For sure it is a transmission related issue. There may be a code stored that will enlighten us as to the specific cause. Since we do not have the code I will give you an idea of what it could be. Most likely a sticking shift solenoid or faulty VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor.
Chrysler Code P0752 – 1-2 or 4-5 Shift Solenoid Fault
Code P0752 Possible causes
Low transmission fluid level
Dirty transmission fluid
Faulty solenoid valve
Shift Solenoid valve harness or connectors
Shift Solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted
Code P0752 Possible symptoms
Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Estimated time for a shop to replace a single front brake caliper is 0.8 hours or 1.4 for both.
Caliper Replacement Tools
Vehicle Jack and Stands – Used to raise and support vehicle.
Wheel Lug Nut Removal Tool – used to remove wheel.
Brake Pedal Depressing Tool (Holding Tool) – This is to hold the brake pedal down to isolate the master cylinder from the hydraulic system. It disallows the brake fluid to completely drain out of the brake reservoir.
Metric Socket Set and Ratchet 8mm – 19mm – Used to remove retaining bolts.
Drain Pan – Used to catch brake fluid.
C-Clamp – Used to compress the replacement caliper if necessary.
Torque Wrench – Used to install the Banjo bolt with new washers to 35 ft. lbs.
Brake Caliper Mounting Description
Caliper Mounting Bolts
Not a tool but you will need brake fluid and probably a few rags.
Chrysler Code P0700 – Transaxle Control System Malfunction
Since the P0700 is just and informative code, check the TCM for more codes to resolve the problem.
Shorted or open circuit within Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
P0700 Chrysler Description
The transaxle Control Module (TCM) monitors the malfunction of sensors and actuators relating to transaxle control. When the TCM detects a malfunction with the control, a signal is send to the Engine Control Module (ECM) to trigger the Engine Light or Service Engine Soon light. The ECM stores the P0700 code and it means the TCM detected a malfunction with the transaxle controls.
I recently put a thermostat in my car. When I went to change it there wasn’t even one in it. So after I got one in I started my car. It ran just fine. The heat was working perfect so I shut it off and picked up all my tools. I then went to starting it again and it wouldn’t start. It would just turn over slowly. So after about 15 minutes it finally started. I drove it for about 20 minutes and it died on me. It keeps doing this after about 15 or 20 minutes after I start it, it will die. And when it dies it takes a few minutes for it to start back almost like there’s not enough juice to turn it over. But like I said if you give it a few minutes it will start right back up.
I am wondering if the temperature gauge is reading hot when it dies. So, I am guessing there was a reason you decided to replace the thermostat in the first place. I am guessing the engine was overheating and you have possibly blown a head gasket. This is common for this engine. I am guessing that the coolant is getting into the cylinders and causing the engine to die. It is also giving a slow crank as the cooling system pressure is built up in the cylinders when you try to restart after it dies. Yet after letting is sit the pressure bleeds off and the engine cranks over a bit faster. A way to be certain would be to perform a compression test on each cylinder.
There is a rumbling noise when I drive that turns into a loud roar, similar to that of an airplane lifting off, when I apply the brakes. It happens even if I am applying them gently. What could be causing this? There is no squealing noise, and it is coming from the rear of the vehicle.
Most common reason for the rumbling noise described is a brake issue. Most likely the brake pads have completely worn away and you are metal on metal. Disassembly of the brakes will be required for an accurate inspection to be performed. You will probably need to have the rear brake pads and brake rotors replaced. Would also be a good idea to have the rear brake calipers inspected for any damage.
Brake Caliper Inspection
Inspect the disc brake caliper for the following:
Brake fluid leaks in and around boot area and inboard lining
Ruptures, brittleness or damage to the piston dust boot
Damaged, dry or brittle guide pin dust boots
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondition caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots.
The engine will not rev past 3,000 rpm in park or neutral. This is to prevent damage to the engine and preserve the warranty. This is accomplished with a built in rev limiter. If this is occurring while driving there may be an issue causing the computer to enter into low power mode. A check engine light may be illuminated on the dash. You will need to have the engine codes pulled with a scan tool. This can be done for free at just about any local auto parts store. Post the codes below for more information.
When weather cools I get growling noise when gas is pressed, not at idle around the intake. After warm up, noise gone. No prob in summer. Car runs great. It is a 2001 Chrysler 300M 3.5 v6.
Seems to be quite a few out there with this growling noise or howling noise on cold start ups. Most have determined the problem is from loose belts, warn pulleys or low power steering fluid. It is also recommended to replace the power steering fluid with ATF+4 to help quite down the noise even though the service manual indicates not to.
Make sure the V belt for the A/C is also adjusted properly. Often needs to be tighter than most feel is needed. It will “drum” on the front cover at cold start and growl.
I have had relatively good success with replacing the drive belts and pulleys to correct the cold start moan. Or, if they are still relatively new, to re-tension them.
POWER STEERING PUMP INITIAL OPERATION
The fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from moving components. Use only Mopar® Power Steering Fluid. Do not use automatic transmission fluid. Do not overfill.
Wipe the power steering fluid reservoir and filler cap clean. Check the level of the power steering fluid in the reservoir. The power steering fluid level should be between MAX. COLD and MIN. COLD when the fluid is at a normal ambient temperature of approximately 32°C to 43°C (90°F to 110°F).
Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
Start the engine and let run for a few seconds. Then turn the engine off.
Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains constant after running the engine.
Raise the front wheels off the ground.
Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops for less than 2 seconds at a time.
Add power steering fluid if necessary.
Lower the vehicle and turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock.
Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the above procedure.
We recently took our PT Cruiser in for a tune-up. Then 2 weeks later something happened to the motor mounts and the engine came loose and destroyed the axle and damaged the transmission. I’m curious if the motor mounts are even touched during a tune up. Are they removed to make more room during the tune-up? They told us that the motor mounts failed and they don’t know why and that when that happened the loose motor mounts destroyed the axle but a friend tells me that the motor mounts being loose wouldn’t damage the axle (the opposite of what the mechanic is telling us). I also feel that when they did the tune up they didn’t put things back properly and that is what created the damage to our car.
There is no reason to touch the mounts during an engine tune up. The spark plugs and ignition coils are mounted right on top of the engine and are easily accessible after removing the upper intake manifold.
Engine Motor Mount Description
The engine mounting system consists of a four-point system utilizing two load-carrying mounts and two torque struts. The load-carrying mounts are located on each frame rail. The right mount is a hydro-elastic mount and left mount is a conventional elastomeric isolator. The two torque controlling struts are attached at the front of the engine, straddling the right side load-carrying mount. The upper torque strut connects to the suspension strut tower and the lower torque strut connects to the suspension crossmember.
Engine Motor Mount Operation
The four-point engine mounting system minimizes the transmission of structure-borne engine noise to the passenger compartment. The load-carrying right and left mounts dampen and isolate vertical motion and vibration. The two struts absorbs torque reaction forces and torsional vibrations.
I have a “crank no start” problem with my 1999 Chrysler Concorde LXI 3.2l v6. Replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Replaced spark plugs. Still had the same problem. Took it to a “mechanic” who told me it was the computer(ECM). Paid another $333.00 for a new one that was phased to my car and still nothing. Injectors are good and tested. Coil pack good and tested. Found out that it would start when I unplugged CAMSHAFT connector but ran really rough. Only code I would get is a Code P0200 – Injector Circuit Malfunction. Please help. Am at wits end.
Code P0200 CHRYSLER – Fuel Injector Circuit
The P0200 is set if the Engine Control Module (ECM) is detects a low or high voltage drop or resistance at the injectors. The Engine Control Module (ECM) checks the injectors circuit resistance and monitors the voltage drop during normal operation. The ECM will trigger the P0200 code when the resistance or voltage drop at the injectors is out of specifications.
Code P0200 Possible Symptoms
– Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
– Lack/Loss of Power
– The engine may be harder to start
– Engine hesitation
Code P0200 Possible causes
– Fuel Injector wiring harness is open or shorted
– Fuel injector circuit poor electrical connection
– Faulty fuel injector
– Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)