I hear a knocking sound coming from the engine and its bit bad for speeds above 50 mph. I recently replaced spark plugs with recommended aftermarket ones and did an oil change. However, this noise goes away (or settle down) when I steer the wheel to right (even a very little to the right) and its consistent. Please tell me where do I begin. Thanks
If the noise can only be reproduced when driving and not by revving the engine in park, it is most likely not in the engine. Since the noise can be changed when steering, looking at things attached to the front wheels would be the best place to start looking. Here is an excellent article to get you started.
My clutch pedal keeps shearing, Do I need to replace clutch? and, it was towed from the front, when putting transfer case in neutral, rear wheels are still engaged, had to tow in 2wheel drive,, Then found out it was supposed to be towed from the rear!,, What happened to the transfer case ? why wont it go into neutral?
Hard to tell without taking it apart and seeing what is broken. This is just one of those things that doesn’t happen that often. Not common enough to be able to make a significant guess. Tearing into it is going to be required for this one.
I recently replaced the hydraulic lifters, timing chains and tensioners. I also replaced the water pump, crankshaft sensor, maf sensor, hoses, gaskets, valve guides and seals and re-machined both heads. The passenger side backfires. And the catalytic converter overheats on the passenger side. My 2002 Suzuki xl7 2.7L V6 2wd gains speed very weak and slowly no matter how much I press the gas. I am at a loss. The exhaust system is not clogged anywhere. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I suspect all your issues are related. The converter is burning excessive fuel making it hot. This can happen from a stuck open fuel injector or fuel being sprayed at the wrong TIME. Back firing happens when the fuel is sparked at the wrong TIME. The engine can only backfire when the fuel is sparked and the valves are open. Also with the engine not wanting to accelerate for you, this can occur with poor ignition TIMING. Do we see the trend here. After you install the timing chain it is recommended that the engine be turned over a couple times and the timing marks re-checked.
Ignition Timing for interference engines
Engines, chain- or belt-driven, can be classified as either free-running or interference, depending on what would happen if the piston-to-valve timing is disrupted. A free-running engine is designed with enough clearance between the pistons and valves to allow the crankshaft to rotate (pistons still moving) while the camshaft stays in one position (several valves fully open). If this condition occurs normally, no internal engine damage will result. In an interference engine, there is not enough clearance between the pistons and valves to allow the crankshaft to turn without the camshaft being in time.
An interference engine can suffer extensive internal damage if a timing belt fails. The piston design does not allow clearance for the valve to be fully open and the piston to be at the top of its stroke. If the belt fails, the piston will collide with the valve and will bend or break the valve, damage the piston, and/or bend a connecting rod. When this type of failure occurs, the engine will need to be replaced or disassembled for further internal inspection; either choice costing many times that of replacing the timing belt.
I recently rebuilt the engine in my 2006 Suzuki Reno. And after I reinstalled the engine it ran fine. Now I have problems with the transmission. I didn’t do anything to the transmission but disconnect from the engine. Before I took it off the jack stands I made sure the drive wheel (left front) operated in drive and reverse however the right front would not turn. With the car in neutral the left wheel turns with some effort but the right wheel will not turn at all. Also with the car still on the stands when I shift the transmission from drive to neutral the left wheel stops turning almost immediately.
I would suspect that maybe the placement of the jack stands have the axle shafts hanging lower than normal. Try placing the jack stands under the control arms. Also look for anything that may have got in the way and is now binding the axle shaft. Look for that screw driver you dropped or wrench. You get the idea.
If that all checks out, confirm the brake caliper is not locked up on that side. This occurs often when a vehicle has been setting for a while. Remove the brake caliper and see if it will move.
HI, I have a 2008 Suzuki Forenza. The other day I went to shut it off and it would not shut off. In order to get it to shut off I had to pull the positive and wiggle the fuse box that is under the hood. I unhooked the alternator and started the car and tried to shut it off but it still would not shut off. It also keeps frying the stop lamp fuse.
I have a 2005 Suzuki Forenza. I have had the car less than a year, and I estimate that there is about 156,XXX miles on it. About two months ago my speedometer and odometer quit working. Shortly thereafter, the transmission started jumping when placed in Reverse or Drive. About a week later, the car became stuck in 2nd gear. It takes off in 2nd, stays in 2nd. Most recently, the car has been stalling out when I am stopped or about to stop. If I turn it back on, it starts normal, but immediately shuts off. However, I can turn it on and give it gas to keep it on. I have had my mechanic pull codes, as the check engine light has been on since the instruments quit working. There are codes U0101- Lost communication w/trans; P0113- Intake Air Temp Sens. High Input (which my car is actually not even equipped with); P0300- Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected. I have replaced the ECM, since the original thought was it might be bad, however that has failed to solve any problems with my vehicle. What could this possibly be? Is this multiple things causing a bunch of problems or one thing causing problems?
i have check engine light on so i wanted to know the codes on it problem is when you plug the scanner in it wont show any codes it comes up as its not plugged in or no power to device i was told by auto zone to check both ecm fuses but both are good what else would cause this?