Tried to remove vanos by the book, but helical gear will not disengage from intake cam. Any ideas on why it might be stuck or how to get it off?
In general when something made of metal is stuck or stubborn the use of concentrated heat will remedy the issue at hand. Sometimes an impact or smack with a hammer will also do the trick. A large rubber mallet is the preferred tool.
Hello, instead of connecting the positive terminal of the battery to the starter motor, I connected it to ground. At first I did not see any spark because the ground terminal was disconnected. But when i approached the ground wire to the battery negative terminal a spark appeared. After fixing my mistake, the fuel pump does not stop when the key is turned to “start” position and there is no crank.
What is the most common fault that it is expected to have from my mistake? Fried ECU? Fried starter? Bad ground connection? Thank you
Double check your connections and then make sure the battery is fully charged. Check the related fuses and relays. Sounds like the fuel pump relay is stuck on. I don’t think you harmed the starter. If you hurt anything it would be the battery.
Timing chain was replaced last year and now have an oil leak from the main seal on the engine. Is this oil leak caused by the timing chain replacement?
I would not think changing the timing chain would have anything to do with an oil leak of any kind a year later. A year is a long time and most shops only have a 6 month warranty. Now if the the seal was replaced and is still under warranty then that would be another issue altogether.
This issue im going to describe is VERY dileberate when it happens….at speeds over 30mph the car will almost seem to glide right with a feel of floating almost like the ass end is riding high and all the suspension has been released its almost is like a hinge feeling i feel like it has to be something with the gyroscope or stability control or something the action is way to dramatic than that of bad busings or falied sway bar, is it not? 110,000k original suspension parts the rest of the vehical has been taken care of at every turn by BMW Seattle and just went out of full warrenty
Without looking at it my thoughts would be alignment or tire issue. A busted belt may not be clearly visible but would cause this issue. A quick affordable test would be to rotate both front tires to the back and move the back tires to the front. Then test drive and see if any difference can be noticed.
Dynamic Stability Control
The Brakes Electronic Stability Control uses two steering wheel angle sensors and wheel speed sensors to control braking. I do not think that would cause the issue you are having.
On slippery surfaces or during aggressive maneuvers, if the vehicle understeers severely, the computer will actuate the brakes on the inside rear wheel, just hard enough and just long enough to correct the steering behavior. When the vehicle oversteers severely, the system will brake the outside front wheel instead.
NOTE* When Servicing this system, OEM may require the angle sensors be calibrated to the vehicle thrustline.
Our car will sometimes shake/make a grinding or vibrating sound when started (maybe 2 times per week?). We will start the engine in the morning. And while it is still in park, it will slowly begin to make the sound and vibrate the car. Once put in drive, the shaking / sounds stop. It will begin again when stopping at stop signs or idling at red lights, and stop when the car is put into park.
After being driven a few miles (10 or so) the car no longer shakes or makes the noise when stopped or idling. And there are no issues the rest of the day.
Any idea why this issue would happen so sparingly?
The car has received regular oil changes (though there is a small leak that we noticed the other day) and just had the brake fluid flushed.
Thank you to all who know what this issue is / how much it could cost to fix!!
My first thought would be a misfire. This may be caused by a leaking fuel injector on a particular cylinder. In the morning when you first start it up the cylinder is flooded. And once the engine has time to warm up and clear out you no longer experience the issue until it has time to sit. Once sitting for the evening the fuel injector allows the fuel to once again leak in the cylinder. And flooding it causing a fouled plug/misfire issue.
Of course if the check engine light is on have the codes pulled and post them.
I delivered my vehicle (41,000 km) to the dealership to replace the rear wheel bearings. After 3 days they advised that the right rear output shaft needs to be replaced…no explanation of how it was damaged. Is it possible this was damaged during the wheel bearing replacement?
Anything is possible. You should be able to go to the dealership and request that they show you the part that needs to be replaced. Ask them to explain what is wrong with it. Then ask what would happen if you didn’t replace it. Finally make your decision on whether or not to have it replaced.
I have a 2006 BMW E90 330i and I have an issue with HVAC. My car is not blowing any heat or air conditioning either. My blower is working fine and all the speeds work. I have checked all the fuses and they are okay. Recently replaced a battery and had to reprogram the battery and the steering angle sensor. I can not seem to figure it out why no cold or hot air. In addition all the LED light on the HVAC control panel look fine and are all green. I just recharged the Air conditioning and its holding pressure. It is recharged consequently . I have dismantled the dash near the blower to see if any control airs were dislodged and everything looks okay. I’m looking for additional help.
Two things come to mind.
The blower motor is hooked up backwards which would cause the motor to function in all speeds but not blow out the vents.
A vent door or mode door actuator(flap motor) has failed. Or part of the ventilation system is clogged or disconnected.
Your vehicle has 8 Actuators(flap motors) that are controlled by the HVAC control module. It seems like if the blower is blowing that air would be coming out from somewhere. Therefore if no cold or hot air is coming out and everything checks out, then I would conclude the Fresh Air/Recirculation Actuator has failed. In conclusion this would mean only the outside air would be blowing into the car. And failed actuator are the most common cause.