Mar 152018
 

2000 Chevy Blazer

All of the sudden started getting a knock noise and it wants to hesitate when you take off. I noticed oil towards back of engine but still have good oil pressure. Its not getting hot and no chips in oil.


The oil leak is probably nothing more than just that, a leak. Anyway you look at a noise it doesn’t look good.

Knock Noise

Lets figure out if the knock noise is internal or external from the engine. The easiest way to achieve this would be to remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. Only allow the engine to run long enough to determine if the knock no longer remains. If the noise is gone, you know the knock is external. You can check the external noise by spinning the pulleys before installing the serpentine belt.

Internal engine knock noise

2000-chevy-blazer-crankshaft-bearings

  • Knocking noise is present at engine idle. Generally disappears as engine rpms increase. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine main bearings.
  • Knocking noise increases and sometimes gets louder as engine rpms increase. Generally the noise goes away or is faint at engine idle. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine rod bearings.
  • On rare occasions the balance shaft bearings have been known to make a knock noise.

2000-chevy-blazer-blance-shaft

In either case you are going to end up rebuilding or replacing the engine to cure the issue.

Mar 082018
 

 

1993 Chevy Truck

The truck idles fine and revs up fine in park. But when I put in in gear, it’s like I push the accelerator and nothing happens. Like it’s not getting fuel. I replaced the fuel filter and the air filter and that did nothing to fix it. Thank you very much.


No Engine Power

The first thing to do would be to check for any stored check engine light codes. And since this vehicle is older than 1995 it can be done without the use of a scan tool.

Once you have the codes you may post them below in the comments for further assistance. There is no reason to guess if you have the codes.

Poor Acceleration

  • Incorrect Ignition Timing – Reset Timing
  • Leaky Valves – Check Compression
  • Weak Fuel Pump – Replace Fuel Pump
  • Dirty Fuel Injectors – Clean/Replace Injectors
  • Excessive Intake Valve Deposits – Clean Intake System
Mar 072018
 

Chevy Conversion Van

Hello I would like time not price to r&r rear brake shoes and maybe wheel cylinders. Thank you


Labor time estimate for brake shoes

 Pads And/or Shoes, Replace


Labor Times
Comments Factory Regular Severe
demountable drum four wheels 1.5 2.1 2.3
demountable drum front disc 0.9 1.2 1.4
demountable drum rear drum 0.9 1.2 1.4
non-demountable drum four wheels 2.3 3.1 3.5
non-demountable drum front disc 0.9 1.2 1.4
non-demountable drum rear drum 1.7 2.3 2.6
Repack front wheel bearings 0.0 0.7 0.7
Replace brake hose add each 0.0 0.3 0.3
Replace rear whl grease seals add full floating ax 0.0 0.5 0.5
Replace rear whl grease seals add semi floating ax 0.0 0.3 0.3
Resurface brake drum add each 0.0 0.5 0.5
Resurface brake rotor add each 0.0 0.9 0.9
Includes
Includes: Adjust service and parking brake. System bleeding.
Addons
Comments Factory Regular Severe
Replace brake drum add 0.0 0.5 0.5
Replace disc brake rotor add 0.0 0.5 0.5
Replace wheel cylinder add 0.0 0.5 0.5
w/dual rear wheels add each 0.0 0.1 0.1

 

No Start 1996 GMC Suburban 4×4 5.7 liter vortex engine

 Auto Repair Questions, Chevy  Comments Off on No Start 1996 GMC Suburban 4×4 5.7 liter vortex engine
Jan 152018
 

Chevy Suburban

Was running, will not start now. I charged battery and it turns over then makes a noise at starter. When I try again and same thing. I tried 3 times same thing no start. I can’t describe the sound. Any ideas?


My guess would be a faulty battery. But your in luck. we have developed a step by step diagnostic chart for just this occasion. This way we don’t have to guess.

Jan 112018
 

Chevy Suburban

My Suburbans right rear door will not lock manually or with power. I had to replace the inside handle/lock assembly because the lever had fallen inside the door. I can lock by vice grips on the lock rod. I can unlock manually with inside lever but it feels like it’s in a bind when locking with vice grips, it’s easy unlocking but stiff locking.


Door Lock Binding

If it feels like something is binding then it most likely is. You will need to take it back apart and determine the cause.  Disconnect the rod and see if the lock mechanism can now be moved easily in both directions. If you find the lock can now lock and unlock without the rod connected, work from there until you determine the cause. May be rust or an improper installation or even something dropped inside.

door lock diagram 1996 Chevy Suburban

Dec 292017
 

2001 Chevy Monte Carlo

My car surges while driving down the road. There is no check engine light. Have replaced plugs, wires, all coils, fuel filter and had smoke test for vacuum leaks done. Nothing helped. Please help. it is a 2001 Monte Carlo 3.4.


Car surges while driving down the road

Could be a failing ignition control module as this is one of the most common failure components. But may also be something else. A failing sensor. A clogged EGR or catalytic converter. Loose or damaged wiring harness. May also be a transmission issue occurring. Hard to tell without experiencing it for myself if it is engine or transmission related. Makes it even more difficult without any stored codes. Even though there is no check engine light on, there may be codes stored. So make sure you at least have them checked. Take note to see if this only occurs after the engine has warmed up or happens even when cold.

Check your wiring harness

Look at the wiring harness for damaged or brittle wires. Pay close attention tot he wiring and connections at both crankshaft position sensors, camshaft position sensor and Interrupter ring mounted on the back of the balancer.

Crankshaft Position Sensor 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo

Ignition System Modes of Operation

Anytime the PCM does not apply 5 volts to the Ignition Control timing signal circuit, the Ignition Control Module controls ignition by triggering each coil in the proper sequence at a pre-determined dwell. This is called Bypass Mode ignition used during cranking and running below a certain rpm, or during a default mode due to a system failure.

When the PCM begins receiving 24x reference and 3X reference pulses, the PCM applies 5 volts to the IC timing signal circuit. This signals the IC module to allow the PCM to control the dwell and spark timing. This is IC Mode ignition. During IC Mode, the PCM compensates for all driving conditions. If the IC mode changes due to a system fault, the IC mode will stay in default until the ignition is cycled OFF to ON, or the fault is no longer present.

Powertrain Control Module – PCM

The PCM is responsible for maintaining proper spark and fuel injection timing for all driving conditions. Ignition control (IC) spark timing is the method the PCM uses to control spark advance and ignition dwell. To provide optimum driveability and emissions, the PCM monitors input signals from the following components in calculating ignition control (IC) spark timing:

  • Ignition control (IC) module
  • Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
  • Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
  • Mass air flow (MAF) sensor
  • Internal Mode or PNP inputs from Internal Mode switch or Park/Neutral position switch
  • Throttle position (TP) sensor
  • Vehicle speed (VSS), or transmission output speed (TOSS) sensor
Dec 232017
 

2002 Chevy Silverado

I drove my 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel about month a and a half go with no problems. I went to take the truck out today, it started right up and I let in warm up for about five minutes. When I went to back out of the garage there was no power steering and no power brakes. Serpentine belt is on and no signs of any leaks. The power steering fluid is full and brake fluid full. Any ideas what might be wrong. Truck has only 76,000 miles on it.


Hydro-boost Testing

Fluid level good: Check tension and condition of drive belt. If the drive belt is loose or damaged, tighten or replace as required and repeat the basic test (Steps 1-2). If pump speed is slow, adjust and repeat basic test. If pump speed is OK, perform pump flow and relief pressure test.

Perform Basic Test:

  1. Engine (pump) off, depress and release the brake pedal four times to deplete all hydraulic pressure from hydo-boost.
  2. Depress brake pedal and hold with light pressure then start the engine. If the power section is operating properly the pedal will fall slightly and then hold. Less pressure will be needed to hold the pedal in this position. If the power section is NOT operating, go to step 3, otherwise go to step 4.
  3. If power section is not operating properly, check pump reservoir level. If level is low, add fluid and repeat basic test plus Hydraulic Leak Test (Steps 4 to 5). If fluid level is good, go to step 6.
  4. Steering Hydraulic Leak Test: Thoroughly clean the hydo-boost unit and all hose connections. Start the engine and run at idle speed. If the hose fittings do not leak go to step 5.
  5. Check the hydro-boost for leaks. Apply the brake pedal with approximately 100 lbs. force and hold while checking hydro-boost hose fittings for leaks. Do not hold brake pedal at 100 lbs. effort for more than five seconds at a time. If the hydo-boost leaks, it is defective and should be replaced or repaired. If no leaks are found in the hydro-boost or hoses, do not repair or replace them.
  6. Fluid level good: Check tension and condition of drive belt. If the drive belt is loose or damaged, tighten or replace as required and repeat the basic test (Steps 1-2). If pump speed is slow, adjust and repeat basic test. If pump speed is OK, perform pump flow and relief pressure test.
  7. If pump output is below minimum specification, replace and repeat basic test. If all test and checks are OK, the booster is defective and should be replaced or repaired.
  8. If power section is operating, perform the following steps in order.
  9. Hydro-boost accumulator pressure retention test: Run pump to medium speed, apply brake pedal force to 100 lbs. for not more than five seconds and then stop engine.
  10. Wait 90 seconds and apply the brakes. Two or more applications should be power assisted. If applications are not power assisted the hydro-boost is defective and should be replaced or repaired. If applications are power assisted, go to next step.
  11. Thoroughly clean the hydo-boost unit and all hose connections. Start the engine and run at idle speed. If the hose fittings do not leak, go to step 5.
  12. Check the hydro-boost for leaks. Apply the brake pedal with approximately 100lbs force and hold while checking hydro-boost hose fittings for leaks. Do not hold brake pedal at 100 lbs. effort for more than five seconds at a time. If the hydo-boost leaks, it is defective and should be replaced or repaired. If no leaks are found in the hydro-boost or hoses, do not repair or replace them. Perform the brake hydraulic leak test.
  13. Brake Hydraulic Leak Test – Depress and release brake pedal several times, then hold pedal depressed with medium pressure of 25 to 35lbs. If pedal does not fall away, hydraulic system is not leaking. If pedal falls away, go to next step.
    Pedal falls away under constant pressure – hydraulic brake system is leaking. Check for external leaks at wheel cylinders, calipers, hoses and lines. If no leaks are found, additional diagnostic steps are necessary.
Service

The hydro-boost in not serviceable in the field. If the unit is not functioning properly, it must be replaced. The replacement process is straight forward, but bleeding can sometimes be tricky. I am offering a choice of techniques in this area. Hydro-boost brake systems are supposed to be self-bleeding, but this does not always prove to be true.
Source: www.brakeandfrontend.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/

Door Lock Problem 1996 GMC Suburban

 Auto Repair Questions, Chevy, GMC  Comments Off on Door Lock Problem 1996 GMC Suburban
Dec 082017
 

Chevy Suburban

Door Lock Problem

I have a new to me Suburban, it is all power. This vehicle has a Smart Start Security System and the key fob will not lock the door. The right rear door is missing the up/down button to manually lock from inside. The right rear door will not lock using to front power lock button.

If I replace the handle/lock assembly on inside will I be able to lock the door from the inside if the actuator is bad?


Yes, if you replace all the missing “manual” components in the door. You will be able to manually lock the door. Even if the electrical actuator portion does not function.

Nov 212017
 

Chevy Silverado

My battery went dead. I replaced it. Now I have no power windows, locks, lights, etc. and it wont start.


No power windows

My guess would be you didn’t get it connected right, have corrosion at the battery/cables or you managed to blow a fuse or two. The starter has a relay a two fuses to check. Fuse 60 and 64 should be checked. The windows do not have a fuse, this is what leads me to think it is a bad connection at the battery. Not to mention it was the last thing that was worked on. Double check your work.

Nov 192017
 

2005 Chevy Trailblazer

Can I have broken trans axle removed and convert to 2 wheel drive? It is a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4×4 auto. Thank You


Anything is possible with enough time and money but I wouldn’t recommend it. Oil would leak out of the front differential. This would also allow water to get into the differential.

Front Drive Axle Description and Operation

Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) Front Axle Description and Operation

The Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) Front Axle consist of the following components:

  • Differential Carrier Housing
  • Differential Case Assembly
  • Inner Axle Shaft
  • Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly (located on the right side of the oil pan)
  • Electric Motor Actuator

The front axle on Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) model vehicles uses a disconnect feature mounted on the right side of the oil pan in order to engage and disengage the front axle. When the driver engages the 4WD system, the Transfer Case Control Module sends a signal to the electric motor actuator to energize and extend the plunger inside. The extended plunger moves the clutch fork and clutch fork sleeve across from the clutch fork outer gear that is splined to the right side wheel drive shaft to the clutch fork inner gear that is splined to the inner axle shaft. The locking of the two gears allows the axle to operate in the same manner as a semi-floating rear axle.

A propeller shaft connects the transfer case to the front axle. The differential carrier assembly uses a conventional ring and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the engine to the wheels. The open differential allows the wheels to turn at different rates of speed while the axle continues to transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing when going around corners and premature wear on internal axle parts. The ring and pinion set and the differential are contained within the carrier. The axle identification number is located on top of the differential carrier assembly or on a label on the bottom of the right half of differential carrier assembly. The wheel drive shafts are completely flexible assemblies consisting of inner and outer constant velocity CV joints protected by thermoplastic boots and connected by a wheel drive shaft.

Automatic Four Wheel Drive (A4WD) Front Axle Description and Operation

The Automatic Four Wheel Drive (A4WD) Front Axle consist of the following components:

  • Differential Carrier Housing
  • Differential Case Assembly
  • Inner Axle Shaft
  • Intermediate Shaft bearing Assembly (located on the right side of the oil pan)

The front axle on Automatic Four Wheel Drive (A4WD) model vehicles do not have a disconnect feature in order to engage and disengage the front axle. The Automatic Four Wheel Drive system uses the same differential carrier assembly and intermediate shaft bearing assembly, but the clutch fork, the clutch fork sleeve and the inner/outer gears have been replaced with a single splined sleeve that connects the inner axle shaft directly to the right side wheel drive shaft. This connection allows the right side wheel drive shaft and the intermediate axle shaft to be directly connected to the differential case assembly. It also results in having the wheel drive shafts, the intermediate axle shaft and the propeller shaft to spin continuously. When the transfer case is active, the clutch assembly within the transfer case controls the amount of torque applied to the front axle. The remaining components are the same as the selectable four wheel drive axle.