There is a rumbling noise when I drive that turns into a loud roar, similar to that of an airplane lifting off, when I apply the brakes. It happens even if I am applying them gently. What could be causing this? There is no squealing noise, and it is coming from the rear of the vehicle.
Most common reason for the rumbling noise described is a brake issue. Most likely the brake pads have completely worn away and you are metal on metal. Disassembly of the brakes will be required for an accurate inspection to be performed. You will probably need to have the rear brake pads and brake rotors replaced. Would also be a good idea to have the rear brake calipers inspected for any damage.
Brake Caliper Inspection
Inspect the disc brake caliper for the following:
Brake fluid leaks in and around boot area and inboard lining
Ruptures, brittleness or damage to the piston dust boot
Damaged, dry or brittle guide pin dust boots
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondition caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots.
The engine will not rev past 3,000 rpm in park or neutral. This is to prevent damage to the engine and preserve the warranty. This is accomplished with a built in rev limiter. If this is occurring while driving there may be an issue causing the computer to enter into low power mode. A check engine light may be illuminated on the dash. You will need to have the engine codes pulled with a scan tool. This can be done for free at just about any local auto parts store. Post the codes below for more information.
When weather cools I get growling noise when gas is pressed, not at idle around the intake. After warm up, noise gone. No prob in summer. Car runs great. It is a 2001 Chrysler 300M 3.5 v6.
Seems to be quite a few out there with this growling noise or howling noise on cold start ups. Most have determined the problem is from loose belts, warn pulleys or low power steering fluid. It is also recommended to replace the power steering fluid with ATF+4 to help quite down the noise even though the service manual indicates not to.
Make sure the V belt for the A/C is also adjusted properly. Often needs to be tighter than most feel is needed. It will “drum” on the front cover at cold start and growl.
I have had relatively good success with replacing the drive belts and pulleys to correct the cold start moan. Or, if they are still relatively new, to re-tension them.
POWER STEERING PUMP INITIAL OPERATION
The fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from moving components. Use only Mopar® Power Steering Fluid. Do not use automatic transmission fluid. Do not overfill.
Wipe the power steering fluid reservoir and filler cap clean. Check the level of the power steering fluid in the reservoir. The power steering fluid level should be between MAX. COLD and MIN. COLD when the fluid is at a normal ambient temperature of approximately 32°C to 43°C (90°F to 110°F).
Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
Start the engine and let run for a few seconds. Then turn the engine off.
Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains constant after running the engine.
Raise the front wheels off the ground.
Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops for less than 2 seconds at a time.
Add power steering fluid if necessary.
Lower the vehicle and turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock.
Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the above procedure.
We recently took our PT Cruiser in for a tune-up. Then 2 weeks later something happened to the motor mounts and the engine came loose and destroyed the axle and damaged the transmission. I’m curious if the motor mounts are even touched during a tune up. Are they removed to make more room during the tune-up? They told us that the motor mounts failed and they don’t know why and that when that happened the loose motor mounts destroyed the axle but a friend tells me that the motor mounts being loose wouldn’t damage the axle (the opposite of what the mechanic is telling us). I also feel that when they did the tune up they didn’t put things back properly and that is what created the damage to our car.
There is no reason to touch the mounts during an engine tune up. The spark plugs and ignition coils are mounted right on top of the engine and are easily accessible after removing the upper intake manifold.
Engine Motor Mount Description
The engine mounting system consists of a four-point system utilizing two load-carrying mounts and two torque struts. The load-carrying mounts are located on each frame rail. The right mount is a hydro-elastic mount and left mount is a conventional elastomeric isolator. The two torque controlling struts are attached at the front of the engine, straddling the right side load-carrying mount. The upper torque strut connects to the suspension strut tower and the lower torque strut connects to the suspension crossmember.
Engine Motor Mount Operation
The four-point engine mounting system minimizes the transmission of structure-borne engine noise to the passenger compartment. The load-carrying right and left mounts dampen and isolate vertical motion and vibration. The two struts absorbs torque reaction forces and torsional vibrations.
I have a “crank no start” problem with my 1999 Chrysler Concorde LXI 3.2l v6. Replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Replaced spark plugs. Still had the same problem. Took it to a “mechanic” who told me it was the computer(ECM). Paid another $333.00 for a new one that was phased to my car and still nothing. Injectors are good and tested. Coil pack good and tested. Found out that it would start when I unplugged CAMSHAFT connector but ran really rough. Only code I would get is a Code P0200 – Injector Circuit Malfunction. Please help. Am at wits end.
Code P0200 CHRYSLER – Fuel Injector Circuit
The P0200 is set if the Engine Control Module (ECM) is detects a low or high voltage drop or resistance at the injectors. The Engine Control Module (ECM) checks the injectors circuit resistance and monitors the voltage drop during normal operation. The ECM will trigger the P0200 code when the resistance or voltage drop at the injectors is out of specifications.
Code P0200 Possible Symptoms
– Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
– Lack/Loss of Power
– The engine may be harder to start
– Engine hesitation
Code P0200 Possible causes
– Fuel Injector wiring harness is open or shorted
– Fuel injector circuit poor electrical connection
– Faulty fuel injector
– Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Yes. If you have a box of tools and are mechanically inclined. One retaining bolt and one electrical plug. It will take you longer to put the car up on jack stands then it will to remove the speed sensor. Have the speed sensor shipped right to your house.
I double checked to make sure this rear wheel speed sensor will fit your 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser. And it’s under $50. If you spend a $1 more the shipping is free.
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Description
The Mark 20e system uses two-wire wheel speed sensors, known as active wheel speed sensors. The sensors use an electronic principle known as magnetoresistive to help increase performance and durability. The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digital signal. A wheel speed sensor is used at each wheel. The gear (tooth) type tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each sensor. At each wheel of the vehicle there is one wheel speed sensor and one tone wheel.
The rear wheel speed sensors are mounted through the disc brake adapter (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor) (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor). The rear tone wheels are mounted to and rotate with the hub and bearing assemblies.
The WSS air gaps are not adjustable. The initial factory WSS air gap specification can be found in SPECIFICATIONS. Each WSS is serviced individually. The tone wheels are serviced as an assembly with the hub and bearing assemblies.
Rear Speed Sensor Operation
The CAB sends 12 volts to power an Integrated Circuit (IC) in the sensor. The IC supplies a constant 7 mA power supply to the CAB. The relationship of the tooth on the tone wheel to the permanent magnet in the sensor, signals the IC to enable a second 7 mA power supply. The output of the sensor, sent to the CAB, is a DC voltage signal with changing voltage and current levels. The ground for the IC and the current sense circuit is provided by the CAB.
When a valley of the tone wheel is aligned with the sensor, the voltage signal is approximately 0.8 volts and a constant 7 mA current is sent to the CAB. As the tone wheel rotates, the tooth shifts the magnetic field and the IC enables a second 7 mA current source. The CAB senses a voltage signal of approximately 1.6 volts and 14 mA. The CAB measures the amperage of the digital signal for each wheel. The resulting signal is interpreted by the ABS CAB as the wheel speed.
Rear Speed Sensor Removal
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable connector from the vehicle wiring harness (Wheel Speed Sensor Connector). Remove the clip attaching wheel speed sensor cable connector to the vehicle’s body.
1 – RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 – FUEL TANK
3 – EVAPORATIVE CANISTER
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable routing clips running along the brake tube, brake hose and axle trailing arm.
CAUTION: When removing a wheel speed sensor from the rear disc brake adapter, do not use pliers on the sensor head. This may damage the sensor head. If the sensor has seized, use a hammer and a punch to tap the edge of the sensor head ear, rocking the sensor side-to-side until free.
Remove the bolt attaching the wheel speed sensor to the rear disc brake adapter (Wheel Speed Sensor), then carefully remove the sensor head from the rear disc brake adapter and vehicle.
Having AC problems. When car is first started, the AC will only blow warm (AC compressor does not come on). I have to drive the car several miles, stop and turn it off. After several minutes I start it again and rev the engine up and down for 10 or 15 minutes. Eventually the compressor kicks on and the AC blows ice cold. I can stop the car for about an hour and when I start it again it still works. Any longer than that and I have to start the process all over again. When AC is working I can check the refrigerant charge and it’s perfect. Any help with this problem would really be appreciated. THANK YOU!!
My best guess would be the Air Conditioning Relay sticking or a failed low pressure switch(compressor cycling switch).
I recently replaced the ignition unit on my car after the engine would die while warming up and never start again until the engine would completely cool down again. Since replacing the unit the engine will die a couple of times but restart and continue to run after reaching full operating temperature. Can you tell me why this is happening and how to correct it completely?
First thing to do would be to pull any engine trouble codes. This can be done without a scan tool .
The most common reason for this would be a failed Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation
The coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor; a temperature controlled variable resistor with a range of −40°–265°F (5°–129°C) mounted in the engine coolant stream. The PCM uses the temperature input to adjust the fuel mixture slightly richer and raise the idle speed, until normal operating temperatures are reached. On all models, this sensor is also used to control the cooling (radiator) fan operation.
The PCM supplies 5.0 volts to the coolant temperature sensor. The sensor provides an input voltage to the PCM. As coolant temperature varies, the sensor resistance changes resulting in different input voltage to the PCM.
When the engine is cold, the PCM will demand slightly richer air/fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The coolant temperature sensor changes resistance as the coolant temperature increases and decreases.
Coolant Temperature Sensor Testing
Remove the temperature sender from the engine.
Position the water temperature sending unit in such a way that the metal shaft (opposite end from the electrical connectors) is situated in a pot of water. Make sure that the electrical connector is not submerged and that only the tip of the sending unit’s body is in the water.
Heat the pot of water at a medium rate. While the water is warming, continue to measure the resistance of the terminal and the metal body of the sending unit:
As the water warms up, the resistance exhibited by the ohmmeter goes down in a steady manner: the sending unit is good.
As the water warms up, the resistance does not change or changes in erratic jumps: the sender is bad, replace it with a new one.
Install the good or new sending unit into the engine, then connect the negative battery cable.
2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser has 137,000miles on it. 3 weeks ago lost power, towed it in. My mechanic said replaced fuel pump. Since then car has lost power driving twice, Hard Starting and won’ start on first try like it used to. It starts second try no codes. Mechanic said car wouldn’t act up for him and couldn’t find cause at this time. runs fine for him.
A quick test the next time you try to start the car after it has set over night. Cycle the ignition key from “OFF” to “ON” hold for 3 seconds and turn back to “OFF” repeat this four times and then try to start the car. What this does is prime the fuel lines if the the pressure is bleeding off. This is a good test for hard starting engines with fuel related problems.
Fuel Delivery Description
The front wheel drive car uses a plastic fuel tank located rear center of the vehicle.
The Fuel Delivery System consists of: the following items:
Electric fuel pump module
The in-tank fuel pump module contains the fuel pump. The pump is serviced as part of the fuel pump module.
The fuel filter is not serviceable, it is mounted on the inside of the fuel tank in the fuel pump module.
Fuel Delivery Operation
The fuel system provides fuelpressure by an in-tank pump module. The PCM controls the operation of the fuel system by providing battery voltage to the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay. The PCM requires only three inputs and a good ground to operate the fuel pump relay. The three inputs are: