threaded bolt hole, and then rotated it an additional 90 degrees to line it up with the timing mark on the valve cover. Put new timing belt on with perspective marks, put crankshaft pulley back on and locked it down, pulled pin from tensioner, put number 2 spark plug back in, hooked up battery, started vehicle briefly. Check engine light is flashing and vehicle shakes, put it in gear to put a load on it, shakes more and acts likes it going to stall but doesn’t.
It seemed to me that it was a misfire happening or it could not be in time exactly. I took it all back apart and repeated the timing steps 3 more times and I am still getting the same results with the check engine light flashing and vehicle shaking. I did notice that my spark plugs were a little black, and the top white part looked burnt, it was about 6 months ago that I last changed them, not sure if this is a contributing factor and hoping that a valve is not bent, but that would be an extreme to the equation, but I’m not a professional mechanic by trade, hence why I am asking for your help. I’m stumped, if it’s in time to the “T” by the book, then why am I getting those results?


Unfortunately this engine is an interference engine. This means if the timing was set incorrectly the valves could be bent or damaged. Removing all the spark plugs and performing a compression test would identify what cylinders may be affected. It sounds like your timing should be good. A good rule of thumb is to rotate the engine several times, after setting the timing marks, and double check to make sure the marks still line up. I have seen the marks line up only to move one tooth once the tensioner is released. Sometimes you need to set it one tooth back so that when you release the tensioner it will line up correctly. Hopefully this is the issue and not valve damage.

Timing Belt Replacement 2003 Isuzu Rodeo

Nov 092015

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Vehicle would turn on then shut off, got a more mechanical person to check out the problem and they told me its the fuel pump. got a new fuel pump, but now (and I saw the video of this he recorded) the pipes that lead into the fuel assembly are rusted and need replacing. I am told it is called the fuel assembly or fuel hanger assembly. I wanted to order the part online, but cannot find anything other than one that fits a Rodeo of the same year in a parts store online. My question is: can the fuel assembly for the rodeo, fit my trooper? in this case are they interchangeable? It would save my life if it does. If not, where can i find the part other than a junk yard. Where can i find it online?

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Jul 042015


Jul 032015

ABS light is on, I read that you can jump between pin 4 & 12 of the data link connector and read codes on ABS light blinks. Tried it and did not work. Looked at connector and doesn’t look like there is a pin in cavity #4. have Snap On scanner but will not read ABS. Please Help

Jul 022015

I have no power to the fuel pump with key in run position. I do have power to pump in start position. Have replaced key cylinder and ignition switch. Any ideas? Car will not run, need help!! Thank you!!

Jun 252015

car has 1/4 tank of gas.it will start if you turn key on and wait 30 seconds.will run for about 30 seconds and then it will die.

Jun 012015

I have an 2002 Isuzu rodeo 6 cylinder. Friday it kept loosing power to everything except motor no radio, power windows, no gaubes worked, no a/c, and automatic transmission at first would work as long as you changed it manually then got to where it would not get out of 2nd and only go about 20mph. It had to be jumped when shut off, parked it for the night and next morn went and put a diff battery in it and it drove normal to auto zone they tested my old battery said it was good then checked battery and alternator in it and said the alternator was going out and it was done draining battery in it before I got back home everything quit working but motor. I went to take out old alternator and found wires that were corroded so I fixed them and reconnected them when my wife went to crank it, it arced bad out of old alternator then no longer would even try to turn over. Took old alternator to auto zone and when they tested it a red light came on there machine and then machine shut off so it was def bad. I went and put the new one in with no problem, but still nothing but headlights and dash lights work. There is no clock which is always on even with no keys, no radio, no a/c, no tail lights, no door or dome lights, and will not even turn over at all, battery is fully charged, alternator is new and tested good, and I tested all fuses on dash and in fuse box under hood and nothing was blown, but still only have headlights, and dash lights, and can hear what I think is fuel pump cutting on. Does anyone have any idea what might could be the problem and how I might can fix it, its the only car my family has and I do not have the money to take it to a mechanic