REPLACED FUEL PUMP THREE TIMES WHEN IT DRIVES IT HAS NO POWER WHAT COULD THIS BE
I was replacing fuel filter on my 2012 ML350 BlueTec, when I noticed that thermostat is missing temperature sensor on top (its black plastic electrical connector is seen on top of 365 picture, attached). Strange, but I also found loose, but capped electrical connector with wire harness length matching sensor location. Part number for thermostat is 6422001615 On part diagram I don’t see separate part number for the sensor, not sure if sensor is shown on the drawing either. Car works fine, displays coolant temperature on dash, no OBD2 warnings or console messages, no SEL. I wonder if someone knows whether this sensor can be purchased separately. Is there a part# for it? Should it be installed on 2012 ml350 bluetec model? Last pic shows that it was installed on 2011 model. Air inlet and charge pipe look like on prev. gen of OM642 installed on W164). But part# is, I think, the same for W164 and W166.
Thank you for your expertise in this matter.
I start my car and then put it in reverse and it stalls. It won’t turn over and I have to jump it. After jumping it, I put it in reverse again and it repeats the process. What is wrong with it?
Need help instructions to remove oil pan (busted w/lg hole)
4 xmpl: when lift 2″ do I remove transmission support
and do I disengage header/exhaust pipe (2 ea.) ??
how about torsion bar…??
On the week of August 11th I took my new 1987 560 SL
To a mechanic to check the breaks that squeaked and alignment because car slightly pulled to left.
He said I had to sign an estimate sheet and write down the items. I did so. 2 days later I called to ask what he found out. He asked that I stop by. He then told me the transmission and oil were leaking terribly. I let him know that I has it sitting in my garage and has driven it several times and there was no trace of leakage on garage floor. He insisted it was and that I was lucky the car had not blown up. I went and looked up all the service records I had obtained from the seller. One item was a new Airconditioning unit had been installed. It was fine prior to visit, the key just needed to be jiggled in order for the fan to turn on. He insisted it needed a new AC unit and that the parts were very difficult to find as well. Anyway when asked how much money he thought is was going to cost he said he did not know. I then left and brought my husband back the following day with all of the written reports that had been supplied to me by the sellers of the car. Then he said oh yes the AC does seem to be working. (As is was indicated on reports) Lucky it was just in the ignition switch. Now and after day one, the car was dissembled. He says I needed a new transmission, new this new that and when asked again how much he said I don’t know yet. Then he says maybe you should just get rid of the car, that he told me the first day was going to be a collectors item someday. My husband returned again and asked for a written estimate of repairs the car needed and the costs. Then he just started talking fast and in circles. Never with a definite answer, just that our questions had become to overwhelming and he preferred not to work on the car because it was too old. Again my husband asked what is it going to cost me to get this car back together and drive-able? He stated it would be done for no more than $2000. Still nothing in writing. Only statements that he is saving us a huge amount of money.
We are about to pick the car up today and the total has now creeped up to $2,600 approximately verbally on phone. What shall I write on the check that I am obviously going to have to pay him, to get the car back in working condition. Any advice.
Thanks novice !
After exactly 90 seconds after start up the engine fluctuates for a few seconds hunting for air, I get P0101, P0102 and P0172 code. MAF is fine and I checked for leaks.
My son owns a 2006 mercedes-benz with an automatic door lock problem on the right front passenger door. All other doors work fine, when the transmission is in drive and you start to move forward all other doors work just fine EXCEPT the right front door. That door will chatter several times and sometimes end up in the locked position and other times in the unlocked position.
I think the problem exist in the solenoid or module which mechanically operates the lock mechanism. Is that part replaceable by itself? What is the part number of the part? I am looking for a diagnosis, suggestions, any and all help that you may give me. Thank you , schaffer81
when at idle a/c blows cold air ,when driving no cold air.
I drive a 2014 Mercedes Benz CLA 250, which I bought in January, I find a gradually worsening problem with its transmission, with poor throttle response and lumpy and jerky shifts under some hard acceleration. When I showed it to the dealer the first time, they denied finding any problems, however, they seemed to have reset the transmission and it worked, but after a few hours of driving, it went back to being erratic. I, now, also hear and feel a light metallic clunk during downshifts and it has steadily gone worse in terms of throttle response, be it in the ECO mode or Manual mode, Sport mode is ok (probably, due to the high revs, I cant very easily distinguish poor response).
I have read in reviews that the car is lazy in ECO mode, but my car shows a distinct and noticeable lag in throttle response (0.3-0.5 sec) even from stop, same with reverse, it needs a little more than a push to the pedal to get into motion. I have complained about this to different dealers, but they all deny any problems and insist that the car is functioning as designed. I didnt have any problems for the first month after purchase, so I was very happy with its performance then.
How can I determine if this is really a problem in my car, please advise? FYI, the fuel economy seems OK (25-27 mixed driving), but I believe that is because I am very light footed with the accelerator now, as it doesn’t offer any fun, driving normally. I can provide more details of the problem if needed.