it have 2 coolant temperature sensor locadeted in the thermosat housing one with a plug and with 2 wires white and brown, the sensor has a purple top,,should that one show some type of resistance when checking with ohms meter
I have a 2005 reg BMW 320d completed 133000 miles 6 speed manual gear box. I have already changed the clutch and the flywheel a year ago and still under warranty. I recently started having problem in putting the car to 1st gear in the morning and sometimes the 1st gear gets stiff and hard to come out as well. No issues with any other gears selecting. When the car is warm there are no issues in selecting the gears. And also I have tried when the engine is off and have no problem in selecting any gears.
Can you please advice what will be the problem as the dealer is saying its the gear box and i have spoken to one of the engineering company have deals with the reconditioning the gearboxes they said nothing wrong with the gear box its the clutch.
Hi , i am wondering if you can advise me. I have a e70 x5 3.0 Diesel. I upgraded rims exactly 1 year ago to 20″ staggered Vossen rims . Yesterday the Diff broke and i am in the process of trying to source a new diff .
My mechanic is suggesting that the cause of the diff (rear axle drive) failure is the wider Rims and tyres that i had put on. I am not sure since i see the sport package came with those same sized rims and tyress i used.
Do you agree that the wider rims and tyres caused the diff (rear axle drive) to fail ? I am worried as i dont want the same to happen again.
I will admit that since i upgraded , i normally get the traction light blinking at time when the road is slightly uneven when accelerating.
If you can advise me i will be very thankful.
ac doesn’t work old ac/heater control was missing button so bought a new one replaced and it doesnt turn on the compressor any suggestions?
replaced brake switch, bulbs were fine and so was the fuse brake lights still dont work any suggestions?
Hi all, I am new to all these forums and such like, and to my new BMW car, so I have a lot to learn, and this is my first ever posting.
The valve stem rubber seals on this car need replacing, what I need to know is do I have to remove the head , or can I use the compressed air method, or rope trick to hold up the valves .?
Would using these ‘s methods cause me a problem with timing ?,
Other’s have said that by using the compressed air method or rope trick that the timing is not effected, but would be effected if the head had to be removed…however!…nobody I know has worked on this bmw n42 engine , therefore I am hoping that some of you guys might have , and can offer me much appreciated advice.
Can I fit a 1990 BMW 735i rear bumper on a 1992 BMW 735i?
I have a 2003 BMW Z4 3.5i (E85). This is my 3rd winter with the car, and it has about 72K miles on it now (only had 14.5K miles when I got it). I have never had any problem with the car yet. Today it is 0°F/-17°C in Chicago.
I went out to my car and started it this morning to let it warm up for about 10 minutes while I got a few things together for work (I don’t normally warm it up).
When I came back and got in the car the interior temperature okay, and the heat blowing on high setting was only medium-warm.
The coolant temperature gauge needle was pinned to the right (red hot zone) and the red warning light was flashing, so I immediately shut off the car. The radiator cap never blew off and there was no coolant anywhere on the ground.
Do you think I have a defective sensor, a bad thermostat, or a dead fan?
I wanted to check under the hood but it was frozen shut.
When my check engine light comes on the car stops shifting and hardly moves. If I clear the check engine code I can drive for 50 miles until the light comes back and I start having these problems.
My BMW has a ping noise when I drive and change gears, and it feel like it the car is holding back on the power which is not the way that it use to be when I drove it previously. I am not sure what the cause could be but it has started doing this all of a sudden.