About 3 months ago started acting like no power for about one second then would kick back in. About two weeks ago it started not wanting to shift into 4th gear and after two less than a mile drives since it jerks like a manual first time learning driver shifting into 4th gear (mostly in auto not so much when in manual mode). Once into 5th gear it’s fine as like 1-3rd gears. Just going into 4th. I’m disabled and need to get this fixed doe my weekly doctor’s visits. One mechanic said need new transmission, another said “it’s normal and gas saver lol” which we know that’s not the case if it’s never done it before. Ive read a wave plate or solenoid. Did find one very very very small hose leaked front drivers side lower hose by front quarter panel / bumper area but it’s so minute it’s not low. Don’t want to buy new transmission if not necessary. Thank you for your time. Exhausted Grammy.
The best first course action would be to have the transmission codes read at a Transmission specialty shop. This should tell you the exact problem area. If the transmission fluid color looks good, my guess would be a faulty/sticking solenoid. This is a common failure part that exhibits the symptoms you are describing.
I changed the head gasket and now there is only one click when i turn the ignition and one more when i release it, I can turn the motor manually and I’ve had both starter and battery tested, what could be the problem.
Most likely problem is the battery. Even though it tested good, it can still be bad. That being said, the first thing I would try would be a NEW fully charged battery. If you have then you can check a couple of fuses. The 250A Battery fuse and the 30A Starter Relay fuse. Then test the relay. And check connections at the starter and battery. Since you get a click I would think the PCM is sending a signal to the relay. You can check that as well if you determine the relay is not activating.
2 days ago a light on dash flashed Change Engine Oil. When light came on engine developed a severe misfire and lifters started chattering. What is the most likely cause(s),and how much is repair most likely to cost.
Difficult to say without looking at it. Check the engine oil level. If there is no oil detected you may add oil to see if the chattering decreases. Until the issue is narrowed down it would be premature to put a price tag on it.
Understand and validate customer concern. Inspect visible system components for obvious damage or conditions that may cause concern.
Inspect for related bulletins, recall/field actions and preliminary information.
Verify symptom is not exclusively a mechanical concern.
Connect a suitably programmed scan tool, perform vehicle DTC Information function and verify at least one control module communicates with scan tool.
Verify there are no control module Internal hardware performance DTCs set.
Ignition ON, command MIL ON and OFF with scan tool. MIL should turn ON and OFF as commanded.
Ignition ON, command MIL ON and OFF with a scan tool while observing following control circuit status parameters:
a. MIL control circuit low voltage test status.
b. MIL control circuit open test status.
c. MIL control circuit high voltage test status.
d. Each parameter should toggle between OK and Not Run or Not Run and OK.
Ignition OFF, disconnect MIL electrical harness connectors. Ignition ON, MIL should not illuminate. If MIL is illuminated, test MIL control circuit terminal for a short to ground. If circuit tests normal, replace cluster.
Ignition ON, connect a 3A fused jumper wire between MIL control circuit terminal and ground. MIL should illuminate. If MIL does not illuminate, test MIL control circuit for a short to voltage, or an open/high resistance. If circuit tests normal, replace MIL bulb.
If all circuits/connections test normal, replace ECM.
Only clicks when try to start. Rotate engine by hand and it goes a quarter turn and stops in either direction. Any idea what could cause that?
First Remove all spark plugs before trying to rotate the engine by hand. This engine has a timing chain. So if you have recently been working on it, the timing may be off and the piston is hitting the valves. Under normal circumstances this will not occur. If the engine was making a lot of rattling before it stopped running, it is possible that there is an issue with the timing chain guide(2 & 4) or timing chain itself has broken.
Driver side seat will not heat. Is there a quick way to find out what the root of the problem is whether it be in the switch, a fuse/relay, or the heating element itself? I had a local mechanic tell me once I’d be better off finding a new seat in a junk yard than to try to buy parts to fix it. Thought I’d get a second opinion.
When you press the button on the door to activate the heater, the red light does come on but does not heat. The AC part of the seat cooler does work, but the heater part does not. Thanks for your help.
Generally there is a Body Code that will be stored. A Dealership or well equipped mechanic shop should have a scan tool that can pull the codes that will help guide you to the root of the problem without guessing. No easier way than that.
Ok, I’ve had this starting problem for a long time. When I turn the key it just clicks once and nothing. I have changed the starter, the alternator. the ignition, because it would turn with out a key (which lead to it being stolen about 6 months ago, the ignition switch the dimmer switch(high beam, low beam switch) because it was not working any more, the turn signal switch, tried running a wire (purple wire) with the correct gauge straight from the battery to the solenoid and that worked, once. When I changed the starter, that worked once as well. I also got a new battery. What else could it be? Oh, I changed all the fuses too. I also replaced the battery cables. added 2 grounds as there was only 1 going to the frame, so I added 1 to the engine and 1 to the body.
This just started one day I was driving turned it off and then the click thing, what’s weird is a guy jumped me with good cables and it started, that’s when I figured the battery was bad and replaced it. Started once then back to click, replaced starter worked once, back to click. Had the old starter tested, it was fine. Also when I turned the key to on, the speedometer would jump to 50-90MPH before turning it to start. I even tried not hooking up the small wire going to the starter and jumped straight from the battery, click. Do I need a starter shim? It didn’t have one before. What is the other terminal for on the starter? One says S and the other B, I think.
One hard click is a starter(solenoid) or connection problem. Several clicks(click, click, click…) is a battery problem. If you are installing a remanufactured starter from like a1 cardone, toss it. Get a NEW starter. the starter may test OK, but it obviously isn’t. The “S” terminal is how the ignition switch activates the starter solenoid. It is working or you wouldn’t hear the click. As this is a Chevy, one thing to look at would be the cables and cable connections at the starter to make sure they are not touching anything it shouldn’t or rubbed through at the block.