thinking of putting a sr20det into my e36, how hard will this be?
RESPONSE
It will be quite difficult and require some master skills. You will need to be able to fabricate and weld in new mounts and exhaust system. You will need to move all wiring and computer system which may require rerouting and lengthening of the wiring harnesses. Relocation of air intake system. Not to mention hood clearance. Could be a fun project though.
Nissan SR20DET
The SR20DET is part of the SR family of engines from Nissan. It is a popular inline four cylinder engine fitted into a variety of cars, generally the Nissan Silvia and 180SX. It also came in the Pulsar GTI-R and the Nissan Bluebird. This engine replaced the CA18DE and CA18DET that originally powered the Silvia and 180SX.
Source: en.wikipedia
When you look at the back of the car, the right tailpipe looks much more carbonated(black) than the left side. Also when I first start the car it makes a very slight clinking noise that only lasts for about half a second. Than smoke comes out of the right tailpipe and not out of the left one. The idling is not smooth at that point and something just doesn’t feel right.
My BMW is stalling when I accelerate, especially noticeable when trying to enter the highway. The engine shuts off and I have to pull over. Once I turn the car on and off, it restarts immediately. I have replaced the spark plugs, the oxygen sensors, the air intake boot, and checked the fuel pump. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
I have a 2010 BMW 328i 2 door coup with around 95,000 miles.. about a week ago the coolant light came on and then a couple days later my car started stalling a little bit nearly every time I would accelerate and get right around 40 mps. it doesn’t make any noise or anything, but it just feels like it doesn’t want to go and kind of feels jerky or jumpy for a few seconds. I don’t know if there is any correlation between the coolant light and this happening or not, but I’d greatly appreciate any help I can get (I don’t know the first thing about stuff like this and i don’t currently have a mechanic I necessarily trust either).
My car keeps having abs issues, the handbrake abs and DTC dashboard lights come on. I have on some occasions lost speedometer also, everything clears when I turn car off and start again. I have replaced the speed/abs sensor and it stopped for a while but is now back with vengeance, every drive it comes on, if I leave the DTC control on, after a while of driving it starts to jolt and if I attempt to accelerate it dies and I can’t pick up speed again. If I hold the DTC button for a few seconds and then drive I never have the jolting issue, just over time all 3 lights come on again. It broke down on me and it wouldn’t let me accelerate past 20 like it was in limp mode but was no dashboard lights for this present. After 3 hours of recovery not turning up I had enough and tried my car and it was fine all the way home (50 miles). Now my question I’ve read the wheel bearing has a magnetic strip one side and that is what the abs sensor reads, could mine have perished and once warmed up start to stick so it would appear the wheel isn’t moving and throw all these faults at me? I have a diagnostic tool and all faults point at rear left abs sensor.
