My car was wrecked in front and driverside air bag in the steering wheel deployed. Now Honda is recalling air bags. Do you think they will still fix it? And cuz otherwise I am screwed they aint selling right now.
I do not have the ability to speak on behalf of Honda. Your best course of action would be to contact the Service department at your local dealership. You may ask for the best course of action for proceeding forward. Since the air bag in question actually did what it was designed to do, I do not see where any replacement would be warranted but that is just my opinion. Only Honda can make the final decision on the matter.
The latest air bag recall issued February 1, 2017 is 15-040 Version 5. All pilots from 2003 – 2008 are effected. This covers the inflator part.
The problem is with the inflator. In certain vehicles, the driver’s front airbag inflator could produce excessive internal pressure during airbag deployment. If the affected airbag deploys, the increased internal pressure may cause the inflator casing to rupture. Metal fragments could pass through the airbag cushion material, possibly causing injury or fatality to vehicle occupants.
I need to know how to test the intake valve timing control solenoid.
Intake Valve Timing Control ( IVTC)
The intake valve timing control (IVTC) solenoid is activated by on/off pulse duty signals from the ECM. The IVTC solenoid valve changes the amount of oil and direction of flow through IVTC unit or stops flow. The longer the pulse width the more valve angle advances. Shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When on and off pulse widths become equal, solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow, and intake valve angle is fixed at control position.
Intake Control Valve Control Solenoid Testing
Turn ignition off. Disconnect IVTC solenoid valve 2-pin connector. Turn ignition on. Measure the voltage between ground and IVTC solenoid valve harness connector terminal No. 1 (Red wire). If battery voltage does not exist, go to next step. If battery voltage exists, go to step 3.
Check the following:
Harness connectors E1 and M1.
Harness connectors M33 and F22.
Check Harness continuity between IVTC solenoid valve and ECM relay.
Repair harness or connectors.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM 116-pin harness connector. Check continuity of Orange/Black wire between Bank 1 IVTC solenoid valve harness connector terminal No. 2 and ECM harness connector terminal No.11, or Pink/Blue wire between Bank 2 IVTC solenoid valve harness terminal N0. 2 and ECM harness connector terminal No. 10. Also check circuit for short to ground and short to voltage. If problem is found, repair as necessary. After repair, repeat DTC confirmation test. If no problem is found, go to next step.
Measure resistance between IVTC solenoid valve terminal No. 1 and 2 (component side). Resistance should be 7.0 – 7.7 ohms at 68 degrees F. Check continuity between ground and IVTC solenoid valve terminal one at a time. Continuity should not exist. If resistance and continuity are as specified, go to next step. If resistance or continuity is not specified, replace IVTC solenoid valve and retest system. After repair, repeat DTC confirmation test.
No problem is indicated at this time. Problem may be intermittent.
Positive battery cables keep coming loose. I have a new dual post battery I would like to replace side post, can I separate the two positive cables, one one side post, one on top post, or do they have to remain in contact?
You may separate them. As long as they are both connected to the positive terminals there essentially still connected.
I have removed the intake manifold to be restored and have purchased a new intake manifold gasket (called a “valley pan”) it came with the valley pan and 2 fiber gaskets. The original gasket was only the metal valley pan with no fiber gaskets used. When I go to install the manifold do I include the fiber gaskets? Gasket set is a Felpro # 1215
Intake manifold gaskets and valley pan
I would think the extra gaskets are there in case you had to mill the head or intake. If it is all original you may want to just use the valley pan and some good sealant. Coat the cylinder block seal surfaces with oil resistant sealer. Install new seals and gasket.
I just pressed a new rear bearing and hub. Now my rotor wont go on. When I line up the holes with the lugs, it hits on one of the arms that the caliper mounts to.
Hub bearing installation problem
My first thought would be that the NEW hub is different from the old hub. Did you look at them side by side and make certain they matched? This should be done prier to installation. Was the NEW hub pressed in further than the old one? Is this the same rotor that was on the vehicle before? If so, it should fit just fine unless there is an issue with the NEW hub.
Rear Hub Bearing Replacement
Removal and Installation
CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.
1.Remove the wheel knuckle.
2.Remove the 3 brake disc shield bolts. •To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
3.Using the special tool and a suitable press, remove the wheel hub.
4.Remove the snap ring.
5.Using a suitable press and adapters, remove the wheel bearing.
6.To install, reverse the removal procedure.
7.Install the wheel knuckle.
My car has been stood for a couple of weeks and now I can’t move it. It feels like the breaks are stuck on. Could it be that the breaks have seized? If that is the problem what would I expect to pay for vehicle recovery and repair, obviously this would be a ball park figure.
Brakes are stuck on
It is possible that the brakes are seized. If it is just the park brake, you should be able to move the vehicle is reverse a bit easier. Or possibly rock it forward and backward a few times. The brakes shouldn’t be too seized in just a couple of weeks. If the engine revs when you put it in gear, then it may be a transmission issue instead.
Cost of recovery would depend on the company or individual that is towing the vehicle. And then at a worse case scenario for the brakes, it would include brake calipers, pads and rotors. Ball park $300 – $400(USD).
2002 PT Cruiser radiator problems. Overheating after just a few miles, never have seen a leak but have added a lot of antifreeze (like 2-3 gal). This is what I’ve done so far. Antifreeze , thermostat, cap -cuz seal was broken. Heat works sometimes, but it does overheat at about 3-4 miles. I’ve heard some scary sounds, but its rare. I’m a girl but do know cars…brakes, distributor caps, alternators, etc. But on cars newer then 1980’s fuel injection, don’t know to much.
Could it be water pump? Just not sure what to do. Also, front windows don’t work anymore, rear windows are fine and all the fuses are fine.
Thank you so much, any guidance would be great!
Since you are loosing anti-freeze that would be the first thing to figure out. You will need to pressure test the cooling system to determine if and where the leak is coming from. It can leak externally or internally. And also determine if the radiator cooling fan is coming on as it should.
That being said, it is important that the antifreeze that you added was 50/50 mix. If you add straight water or straight antifreeze it can and will overheat quickly. Therefore antifreeze and water mixed together offer a higher boiling point.
Pressure testing the cooling system
Top off cooling system. Acquire a cooling system pressure tester and connect it to the radiator in place of the cap. Pump up the pressure to around 15 psi and allow it to hold for 15 minutes. Look underneath and around the engine bay for signs of leaking coolant/antifreeze. If the pressure drops rapidly then you know there is a large leak and should be fairly easy to locate. In addition, a slow drop may be more difficult to locate the leak. Placing a clean piece of cardboard under the car may assist in locating the leak.
Internal coolant leak
If you see the pressure drop quickly on the pressure tester without any signs of external leaking you are left with and internal leak. Internal leaks generally cause a noticeable performance issue such as an engine misfire. Finally you may also see the check engine light come on.
Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the radiator cap. On the next engine heat up cycle, the air is pushed past the radiator cap into the coolant recovery bottle by thermal expansion of the coolant. The air then escapes to the atmosphere in the coolant recovery bottle and is replaced with coolant on cool down. To effectively deaerate the system, multiple thermal cycles of the system may be required. Deaeration does not occur at engine idle. Higher than engine idle speeds are required. Normal driving will deaerate the cooling system.
Coolant flows through the engine water jackets and cylinder heads absorbing heat produced by the engine during operation. The coolant carries heat to the radiator and heater core. Here it is transferred to ambient air passing through the radiator and heater core fins.
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle operating conditions. The recommended mixture of 50/50 ethylene-glycol and water will provide protection against freezing to -37 deg. C (-35 deg. F). The antifreeze concentration must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7 deg. C (-90 deg. F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because the specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
100 Percent Ethylene-Glycol—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause formation of additive deposits in the system, as the corrosion inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as insulation, causing temperatures to rise to as high as 149 deg. C (300 deg. F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22 deg. C (-8 deg. F ).
Propylene-glycol Formulations—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Propylene-glycol formulations do not meet Chrysler coolant specifications.It’s overall effective temperature range is smaller than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50 propylene-glycol and water is -32 deg. C (-26 deg. F). 5 deg. C higher than ethylene-glycol’s freeze point. The boiling point (protection against summer boil-over) of propylene-glycol is 125 deg. C (257 deg. F ) at 96.5 kPa (14 psi), compared to 128 deg. C (263 deg. F) for ethylene-glycol. Use of propylene-glycol can result in boil-over or freeze-up in Chrysler vehicles, which are designed for ethylene-glycol. Propylene glycol also has poorer heat transfer characteristics than ethylene glycol. This can increase cylinder head temperatures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/Ethylene-glycol Mixtures—Should Not Be Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibitors, causing damage to the various cooling system components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propylene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle, conventional methods of determining freeze point will not be accurate. Both the refractive index and specific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. Caution:
Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be measured with normal field equipment and can cause problems associated with 100 percent ethylene-glycol.