The car will just shut down while I’m driving. A few weeks my mechanic replaced the transmission sensor. Now it’s just shutting down ever thing cuts off. After a few minutes it usually will start up again. I am not driving it now
Car Shutting Down
Intermittent problems can be frustrating and time consuming. When the car is running fine and starting fine all tests performed will usually come back as showing no errors with anything. Knowing that, all diagnostic testing will need to be carried out while the problem is present. So only diagnosing when the vehicle will not start will lead us the cause of the problem.
This may require leaving the vehicle with a mechanic for a long stay.
I have a code that is reading #4 missfire. would the ignition coil pack most likely be the problem or #4 injector?
The coil pack would be the most common part failure.
Ignition System Operation
The ignition system used on these engines is referred to as the Direct Ignition System (DIS). The system’s three main components are the coils, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensor. If equipped with the coil on plug ignition system it utilizes an ignition coil for every cylinder. It is mounted directly over the each spark plug.
I just had my head gaskets replaced and now there’s oil getting into the intake. Can a rebuild kit fix this problem? If I’m going to replace my engine, my original 8th digit vin letter is R and the one I’m replacing it with is vin T. Will this work?
Try replacing the PCV valve first. Oil may be getting into the intake from a failed PCV valve or improperly installed gaskets since you just had it worked on. A compression test will confirm if the problem is internal in the engine or not.
I have been fighting an electrical problem, the car will not start. It acts like the ASD relay is not working, But I can’t locate it. All the info I have says that might should be on the driver fender in the relay box. It is not. Manuals say that the relays in order from fender to engine are starter, ASD, Fuel pump, Horn, Wiper/washer A/C clutch and Radiator fan. I’m are starter, fuel pump, Inj. Ing. coil, blank w/washer,
AC clutch and Rad. fan. I have swapped out the relays with a new one. All so I have changed the coil and dist. module. What is keeping it from starting.
I am trying to buy front struts and rear suspension and since I am being asked if it is electronic suspension or not.
I have just purchased car and do not know this how can I find out what type of suspension I have.
Look to see if there is an electrical connection attached to the strut.
When I put key in ignition, key wont turn. Its like frozen, plenty of juice. Might be ignition switch? The key goes in and makes the sound activate but will not turn either way.
Key Wont Turn
Try wiggling the steering wheel while trying to turn the ignition key
If you have an additional key, try it
You may have to replace the ignition lock cylinder.
Key Lock Cylinder Replacement
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Remove steering column cover retaining screws.
Remove screws holding steering column shrouds and remove lower shroud.
Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress lock cylinder retaining tab on the bottom of the lock housing and remove key cylinder.
1.Install key in lock cylinder. Turn key to run position (retaining tab on lock cylinder can be depressed).
2.The shaft at the end of the lock cylinder aligns with the socket in the end of the housing. To align the socket with the lock cylinder, ensure the socket is in the Run position (Socket in Lock Cylinder Housing) .
1 – LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
2 – SOCKET
3.Align the lock cylinder with the grooves in the housing. Slide the lock cylinder into the housing until the tab sticks through the opening in the housing.
4.Turn the key to the Off position. Remove the key.
5.Install lower steering column shroud.
6.Install steering column cover.
7.Connect negative cable to battery.
Car won’t start. Should there be power at the plug that supplies the coil when the key is on. Have no power at that plug. Shut car off one night (running great) and go to start it next day and it just turns over. Seems dist. cap is all good and rotor, but no fire.
Here is a wonderful diagnostic chart for no start situations.
The Dark Green/Orange wire gets its power from the ASD Relay. The ASD Relay gets its power from the Fuel pump relay and 2 fuses #42 and #46. The PCM sends a signal on the Black/Grey wire to the distributor. It is common for the ASD Relay to fail and need to be replaced.
ASD Relay Location
It us located in the power distribution center under the hood in the engine compartment.
The color of smoke would be interesting to know. If it is white it might indicate some blown head gasket symptoms. Blue or black smoke would indicate burning oil and fuel. If it is oil smoke it my be from worn valve seals. This will not cause an issue as long as the oil level is kept full. In fact checking your fluid levels might point you in the right direction as to what is burning.
I’m getting a burning plastic like smell after a 45 minute drive but all gauges read normal and fluids look good. Maybe a Brake smell, I’m not sure what it is.
I cannot see anything under the van, nothing is leaking, everything looks normal…. but this smell (which is outside the cab – can’t smell it inside) is bizarre. Not seeing any smoke from tailpipe either. Brakes feel kinda spongy but I don’t think it could be brake fluid. I’m not Mr. Goodwrench but I do know this is weird. My car has 107000 miles. My car has an automatic transmission.
I would think a spongy brake would be an indicator. You may also look for excessive brake dust on the front wheels as compared to the rear wheels. Also look at the brake fluid level. Do not add any fluid, but if it looks like it is half full this is an indicator. The front brake pads may be worn down enough to need replaced. Another thing to check for would be if one of the wheels is too hot to touch it would indicate a sticking brake caliper.