My vehicle has no power, no crank, no sound, no power. I replaced alternator and battery. Still no power need help please.
You have a blown fuse or bad connection at the battery. There is an inline fuse called a PREFUSE. This is on the red wire that connects from the battery positive tot he alternator. So you can us a multi-meter and check for battery voltage at the alternator. If you do not see battery voltage there then most likely the PREFUSE is blown. Repair or replace as needed.
What will be causing my head light and tail lights to go out. They do not come back on after I have replaced the bulbs. Consequently I think that a fuse has blown in my car. please help
Possible causes would be a blown fuse as you mentioned, a failed headlight switch or lighting module failure. Furthermore some issue may be involved with the wiring harness. Or wiring connection issues but are not as common as the other reasons.
Headlight Switch Operation
The headlight switch operates in 7 positions. The 12 o’clock position is off. The 11 o’clock position will turn on the right side parking lights. The 10 o’clock position will turn on the left side parking lights. The 1 o’clock position will turn on all parking lights, marker lights and instrument panel lights. The 2 o’clock position will turn on the headlights and parking lights. To activate front fog lights, pull headlight knob out to first click. To turn on rear fog light ion addition to front fog lights, pull headlight switch knob out 2 clicks. Fog lights will only turn on if the headlights are in the low beam position, or when all parking lights are on.
My car has been acting weird recently. It idles roughly (sometimes violently), consumes loads of fuel and at times accelerates sluggishly. The engine light comes on with Code P0102 (air flow circuit too small) and Code P0172 (Mix bank 1 rich).
What should be me course of action to remedy the problems?
Appreciate your assistance!
Before replacing the mass air flow sensor, try replacing the air filter and cleaning the air flow sensor with low compress air or mass air flow sensor cleaner. Reset code and drive vehicle. If the code comes back, it may be necessary to replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The Code P0102 is set when an excessively low voltage from the sensor is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).
Mercedes-Benz Code P0102 – Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. It consists of a hot film that is supplied with electric current from the Engine Control Module (ECM).
Temperature of the hot film is controlled by the ECM a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot film is reduced as the intake air flows around it. More air, the greater the heat loss. Therefore, the ECM must supply more electric current to maintain the temperature of the hot film as air flow increases. The ECM detects the air flow by means of this current change.
Code P0102 Possible symptoms
Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
The Engine stalls
Engine running rough
Excessive fuel consumption
Code P0102 Possible causes
Faulty mass air flow sensor
Intake air leaks
Dirty mass air flow sensor
Dirty mass air filter
Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted
Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Mercedes Benz CodeP0172 – System Too Rich Bank 1
With the Air/Fuel Mixture Ratio Self-Learning Control, the actual mixture ratio can be brought closely to the theoretical mixture ratio based on the mixture ratio feedback signal from the heated oxygen sensors 1. The Engine Control Module (ECM) calculates the necessary compensation to correct the offset between the actual and the theoretical ratios.
In case the amount of the compensation value is extremely large (The actual mixture ratio is too lean.), the ECM judges the condition as the fuel injection system malfunction and light up the MIL (2 trip detection logic).
2002 Mercedes C230 won’t shift to reverse or park, stuck in neutral and drive.
My best guess would be a damaged shift cable. Disconnect the cable from the shifter and see if it moves. If not the shifter itself is damaged. If it moves, reconnect the cable to the shifter and disconnect the other end. If it does not move, the cable is damaged. If it does move, internal transmission issue.
Many types of power steering pumps are used on Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Use only the instructions that apply to your vehicle. See Chapter 1 for procedures to loosen or adjust power steering pump drive belt.
1974–76 230, 240D and 300D Models
Remove the wing nut on the reservoir and remove the cover, spring, and damping plate.
Suck the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe.
Loosen the hose on the pump and plug both pump and hose.
On pumps with the reservoir attached, loosen the return hose and plug it.
On other types, loosen the connecting hose from the reservoir to the pump.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the nut from the pulley shaft. On pumps with cylindrical shafts, remove the pulley.
On pumps with tapered shafts, pull the pulley from the shaft with a jaw type puller.
Unscrew both front mounting bolts.
Remove the rear mounting bolt with spacer.
Remove the pump from the mounting bracket.
On all 4 cylinder models, remove the screws between the pump housing and the bracket. Remove the pump and pulley.
Installation, in all cases, is the reverse of removal.
Except 1974–76 230, 240D and 300D Models
Remove the nut from the supply tank.
Remove the spring and damping plate.
Drain the oil from the tank with a syringe.
Loosen and remove the expanding and return hoses from the pump. Plug all connections and pump openings.
If necessary for clearance, loosen the radiator shell. Loosen the mounting bolts, and move the pump toward the engine by using the toothed wheel. Remove the belt. Remove the pulley, and then remove the pump.
Loosen the nut on the attaching plate and the bolt on the support.
Push the pump toward the engine and remove the belts from the pulley.
Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the pump and carrier.
Loud squeal at cold start up in the morning getting worse.
The most common cause for this would be from the Serpentine Belt. The belt is worn, loose or been exposed to anti-freeze. If the belt is worn, replace it. If the belts are loose, tighten them. If the belt has been exposed to anti-freeze, it is safe to drive but the noise will not go away permanently unless you replace it.