My car normally wont let me leave the car without my key but it locks and i cant get back in with the key in the car.
You will need to use a spare key or call a service to get you back in.
Key Fob Description
Vehicles are shipped from the factory with two FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitters programmed to the vehicle as standard equipment. The FOBIK circuitry is contained and protected within a molded black plastic case with a black soft rubber touch pad on the face divided into six sections. The rearward end of the FOBIK case houses a mechanical, metal, coded emergency key (5) that is released by sliding a latch button on the back of the FOBIK case.
Depending upon vehicle equipment, each FOBIK has at least three and no more than five functional resistive membrane switches located beneath the six touch pad sections. Each functional touch pad section is clearly identified by white icons or white text and icons identifying the specific function obtained by pushing that button. Domestic market vehicles also include a touch pad section on the FOBIK with the red text PANIC applied to it. Not counting the PANIC touch pad (4), the available switches include:
Unlock (1) – Standard equipment.
Lock (2) – Standard equipment.
Remote Start (3) – Only for vehicles equipped with the factory-installed remote start system.
Trunk (6) – Standard equipment.
The FOBIK RKE transmitter is the primary customer active interface for remotely operating the power lock system, the RKE system and the remote start system components and features. However, the FOBIK also has an important passive role in each of the following vehicle systems:
Keyless Go System
Passive Entry System
Sentry Key® Theft Deterrent System
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS)
Other than battery replacement, the FOBIK cannot be adjusted or repaired. Once a FOBIK has been programmed to a vehicle, it cannot be reprogrammed for use on any other vehicle. If damaged or ineffective, the FOBIK must be replaced with a new unit. A new and unused FOBIK unit must be properly programmed in order to function properly with the systems of the vehicle. The mechanical emergency key of the new FOBIK must also be cut to match the coding of the lock cylinders in the vehicle.
The integrated mechanical key of the FOBIK provides emergency access to the vehicle in case the battery in the vehicle or the transmitter becomes discharged.
In the event that the battery in the FOBIK is low or there is a Low Frequency Antenna problem:
Hold the FOBIK with the key ring away from the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN).
With the Lock/Unlock button end of the FOBIK, press the Start/Stop Button (SSB) of the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN) switch.
Push gently to prevent scratching the surface of the SSB in the KIN.
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 ltre has gone into limp mode. The dashboard warning light that are on are the red flashing lightning bolt, the check engine light and skid indicator. when diagnostic is done the error code is P0340 which is the cranckshaft position sensor which I have replaced. I have also replaced the ETC with no results. Any ideas?
I would consider looking at the camshaft position sensor. You stated that you replace the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensor.
Dodge Code P0340
Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
Code P0340 probable causes
Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty starter motor
Starting system circuit
Dead (Weak) battery
Camshaft Position Sensor Location
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (3) is located on right side of timing gear/chain cover below generator (1).
Camshaft Position Sensor Removal
First of all, disconnect electrical connector (3) at CMP sensor.
Next remove sensor mounting bolt (3).
Carefully twist sensor (2) from timing gear/chain cover.
Why do I hear water swoshing when my a\c is on but not when not when it is off? Also when on I hear a strange noise when I turn left but not when ot is off. What is this ? Changed out blower motor and resistor.
Could be the normal sounds of a properly functioning R134a air conditioning system. If this is an abnormal sound then you may need to do some investigating in order to narrow down the problem.
I have removed the intake manifold to be restored and have purchased a new intake manifold gasket (called a “valley pan”) it came with the valley pan and 2 fiber gaskets. The original gasket was only the metal valley pan with no fiber gaskets used. When I go to install the manifold do I include the fiber gaskets? Gasket set is a Felpro # 1215
Intake manifold gaskets and valley pan
I would think the extra gaskets are there in case you had to mill the head or intake. If it is all original you may want to just use the valley pan and some good sealant. Coat the cylinder block seal surfaces with oil resistant sealer. Install new seals and gasket.
2002 PT Cruiser radiator problems. Overheating after just a few miles, never have seen a leak but have added a lot of antifreeze (like 2-3 gal). This is what I’ve done so far. Antifreeze , thermostat, cap -cuz seal was broken. Heat works sometimes, but it does overheat at about 3-4 miles. I’ve heard some scary sounds, but its rare. I’m a girl but do know cars…brakes, distributor caps, alternators, etc. But on cars newer then 1980’s fuel injection, don’t know to much.
Could it be water pump? Just not sure what to do. Also, front windows don’t work anymore, rear windows are fine and all the fuses are fine.
Thank you so much, any guidance would be great!
Since you are loosing anti-freeze that would be the first thing to figure out. You will need to pressure test the cooling system to determine if and where the leak is coming from. It can leak externally or internally. And also determine if the radiator cooling fan is coming on as it should.
That being said, it is important that the antifreeze that you added was 50/50 mix. If you add straight water or straight antifreeze it can and will overheat quickly. Therefore antifreeze and water mixed together offer a higher boiling point.
Pressure testing the cooling system
Top off cooling system. Acquire a cooling system pressure tester and connect it to the radiator in place of the cap. Pump up the pressure to around 15 psi and allow it to hold for 15 minutes. Look underneath and around the engine bay for signs of leaking coolant/antifreeze. If the pressure drops rapidly then you know there is a large leak and should be fairly easy to locate. In addition, a slow drop may be more difficult to locate the leak. Placing a clean piece of cardboard under the car may assist in locating the leak.
Internal coolant leak
If you see the pressure drop quickly on the pressure tester without any signs of external leaking you are left with and internal leak. Internal leaks generally cause a noticeable performance issue such as an engine misfire. Finally you may also see the check engine light come on.
Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the radiator cap. On the next engine heat up cycle, the air is pushed past the radiator cap into the coolant recovery bottle by thermal expansion of the coolant. The air then escapes to the atmosphere in the coolant recovery bottle and is replaced with coolant on cool down. To effectively deaerate the system, multiple thermal cycles of the system may be required. Deaeration does not occur at engine idle. Higher than engine idle speeds are required. Normal driving will deaerate the cooling system.
Coolant flows through the engine water jackets and cylinder heads absorbing heat produced by the engine during operation. The coolant carries heat to the radiator and heater core. Here it is transferred to ambient air passing through the radiator and heater core fins.
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle operating conditions. The recommended mixture of 50/50 ethylene-glycol and water will provide protection against freezing to -37 deg. C (-35 deg. F). The antifreeze concentration must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7 deg. C (-90 deg. F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because the specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
100 Percent Ethylene-Glycol—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause formation of additive deposits in the system, as the corrosion inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as insulation, causing temperatures to rise to as high as 149 deg. C (300 deg. F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22 deg. C (-8 deg. F ).
Propylene-glycol Formulations—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Propylene-glycol formulations do not meet Chrysler coolant specifications.It’s overall effective temperature range is smaller than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50 propylene-glycol and water is -32 deg. C (-26 deg. F). 5 deg. C higher than ethylene-glycol’s freeze point. The boiling point (protection against summer boil-over) of propylene-glycol is 125 deg. C (257 deg. F ) at 96.5 kPa (14 psi), compared to 128 deg. C (263 deg. F) for ethylene-glycol. Use of propylene-glycol can result in boil-over or freeze-up in Chrysler vehicles, which are designed for ethylene-glycol. Propylene glycol also has poorer heat transfer characteristics than ethylene glycol. This can increase cylinder head temperatures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/Ethylene-glycol Mixtures—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibitors, causing damage to the various cooling system components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propylene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle, conventional methods of determining freeze point will not be accurate. Both the refractive index and specific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. Caution:
Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be measured with normal field equipment and can cause problems associated with 100 percent ethylene-glycol.
I bought this car used. In less than a week, it started popping out of 3rd gear and making awful grinding noises from the transmission. Replaced the transmission.
Now, the fog lamps will not turn off (pulled the fuse), the interior lights will not turn on, the radio will not turn on, and the heater blower will not blow. Also, the power windows will not roll up or down. And the odometer flashes “no fuse” message. Checked for blown fuses and broken wires as best I could but, was unable to find any. It is quite possible that I missed or overlooked some of these. I am not familiar with this vehicle nor am I a mechanic. Please, help if possible. I didn’t pay very much for this car, but I don’t want to just throw away what money I have spent. – John
Electrical wiring problem
Generally when something will not turn off it is caused from a back feed or crossed wiring. Sometimes this can be from a sticking relay or damaged wiring. Other times a faulty switch or connecting the wiring harness wrong. Isolating each circuit should help narrow down the issue.
If I had to guess, I would think a power wire connection coming from or going to the fuse block. Most likely happened during transmission replacement. Double check your connections and wiring harness. Most of the fuses should be hot at all times. This means you should see battery voltage on both sides of the fuse.
If you know both were working then I would start with checking the fuses. If one was out and now both, start with replacing the headlights. There are 3 fuses to check. Check fuse #33, #17 and #12. Once you confirm the fuses are good, test for power and ground at the headlights.
Good power and ground means replace the headlamps. Still now power, check the multi-function switch. If that checks out then you are left with the Power module or wiring. I’ll supply you with a wiring diagram to help assist you with the problem.