I’m having issues with my 2003 Chevy Impala not wanting to start and I’m all out of ideas. Cant afford labor costs to fix it. New plugs and wires, new battery and starter.
I’m hearing a clicking noise in my transmission. Is it supposed to be there because the bottom of the trans is open I can see the flywheel spinning?
No it is not supposed to. This noise can be common to several things.
How do I find an electrical short? The cruise control, radio buttons and headlights go off and on randomly. not always at the same time. Once when I was driving with the cruise on it just stopped working while I was driving. The radio button wont work when the cruise is out. The drivers side low beam light was out for a week, I took it in to get replaced the tech came out and said all the lights are working fine! No explanation or reason why. That is why I believe it is a lose connection or short. Any Ideas? please advise
Look for corrosion around the battery and check for loose connections.
Going down the hwy suddenly oil pressure kinda jumped around a few times then hit 0 had no response from throttle so I put it in neutral and shut her down … since then I have replaced fuel pump relay and oil sending unit and both were bad. Now it will start with starting fluid or gas then die. No pulse from injectors but I do get 12v on them both. I think its worth mentioning a few months prior I noticed a broken ground strap. The one from firewall to back of motor. Was unable to access it and ran the ground up top where the battery ground goes. Have since got it back where it belongs. Had an extra battery cable and used that. Should I swap it for an actual ground strap? And shouldn’t there be 2 grounds back there?
Just need one good ground to engine and one from engine to frame.
As for the injectors. They should have 12V with ignition key on at all times. The ECM sends a negative pulse signal to trigger them on. Check the ECM fuse. And if it checks out OK the next thing to try would be a new ignition control module in the distributor.
I’m wanting to replace the drivers and passengers airbags on my own. I have took the drivers and passengers airbag out allready. I’m thinking just take the battery out of the car and pulling the fuses that have to do with the airbag. Then reinstall !!! But I want the Airbags to Reset the way they’re suppose to. Could you help me out, it would be greatly appreciated. Michael
Here is what I found in one of the manuals:
Last week something was put in my gas tank while I was at work. I am wondering if there is a way to get my car back up and running. I drove it for approx half a mile before it stalled out. Not sure what was put in it, could of been a number of things. But I do know that it was fluid because my gas gauge was about a quarter of a tank more than what I had in it before this occurred.
First of all sorry to hear that. To be on the safe side, you would need to have the fuel tank drained and the fuel filter replaced. The fuel tank may need to be flushed and the fuel lines flushed as well. Then of course fresh fuel put back in the tank and the fuel injectors tested.
Replaced ignition lock cylinder and housing security light came on. Reset the passlock, now it cranks but won’t start. And I still have to take the key in and out and play with it to work even though I have a brand new switch. Also when we shut the door the odometer and battery light stays on. It stays on while driving the battery light.
I am thinking the when you turn the key and it will not crank that may be getting to the starter but not cranking. (bad starter) and it is just coincidental that playing around with the key appears to be the solution to get it to crank. This is assuming the ignition key does not have a chip in it.
The good news is that you can test to see if this is the case. Confirm a good battery ground on the starter. Have someone hold the ignition key in the start position the next time it will not crank. Then check for battery positive at the “S” terminal. If you see battery positive, replace the starter.
The battery light being on while driving would indicate and fault in charging the battery. This can be from a bad cell in the battery, poor connections between the battery and alternator or a faulty alternator.
2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab, 4×4 5.3L v8 with flex fuel would turn over, but not start or die immediately. Looked online and said to disconnect battery and turn key to run a couple time. Vehicle started after, however windows, AC and radio still do not work. Tried two different BCM’s and did not fix the problem. Also looked for the master fuse, however, even though there is a slot for one, it is not installed. The fuse diagram shows it, however it is outlined in dashes, which I take to mean there may not be one equipped. Am I correct on that? Also any ideas on what else could be causing the issue? Could sure use the advice, it’s my sons truck and he just started working
Fisrt I like to check the each system curcuit for anything that is common.
So you are right in thinking BCM as this is the common between these systems. The BCM Has several fuses TBC ASSY, TBC IGN 0, TBC IGN 1, TBC 2C, TBC 2A and TBC BATT
Inside Panel fuses: TBC 2C, TBC 2A, TBC 2B, TBC ACCY and TBC IGN 0
Underhood Fuse Block fuses: TBC IGN 1 and TBC BATT
I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there an easy way to do this on my Astro van ?
Sure. Pay someone else to do it would be the easiest way. There are some that will cut a hole in the floor, but I do not recommend it.
To do it yourself you will need to drop the gas tank. This will allow access to the fuel pump module located in the top of the gas tank.
Astro & Safari
About 3 months ago started acting like no power for about one second then would kick back in. About two weeks ago it started not wanting to shift into 4th gear and after two less than a mile drives since it jerks like a manual first time learning driver shifting into 4th gear (mostly in auto not so much when in manual mode). Once into 5th gear it’s fine as like 1-3rd gears. Just going into 4th. I’m disabled and need to get this fixed doe my weekly doctor’s visits. One mechanic said need new transmission, another said “it’s normal and gas saver lol” which we know that’s not the case if it’s never done it before. Ive read a wave plate or solenoid. Did find one very very very small hose leaked front drivers side lower hose by front quarter panel / bumper area but it’s so minute it’s not low. Don’t want to buy new transmission if not necessary. Thank you for your time. Exhausted Grammy.
The best first course action would be to have the transmission codes read at a Transmission specialty shop. This should tell you the exact problem area. If the transmission fluid color looks good, my guess would be a faulty/sticking solenoid. This is a common failure part that exhibits the symptoms you are describing.