thinking of putting a sr20det into my e36, how hard will this be?
It will be quite difficult and require some master skills. You will need to be able to fabricate and weld in new mounts and exhaust system. You will need to move all wiring and computer system which may require rerouting and lengthening of the wiring harnesses. Relocation of air intake system. Not to mention hood clearance. Could be a fun project though.
The SR20DET is part of the SR family of engines from Nissan. It is a popular inline four cylinder engine fitted into a variety of cars, generally the Nissan Silvia and 180SX. It also came in the Pulsar GTI-R and the Nissan Bluebird. This engine replaced the CA18DE and CA18DET that originally powered the Silvia and 180SX.
When you look at the back of the car, the right tailpipe looks much more carbonated(black) than the left side. Also when I first start the car it makes a very slight clinking noise that only lasts for about half a second. Than smoke comes out of the right tailpipe and not out of the left one. The idling is not smooth at that point and something just doesn’t feel right.
Sounds like you have an engine performance issue for sure. When is the last time you had a tune up? If the check engine light is on that means a code is stored that will help diagnose the engine related issue.
My BMW is stalling when I accelerate, especially noticeable when trying to enter the highway. The engine shuts off and I have to pull over. Once I turn the car on and off, it restarts immediately. I have replaced the spark plugs, the oxygen sensors, the air intake boot, and checked the fuel pump. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
The first course of action should be to pull any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the engines computer. This will require a scan tool. If you do not have one, most any auto parts stores will do this for free. Once you have the codes post them below for further information on taking care of the codes.
Sounds like a sensor failing but there is no sense in guessing if we can get a code to help guide us.
I have a 2010 BMW 328i 2 door coup with around 95,000 miles.. about a week ago the coolant light came on and then a couple days later my car started stalling a little bit nearly every time I would accelerate and get right around 40 mps. it doesn’t make any noise or anything, but it just feels like it doesn’t want to go and kind of feels jerky or jumpy for a few seconds. I don’t know if there is any correlation between the coolant light and this happening or not, but I’d greatly appreciate any help I can get (I don’t know the first thing about stuff like this and i don’t currently have a mechanic I necessarily trust either).
If the coolant light came on, it should be important to you to check the coolant level. If the coolant level is extremely low, severe engine damage may occur.
If the coolant level is low there is most likely a leak somewhere in the cooling system. The leak should be repaired as soon as possible. In the meantime keep the coolant level topped off even if you have to check the level daily. This will help keep from causing additional damage.
Now as far as the stalling, it may be related. If the coolant level is low the temperature sensor will not read correctly as there is no coolant coming in contact with it. This may cause the engines computer to function in an odd way. Also, if you drove the car and it overheated, damage may have already taken place. The most common damage caused by overheating would be a blown head gasket.
For now lets hope the engine was not overheated. Start with checking the coolant level and topping it off. Then drive the car and see how it functions. Of course if the check engine light is on, you will want to pull the codes and see what hey are. Post any codes found below in the comments.
A Common Code for this issue would be:
BMW Code P2559 – Engine Coolant Level Sensor/Switch Circuit High
Sensor or solenoid faulty
Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
Cooling system – Check low coolant level, thermostat or radiator fan
My car keeps having abs issues, the handbrake abs and DTC dashboard lights come on. I have on some occasions lost speedometer also, everything clears when I turn car off and start again. I have replaced the speed/abs sensor and it stopped for a while but is now back with vengeance, every drive it comes on, if I leave the DTC control on, after a while of driving it starts to jolt and if I attempt to accelerate it dies and I can’t pick up speed again. If I hold the DTC button for a few seconds and then drive I never have the jolting issue, just over time all 3 lights come on again. It broke down on me and it wouldn’t let me accelerate past 20 like it was in limp mode but was no dashboard lights for this present. After 3 hours of recovery not turning up I had enough and tried my car and it was fine all the way home (50 miles). Now my question I’ve read the wheel bearing has a magnetic strip one side and that is what the abs sensor reads, could mine have perished and once warmed up start to stick so it would appear the wheel isn’t moving and throw all these faults at me? I have a diagnostic tool and all faults point at rear left abs sensor.
Sounds like the Diagnostic Scantool is pointing you in the right direction. Each time the car is started it runs a check to see if everything in the abs system is functional. If at anytime one of the sensors fails it will illuminate the lights and discontinue to function properly. If you let me know what the year of the vehicle is I may be able to find some common failure issues.
My ex took her BMW to a local mechanic for a alternator replacement. She also had the BMW battery replacement done. They took care of the alternator and battery replacement, but now the window doesn’t go up or down, the dash board lights are not lit, the auto rear view mirrors don’t work, and the turn signals don’t operate. I don’t know much about BMW, but I know from what I’ve read on forums, it’s might have to do with reprogramming. She brought back to the mechanic and he seem defensive when I asked him about registering the battery. He was screaming and said that the vehicle has a lot of miles and that he would have to look at it further. Which to me doesn’t sound like he knows what his talking about. Perhaps someone can help me cause I am at my limit with this.
BMW battery replacement does ask for registering to prolong the life of the battery. However, if the new battery is not “registered” the car will run and the battery will charge. This would have no impact on the windows or lights. I would look for a blown fuse or two.
The car was brought to the mechanic shop not running at all (I assume). Installed a new battery and alternator. Car runs and they return it to the customer. The mechanic was not asked or paid(I assume) to look at the window or turn signal operation.
If these items were functioning fine before the BMW battery replacement was needed, there is the possibility of a fuse being blown or something around the same time. Especially if anyone tried to jump start the car.
Since the BMW battery replacement was performed it is the right thing to return to the mechanic shop with your concerns. I can say polite manners go a long way on both sides of the counter.
BMW Battery Replacement registration
Most all of today’s BMW models have adaptive charging and power management systems. Part of this management is monitoring the battery’s capacity and its charge and discharge profiles. When a battery is changed, the power management system needs to be run through a diagnostic cycle in order to properly recognize (register) the different battery and the different capacity, charge and discharge profiles.
If the new battery is not “registered” the vehicle will run and the battery will charge. However, in the long run, the life of the battery will likely be compromised due to improper charging parameters. There are no DIY tools available for your to perform the registering yourself. You will need to see a BMW dealer or an independent shop that has the proper tools to diagnose and program the late model BMWs.
How to Register a BMW Battery
The electrical system in a BMW car is complex. BMW set things so that you will have to take your car to the BMW dealership if you need to replace the battery; the new battery must be “registered” with the car’s computer or it will have a shortened life span, not power your car properly and not receive proper charging from your car’s electrical system. Registering the battery is the phrase used to describe resetting the car’s computer so it will accept the new battery and work properly with it. Like I said above, you can skip registration but may expect a shorter battery life.
Question 1) My Car wont seem to turn over! I can hear a faint clicking sound (1 time each time I try) and all the power stuff works ie; windows, wipers,lights,etc.) but it still wont turn over….
due to it not turning over this takes me to…..
Question 2) When my car is shifted into neutral and the E-Brake is off I am able to push the car forward or wherever it is I need to move it! as soon as I try putting it into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. and pushing the clutch pedal all the way down it does not want to move