Oct 052017

2007 Dodge Charger R/T

Was driving home and car started to get hot. I stopped the car and the temp gauge went all the way to C. So I started it up and engine  sounded great, temp gauge stayed on C. I had two stop signs and then I slowed down to turn in my drive and it died. At that point the tank was hot so I pushed it in driveway. This morning went to start it and it had a loud noise clanking in the front and won’t stay running. I’m thinking timing chain because it was OK when it died. Unsure.

Sounds about right. I would remove the serpentine belt and start it up again to make sure it is an internal noise before digging into the timing chain.

Oct 042017

2004 Chrysler Concorde

2004 Chrysler Concorde 2.7 recently developed code p0700 a general tranny code and p1779 solenoid switch in the l/r position. Did some looking and found a bare wire on either the speed input sensor or output sensor. Not sure what on. I fixed the problem and now the cruise control works as well. Could that have caused the tranny codes?


Chrysler Code P0700

Transmission Control System (Malfunction Indicator Lamp Request)

 Code P0700 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  3. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  4. Transmission system malfunction

Generic Code P1779

Engine Torque Delivered to TCM Signal

Code P1779 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
Oct 032017

2011 Hyundai Tuscon

CBD II codes: P0302, P0170, and P2006 Can the engine problems be resolved by using a fuel additive/cleaner and replacing the fuel filter?

I would have to say NO. You may review the code information and see it is going to take a bit more than a filter and fuel change.

Hyundai Code P2006

Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1

Code P2006 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

Hyundai Code P0170

Fuel Trim (Bank 1)

Code P0170 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  3. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  4. Fuel pressure – Pump, regulator, filter or lines

Hyundai Code P0302

Cylinder 2 Engine Misfire Detected

Code P0320 Probable Causes

  1. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  2. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  3. Fuel injector(s) faulty
  4. Ignition system – Ignition module, coil, spark plugs and wires
  5. Fuel system
Oct 032017

Hyundai Sonata

I can’t get any pressure on the low side on a/c but hi side has pressure.

No pressure on low side

This is an indication of a restriction.

clogged orifice tube gauge reading

On a fully charged system, insufficient low-side pressure is normally the result of a restriction. A clogged orifice tube is a common cause of such problems. The high-side pressure may be elevated as the compressor attempts to force the refrigerant past the obstruction. This will quickly starve oil flow to the compressor and cause a catastrophic failure.

Source: agcauto.com

Oct 022017

2005 Mercury Montego

First I am not sure, if its a CVT or traditional automatic transmission ? I am pretty much suspecting its the traditional one. It has tiny yellow plastic dipstick between transmission & radiator, more easily accessible from underneath the car.
Second, any guide on dropping the pan & replacing/servicing the transmission filter. I see its not horizontal, it vertically lying between transmission & radiator.

It is a CVT – Continuously Variable Transmission. Here is the procedure for replacing the transmission fluid and filter.

Transmission fluid and filter change


2003 Saturn Ion

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Oct 022017

2003 Saturn Ion

Overfilled transmission

This goes out to any “True Mechanic Worth His Work” My name is Regina. I’ve always learned about cars from Daddy growing up being his “Little Grease Monkey” so I am basically a learning shade tree mechanic.  My fiance’s car that he purchased had transmission problems front seal leaking, filter clogged and overfilled transmission fluid. Solenoid overheating. I replaced the seal changed the filter that was clogged and noticed that the bands that would shift it from 2nd to 3rd were kinda stretched. I told him to baby it and shift smoothly and slowly until I could get it in to someone that has more experience than my own shade tree mechanic skills.

It was running smoothly

It was running smoothly as long as he didn’t rough drive it. Three weeks after this he said he came home and ran over a pretty big hole about 1/2 mile from home but noticed it still was in alignment and drove fine the rest of the way. The following morning on way to work the engine wouldn’t rev up to shift properly and he had to put the pedal half way down and when it shifted it was like being on a motorcycle at a stop sign and trying to start off in 2nd shift. By the time he made it home it was more like 3rd. He said once he got going in 3rd it seemed okay but would lose power easliy and especially on incline.

Does ANYONE think it’s the bands and how cheaply could I get it going just for another month until I can afford to have it fixed or junked and get another one as it’s my source of transportation as well other than my bike ??? Please help a desperate girl elbows deep in Grease and living  paycheck to paycheck Thank you guys so much.

With the engine unable to rev at least you know the transmission was not slipping. If the transmission isn’t shifting it could be related to the VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. The best first approach would be to connect a scan tool and review the codes(transmission codes) to see if and what has been flagged.

Oct 022017

2002 Ford F250

Hi, I have a 2002 f250 V10 crew cab. When I go over rough road the front end can pull and move me over in the lane. The front end has been checked and new shocks installed but it still does it and when I Hit freeway bumps it hits real hard. If I install air bags in the coil springs will it help the ride and steering?

Air bags are not going to help the ride or the steering. It would make the ride stiffer. I would have the tires and alignment checked. Also check for a loose steering gear box. If your tires are oversized (not stock size) this may also cause the vehicle to want to shoot to one side of the road or the other.

Oct 022017

1992 Ford F150

Fuel pump will not prime

If your truck utilizes a mechanical fuel pump follow the testing procedure listed below. These trucks (1990 – 1996) employ a single, high pressure pump which is part of the modular, In-Tank Reservoir (ITR) assembly. Besides the pump, the ITR consists of a venturi jet pump, a supply check valve and a shuttle selector valve. All this is mounted on the fuel gauge sender flange. The sending unit is separate from the ITR module.

When the fuel system is opened allowing the pressure to bleed off will require the system to be primed once reassembled. This can be achieved by cycling the ignition switch on and off. The ignition key needs to be moved to the “ON” position for 5 seconds and then moved to “OFF” for 5 seconds. This needs to be repeated a minimum of 10 times. If fuel pressure has not built up, check for fuel leaks first. Then test your fuel pump relay function. Next test your fuel pump.


fuel pump diagram 1992 Ford F150

Mechanical Fuel Pump Testing

Never smoke when working around gasoline! Avoid all sources of sparks or ignition. Gasoline vapors are EXTREMELY volatile!

Incorrect fuel pump pressure and low volume (flow rate) are the two most likely fuel pump troubles that will affect engine performance. Low pressure will cause a lean mixture and fuel starvation at high speeds and excessive pressure will cause high fuel consumption and carburetor flooding.

To determine that the fuel pump is in satisfactory operating condition, tests for both fuel pump pressure and volume should be performed.

The test are performed with the fuel pump installed on the engine and the engine at normal operating temperature and at idle speed.

Before the test, make sure that the replaceable fuel filter has been changed at the proper mileage interval. If in doubt, install a new filter.

Pressure Test

  1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the fuel inlet line of the fuel filter at the carburetor. Use care to prevent fire, due to fuel spillage. Place an absorbent cloth under the connection before removing the line to catch any fuel that might flow out of the line.
  2. Connect a pressure gauge, a restrictor and a flexible hose between the fuel filter and the carburetor.
  3. Position the flexible hose and the restrictor so that the fuel can be discharged into a suitable, graduated container.
  4. Before taking a pressure reading, operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and vent the system into the container by opening the hose restrictor momentarily.
  5. Close the hose restrictor, allow the pressure to stabilize and note the reading. The pressure should be 5 psi. (34.5 kPa).
    If the pump pressure is not within 4–6 psi (27.6–41.4 kPa) and the fuel lines and filter are in satisfactory condition, the pump is defective and should be replaced.

If the pump pressure is within the proper range, perform the test for fuel volume.

Volume Test

  1. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm.
  2. Open the hose restrictor and catch the fuel in the container while observing the time it takes to pump 1 pint. 1 pint should be pumped in 20 seconds. If the pump does not pump to specifications, check for proper fuel tank venting or a restriction in the fuel line leading from the fuel tank to the carburetor before replacing the fuel pump.

2005 Honda Element Engine Code P0135

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Sep 292017

2005 Honda Element

What problems might have caused this code?  How can I correct it?  Engine code is P0135

Honda Code P0135

Description: Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

Code P0135 Probable Causes

  1. Oxygen Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Open fuse

What does Code P0135 mean?

The code means that there is a problem with the heater element circuit of the heated oxygen sensor. The control module monitors how long it take the sensor to warm up and start sending an adequate signal. The code is triggered when the sensor is taking too long to warm up. Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can caused the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow. Before replacing the sensor, check for the condition of the heated oxygen sensor fuse and connectors. If the sensor and connector are OK, replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem.


Sep 282017

2005 Pontiac Vibe

Stopped running at all

I’m pretty much looking for some information on this transmission problem, before I set it on FIRE.
I recently bought an ’05 Pontiac Vibe for almost nothing ($500.00) now I know why. The previous owner stated that the original transmission had went bad (now I know there was a recall at one time) some time back and had a used one put in afterwards. Knowing that the same transmission is in both Pontiac and Toyota, I figured it couldn’t be too bad. I’ve always had good results from Toyota’s. So, with every car that I have bought, I give it routine maintenance; coolant flush, oil change, etc. On this particular vehicle after having the transmission flush and refilled along with new filter, 24 hours afterwards it started knocking like the flywheel was loose something horrible and then stopped running at all, NOTHING, just the sound of destruction. I inspected the flywheel and all bolts are intact and it torque convertor looks Ok from what I can see. Pretty much my question is to you is…Why would flushing the system cause that and what could possible be my problem? Is a new transmission in my future? Please help it Scotty before it BURNS!!!

The vehicle stopped running wouldn’t have much to do with the transmission. If it just quit moving then I would check to make sure the cv shafts are still intact. They can break and cause the vehicle to no longer move. This would also cause a horrible racket. I wouldn’t think this would have anything to do with changing fluids though.