I have a “crank no start” problem with my 1999 Chrysler Concorde LXI 3.2l v6. Replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Replaced spark plugs. Still had the same problem. Took it to a “mechanic” who told me it was the computer(ECM). Paid another $333.00 for a new one that was phased to my car and still nothing. Injectors are good and tested. Coil pack good and tested. Found out that it would start when I unplugged CAMSHAFT connector but ran really rough. Only code I would get is a Code P0200 – Injector Circuit Malfunction. Please help. Am at wits end.
Code P0200 CHRYSLER – Fuel Injector Circuit
The P0200 is set if the Engine Control Module (ECM) is detects a low or high voltage drop or resistance at the injectors. The Engine Control Module (ECM) checks the injectors circuit resistance and monitors the voltage drop during normal operation. The ECM will trigger the P0200 code when the resistance or voltage drop at the injectors is out of specifications.
Code P0200 Possible Symptoms
– Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
– Lack/Loss of Power
– The engine may be harder to start
– Engine hesitation
Code P0200 Possible causes
– Fuel Injector wiring harness is open or shorted
– Fuel injector circuit poor electrical connection
– Faulty fuel injector
– Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Yes. If you have a box of tools and are mechanically inclined. One retaining bolt and one electrical plug. It will take you longer to put the car up on jack stands then it will to remove the speed sensor. Have the speed sensor shipped right to your house.
I double checked to make sure this rear wheel speed sensor will fit your 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser. And it’s under $50. If you spend a $1 more the shipping is free.
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Description
The Mark 20e system uses two-wire wheel speed sensors, known as active wheel speed sensors. The sensors use an electronic principle known as magnetoresistive to help increase performance and durability. The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digital signal. A wheel speed sensor is used at each wheel. The gear (tooth) type tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each sensor. At each wheel of the vehicle there is one wheel speed sensor and one tone wheel.
The rear wheel speed sensors are mounted through the disc brake adapter (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor) (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor). The rear tone wheels are mounted to and rotate with the hub and bearing assemblies.
The WSS air gaps are not adjustable. The initial factory WSS air gap specification can be found in SPECIFICATIONS. Each WSS is serviced individually. The tone wheels are serviced as an assembly with the hub and bearing assemblies.
Rear Speed Sensor Operation
The CAB sends 12 volts to power an Integrated Circuit (IC) in the sensor. The IC supplies a constant 7 mA power supply to the CAB. The relationship of the tooth on the tone wheel to the permanent magnet in the sensor, signals the IC to enable a second 7 mA power supply. The output of the sensor, sent to the CAB, is a DC voltage signal with changing voltage and current levels. The ground for the IC and the current sense circuit is provided by the CAB.
When a valley of the tone wheel is aligned with the sensor, the voltage signal is approximately 0.8 volts and a constant 7 mA current is sent to the CAB. As the tone wheel rotates, the tooth shifts the magnetic field and the IC enables a second 7 mA current source. The CAB senses a voltage signal of approximately 1.6 volts and 14 mA. The CAB measures the amperage of the digital signal for each wheel. The resulting signal is interpreted by the ABS CAB as the wheel speed.
Rear Speed Sensor Removal
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable connector from the vehicle wiring harness (Wheel Speed Sensor Connector). Remove the clip attaching wheel speed sensor cable connector to the vehicle’s body.
1 – RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 – FUEL TANK
3 – EVAPORATIVE CANISTER
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable routing clips running along the brake tube, brake hose and axle trailing arm.
CAUTION: When removing a wheel speed sensor from the rear disc brake adapter, do not use pliers on the sensor head. This may damage the sensor head. If the sensor has seized, use a hammer and a punch to tap the edge of the sensor head ear, rocking the sensor side-to-side until free.
Remove the bolt attaching the wheel speed sensor to the rear disc brake adapter (Wheel Speed Sensor), then carefully remove the sensor head from the rear disc brake adapter and vehicle.
Having AC problems. When car is first started, the AC will only blow warm (AC compressor does not come on). I have to drive the car several miles, stop and turn it off. After several minutes I start it again and rev the engine up and down for 10 or 15 minutes. Eventually the compressor kicks on and the AC blows ice cold. I can stop the car for about an hour and when I start it again it still works. Any longer than that and I have to start the process all over again. When AC is working I can check the refrigerant charge and it’s perfect. Any help with this problem would really be appreciated. THANK YOU!!
My best guess would be the Air Conditioning Relay sticking or a failed low pressure switch(compressor cycling switch).
I recently replaced the ignition unit on my car after the engine would die while warming up and never start again until the engine would completely cool down again. Since replacing the unit the engine will die a couple of times but restart and continue to run after reaching full operating temperature. Can you tell me why this is happening and how to correct it completely?
First thing to do would be to pull any engine trouble codes. This can be done without a scan tool .
The most common reason for this would be a failed Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation
The coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor; a temperature controlled variable resistor with a range of −40°–265°F (5°–129°C) mounted in the engine coolant stream. The PCM uses the temperature input to adjust the fuel mixture slightly richer and raise the idle speed, until normal operating temperatures are reached. On all models, this sensor is also used to control the cooling (radiator) fan operation.
The PCM supplies 5.0 volts to the coolant temperature sensor. The sensor provides an input voltage to the PCM. As coolant temperature varies, the sensor resistance changes resulting in different input voltage to the PCM.
When the engine is cold, the PCM will demand slightly richer air/fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The coolant temperature sensor changes resistance as the coolant temperature increases and decreases.
Coolant Temperature Sensor Testing
Remove the temperature sender from the engine.
Position the water temperature sending unit in such a way that the metal shaft (opposite end from the electrical connectors) is situated in a pot of water. Make sure that the electrical connector is not submerged and that only the tip of the sending unit’s body is in the water.
Heat the pot of water at a medium rate. While the water is warming, continue to measure the resistance of the terminal and the metal body of the sending unit:
As the water warms up, the resistance exhibited by the ohmmeter goes down in a steady manner: the sending unit is good.
As the water warms up, the resistance does not change or changes in erratic jumps: the sender is bad, replace it with a new one.
Install the good or new sending unit into the engine, then connect the negative battery cable.
2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser has 137,000miles on it. 3 weeks ago lost power, towed it in. My mechanic said replaced fuel pump. Since then car has lost power driving twice, Hard Starting and won’ start on first try like it used to. It starts second try no codes. Mechanic said car wouldn’t act up for him and couldn’t find cause at this time. runs fine for him.
A quick test the next time you try to start the car after it has set over night. Cycle the ignition key from “OFF” to “ON” hold for 3 seconds and turn back to “OFF” repeat this four times and then try to start the car. What this does is prime the fuel lines if the the pressure is bleeding off. This is a good test for hard starting engines with fuel related problems.
Fuel Delivery Description
The front wheel drive car uses a plastic fuel tank located rear center of the vehicle.
The Fuel Delivery System consists of: the following items:
Electric fuel pump module
The in-tank fuel pump module contains the fuel pump. The pump is serviced as part of the fuel pump module.
The fuel filter is not serviceable, it is mounted on the inside of the fuel tank in the fuel pump module.
Fuel Delivery Operation
The fuel system provides fuelpressure by an in-tank pump module. The PCM controls the operation of the fuel system by providing battery voltage to the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay. The PCM requires only three inputs and a good ground to operate the fuel pump relay. The three inputs are:
How to replace ac/heater control panel.. vacuum lines may not be in right?
Should be only one way for the vacuum harness connector to attach. Maybe the AC Heater Control Panel Diagram below will help. It looks like the vacuum line effect the re-circulation of the Air Conditioning.
Remove Control Panel Bezel
Remove Center Air Duct
Remove the screws that secure the AC Heater Control to the instrument panel
Remove the A/C-heater control from the instrument panel to gain access to the vacuum harness, control cables and wire harness at the rear of the A/C-heater control. NOTE: To aid in reinstallation, note the installed position of the vacuum harness prior to removal.
Disconnect the vacuum harness and wire harness from the rear of the A/C-heater control (Vacuum Harness, Control Cables and Wiring Harness). NOTE: To aid in reinstallation, note the installed positions of the control cables prior to removal.
Disconnect the control cables from the mode and temperature control levers at the rear of the A/C-heater control.
Remove the A/C-heater control from the vehicle.
WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
MODE CONTROL LEVER
CABLE RETAINING CLIP
MODE CONTROL CABLE
TEMPERATURE CONTROL LEVER
CABLE RETAINING CLIP
TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLE
VACUUM HARNESS CONNECTOR
AC Heater Control Panel Description
Both the heater-only and heater-A/C systems use a combination of, electrical, cable, and vacuum controls. These controls provide the vehicle operator with a number of setting options to help control the climate and comfort within the vehicle.
The A/C-heater control for the heater-only or the heater-A/C system is located to the right of the instrument cluster in the instrument panel. The A/C-heater control contains rotary-type knobs. There is a blower motor speed switch, mode control switch, temperature control, and airflow control.
The A/C-heater control cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced. The control knobs and the illumination lamps are available for service replacement.
Vehicles equipped with A/C use vacuum to operate the re-circulation door. A vacuum check valve is connected to the brake booster vacuum supply. The vacuum check valve is designed to allow vacuum to flow in only one direction through the accessory vacuum supply circuits and to stabilize the vacuum within the HVAC re-circulation circuit whenever the vehicle is accelerating or engine vacuum varies due to operating conditions.
The use of a vacuum check valve helps to maintain the system vacuum needed to retain the selected heating-A/C mode settings. The check valve will prevent the engine from bleeding down system vacuum through the intake manifold during extended heavy engine load (low engine vacuum) operation.
The vacuum check valve cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
I have a 2008 Chrysler 300 LX 2.7. And my oil pressure light keeps coming on after I’m braking/stopped. I changed the oil and oil filter and changed the oil pressure switch and the light still keeps coming on. And while driving the oil pressure light stays off.
The next step would be to have the oil pressure checked. Your engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpm. So you need 30 psi at 3,000 rpm and 6 psi at 600 rpm. and so on.
An actual gauge will be able to show you if everything is alright.
My 2005 Chrysler Town And Country’s AC Fan Motor in the front works some times. The back one always works. I am trying to find out is it more likely that the resistor is going out or the fan motor?
The AC Fan motor should be replaced. Your air conditioning system is working as it should. When the fan motor is working the different speeds work so the resistor is fine. The resistor has no moving parts so it works on all speeds or it doesn’t. If the AC fan motor only worked on High speed then I would recommend replacing the resistor. The Fan motor has internal brushes that wear and will act as you described when going out. So replacing the AC Fan Motor should fix you right up. That is after you confirm the blower motor relay is providing power to the blower motor when it isn’t working. Otherwise you will need to replace the blower motor relay. There is a separate relay for the front motor and the rear motor. When testing make sure to set the fan speed on high. This provides direct voltage with no resistance from the resistor.
AC Fan Motor(blower motor) wiring diagram 2005 Chrysler Town and Country
If any recent work has been performed that would be a good place to start. If any recent brake work has been performed a bolt may have been left out on a rear brake caliper, etc. It may be prevalent to place the vehicle on four jack stands and see if the car bucks when no longer on the ground. Check for anything loose in the suspension. Try to determine if it is more from the front or rear. Can you feel anything in the steering wheel, etc. when the bucking occurs?