key stuck in ignition, gear stick stuck, will not turn on
Sounds like an issue with the shifter cable.
Driver side seat will not heat. Is there a quick way to find out what the root of the problem is whether it be in the switch, a fuse/relay, or the heating element itself? I had a local mechanic tell me once I’d be better off finding a new seat in a junk yard than to try to buy parts to fix it. Thought I’d get a second opinion.
When you press the button on the door to activate the heater, the red light does come on but does not heat. The AC part of the seat cooler does work, but the heater part does not. Thanks for your help.
Generally there is a Body Code that will be stored. A Dealership or well equipped mechanic shop should have a scan tool that can pull the codes that will help guide you to the root of the problem without guessing. No easier way than that.
Example Codes for heated seat malfunction:
I have a front left axle to replace. Do I really need to remove the coil over strut and sway bar end link to do this?
Not according to the manual.
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Ok, I’ve had this starting problem for a long time. When I turn the key it just clicks once and nothing. I have changed the starter, the alternator. the ignition, because it would turn with out a key (which lead to it being stolen about 6 months ago, the ignition switch the dimmer switch(high beam, low beam switch) because it was not working any more, the turn signal switch, tried running a wire (purple wire) with the correct gauge straight from the battery to the solenoid and that worked, once. When I changed the starter, that worked once as well. I also got a new battery. What else could it be? Oh, I changed all the fuses too. I also replaced the battery cables. added 2 grounds as there was only 1 going to the frame, so I added 1 to the engine and 1 to the body.
This just started one day I was driving turned it off and then the click thing, what’s weird is a guy jumped me with good cables and it started, that’s when I figured the battery was bad and replaced it. Started once then back to click, replaced starter worked once, back to click. Had the old starter tested, it was fine. Also when I turned the key to on, the speedometer would jump to 50-90MPH before turning it to start. I even tried not hooking up the small wire going to the starter and jumped straight from the battery, click. Do I need a starter shim? It didn’t have one before. What is the other terminal for on the starter? One says S and the other B, I think.
One hard click is a starter(solenoid) or connection problem. Several clicks(click, click, click…) is a battery problem. If you are installing a remanufactured starter from like a1 cardone, toss it. Get a NEW starter. the starter may test OK, but it obviously isn’t. The “S” terminal is how the ignition switch activates the starter solenoid. It is working or you wouldn’t hear the click. As this is a Chevy, one thing to look at would be the cables and cable connections at the starter to make sure they are not touching anything it shouldn’t or rubbed through at the block.
The most common reason for 1 click with all good connections, is the STARTER.
My automatic headlight won’t shut off.
This is common of a sticking relay. You will want to look for the DRL Relay. DRL = Daytime Running Lights.
The DRL Relay is located in the underhood fuse block on the right side of the engine compartment. Look under the lid of the fuse block for exact location diagram.
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier for others to see the front of your vehicle during the day. Fully functional daytime running lamps are required on all vehicles first sold in Canada.
The DRL system makes the low-beam headlamps come on at a reduced brightness when the following conditions are met:
When the DRL are on, the regular headlamps, taillamps, sidemarker, and other lamps will not be on. The instrument panel and cluster will also not be lit.
The headlamps automatically change from DRL to the regular headlamps depending on the darkness of the surroundings. The other lamps that come on with the headlamps will also come on.
When it is bright enough outside, the headlamps will go off and the DRL will come on.
The regular headlamp system should be turned on when needed.
Do not cover the light sensor on top of the instrument panel because it operates the DRL.
Why is the turn signals blinking fast at the front of the car but the rear lights do not come on?
This is normal for when there is a bulb failure. You should also notice the turn signal indicator on the dash flashing fast as well. Replacing the bulb that does not illuminate should fix the issue.
The TURN SIGNAL fuse in the LH I/P fuse block supplies ignition positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The HAZ SW fuse in the RH I/P accessory wiring junction block also supplies battery positive voltage to the hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly. The turn signal lamps may activate only when the ignition switch is in the ON or ACCY position.
When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, current flows from the flasher module’s output to the turn signal switch assembly. The flasher module then sends an on-off voltage signal to either the left or the right turn signals and their instrument cluster (IPC) indicator. When you press the hazard switch, all the turn signal lamps and both of the IPC turn signal indicators will flash. The hazard and turn signal lamp flasher assembly is grounded at G201. The front turn signals are grounded at G101 and the rear turn signals are grounded at G302.
I’ve taken my car to a million mechanics (including the dealership) and there’s some electrical problem causing my low beams not to work. I adjusted my high beams so they point as low as possible. Is this ok? Will I still blind people?
Of course the best course of action would be to fix the issue. (most common cause would be the Multi-function switch) I would think any headlights are better than getting a ticket for driving without them. I’m sure it won’t take to many test drives at night to find out what oncoming drivers think about your headlight adjustment.
As far as blinding people with your high beams, I can understand your concerns.
Headlight aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment.
However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlight aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlights may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim).
If you believe your headlights need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.
Source – Chilton
Car starts and will shift from P to R to N and to D. It will not move except in D and then will not shift into any higher gear than First. The OBD II warning appears on the dash. The car cannot be pushed in N (it appears that the Parking Lock as when it is in P, does not release).
The car should NOT be driven this way unless you can confirm the transmission fluid level is full. Then a five mile drive shouldn’t cause any further damage.
Car is overheating after replacing the radiator, radiator fans, water pump and thermostat. The is fan not working on the passenger side and ac blows hot on one side and cool on the other side.
It sounds like you have more than one problem going on. Neither problem is related to the other. One problem ids the engine overheating. The other problem is the AC blows hot in one side.
This is pretty common after the cooling system has been worked on. Air is often trapped inside the system and needs to be bled out.
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2001-chevy-impala-draining-and-filling-cooling-system
This is very common of a failed blend door actuator. Replacing the failed actuator will take core of the air conditioning problem. The AC will blow cold out both sides once again.
Tighten
Tighten the left air temperature actuator screw to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).
I have a service stabilitrak and service traction control on on board warnings….Also some loss of power and the check engine light blinks from time to time.
If your vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC), this message displays if there has been a problem detected with ESC. The ESC/TCS light also appears on the instrument panel cluster.
If this message turns on while you are driving, pull off the road as soon as possible and stop carefully. Try resetting the system by turning the ignition off and then back on. If this message still stays on or turns back on again while you are driving, your vehicle needs service. Have the system inspected by your dealer/retailer as soon as possible.
This light comes on briefly while the engine is started. If it does not, have the vehicle serviced by your dealer/retailer. If the system is working normally the indicator light will then go off.
This light can come on after the vehicle is first driven and the STABILITRAK NOT READY message appears in the Driver Information Center (DIC).
If the light stays on, or comes on while driving a SERVICE STABILITRAK message appears in the DIC. This indicates that there may be a problem with the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) system and the vehicle may need service. When this warning light is on and the SERVICE STABILITRAK message appears on the DIC, the ESC system does not assist in controlling the vehicle.
When the system is active, the light flashes while the system is assisting in controlling the vehicle.
B2345-4B