I delivered my vehicle (41,000 km) to the dealership to replace the rear wheel bearings. After 3 days they advised that the right rear output shaft needs to be replaced…no explanation of how it was damaged. Is it possible this was damaged during the wheel bearing replacement?
Anything is possible. You should be able to go to the dealership and request that they show you the part that needs to be replaced. Ask them to explain what is wrong with it. Then ask what would happen if you didn’t replace it. Finally make your decision on whether or not to have it replaced.
I have a 2006 BMW E90 330i and I have an issue with HVAC. My car is not blowing any heat or air conditioning either. My blower is working fine and all the speeds work. I have checked all the fuses and they are okay. Recently replaced a battery and had to reprogram the battery and the steering angle sensor. I can not seem to figure it out why no cold or hot air. In addition all the LED light on the HVAC control panel look fine and are all green. I just recharged the Air conditioning and its holding pressure. It is recharged consequently . I have dismantled the dash near the blower to see if any control airs were dislodged and everything looks okay. I’m looking for additional help.
Two things come to mind.
The blower motor is hooked up backwards which would cause the motor to function in all speeds but not blow out the vents.
A vent door or mode door actuator(flap motor) has failed. Or part of the ventilation system is clogged or disconnected.
Your vehicle has 8 Actuators(flap motors) that are controlled by the HVAC control module. It seems like if the blower is blowing that air would be coming out from somewhere. Therefore if no cold or hot air is coming out and everything checks out, then I would conclude the Fresh Air/Recirculation Actuator has failed. In conclusion this would mean only the outside air would be blowing into the car. And failed actuator are the most common cause.
thinking of putting a sr20det into my e36, how hard will this be?
It will be quite difficult and require some master skills. You will need to be able to fabricate and weld in new mounts and exhaust system. You will need to move all wiring and computer system which may require rerouting and lengthening of the wiring harnesses. Relocation of air intake system. Not to mention hood clearance. Could be a fun project though.
The SR20DET is part of the SR family of engines from Nissan. It is a popular inline four cylinder engine fitted into a variety of cars, generally the Nissan Silvia and 180SX. It also came in the Pulsar GTI-R and the Nissan Bluebird. This engine replaced the CA18DE and CA18DET that originally powered the Silvia and 180SX.
When you look at the back of the car, the right tailpipe looks much more carbonated(black) than the left side. Also when I first start the car it makes a very slight clinking noise that only lasts for about half a second. Than smoke comes out of the right tailpipe and not out of the left one. The idling is not smooth at that point and something just doesn’t feel right.
Sounds like you have an engine performance issue for sure. When is the last time you had a tune up? If the check engine light is on that means a code is stored that will help diagnose the engine related issue.
My BMW is stalling when I accelerate, especially noticeable when trying to enter the highway. The engine shuts off and I have to pull over. Once I turn the car on and off, it restarts immediately. I have replaced the spark plugs, the oxygen sensors, the air intake boot, and checked the fuel pump. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
The first course of action should be to pull any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the engines computer. This will require a scan tool. If you do not have one, most any auto parts stores will do this for free. Once you have the codes post them below for further information on taking care of the codes.
Sounds like a sensor failing but there is no sense in guessing if we can get a code to help guide us.
I have a 2010 BMW 328i 2 door coup with around 95,000 miles.. about a week ago the coolant light came on and then a couple days later my car started stalling a little bit nearly every time I would accelerate and get right around 40 mps. it doesn’t make any noise or anything, but it just feels like it doesn’t want to go and kind of feels jerky or jumpy for a few seconds. I don’t know if there is any correlation between the coolant light and this happening or not, but I’d greatly appreciate any help I can get (I don’t know the first thing about stuff like this and i don’t currently have a mechanic I necessarily trust either).
If the coolant light came on, it should be important to you to check the coolant level. If the coolant level is extremely low, severe engine damage may occur.
If the coolant level is low there is most likely a leak somewhere in the cooling system. The leak should be repaired as soon as possible. In the meantime keep the coolant level topped off even if you have to check the level daily. This will help keep from causing additional damage.
Now as far as the stalling, it may be related. If the coolant level is low the temperature sensor will not read correctly as there is no coolant coming in contact with it. This may cause the engines computer to function in an odd way. Also, if you drove the car and it overheated, damage may have already taken place. The most common damage caused by overheating would be a blown head gasket.
For now lets hope the engine was not overheated. Start with checking the coolant level and topping it off. Then drive the car and see how it functions. Of course if the check engine light is on, you will want to pull the codes and see what hey are. Post any codes found below in the comments.
A Common Code for this issue would be:
BMW Code P2559 – Engine Coolant Level Sensor/Switch Circuit High
Sensor or solenoid faulty
Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
Cooling system – Check low coolant level, thermostat or radiator fan
My car keeps having abs issues, the handbrake abs and DTC dashboard lights come on. I have on some occasions lost speedometer also, everything clears when I turn car off and start again. I have replaced the speed/abs sensor and it stopped for a while but is now back with vengeance, every drive it comes on, if I leave the DTC control on, after a while of driving it starts to jolt and if I attempt to accelerate it dies and I can’t pick up speed again. If I hold the DTC button for a few seconds and then drive I never have the jolting issue, just over time all 3 lights come on again. It broke down on me and it wouldn’t let me accelerate past 20 like it was in limp mode but was no dashboard lights for this present. After 3 hours of recovery not turning up I had enough and tried my car and it was fine all the way home (50 miles). Now my question I’ve read the wheel bearing has a magnetic strip one side and that is what the abs sensor reads, could mine have perished and once warmed up start to stick so it would appear the wheel isn’t moving and throw all these faults at me? I have a diagnostic tool and all faults point at rear left abs sensor.
Sounds like the Diagnostic Scantool is pointing you in the right direction. Each time the car is started it runs a check to see if everything in the abs system is functional. If at anytime one of the sensors fails it will illuminate the lights and discontinue to function properly. If you let me know what the year of the vehicle is I may be able to find some common failure issues.