I have had no problem with my transmission then Thursday night, after stopping at a stop sign when I went to take off, it wouldn’t move I finally tried 3 no luck, went down to 2 it moved, after getting up to speed I was able to slide in back into drive, but every time I stopped I would have to drop it back down to 2, Friday morning they added fluid to it, when I left for work I had to drop it down to 1, when I tried to shift it back up to drive it wouldn’t go, can a transmission go out that quick or could it be something else?
Can a transmission go out that quick?
Short answer, Yes. Heat is the number one cause for a transmission burning up. A unit low on fluid is exposed to even more heat and would hurry the process. That being said, in most cases if the transmission is burned up the fluid color will be dark and have a burnt smell. If the fluid looks nice and clean then the odds are it is an issue with the valve body solenoids.
Finally, using a white paper towel dab a little bit of fresh transmission fluid on it. This will give you something to compare the current fluid color to. No add a little bit of the cars transmission fluid next to the clean on the paper towel and compare.
loud ratcheting noise while making turns, f, dissipates on acceleration, occasional pop when changing lanes or further acceleration. have replaced both cv half shafts and sway links. does make vehicle noticeably move when turning
View of the Borg-Warner model 13-54 with mechanical shift. Electronic shift and model 44-05 are similar
Transfer Case Identification
There are three transfer cases used on the Ranger, Explorer and Mountaineer. There are 2 versions of the Borg Warner 13-54 (mechanical shift and electronic shift), a Borg Warner 44-05 (Control Trac) and an All Wheel Drive (AWD) transfer case.
The Borg Warner 13-54, mechanical shift transfer case, is a 3-piece aluminum part time unit. It transfers power from the transmission to the rear axle and when actuated, also the front drive axle. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement oil pump that channels oil flow through drilled holes in the rear output shaft. The pump turns with the rear output shaft and allows towing of the vehicle at maximum legal road speeds for extended distances without disconnecting the front and/or rear driveshaft.
Electronic Shift Transfer Case
The Borg Warner 13-54, electronic shift transfer case, transfers power from the transmission to the rear axle and also the front drive axle, when electronically actuated.
This system consists of a push button control, an electronic control module, an electric shift motor with an integral shift position sensor and a speed sensor.
The electric shift motor, mounted externally at the rear of the transfer case, drives a rotary helical cam. The cam moves the 2WD-4WD shift fork and 4H-4L reduction shift fork to the selected vehicle drive position. The system has no select-able Neutral (N) setting.
NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that the Borg Warner 13-54 transfer case equipped vehicles should not be operated in 4WD (whether HI or LOW) mode on dry pavement. Severe drive line torsional wind-up will occur, possibly damaging the drivetrain components.
The Borg Warner 44-05 transfer case operates in the same manner as the 13-54, except that it also houses a transfer case clutch. This clutch, which is controlled by the Generic Control Module (GEM), enables the vehicle to be driven in 4-wheel drive on dry pavement by cycling the clutch to compensate for different front and rear driveshaft speeds (as in turning). The system has a dealer install-able Neutral (N) position mode.
The All Wheel Drive (AWD) transfer case is a 2-piece aluminum, chain driven, viscous clutch type unit. The AWD transfer case is always active in 4-wheel drive, thus producing a full-time engagement. The viscous clutch automatically distributes power to both the front and rear wheels, depending on need.
Check fuses first. Then trace wiring. If everything checks out, replace the radio. Use the wiring diagram provided below to assist in your troubleshooting. If the radio comes on but just no sound, your radio thinks its being stolen. You will need the radio code. If it is not in your owners manual call the dealer.
I have a 2003 VW beetle with 68k miles on it. Some months ago while driving on a hwy the car felt like it was going to die and a code of EPC came on. I took it to a mechanic and they couldn’t find any issue. Seemed fine but to date several times in the past week, the car feels like it is not getting gas and trying to stall, but no code. What to do?
EPC warning light comes on
Since you did have an EPC code we can look into that issue. Odds are they are related.
Electronic Power Control System (EPC)
EPC Light on Volkswagen
The EPC warning light, also known as the Electronic Power Control warning light, is a vehicle warning indicator that indicates a problem with your Volkswagen’s throttle system, such as with the throttle pedal, throttle body, traction control, or cruise control. However, the EPC light can indicate other problems with your Volkswagen, as well. Continue reading for how to fix the EPC light on a Volkswagen.
EPC Car Warning Light
When the EPC light comes on in your Volkswagen, it’s a signal that the vehicle needs to be repaired immediately. Your Volkswagen should have enough power to drive to a car dealership or repair shop, but it should not be driven anywhere else. Your vehicle’s throttle may be limited in power as a built-in mechanism to protect the engine.
How to Fix EPC Light on a VW
The EPC warning light can indicate a variety of problems with your vehicle, some of which can be extremely harmful to your engine. It’s important to get your Volkswagen into a repair shop as soon as possible if it’s displaying the EPC light.
Why do I hear water swoshing when my a\c is on but not when not when it is off? Also when on I hear a strange noise when I turn left but not when ot is off. What is this ? Changed out blower motor and resistor.
Could be the normal sounds of a properly functioning R134a air conditioning system. If this is an abnormal sound then you may need to do some investigating in order to narrow down the problem.
We changed the wheel hub assembly because we expected a low humming noise to be a bad wheel bearing. After changing it, we drove home about 30 miles. The noise was still there and by the time we got home it was louder than ever. And I was scared to drive over 15 mph. I jacked the tire up (passenger rear) and tire was wiggling as if it had a bad wheel bearing. The funny thing is the tire didn’t even wiggle before we changed the Hub assembly. So I am guessing maybe the cv shaft nut wasn’t tightened enough, I don’t know. And if it wasn’t tightened enough or came loose driving could it have damaged the wheel bearing in the hub assembly?
Does it sound like it wasn’t correctly tightened? Also, when I removed the tire and was wiggling the hub it wasn’t tight trying to rock it back and forth. But there was a little play when pushing and pulling it in and out.
Hub bearing noise
Sounds like you shouldn’t have driven it home. But instead circled the block and made the shop aware that the noise was still there. They may have been able to save the part and you some time. At this point you are going to need to take it back(30 miles). And I hope you got a good warranty because you are about to use it.
The shop that performed the repair will take a close look and be able to tell if the new part simply failed or if it was incorrectly installed. Either way, it should not be loose nor would it come loose on its own.
So I just got my first car, a 2008 Honda Accord Ex-l with 55k miles on it from an elderly couple. When I first bought it everything was fine. As I started to drive more and more I started having problems with the transmission.
First off, Its pretty hard to accelerate and when i do i feel the engine working hard to get up to around 2,500/3k rpm, then it gets smoother when it drops down to about 1,500rpm (is this normal?).
Car jerks a little forward
Another thing (my main concern) is that once I’m going anywhere from 30-60 mph and i take my foot off the gas and just let the car glide, as the rpm needle goes down and hits just below the 1k mark the needle jump up to around 1.5k and the car jerks a little forward. (when I’m going around 60-80, it might do this twice). What does this mean? Is that normal?
The last thing might be the same problem but I’m just gonna ask anyways.. Also when I’m breaking from most speeds, once the needle goes below the 1k mark the needle also jumps up (usually between the 500 and the 1k rpm mark).
Whats going on lol?
Ive already changed my break pads and rotors, changed my engine oil (not transmission), and got a fuel injector cleaner. (Not because of this problem, but they needed to be changed anyway.)
Also, whenever i turn my car on I always hear fluid dripping/gurgulling right behind the dashboard. What is causing that?
Thank you very much! Appreciate your service!
VSS? Check engine light?
Car jerking forward? Needle bouncing may all be related to what ever is going on. The needle bouncing isn’t much of a concern as long as the engine isn’t dying. The needle is moving around because the IAC (Idle Air Control) is doing its job.
The first place to start would be to have the check engine light codes scanned. Any present codes will assist in directing us toward the problem. This saves time and money. Also keeps us from trying to guess. Most any local auto parts stores will scan the codes for free. Post the codes below in the comments.
I have two codes, one for fuel tank pressure sensor and for oxygen sensor bank one. Ive replaced ftps and both oxygen sensors twice and still get the codes. could there be something else wrong that wont kick these codes out?
First I will need the two codes… post in the comments below.