I was told I have a blown head gasket but these guys just seemed so unprofessional and would not answer any of my questions. So I’m wondering can it be a blown head gasket if there is no coolant leaks no misfires no white smoke. The only symptom my car has is it overheats when the car warms up when I stop the coolant in the overflow tank is boiling or bubbling. When they ran tests the said there was combustible gases in my coolant. Thank you.
If you are uncomfortable with the mechanic shop you took your car to, exercise your right to take it somewhere else. A compression test is a good place to start when diagnosing a blown head gasket.
A pressure gauge can be installed to the cooling system to detect excessive pressure. Most cooling systems pressure is under 20 psi. When engine cylinder compression enters the cooling system the pressure gauge would spike and exceed this amount. An engines compression in each cylinder can be 100 psi or more.
Boiling coolant usually indicates a poor mixture. The coolant to water ration should be 50/50. Straight water will allow the engine to overheat quickly. So if the cooling system has been worked on recently and just topped off with water, it may be the cause.
I have a 413CI RB big block in this car. I am needing to replace the rear main seal next week, so I am shopping for a seal kit. These are the options I have, which would be the best choice? 1. Felpro 2-Piece, Fluoroelastomer seal; 2. Mr Gasket Rear Main Seal, 2-Piece Silicone; 3. Felpro 2-Piece, Rubber Rear Main Seal; or 4. Felpro Rear Main Seal, 2-Piece, OEM-Style Rope Thanks
To narrow down the choices one might consider the installation tools. You will need a rear main seal installation tool with a bridge to install the rope seal properly.
An example of installation of rope seal without the proper tool.
I wouldn’t venture to say that any one seal is the best choice. They are all designed to perform the same function.
Engine cranks but will NOT turn over. Changed battery, and got P1684-ECM reset code, no other codes follow. Check engine light flashes 5 times after initial “on” position. Not sure how to calculate the flashes. Need to know the flash count calc. Please advise.
Ok, I’m thinking that the PCM…aka engine computer….is either “shut down” by a shorted sensor or this is an indication that the PCM will need replacing.
Try unplugging the cam sensor. This is located on the passenger end of the front cylinder head. Crank the engine over for a minimum of 10 seconds with the cam sensor unplugged. I’m looking to see if the engine will start this way…….that is why you need to crank it so long.
P1684 CHRYSLER – Battery Power To Module Disconnected
Battery was recently disconnected
Transmission Control Module (TCM) was replaced or disconnected
Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Transmission Control Module (TCM) harness is open or shorted
Transmission Control Module (TCM) circuit poor electrical connection
Malfunction Indicator Lamp, Diagnosis & Testing
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is located on Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC). The MIL informs driver that an emission system fault has occurred and that engine control system requires service. The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors MIL control circuit for conditions that are incorrect for commanded state of MIL. For example, a failure condition exists if ECM detects low voltage when MIL is commanded OFF, or high voltage when MIL is commanded ON.
Any MIL requesting DTCs that may be set should be diagnosed first.
1. Understand and validate customer concern. Inspect visible system components for obvious damage or conditions that may cause concern.
2. Inspect for related bulletins, recall/field actions and preliminary information.
3. Verify symptom is not exclusively a mechanical concern.
4. Connect a suitably programmed scan tool, perform Vehicle DTC Information function and verify at least one control module communicates with scan tool.
5. Verify there are no control module Internal hardware performance DTCs set.
6. Ignition ON, command MIL ON and OFF with scan tool. MIL should turn ON and OFF as commanded.
7. Ignition ON, command MIL ON and OFF with a scan tool while observing following control circuit status parameters:
a. MIL control circuit low voltage test status.
b. MIL control circuit open test status.
c. MIL control circuit high voltage test status.
d. Each parameter should toggle between OK and Not Run or Not Run and OK.
8. Ignition OFF, disconnect MIL electrical harness connectors. Ignition ON, MIL should not illuminate. If MIL is illuminated, test MIL control circuit terminal for a short to ground. If circuit tests normal, replace cluster.
9. Ignition ON, connect a 3A fused jumper wire between MIL control circuit terminal and ground. MIL should illuminate. If MIL does not illuminate, test MIL control circuit for a short to voltage, or an open/high resistance. If circuit tests normal, replace MIL bulb.
10. If all circuits/connections test normal, replace ECM.
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 1999-2007
Anytime the PCM is replaced the VIN and vehicle mileage must be programmed into the new PCM. If the PCM is not programmed, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) will set. To program the PCM, connect a DRB or suitably programmed scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC) and follow scan tool manufacturers instructions. On models equipped with the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS), program secret key as follows:
If the PCM and the SKIM are replaced at the same time, all vehicle keys will need to be replaced and programmed to the new SKIM.
Turn ignition switch on and place transmission in park/neutral.
Use scan tool and select THEFT ALARM, SKIM then MISCELLANEOUS.
Select PCM REPLACED (GAS ENGINE).
Program vehicle four digit PIN into SKIM.
Select COUNTRY CODE and enter correct country.
Be sure to enter correct country code. If incorrect country code is programmed into SKIM, SKIM must be replaced.
Select YES to update VIN (the SKIM will learn the VIN from the PCM).
Press ENTER to transfer secret key (PCM will send secret key to SKIM).
Generally speaking this has to do with the wheel speed sensors going out. They are mounted inside the wheel hub bearings.
View of the front speed sensor mounting screw (1), hub and bearing (2), routing clip (3) and front wheel speed sensor (4)
“The 05 and 06 models have a lot of issues with the wheel speed sensors for the abs system. A failing sensor will cause the symptoms that you are describing.
Because of excessively high failure rates, Chrysler has re-designed the sensors and for this reason it is necessary to replace all 4 sensors…………even if just one is bad.” Source: Chrysler Mechanic
Anti-Lock Brake System, Inspection
A visual inspection must always be performed to confirm the presence of aftermarket components, potential collision damage, or areas of concern.
The ABS module is self monitoring. The module will carry out a preliminary electrical inspection of the hydraulic pump motor by turning the pump ON for approximately 1/2 second either when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position and the brake pedal is not pressed or when the vehicle is in motion and at vehicle speeds above 12 mph. The ABS module will also carry out a wheel speed sensor self-test by sending a reference voltage to all of the wheel speed sensors through their circuitry when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, with or without brake pedal application. If a fault is detected in the pump or wheel speed sensors, the ABS module will shut down and disable the anti-lock system. Normal power assisted braking, however, remains.
Verify stop lamps operate correctly by applying and releasing brake pedal with ignition switch in OFF position.
Verify that PRNDL operates correctly on instrument cluster.
Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.
If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct cause if possible before proceeding.
Connect a suitably programmed scan tool to vehicle DLC.
Carry out network test.
Clear continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for ABS
Engine light stays on. Mechanic’s scope indicated a code and changed the Catalytic Converter and one Oxygen Sensor. Shortly after the engine light came on again. He changed the second Oxygen Sensor. Light came on again Both times he used his meter, the code said the problem was with the Sensor. Any suggestions for what I should check next? Could the problem be electrical (a short or faulty wire harness)?
I am guessing as to what the actual code is as you did not provide it. If the code is different please indicate it by responding in the comments.
Chrysler Code P0420
Description: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
Sensor or solenoid faulty
Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
I am wanting to check my transmission fluid level and possibly change the fluid and filter but am unable to locate the dipstick or fill port. The engine is a 3.6 liter and the transmission is the 41TE type. Any advise… TKs..
No transmission oil dipstick
I only show this model coming with a 62TE transmission. Must use Mopar Automatic Transmission Fluid Plus 4 or equivalent. Will require 5.50 qts for service.
Your vehicle does not have a dipstick installed from the factory. A special tool is used to check the transmission fluid level. The transmission Oil Dipstick (special tool #9336A, Dipstick) has indicator marks every 10 mm. I have double checked to make sure this one will fit your 2012 Chrysler Town And Country. Comes complete with instructions.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.
MOPAR® ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.
My car normally wont let me leave the car without my key but it locks and i cant get back in with the key in the car.
You will need to use a spare key or call a service to get you back in.
Key Fob Description
Vehicles are shipped from the factory with two FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitters programmed to the vehicle as standard equipment. The FOBIK circuitry is contained and protected within a molded black plastic case with a black soft rubber touch pad on the face divided into six sections. The rearward end of the FOBIK case houses a mechanical, metal, coded emergency key (5) that is released by sliding a latch button on the back of the FOBIK case.
Depending upon vehicle equipment, each FOBIK has at least three and no more than five functional resistive membrane switches located beneath the six touch pad sections. Each functional touch pad section is clearly identified by white icons or white text and icons identifying the specific function obtained by pushing that button. Domestic market vehicles also include a touch pad section on the FOBIK with the red text PANIC applied to it. Not counting the PANIC touch pad (4), the available switches include:
Unlock (1) – Standard equipment.
Lock (2) – Standard equipment.
Remote Start (3) – Only for vehicles equipped with the factory-installed remote start system.
Trunk (6) – Standard equipment.
The FOBIK RKE transmitter is the primary customer active interface for remotely operating the power lock system, the RKE system and the remote start system components and features. However, the FOBIK also has an important passive role in each of the following vehicle systems:
Keyless Go System
Passive Entry System
Sentry Key® Theft Deterrent System
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS)
Other than battery replacement, the FOBIK cannot be adjusted or repaired. Once a FOBIK has been programmed to a vehicle, it cannot be reprogrammed for use on any other vehicle. If damaged or ineffective, the FOBIK must be replaced with a new unit. A new and unused FOBIK unit must be properly programmed in order to function properly with the systems of the vehicle. The mechanical emergency key of the new FOBIK must also be cut to match the coding of the lock cylinders in the vehicle.
The integrated mechanical key of the FOBIK provides emergency access to the vehicle in case the battery in the vehicle or the transmitter becomes discharged.
In the event that the battery in the FOBIK is low or there is a Low Frequency Antenna problem:
Hold the FOBIK with the key ring away from the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN).
With the Lock/Unlock button end of the FOBIK, press the Start/Stop Button (SSB) of the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN) switch.
Push gently to prevent scratching the surface of the SSB in the KIN.
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 ltre has gone into limp mode. The dashboard warning light that are on are the red flashing lightning bolt, the check engine light and skid indicator. when diagnostic is done the error code is P0340 which is the cranckshaft position sensor which I have replaced. I have also replaced the ETC with no results. Any ideas?
I would consider looking at the camshaft position sensor. You stated that you replace the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensor.
Dodge Code P0340
Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
Code P0340 probable causes
Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty starter motor
Starting system circuit
Dead (Weak) battery
Camshaft Position Sensor Location
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (3) is located on right side of timing gear/chain cover below generator (1).
Camshaft Position Sensor Removal
First of all, disconnect electrical connector (3) at CMP sensor.
Next remove sensor mounting bolt (3).
Carefully twist sensor (2) from timing gear/chain cover.